Scratches on cylinder...


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chad1043
September 7, 2007, 07:28 PM
I have noticed when I'm looking at used pistols on Gun Broker that there are lots of scratches on cylinder. Is this a common occurance? Is the nature of the design prone to scratches?

Thanks,
Chad

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Novus Collectus
September 7, 2007, 07:34 PM
I guess it depends on the model and where they are scratched. On my Pietta 1868 Remington it is scratched where the cylinder stop is because more than a few times I tried to place the cylinder in with the hammer at full cock. When the the hammer is at full cock the stop that sticks up right above the tgrigger is fully extended and that sucker is kinda sharp like a cutting tool on a lathe.

ED21
September 7, 2007, 07:44 PM
It's not scratches, it's engraving. :D Some is just better that others.

chad1043
September 7, 2007, 07:56 PM
Hold on I'll find an example...

chad1043
September 7, 2007, 07:59 PM
Here is a a gun... Are those scratches or engravings?

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=79818469

Thanks,
Chad

Jim K
September 7, 2007, 08:01 PM
Many of the current BP revolvers have sharp edges on the frame and other parts and will scratch the cylinder. Some scoring around the circumference of the cylinder from the bolt is common, as few of those guns are properly timed to drop the bolt in the leade where it should go.

If reducing scratching is important, I recommend that a new gun be disassembled and burrs taken off the frame window, the hammer opening, the bolt, and other parts that can score or gouge the cylinder, hammer, or loading lever. This can normally be done without removing any noticeable amount of finish.

Jim

Snaggletooth
September 7, 2007, 09:06 PM
It is a good idea to check the bolt on a new gun. If it rubs against the cylinder when at half cocl it might be a good idea to take some of the tension off the spring that pushes the bolt up.. It only takes about a quarter turn most of the time but thar is what I do to all new guns

tkendrick
September 7, 2007, 09:27 PM
If you are referring to the forward part of the cylinder, that's engraving.

Z71
September 7, 2007, 09:28 PM
Engraving of some naval battle during the Mexican war. Colts and Colt replica revolvers of the percussian era have engravings of some sort on the cylinder. Colt 1849's have a stage coach stick-up on the cylinder.

Misfire99
September 7, 2007, 09:57 PM
What I find interesting about this pistol is they say it's unfired but it has a nice grove all the way around the cylinder where the cylinder stop has been dragging on the cylinder. And yes that is a scratch. I don't think this gun is unfired.

dstorm1911
September 7, 2007, 10:04 PM
it can be unfired it was just cocked alot

Chawbaccer
September 8, 2007, 09:23 AM
Most likely some lonesome cowboy liked to spin the cylinder. That is a brass frame anyway so any scratching would be the least of worries.

Tru Griff
September 8, 2007, 12:20 PM
"it can be unfired it was just cocked alot"

My new 1860 Colt Army that has only been powder fired once, no lead, has began scratchs like those but only due to me cocking it many times. It doesnt go around the cylinder like the one on auction but I could see it happening after several more times of cocking it over and over. As stated it is brass framed so that would be the least of your problems if it has been fired many times.

Old Fuff
September 8, 2007, 12:52 PM
Many new owners, or others who are unfamiliar with cap & ball or other similar single-action revolvers, make the mistake of pulling the hammer back to half-cock, rotating the cylinder to load it, and then lowering the hammer from the half-cock position. Then they rotate the cylinder until it is latched by the cylinder bolt. As a result the bolt presses against the cylinder while it’s being rotated, and leaves a long scratch.

To avoid this always pull the hammer all of the way backwards from the half-cock notch, and then lower it all of the way down, (but not resting on a loaded and capped chamber, or on a metallic cartridge, which ever the case may be).

coati858
October 16, 2007, 12:53 AM
^^^Argh, I just learned this lesson the hard way. Scratched the hell out of a perfectly nice Navy Arms '58 New Model Navy. :(

I guess I can just replace the cylinder so that each time I open the case, I'm not looking at the scratches, and then I'll have a spare for quicker reloading when shooting ... assuming I don't make the same mistake again.

I think the Navy Arms was made by Pietta? Any problems (fitment or otherwise) forseen with buying a new Pietta cylinder today from VTI for an older model?

I just wish my first post were under less self-incriminating circumstances. Hi everyone!


Edit: Now I'm not so sure this one is by Pietta, there are no marks from either (not even under the loading lever), just proof marks and a shield that I can't really make out. I've been searching Google and a bunch of forums, and it seems Navy Arms was using Uberti back then, so maybe...
Anyway, same question then: Would a new replacement cylinder (or conversion cylinder) work fine with a 38 year old version?

mykeal
October 16, 2007, 07:38 AM
Would a new replacement cylinder (or conversion cylinder) work fine with a 38 year old version?

Replacing a cylinder is always a little risky; there are close tolerances that might require some adjustment. Crossing manufacturers entails the most risk, and the older guns might also have some issues. There isn't really any way to tell for sure. If the cylinder ring (that's what that scratch around the circumference of the cylinder between the bolt notches is called) really bothers you, and all you want the new cylinder for is so that it looks good when in the case, then go for it.

coati858
October 16, 2007, 10:23 AM
Thanks!

If I wasn't the one who did it, the cylinder ring wouldn't bother me any more than any of the other (admitedly few) scratches the pistol has picked up over the years. I guess I'm not intending to sell it, just shoot it and pass it on to the kids, so perhaps some day I can come to the conclusion that it doesn't matter much, at all. :D

OTOH, before I get any new cylinders (replacement or conversion) or other important parts, I do need to figure out who made this. I really have spent some time searching online, but I can't find anything other than the "Navy Arms Co. Ridgefield N.J. - Italy" on the top of the barrel, ".36 Cal." on the side of the barrel, 3-digit number on the barrel under the loading lever, matching 3-digit number on the cylinder, a serial number on the bottom of the backstrap and the proof marks on the barrel and frame.

None of the determinative markings that the "identify this pistol" threads include what I've found anyway. I did find one thread that implied that Pietta always marked theirs clearly and that the default for unmarked Navy Arms of that era was Uberti, but ... :confused:

tkendrick
October 16, 2007, 11:35 AM
There are several books that will allow you to ID a manufacturer by the proof marks. You may have to dig to find one.

coati858
October 17, 2007, 01:04 AM
Found it! It was underneath the very base of the barrel and also underneath the base pin. I couldn't get a perfect look at it (I'd have to completely remove the base pin for that), but what I could see is consistent with the Uberti "U" in the octagon/gunbarrel and doesn't look at all like anyone else's marks that I've run across.

Thanks, all! Can't wait to actually shoot this thing.

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