[Ledbetter]

I have read that the DA pull on a J-frame can be reduced by snipping off a couple of coils of the mainspring.

Has anyone done this and is there anything to be careful of? I guess I can always order a new mainspring if I foul it up. I want my wife to be able to use the gun DA and the pull is a little too stiff for her as we found out last weekend. Just a slight reduction is all I'm looking for.

Thanks for any help you can give.

[Boats]

Reduced Power Hammer Springs here. (http://gunsprings.com/Revolver/1ndex.html)

I note that the S&W J-frame has an 8.5 lb factory spring. Wolff sells a reduced power spring, probably comparable in cost to possibly screwing up overshortening the factory unit. Why mess around? Get a reduced power one in the correct length.

[Ledbetter]

I may order one of those and also try the clip-a-coil method.

"Why mess around?" Well, what would life be like without a little messing around.?;)

[dfariswheel]

If you're going with the "clip-a-coil" or the reduced power springs, be sure to test for "push off".
After the new spring is in, cock the hammer and push firmly forward.
If the hammer de-cocks, this is push off, and the gun isn't safe.

It's not uncommon to have this show up on lightened spring jobs.

After cutting or replacing the spring, test with at least 50-100 rounds of the same ammo you're going to be using, to insure adequate ignition.

Spring-related mis-fires in a defense gun ain't funny.

[Old Fuff]

If this particlar revolver is a defensive weapon you'd be wise to let a professional do the work. There is a lot more to it then just changing or "clipping" a mainspring. If you must clip a spring, work on the trigger rebound spring rather then the mainspring.

[Ledbetter]

I ordered the spring kit from Wolff with the mainspring and rebound spring.

Any installation tips or info sites would be appreciated. I usually only go to the gunsmith AFTER I've already screwed it up.

This is why I once received an invoice where the work was described as follows:

"Correctly reassemble customer's PPK/S slide."

Gunsmith humor, I guess.:uhoh:

[E357]

I with "Old Fluff" on this. On a defensive carry gun the only spring I would cut would be the rebound spring - and just a coil or two will reduce the pull enought that you will notice. Don't forget to polish up and break the edges of the rebound slide.

Elliot

[Standing Wolf]

I have more faith in Wolff springs than Smith & Wesson's, anyway.

[Mike Irwin]

You can. But you can't put more back on if you err and snip too much off.

And remember, the hammer spring isn't the only spring that contributes to the apparent trigger pull.

The rebpund slide spring has just as much effect on the felt trigger pull.

[mete]

The length of the spring can be important so clipping is not the best way. Better to get wolff springs. Better yet to have a complete trigger job because smoothing the parts can reduce trigger pull also. As already mentioed , if it is a defense gun it must have reliable ignition.

[Stainz]

Besides light hammer strikes and subsequent ftf (failure to fire), reduced trigger effort is often effected by using a lighter trigger rebound spring. I have had such springs in both my N-frame S&W's and Ruger Super Redhawk - and they all have been replaced again by OEM springs. It started with rapid follow up shots with my 625 plate gun - the trigger wouldn't return fast enough - and then, later, wouldn't return! I had a similar problem with another so-equipped N-frame - and then my .454! The springs had taken a 'set' - shorter released length. As my revolvers 'broke-in', they smoothed out - and the OEM springs weren't that bad. I did buy a pair solely for protection - a 296 & 696. They were left stock... for lawyer-proof reasons - and dependability. Break-in a S&W by dry or live firing it - and cleaning it regularly. I reload, but I don't use the Federal primers, the lowest pressur to fire primers, so I must insure proper ignition by using OEM hammer springs, too. No more low force springs here...

Stainz