[UnderDawgAl]

Long story short is that I'm finally breaking out the Lee Turret Press that my dad got me for Christmas 19 years ago. I see now that I can convert it to a 4-hole so that it includes the factory crimp die.

For starters, I'll just be reloading .38 Special.

Because I'm new at all this, is it worth it to get the Lee Factory Crimp Die and add it to the Turret Press? How much difference does adding that die to the process make?

[Uncle Don]

What the hell, I'll play. In my opinion, I would switch to the four hole press because you can choose to use a factory crimp die, or not, and just operate the press once more for the empty hole. The reason I think it's worth it is because the four hole press does not need any tension adjustment. The index rod can be taken in and out of the press at will with no effect on the timing of the press. The three hole does work fine, but it does require you to use the right level of tension against a white plastic bushing inside the clamp. The four hole also has a ratchet, but it's black and the housing is only there to contain and capture but has no adjustment.

I don't use a factory crimp die on my 45 ACP, but I simply operate the lever after removing the case and getting another - no time lost.

[jfh]

when I got my gear out again after eight years, I decided to update one.

After adding the FCD die to my 10mm die set, I found my groups had shrunk by 1/4 to 1/2" (2 to 1&1/2" at 15 yards, and that I had less trouble chambering.

I then updated my 357 (Lee) setup, and the .38 Special setup as well, because I was going to embark on an extensive development project. I had NOT reloaded those calibers before--but I can tell you that the ability to set the seating depth and the bullet crimp in two separate dies makes life so much easier than tweaking the single / third die alone to get it "just right."

If you decide to do this, then I would recommend you update the auto disk powder measure--and, depending on the update kits you get, add in a riser for the powder-through-expanding die and a swivel adapter as well. The "Pro" update is worth it, as is using the adjustable charge bar--which comes with that kit, I believe. Finally, although I don't think the Safety-Prime update is mandatory, it does make life more convenient.

I think Graf & Sons will have all these items--to search there, get the part nos. for what you want from the Lee site, then combine 'Lee' with the part number (as in Lee12345) and simply enter it in the Graf & Sons search function.


Jim H.

[ArchAngelCD]

I like using a FCD even when it's not totally necessary because that die also does a full case resizing at the final step. That makes for very high quality and accurate handloads.

[UnderDawgAl]

You guys are a great help. Will follow your advice. Thanks.

[The Bushmaster]

I have a 20 year old 3 hole Lee turret and see no reason to change it to a 4 hole as I resize/decap on a single stage. I also prime in a seperate operation...

[ArchAngelCD]

Origina;;y Posted By: The Bushmaster
I have a 20 year old 3 hole Lee turret and see no reason to change it to a 4 hole as I resize/decap on a single stage. I also prime in a seperate operation...
Sometimes when you seat the bullet or run the case through a press the case can become slightly out of shape. The FCD assures the round is perfectly uniform when you complete the operation.

[RustyFN]

I like the FCD because I change styles of bullets a lot so I am changing OAL a lot. It is just easier to seat and crimp in seperate steps. If you have the other dies setup right you won't feel the post sizing ring touch the case. I don't worry about one every couple of thousand but I wouldn't want the FCD to have to fix most of the rounds I am making. I agree it is a great die to have. I use one in every caliber I reload.
Rusty

[The Bushmaster]

ArchAngelCD...In as much as I resize/decap and prime on my single stage I have only two other dies in my turret. Through powder/expanding die and the seating/crimping die that leaves me one hole open for those rounds that I use a FCD instead of the crimping part of the bullet seating die. Works for me...

[campbell]

Try a Redding Profile Crimp Die. For straight walled revolver cartridges, there's nothing better.

[UnderDawgAl]

Well, I converted the Turret to a 4-holer and installed the FCD. It's taken me a bit to figure out the whole system--old-style Auto Disk powder dispenser, correct disk size, seating and crimping settings, etc.--but I shot my first 10 reloads today. .38 Spl with 148-gr HBWC over ~2.6 grains of Bullseye, out of a 3rd-gen Detective Special.

Looks like I'll need a little more practice using the press so that I can tighten up the groups, which were scattered, unlike the tight groups I got from Rem 130-gr FMJ from Wal-Mart.

After shooting, I reloaded another 90 rounds, about 1/2 with 2.9 gr of Bullseye (cavity .32) and the rest with ~2.6-2.7 gr (cavity .30). We'll see next week how the accuracy fares.

Per suggestions above, I'm looking at getting the update kit for the Auto Disk. The hopper's already breaking where the screws thread into it, and tonight is the first time I've used it, of course after it sat in storage for 19 years. Heck, I might just buy a couple of replacement hoppers instead (only $1.89 at Midway) and add a tiny washer or o-ring to the wood screws. Still haven't decided on the adjustable charge bar yet, since I'm only reloading .38 Spl with Bullseye right now and saving for a good used S&W Model 14.

Thanks again for the good advice and input, fellers.

[copdills]

I purchased a 3 hole instead of a 4 hole for this reason, I have always decapped and resized on my single stage press, 1000 at a time and I use a lee hand primer tool to install primers, so on my press I have the powder expander die, the bullet seating die and the taper crimp die for my auto's and can load alot of rounds very fast at this point easy as 1,2,3