I have reloaded on a single stage rockchucker for about 20 years. 243, 708, 308, 7 STW, 7mag, 300mag, 25 06, 38 sp, 357, 45 ACP, 17 rem, 17M4 and a few others. It's time to move up to something faster. I read numerous SEARCHES on Turrets and Progressives.
What are the Pros/cons of each. And is their a tipping point when one clearly is advantagous over the other. The pistol stuff especially 45 acp consumes most of my time. I shoot about 100 rounds per week of 45 and about 30 rounds week with 38 sp.
The rifle stuff is all low volume less than 100 rounds per year each, with the exception of the 17 rem and 17M4 both are around 300-400 per year each.
Why would I want a turret?
Why would I want a Progressive?
My budget for this is around$300-500 for a new set up less is fine if it fits my needs.
Thanks for the comments.
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August 31, 2007, 11:49 PM
If I could do it again, I would get a Redding T-7 instead of a progressive. but I shoot mostly rifle. If I was shooting pistol it would progressive all the way. So get a progressive and keep the single stage for your rifle.
September 1, 2007, 12:19 AM
The rifle stuff is all low volume less than 100 rounds per year each, with the exception of the 17 rem and 17M4 both are around 300-400 per year each.
With that low of a volume I would go with a turret. The Lee Classic Turret will let you make close to 200 rounds per hour and you can buy one complete for under $200. I own a Classic Turret and wouldn't buy a progressive unless I was shooting 1,000 rounds a week or more.
September 1, 2007, 01:16 AM
If I had to reload pistol ammo on a single stage press I'd just buy factory ammo! My first metallic press was a progressive, Dillon Square Deal-B, in 357. It is EASY to use. I can crank out a box in 10-15 minuets. I've never reached the claims of several hundred per hour; 'haven't tried to........ The process is very simple. Pull handle, push handle, add case, add bullet, finished round every pull. It is NOT difficult to adjust/change loads.
I reload rifle ammo on a single stage press. For my volume of shooting it works fine. I actually enjoy the time put into each of the few "finely crafted" rifle rounds I produce. If my shooting volume increased I might not......
I don't see a turret ever replacing my progressive for pistol cartridges unless I take up a low volume shooter such as a .454 Cassul. It may have merit for my rifle uses.
September 1, 2007, 03:16 AM
You either work on several cases with each pull of the press handle or not. There isn't much middle ground IMO.
September 1, 2007, 06:34 AM
What Rusty said.
IMO for small to medium levels of reloading in multiple calibers a turret is the way to go. Best bang for the buck in turrets is the Lee Classic Turret (http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1188638722.5816=/html/catalog/turretpress.html#ClassicTurretPress). Extra turrets are ten bucks. Buy a turret for each caliber, get your dies set, and switching calibers is a snap. You retain all the ability of a single stage to tune your loads, but get a lot more speed.
September 1, 2007, 09:16 AM
you have a unique situation you shoot some rifle and alot of pistol. with alot of diffrent calibures. Dillon would be a no just because the cost of tool heads and complicated switch outs. I have experience with dillon and lee. In your case I would do this, Buy an auto indexing 4 hole turret press and a load master with extra heads for both use the turret for low volume stuff and the load master for all your pistol and high volume rifle stuff. You can get both if you shop around for the 400-500 range then use the extra money for tool heads. Btw I got rid of my dillon in favor of lee you dont see that too often do you?(the dillon had alot of age on it and a few stress fractures)
September 1, 2007, 10:46 AM
TCAS: Sir; I struggled with the very issue. Turret VS. the world.
Narrowed it down between all the major brands.
You have most of the stuff to begin with; 'valued highly' unit.
Adding a Redding Turret:)
Set the Turret with what you need, and forget it.
You will pay more for additional Turrets, but look at the bright side.
Set one up for .45 and .243 another with .357 and 308 :)
The options outweigh any negative:)
Sir; I would like to follow along with your experiences, and good 'Turreting'
[didn't want to seem opinionated]
September 1, 2007, 11:51 AM
put a caveat into the turret-progressive discussion.
I started reloading again this spring after about a ten-year hiatus. I still had my gear--all Lee--and I unpacked and setup a Lee Turret and the Lee Pro 1000.
I updated one of the Turrets to the 4-die setup and have been pleased with the accuracy increase out of the 4th die position. I've always used a Turret for load development, and that's what I am doing--sorting out a good practice round in 38/357 PD ammo (a lead bullet recipe that will replicate the Speer Gold Dot Short Barrel 135 gr 38+P load), and developing sweet spot reloads for the new guns, etc., etc. There couldn't be a better press for doing 5- / 10- / 20- / 50-round batches.
After finding the 4-die benefits were real, I even pulled the Pro 1000 off the bench and set up the Load-Master, so I could have another 4-die set up on a production machine.
Once I got the hardware debugged, I can readily load about 200 bullets an hour on the 4-die Turret setup. The press does need cleaning about every 500-700 rounds, but that's fine--so will a progressive. Given your needs, it matches perfectly for both type of reloading and quantity needs.
Here's the emerging issue now: It's the "effort" issue--e.g., four strokes on the Turret versus one stroke on the Load-Master. I'm older now, and my body isn't what it used to be--specifically, I'm getting a 'sore shoulder'--which is probably the 'barb' that showed up about 15 years ago.
A turret should serve your needs well, and none of the advice here is bad. Personally, I come down with the idea of the Lee Classic Cast. But, if you're getting older, keep that stroke issue in mind.
September 1, 2007, 02:53 PM
Good comments, Now that I think about my set up time changing out dies tweeking the correct setting on the dies is my real time killer. The next time killer is measureing powder on the scale and tweeking the correct drop amount from the powder measure.
Looks like I could set up a turret press with the dies locked into the correct settings and change over to another caliber also with dies locked into correct setting. This would only leave tweeking the powder drop. --think I'm going to go with a turret, now which one....I read the link above on the Lee Classic Turret it seem to be a very good press. numerous good comments at the Midway site. I currently use Redding dies so I think I'll check out their press also.
September 1, 2007, 02:58 PM
Then do a search here on it for leads on pricing. Graf & Sons, and F&M, are really good Lee resellers. The Lee AutoDisk powder measure, deluxe version (Pro) works very well with an adjustable charge bar. It's cheap enough to get more than one for the pistol powders you use.
September 1, 2007, 03:22 PM
One of the most important things to look at is the auto indexing vs non auto index. Will a non auto indexing turret press be much faster than a single stage? I don't know but I do know that the Lee Classic is at least twice as fast. I own the Lee Classic and can make 200 rounds per hour. I have never used any of the other turrets but I would think that having to manually index the turret would slow things down a lot. I could be wrong but I think the Lee turret is the only auto indexing turret made. You are right about the only thing to adjust is the powder measure. I load a lot of 9mm and 223 and can change calibers in five minutes max. That includes moving the same powder measure to the new dies, but not the adjustment. The Lee Classic also has spent primer disposal through the ram into a tube to collect the primers and keep the bench and floor clean. I have had mine for about one year and have had zero problems. The safety prime has been awesome and the auto index has been flawless. Good luck with whatever you decide to buy.
September 1, 2007, 05:18 PM
I started out with a tong tool, then a rock chucker, then one day I was in the same spot you are and at the time Dillon was just getting started with the 550, so I bought one. I can't say enough about it!
Use it as a single stage if you want, use it as a progressive, it's good to go. Rifle, pistol - it does them all.
I prefer NON indexing. I control all phases of the work and as a result it is easier for me, but I suppose it's a matter of what you get used to.
Easy management of different calibers with minimal time spent on changes. I keep a tool head set up for each caliber, so there's no tweaking involved. I do set the seating die depending on the bullet I'm loading, but that's nothing.
Only complaint is going from small to large primer set up, but again, not a problem really, just a minute or so of extra steps. I load all rounds that use large or small first, then swap and load the others.
September 1, 2007, 05:19 PM
Sorry - double post.
September 2, 2007, 07:58 PM
I checked out the Redding t-7, it does not auto index and I don't think that goes with the design concept of this press. It seems more geared to producing low volumne accuracy ammo production. I like the 7 hole turret concept, I could set up 3 two die rifle sets and leave them on the turret ready to go.
This still does not resolve my need for high volumne pistol rounds. I may get a T-7 and the Lee Classic with one extra turret for the Lee. I think I could do both with upgraded accessories under $500. I have redding dies but I think I need the drop thru flange die and another taper crimp die as my current redding die set is only a 3 piece for 45 acp and the other pistol
thanks for the good feed back, now to go shopping.
September 2, 2007, 11:01 PM
I used to shoot IPSC matches using a full race 38 super. I practiced a lot and needed to reload a lot. My 38 won't even run on factory ammo. I bought a Lee Pro 1000. All of my friends have Dillion 550s and 650s but the Lee is much cheaper. I was/am able to crank out all the ammo I needed to using the Pro 1000. I used the money I saved to buy brass and casting equipment.
I don't shoot IPSC any more. I shoot a lot of rifles mostly MilSurps. When I reload for them I bought an old used Texan press and it works just fine for my needs. I'm not concerned about cranking out 2,000 rounds per sitting. I want twenty rounds that are all perfectly the same. The Texan does this for me when I do my part.
September 3, 2007, 12:57 AM
A couple of other options:
Depending on how you would use a turret, and how many of the operations can/will be done consecutively on it (without having to remove the case to do something off-press), a single stage with a method of changing dies quickly and securely (maintaining settings accurately), using the standard batch approach can be very nearly as fast as a turret. To allow rapid and secure die changes, I would look at either the Hornady LNL inserts and conversion bushing for your present Rockchucker press, or a Forster co-ax press. For standard cartridge reloading, there is no finer press than the co-ax.
On the other end, the Hornady LNL AP progressive press, because the individual dies are easily removed/replaced, can be used as a progressive, a turret (e.g loading only every 5th slot), or a fast batch mode processor, particularly if the case feeder is used. Even without the casefeeder, batch mode processing of every step except dumping powder and maybe seating are all faster since you don't have to mess with pulling the processed case off the press.
The Dillon 550 manually indexed progressive is available as a stripped-down turret press (AT500) that can be upgraded piece-meal to a 550.
For faster powder handling, a digital powder dispenser can speed up things considerably if you are relying on weighing every charge. It can weigh the next charge while you are seating the bullet on the current case.
Just more options to think about...
September 3, 2007, 08:24 AM
I've got a Lee Classic Turret. I also have a Hornady LnL and a Lee Classic Cast single stage. I bought the Lee Classic Turret a while back and have reloaded on it a good bit now for my low volume needs in order not to tie up my progressive where I'm loading large volume.
All that said, based on the volumes you're reloading, I wouldn't bother with a progressive. I'd go with the Lee Classic Cast. It'll give you the time savings you're likely looking for without a significant amount of money invested.
BTW, you can also add an RCBS powder through die and an RCBS Uniflow on the Lee to use when reloading rifle rounds with stick powder. I have one on my Lee for use when reloading milsurp rifle. Works real well.
I wouldn't bother with any of the other turret presses. You won't get as accurate a cartridge due to turret "tilt" and you won't see a significant increase in speed or you won't be able to reduce the time invested in reloading over the single stage you now have as much as you would like. How do I know this? I tried using the older design turrets BEFORE I bought the Lee Classic Cast.
The big different is the quickly changed out turrets and the automatic rotation of the turret head to get to the next die. Really speeds up setup time and operation time. In fact, I can often be half finished reloading a caliber of lower volume before I could finish setting it up on a progressive.
September 3, 2007, 09:06 AM
I got my Lee Classic Turret back in May after spending weeks reading various threads in THR. Everyone was very helpful and eventually I was directed towards Kempf Gun Shop for my kit. I emailed Sue Kempf a few questions about the kit and she replied quickly with good honest answers. My kit was shipped quickly. I definately recommend the Lee Clasic Turret, I'm glad I got it. I also recommend Kempf gun shop, here is the link. Good luck!http://www.kempfgunshop.com/products/reloading/leeprecision/kits/KempfKit.html
September 3, 2007, 11:14 PM
I know that dillon offers a video you can buy to illustrate the operation of their press, does Lee offer the same thing?
September 4, 2007, 01:16 AM
I thought that turret presses were designed to be used like a single stage press. As in: resize/deprime 50 cases and put them in a loading block, prime and charge 50 cases with powder, Rotate turret, seat 50 bullets. I realize that you CAN rotate the turret 50 times to complete 50 rounds. I just don't think they were DESIGNED to be used this way. Maybe some of them are and some aren't? Tell me.
In my mind progressives and turrets are apples and oranges. Turrets and single stage presses are oranges and tangerines!
September 4, 2007, 01:50 AM
I have a single stage, a turret, and a progressive on my bench.
I keep the single stage as a back up.
I use the Lyman T-MagII for all of my rifle loads and I've loaded 4,000 rounds of 223 with it this year alone. I go in stages, Xdie for sizing, usually 200 rounds at a time and i instantly prime the round. I keep them in ready bags.
When I'm ready I drop powder and seat bullet.
I usr my RCBS Pro 2000 set up for 40 smith. (I have the fixins for 11 calibers) I will pump off 200 rounds at a time for this, about a half hour. That is 4 boxes, two of which get put into my shoot bag and 2 in a 50cal ammo can.
I try and keep 100 rounds of every caliber I have and the fixins for 200 more.
September 4, 2007, 02:47 AM
"I thought that turret presses were designed to be used like a single stage press...I realize that you CAN rotate the turret 50 times to complete 50 rounds. I just don't think they were DESIGNED to be used this way. Maybe some of them are and some aren't? Tell me."
The Lee turret presses can be operated with or without an index rod. This rod moves the turret automatically with each stroke...see this video:
One can easily remove the rod--which allows you to operate it in the manner you describe, for batch processing--or you can simply complete all operations on one cartridge with repeated strokes of the handle. It was designed to be operated either way.
I rarely load ammo on the Lee Turret I have (old version, updated to 4-die with Safety Prime) without the indexer. However, I just reload pistol cartridges and not rifle (yet). I do, however, remove the rod if I am 'tweaking' a die adjustment, or trying out seating a new bullet. When I adjust the powder measure adjustable charge bar, I leave the bar in so that the turret indexes in the same way I do when building a full cartridge so that the powder settles consistently.
It's a nice little press, and the Classic Cast Turret shown in the video appears to be noticably better. For an exhaustive review of the Classic Cast Turret, see this link: http://www.realguns.com/archives/122.htm
September 12, 2007, 09:55 AM
I got the 4 hole turret in on Monday evening and by Tuesday afternoon I had some loads completed. Several post mentioned it only took 2 hours to set up. It took me 2 hours just to open all the boxes in the kit (Kemph) and read the instructions for each piece.
Instructions were minimal, so I used a supplied link (THR) to surplusguns for much more detailed instructions. After reading this doc, it took me about 1 hour to assemble the press and adjust the dies. Overall it took me about 5 hours but I'm one of those that acutually reads the instructions.
Some observations from a longtime single stage press users.
- I think some of the part designs are ingenious and or simplistic as to function (which is good) The safety primer system is an example: simple design but greatly speeds up the loading process.
- The prodisk powder measure was the culprit that took most of my time. I placed the disk on with the ram in the down position (which is wrong) The Ram needs to up in order to get the disk seated properly. I did not notice that the powder tube could be installed wrong, guess what way I installed it...
- The first couple of throws from the disk varied by +- .3 grain. I used clays and the .66 disk. It started throwing charges around 4.7grains and slowly settled to @ 4.3 - 4.4grains. NOTE: pull out the turret index and throw about 5-6 charges before you start to reload. I think this settles the powder down and makes more consistent loads. The disk was a little shy of the stated charge weight.
My kit came with Lee dies. I only used the powder thru expander and Factory Crimp die. The Factory crimp die seems bumpy and by no means smooth. not sure if this is normal..I previouly used redding taper crimp (seperate operation from bullet seating) and it was butter smooth. I will test these lee turret loads against my standard loads on the single stage to get a good accuracy test.
My Baretta CX4 is a good test platform to measure accuracy as the long barrel and red dot scope shot from a bench can rule out some human error. I plan to test 4 proven loads with 230 lead Round nose bullets using Clays, Longshot, Bluedot and 700x
-Overall I'm impressed with the Lee 4 hole turret, I hope it is durable and not to fickle. only time will tell.--thanks for the replies they have been greatly appreciated.
What I like best: if I only have 1/2 hour to load I will be able to crank out 50- 100 rounds with out all the set up hassle. That alone is worth the price of admission.
September 12, 2007, 12:21 PM
TCAS, your writeup provides a valuable review from a new (Turret) user's perspective, but from one who is also an experienced reloader.
Here's some observations I have on your experiences to date. I can't tell when / how you are doing the decapping and sizing, but the comments I have do assume you're doing all processes in the Turret.
1. Now that you have the die setup done, I would do it again, and get it fine-tuned to operation. If one starts with the decapping / sizing die and gets it set properly (firm contact, plus 1/4 turn) and locked down, it provides the basis for setting the rest of the dies properly.
2. The powder-through expanding die's base setting (firm contactwith the shell holder, less 1 turn) is just a recommendation; it depends on how much one wants to flare / work their case. I have mine set at - 5/8 or - 3/4, which works well for the (lead) bullets I use--no shaving.
3. As you've discovered (and is intended), the Lee VMD disk sizings provide 'conservative' weights--e.g., they will always be under. However, any change to the charge is cumbersome, and typically not very flexible. Because I use my Turret for load development (and therefore want to vary charge weights by perhaps .2 gr, and occasionally even .1 gr), I installed an adjustable charge bar on my Pro Auto and never looked back. The Charge Bar allows that kind of charge weight tweaking, and it is done with simply a 'small-turn-of-the-vernier-and-weigh' routine.
As you noted, it is important to verify the charge weight--but rather than doing it with the index rod out, one should verify with turret operation the way you will be reloading. In other words, if one uses the index rod for your reloading, check the weight with a full operation of the turret (4 strokes), for the movement of the turret does impact the charge weight--there's more settling of powder into the disk / adj. bar.
4. The FCD die is normally 'bumpy' in its operation--and sometimes more. It varies from a taper crimp die in that it provides the crimp only--unless final sizing is needed; then a sliding carbide sizer works the brass as well--and that depends, I think, on the brass and the bullet being used. On a Lee 4-die setup, the seater-crimper die is set up to do only seating, and the FCD die does the crimping and a final resizing as needed.
A taper crimp die, OTOH, will apply a final sizing regardless of the current seating and crimp on the cartridge--all depending on how you've set up the die. I shifted to the FCD in station four, like you I get a 'bump' at the crimp operation--and, if I was using a lead bullet, some squeeze / resizing as the die slides over the bullet base and the carbide resizer operates. Then, assuming the cartridge was originally / properly resized in station one, the FCD may not contact the brass again.
I used the taper crimp die for years to solve my SA feed problems--but it could squeeze the (lead) bullet more than necessary. With the FCD die, you get the proper crimp--which is easily adjusted, and not part of a combined seating and crimping that necessitates repeat trials--and then get a post-sizing that ensures good chambering as well.
With a taper crimp die, I could never see a noticable change in accuracy that was repeatable. Indeed, if the bullet was out of spec, the crimp amount would change. With the FCD die, I immediated gained a 1/2" or so increase in accuracy, and clean chambering as well.
I suspect the only problem you may have with the Turret is the occasional ratchet failure. If you avoid short-stroking when in the index bar twist, that probably won't happen. You got an extra ratchet with the press, I think. Order up some more to have on hand, and when it fails, count on doing a strip-and-clean and be sure to install the new one correctly.
Do count on a maintenance routine every few hundred rounds to clean and relube. I found that getting rid of the grunge by cleaning up and re-oiling the index rod goes a long way toward smooth operation. Look for other posts here on Turret Tweaking Tips, too.
September 13, 2007, 08:40 PM
thanks for the feed back. I did make it to the range today but first I'll answer some of the questions in your email.
1 yes all steps are performed on the press, as for the sizer dies, I'm using redding, The don't recommend setting the carbide die in contact with the shell holder. I have about the width of a sheet of paper between them. The dies are set to equal previous loads that shoot very well.
230 grain lead
2 -flange is minimal no brass shaving but it took about 5 rounds to tweak. not a full 3/4 turn but close.
3 I did purchase the adjustable charge bar but have not really looked at it yet. I assume it works in the same manner as the disk and is not intended to be used with a disk????????????
4 My redding taper crimp/seater is only performing the seating function. The FCD is doing the crimp. I can notice more or less contact on the brass depending on brand. I loaded 4 brands. LC had the most contact, WW and Federal next and similiar. CCI had the least contact. I made no adjustment to the die for the different brands and outside diameter on the crimp never varied much. .470--.471
5- I clean my dies about 500 round with lead bullets so I'll just add some turret maintenance to the procedure.
Now for the range test. My Lee ammo was not as consistently accurate as my hand crafted single stage set up. I compared 50 round of each. The two powder charges were not exactly the same.
Single stage set up had 4.2 grains clays with a trickle charge to exact weight and Lee was throwing 4.3-4.4 grains. The single stage ammo had seat and crimp performed in seperate stages but no FCD was used. Otherwise all die set up was the same.
Single stage set up at 70 feet was shooting 90% of round into 2 inches no rest but I did lean against the indoor ange partition.
Turret set up at 70 feet. 75% of rounds into 2 inches. I fired the Turret set up first and had two big guns on each side of me. Lane 3 was shooting 45 colt and lane 5 was short barrel 357 magnum. By the time I got to the single stage rounds both sides were clear. This alone could account for the larger group size on the lee. I generally have good trigger control those big guns always seem louder at the indoor range. Many of the groups were great 4-5 shots touching. Overall the single stage had more hits inside the 2inch ring. More testing to come.
September 13, 2007, 09:38 PM
Thanks for your range report and other comments, Tom.
I'm in the middle of that reloading project I mentioned earlier--and I expanded my 'replica' search for that Speer 38+P PD cartridge to include 357 Mag cases. IOW, I am trying to replicate the felt recoil of a factory 38+P round using a different round and different bullets. So, to 'move' a 38+P load to a '357 lite' load has involved much, much testing. I now have it sorted out pretty well for three powders, with one more to go.
These are being shot from J-frames--two of them (S&W 640 and S&W 340) have 2" barrels and are DAO; the third is a Model 65 (SA-DA, adj. sights, and a 3" barrel). The direct personal benefit is to accomplish a complete acclimation to this type of revolver shooting--and that is happening: A round I could just tolerate for a cylinderful in the 640 (24 oz) and found virtually unshootable in the 340 (13.3 oz) is now shootable in the 640 in a measured rapid-fire and with fairly fast reloads; with the 340, it is slower, but I can even use the speedloader and get a reload in--but ten rounds is it.
So, the reloading in this project has been (for example) first doing the Speer Data recipe for 38+P with their bullet with a powder they recommend and finding the load most similar to the factory round--then moving that load, adjusted as needed, to the 357 case and finding the load that approximates the factory recoil. Then, I move that basic data to a lead bullet of nominally the same weight.
Insofar as our discussion here, I've elaborated on my current reloading work because my range work is different from yours. With my aging eyes, I have trouble using the sights properly now. Needless to say, the nominal 4.5" sight radius is difficult under any circumstances. Given the usage parameters (personal defense from a carry gun), I shoot at 10 yards, and when I check for accuracy, I shoot from a benchrest.
OK, to the points at hand:
1. Re the adjustable charge bar. Get it out and read the instructions once, carefully (unless you are fixated on the Lee dipping / VMD routine), and forget that approach. Install it, and set it to something like ".4" on the vernier scale. With one of your powders, weigh that charge. Adjust it plus-one on the knob index, and weigh that. Do it again, and get a feel for how much you gain in weight with each standard index.
Then, do the inverse--set a weight on the scale, and get the measure adjusted to that weight. (When you adjust a bar, always go UP from lighter to heavier, and do at least two or three throws when you go down. When you go down, the bar 'compresses' the existing load in the cavity and can give a false reading.) Now increase your scale weight by .2 gr., and carefully adjust the knob index upwards to throw that weight. NOTE the index change--and repeat this several times, taking notes.
Once you get a feel for it, you will find, for example, that AA#5 increases .2 grain for about 1.25 indices. As you build this table of relative changes for each powder, you can quickly dial in the approximate increase on the bar and then confirm it on the scale. For my project above, I am increasing my charges in .1 (one-tenth) gr increments--and I can get that done in two charges, usually.
One last caveat--depending on the powder, the charge bar has a bottom limit--consider it to be about 3 grains for ball pistol powders--below which it will not be accurate. If you shoot any ultra-softball loads, keep that in mind. The problem is probably bridging, maybe even static--I've never investigated it, just found that limit and stay upwards of it.
With all this verbosity, here's why I discussed at length how to use the charge bar: You will now be able to dial in the exact charge weight you were shooting with when you did your single-stage reloading. When you do that, I will be curious to see your range results for accuracy. With my range time in my project, I am finding that two-tenths grain easily changes a group by 1/4" or even 1/2"
So, on your next range trip, see if you can't use some ammo with the same charge weight as your single-stage, but built on the Turret.
FYI, as I updated my gear this time around, I stayed with all Lee dies, to eliminate one possible variable for the time being. When you get around to it, you may want to try just Lee dies and set them up by Lee's directions.
OK, keep us updated, Tom.
September 15, 2007, 12:12 AM
I also recommend the Lee Classic Turrent press. You can take out the rod and use it as a single stage for instance, for de-priming tumbled brass. I hand prime, then stick back in the rod and charge, press, and factory crimp. You just pull out the entire turrent with dies to put in another caliber setup, and continue. This can put out a hundreds of rounds an hour. It is better than a single stage, and if you have one now, you can use it for de-priming. I have mounted my Lee powder measure to the bench, and dump the load into my cup on the scale, adjust it to perfect and use a funnel to charge. Works for me, because I see each charge before I press.
September 15, 2007, 01:07 AM
How much time do you have? How valuable is it? How much money are you willing to spend? If you were to answer those three questions it would narrow down your choices. Iíve got eight different reloading presses and I like the turrent when I only need a few rifle rounds as I can leave dies (up to six) for different calibers pre set, this is the less than 50+- at a time setup. If Iím looking at a few hundred of a new load (pistol) I use one of two Dillon SDís. If Iím running 1000ís at a time for competition of the same load I use one of two 650ís decked out with powder check dies, case & bullet feeders. It has been pointed out before that progressives take longer to set up than the slower machines (tortoise vs. hair argument) thatís the reason for two of each, one large primer one small, without having to change the priming system a 650 can be converted from 9mm to say 223 in under 5min. Now for your needs, IMO < 100 rounds a year you might as well stick with what youíve got, same goes for 30 a week. 100 a week really isnít that much unless your time is really valuable to you, a progressive is probably not justifiable (if you had one you would be loading for many months of shooting at one time).
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