[Ammo First]

Greetings Road going brethren, Recently picked up a dan wesson .357 revolver 6 inch (excellent cond.) made in monson mass. A friend and I took it shooting today, it handled 38 special just fine however when we switched to s&b .357 158gr. it started shooting sparks like a bat out of hell. Sparks were emitting from between the barrel and cylinder and behind the cylinder. It got so bad on one occasion the sparks burnt a hole in my shirt burning my chest. Cylinder also bound up, unwilling to rotate for the next shot. At the same time I could not cock the hammer. It was'nt completly frozen, I could hit the cylinder release swing open the cylinder, reload and start over. The same exact sequence would repeat again. Serial # 352xxx Any Idea what is going wrong? thanks for any replies.

[WonderNine]

I don't know if the revolver could be out of time, but just to let you know, I had a similiar experience with 158gr. S&B ammo, though not as bad as you. When I'd shoot the stuff occasionally a spark would come back and hit me in the throat or face. I thought at the time maybe the gun (a Ruger SP101) was slightly out of time, but it didn't happen with the Remington Golden Sabers I shot through it nor the .38 specials as I recall....

Those S&B's sure have alot of copper on the bullet.

[Majic]

Were the S&B cases sooty when you extracted them? Since you said the sparks also came from the rear of the cylinder sounds like the cases are not expanding enough to seal off the chamber. Mic the chambers, an unfired S&B cartridge, a fired S&B case, and a fired .38 case for a comparison.
The stiff cylinder sounds like unburnt powder getting between the cylinder and the crane. If the cylinder won't turn the hammer will not be able to cock.

[Jim March]

My first thought: check the barrel/cylinder gap.

Dan Wessons have *adjustable* gaps, because the barrel unscrews (with a special tool). As you install a barrel, setting the gap is a normal part of the process.

Two guesses: either somebody incompetent installed the barrel and set a gap up past .008" or something, or didn't tighten it enough and it's loosened up (which is a BAD situation, as the frame threads could strip and you'll spit the barrel downrange, and then you're just screwed).

I cannot urge strongly enough that you check this and if it's sloppy, get ahold of the barrel tool and instructions on removal/installation of the barrel (both are available at the current DW website) and re-set that gap to about .003" or so if it's a short barrel and you want max velocity, or .004/.005 if it's a longer tube and you want greater reliability (longer time to shoot between cleanings before the crud factor gets in the way of cylinder rotation). On my 38snubbie, I live with a .002" gap that needs a wipe-down of the cylinder face and back of barrel every 30 to 40 shots. The tradeoff: greater velocity :cool: which 38+P out of a 2" needs all it can get. So I keep it clean.

Anyways, on a DW, set it however you want. I wouldn't go bigger than .006" though, and I suspect yours is .01+.

:scrutiny:

[MarineTech]

I'd agree with Jim. I've got 2 Dan Wesson revolvers. One of them is a Monson Mass. 715-2 .357 Magnum that I've had for almost 10 years. What you're describing really sounds like the barrel/cylinder gap is off.

That would be the first thing I'd try. Once you've reset the gap correctly, try it again. If you still get the same problem, then you might want to have a gunsmith check the timing.

[dude]

It does sound like a time/gap issue

-but-

.......also make sure your grip bolt is not torqued too tight, as this will effect hammer operaton keeping it from locking back on ocassion. Some custom Hogue wood grips need a washer (or two) to get the proper 'stand off' for proper torque and roevoler operation

[Swamp Yankee]

I would have to agree with Jim.

Other areas to look at include the area around the forcing cone for a build up of lead and powder. This area is difficult to clean and will build up particularly in the area of the top strap. A small dental pick will work wonders. Check the barrel end of the cylinder for a witness line around the outside diameter. Have seen cases where the previously described build up would wear a track in the bluing.

Check the entire frame, barrel / forcing cone, and cylinder with a very bright light for any small burrs that may have kicked up and created a drag.

Check the barrel side cylinder face when scrubbed clean for runout. From your discription of the problem I would not expect this to be an issue. The symptoms are usually on or two chambers sticking or harder to turn.

Does the cylinder spin freely when out of the frame? I have seen cases where the clearance between the cylinder bore and the spindle is lost due to a build up of a gummy varnish of powder and oil. The only way to truly clean this area is to remove the sideplate and and disassemble the crane and cylinder assembly.

Take Care

[Dr.Rob]

Another thing with DW revolvers once you get the gap set LEAVE IT. You are not supposed to re-gap the thing with every cleaning. Tightening down the gap should be a once a year thing at most.

[Ammo First]

Thanks for all the feedback. I have the gapping tool and barrel wrench, I've never worked on one but it seems fairly straight foreward. Maybe I'll check the DW site for procedure.