[Browning]

What are the best broadheads to use for hunting deer and hog? The traditional recurve bow in question would be in the 56 to 70 pound range with a 30 inch draw. I'm just getting into archery so I've got a ways to go before I get there, but I was just wondering what's out there.

For instance has anyone used these?

http://www.3riversarchery.com/images/large/4225.jpg

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?c=57&s=120&p=0&i=4225

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These also look more traditional, but are supposed to be legal to hunt with.

http://www.nwarchery.com/nss-folder/arrowbuildingsupplies/si_Uw280h280_26-Broadheads.jpg

http://www.nwarchery.com/arrowbuildingsupplies/

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http://www.braveheartarchery.us/images/Grizzly%20El%20Grande-w.jpg

http://www.braveheartarchery.us/new_page_2.htm

http://www.ancientarchery.com/Arrows.htm

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I wanted more of an older and more traditional look, at the same time though I didn't want the deer or hog to suffer or to get away.

For instance I didn't really want something like this.
http://www.archeryca.com/catalog/images/broadhead.jpg

So are these still popular? Or are most people using the pop out day glo arrowheads that do everything for you except fill out your taxes at the end of the year?

[Kimber1911_06238]

I like slick tricks, they plane much less than traditional style broadheads and leave a huge 4 blade hole. The two and three blades work, but I like an extra blade for insurance. Watching the animal drop within 50 yards is always a good thing. And an extra large blood trail never hurts either..

Just my $0.02

[Browning]

Slick Tricks? I just did a search on it.

You mean these right?

http://slicktrick.net/images/SlickTrick125-1.jpg


http://peteward.com/test.slicktrick.htm

Yeah, I wanted something that still works well, but that doesn't look so modern.

[Kimber1911_06238]

yup, they work well for me....check out the pic

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=304228

[Kimber1911_06238]

don't get me wrong, any of the broadheads you posted will work great if you put a good double lung shot on.

If you want something more traditional try magnus snuffers....heard a lot of good things about them

[Browning]

Good looking deer, hopefully after I practice a bit I'll be able to do as well.

Magnus Snuffers huh? Cool, thanks.

Some of the brand names they give this stuff are kind of funny.

[Kimber1911_06238]

thanks....check out these

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/index/index-display.jsp?id=cat20059&navAction=jump&navCount=1&cmCat=MainCatcat21424&parentType=category&parentId=cat21424

[Kimber1911_06238]

If you're starting out with a longbow or recurce....start around 50 or 55. That's more than enough for deer and hogs. 70 pounds would only stick your arrow into the ground farther after blowing through the ribcage of a deer. Lighter bows are easier to learn on and you can practice more before getting tired.....especially if you have shoulder problems (or don't want to develop shoulder problems)

[First Shirt]

I've used Magnus broadheads for years, two-blade, 125 gr. The last deer I shot with one traveled 11 steps and folded. Complete pass-through, and the arrow traveled a good 20 yards past the deer upon exit. The hogs I've taken with a bow (only a couple, the biggest went about 225 lbs.) were likewise taken cleanly, one at 10 yards, and one at about 15 yards) only traveled a short distance after the shot. I'm pretty sold on them, but any broadhead is only as good as the arrow placement.

JMHO,YMMV,IRDDU

JWB

[buck460XVR]

when I first started hunting with a bow back in '66 these were the norm. Took my first buck with them. They must work cause they still make 'em.

Zwickey Broadheads (http://www.keystonecountrystore.com/Zwickey_Broadheads.html)

[rusty bubbles]

I like Magnus two blades too, and the ones that fly like my field points, are Magnus Stingers, same weight, 125gr
For penetration, tests have found the two blade goes that extra yard

No mention of broadheads is complete without the Bear Razorhead- designed and used by the great Fred Bear - use them with or without the blade insert

Both of these heads are non-wind plane designs, and I have found they fly like darts- meaning you hit what you aim at-- "Arrow placement"

[Soap]

I think you'll be fine with a Wensel, Bear 2 blade, Magnus, or Zwickey. Good shot placement = protein.

[nmlongbow]

The Woodsman's are great as are most of the other cut on contact heads mentioned. I really like the STOS 3 blade 3 - 1 ratio broadheads. The slick tricks and other non cut on contact blades are better for the faster compounds and less than ideal for traditional gear.
Pay attention to your arrows as well, especially spine and weight to get your setup tuned just right.

Dave

[Browning]

Daniel Flory : I think you'll be fine with a Wensel, Bear 2 blade, Magnus, or Zwickey. Good shot placement = protein.

Good, those are the ones that I like.


XD 460 : The Woodsman's are great as are most of the other cut on contact heads mentioned. I really like the STOS 3 blade 3 - 1 ratio broadheads. The slick tricks and other non cut on contact blades are better for the faster compounds and less than ideal for traditional gear.
Pay attention to your arrows as well, especially spine and weight to get your setup tuned just right.

I'm guessing by this that you're talking about the actual diameter of the arrow.

What's a good spine diameter for hunting and what's a good one just for practice?

Or are they basically the same and you just use the same diameter arrow for everything?

[CrawdaddyJim]

Practice with what size you are going to shoot. Grain weight and shaft size.

Maybe these?
http://www.eclipsebroadheads.com/new_page_4.htm

[nmlongbow]

An arrow's spine is mainly the stiffness of the arrow.The heavier draw weight and longer the arrow, the higher spine you need. It's important to get the arrows to fly correctly and transfer all of their energy to the target.
You should shoot the same spined arrows for practice or hunting, just swap out field points for judo's or broadheads.
Also arrow weight is important, especially for hunting. A general rule is 10 grains per lb of draw weight for big game, more for moose or buffalo sized animals.
Check out 3riversarchery.com for arrows and other equipment.

[redneck2]

With the glue on style, it is very difficult to get the heads on straight. If they're even slightly crooked, the arrow will fly like a cork screw. You can't believe how much a broad head will steer an arrow until you see it.

I've got a custom made long bow that I tried to use for a few years with wood arrows. Even with 86# draw it was too slow. Deer would jump the string (actually duck under the arrow). I'd suggest carbon or aluminum. There are ones that have wood grain to look traditional.

Howard Hill was probably the greatest archer that ever lived, and killed hundreds of animals with a broad head that most guys wouldn't even consider using. I wouldn't get too wrapped up in marketing hype. Just get something that's easy to sharpen. You'll figure out real quick why replaceable inserts are so popular.

[Lennyjoe]

I always liked the old Delta Snuffers. They are cut on impact. You can either glue them onto your wood arrows or onto an adaptor for aluminum/carbon arrows.

They look exactly like the first photo you posted.

For hogs I like cut on impact broadheads.

[Kimber1911_06238]

Browning, check out this site.

http://www.tradgang.com

The people on there are as passionate about traditional archery as the people on here are about firearms.

Any info that you need to know will on available. :D

[Browning]

Cool, thanks.

[Flintknapper]

I have been bowhunting (traditional) for almost 40 years now. There are many good "cut on impact" broadheads out there. That is what I recommend.

Learn how to sharpen them, and make sure they are correctly mounted.

I am partial to "Zwickeys" and "Snuffers" but there are other good ones.

Actually, for the last 15 years I've been hunting with flint/agate/obsidian arrowheads that I make. They are devastating on game.

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n92/flintknapper/bowarrow2Small.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n92/flintknapper/sidenotchMedium.jpg

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n92/flintknapper/agatepointMedium.jpg

[nmlongbow]

Nice work Flintknapper,

I only use trad gear but haven't made the next step to stone points.

I'm currently working on my first selfbow, then hopefully making my own broadheads.

[Browning]

Damn, those are nice!

How hard is it to make those and how long do they take to make?

[Flintknapper]

Hi Browning,

It depends on the material and the style point I choose to make.

Remember, this has been a hobby of mine for over 15 yrs., so I can make them faster than a beginner.

A simple hunting point from good flint/chert or obsidian can be done in as little as 30-45 minutes. Tougher materials and different styles/sizes might take me 2 hrs. depending on how I notch it.

Here are a few I've made in the last year:

http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n92/flintknapper/PileofRocks.jpg

[Browning]

Hey guys, there's this one archery site that I saw on the net where you can put on different color fletchings, different target points or broadheads, where you can have your arrows stained or painted, to have it crested in gold or silver leaf (you don't have to order all the options or anything) and then there's a computer program that shows you exactly what it looks like before you order.

Does anyone know what website that is?

I didn't note the web address as I had to get off the net in kind of a hurry and now I'm trying to find it again. I spent more than an hour searching for it today using all different kinds of key words (custom arrows, wood custom arrows, traditional custom arrows, wood arrows etc), but to no avail. I thought that one of you guys might know this site.

[Flintknapper]

Browning,

I remember seeing the "arrow maker" program you are talking about several years ago.

I will search for it. If you find it first, post it here.

Thanks, Flint.

[firesafety3]

As per your broadhead question, I've always had great performance from the Magnus Stingers.

[Browning]

Alright, thanks.