[TCoops]

Howdy. I've been shooting black powder nearly 7 months now and I reckon I'm getting pretty good. I'm the proud owner of that Uberti Dragoon I keep bragging about on here : )

I'm after cleaning tips.

I clean my pistol the hard way. After a typical shoot of 50-100 rounds it's pretty dirty. And the black powder gets everywhere, in the trigger mech and right down into the grips (how it gets in the grip is beyond me). So typically i strip it down to the last screw, and scrub every single part individually. Then dry and oil liberally, reassemble. Let me tell you, this takes 2-3 hours. I have 5 cylinders to clean, so thats 30 nipples and 30 chambers. Admittedly, I 'overclean' it. I love my pistol and hate rust. But I dont wear off the blueing or unduly damage it.

I cant bring myself to just take off the barrel and dunk the parts whole (minus the wood grip that is) in boiling water. Last time I did that, i found watery sludge and minor rust in the trigger mech and areas the water/solvent missed. The only way I know for sure is the hard way.

But I'm looking for shortcuts now. Especially since I'm looking at getting a second Dragoon. Some people say to use kerosene/metholated spirits because it cuts right into the fouling and leaves an alcohol coating which just evaporates afterwards. Some people laugh and say try a sonic bath or something. Funny as it is, i'm tempted to try something like that. To save myself 2-3 hours every week i'd buy a machine to wash it. I've even considered buying a second dish washer for my pistol, and just chucking it in after the shoot! I'm up for any crazy idea at the moment.

Just toss in any ingenious strategies you guys use. I'd really appreciate it!

[mykeal]

After every shooting session:

I remove the grips, barrel, cylinder, loading lever and nipples.

The nipples go in a small jar of bp solvent (currently T/C's No. 13).
The barrel and cylinder go in very hot soapy (dish detergent) water. I run wet, soapy patches through the barrel and each chamber on the cylinder, then rinse the barrel and cylinder in very hot (hot as I can stand it) clear water.

I dry the exterior with a towel and run dry patches through the barrel, loading lever hole, wedge opening and cylinder chambers until they come out as dry as they went in.

I carefully dry the nipple recesses and notches in the back of the cylinder (this is the part that takes the longest) with dry patches and a small screwdriver to wipe down the hard to reach places.

I then remove the nipples from the solvent, dry off the exterior of each with a dry patch and run a pipe cleaner into the top hole. I blow out any remaining solvent, apply anti-sieze to the threads and install the nipples.

I lube the chambers and the base pin hole with Bore Butter then wipe each out with a dry patch to leave a thin film. I do the same with the barrel bore, the wedge opening, the loading lever hole.

Then I use patches soaked with the bp solvent to wipe down the cylinder arbor and wedge opening in the arbor, the recoil shield, the hammer channel in the frame, the hammer itself, paying special attention to the hammer face and any other exterior surface that might get powder or cap residue on it.

I follow the wet patches with dry ones until they stay clean. I then lube the cylinder arbor with bore butter and reassemble the gun.

The above process takes about 15 minutes per gun on average.

Every month or so I do a complete disassembly, soaking the small action parts in bp solvent and scrubbing every surface of the parts and the frame with a soft brush and solvent. I reassemble applying a light gun oil film on all contact surfaces.

The complete disassembly/cleaning/reassembly adds about 30-40 minutes to the task for each gun. Sometimes longer if they are especially dirty.

I've been doing this for over 30 years. It works for me. There are many different materials that can be used; I've been advised to use olive oil or Ballistol as the lubricant/preserative, and one of these days I'll probably try that. Many people certainly swear by it. But, this is what I do, and I've had no problems with rust or fouling build up over many years, so I'm happy with it.

By the way, I usually shoot 777 but also use Goex often as well. 777 seems easier to clean.

[Niner]

I think Mykeal has a pretty good cleaning method. But hot tap water in a bucket with dish soap works as good as boiling water, which you mentioned in the original question, and is a lot easier on the hands. The metal heats up enough and dries quickly after a rinse and my pistols don't rust. However, if you worry about the water not clearing quick enough, put some tin foil on a rack in the oven and put the revolver with the handles off on the tin foil. Put the oven on low heat for about five minutes and use a oven mitt to take the pistol out. It will be dry. Then I wipe mine down with a rag with enough gun oil in it to leave a really light film.

[karlsgunbunker]

1 part each of Murphy's oil soap, isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, Hydrogen Peroxide.

It's hard to beat soap and hot water.

[Kimber1911_06238]

1/3 murphy's oil soap, 1/3 rubbing alcohol, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide.

works wonders for bp and bp substitutes

[windjammer]

I shoot two Ruger Old Armys. Both Stainless. I take off the grips and put them in the dishwasher after my wife goes to bed.

[TexasRifleman]

I do the oven thing, but I let them soak up Bore Butter while they are still hot.

[alsaqr]

Does anyone read articles by Mike Venturine,Hand Gun Editor of Shooting Times magazine and a very dedicated BP shooter? He cleans his blackpowder guns with Windex with vinegar. Several years ago i read an article by Mike and started cleaning my guns with Windex with vinegar-it is the clear Windex.

It takes me about 10 minutes to completely clean and oil my muzzleloading rifles and about 20 minutes for the 1858 Remington revolver. Windex with vinegar very quickly dissolves black powder residue. It also dissloves the residue of all the B/P substitutes.

[zxcvbob]

I shoot two Ruger Old Armys. Both Stainless. I take off the grips and put them in the dishwasher after my wife goes to bed.

I do the same thing with mine (except I put the gun in the dishwasher, not the grips ;) )

[OldWolf]

Do you run the dishwasher without detergent when cleaning those ROA's?

[K.A.T.]

There is Windex with Ammonia,and Windex with Vinegar,one of these is used to remove blueing from a firearm.Which one is it,Vinegar or Ammonia?

[Owens]

Haven't tried it, but sounds interesting: 1/3 Murphy's, 1/43 alcohol, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide mix.

However, I understand the soap, but what effect or benefit does the alcohol and hydrogen peroxide contribute. Just curious.

[Niner]

However, I understand the soap, but what effect or benefit does the alcohol and hydrogen peroxide contribute. Just curious.

If a wood hand finished stock is left on a rifle, or grips left on a pistol.......and this concoction drips on the wood in the process of cleaning..... it could cause finish to be removed from the wood and a lasting mark where the fiinsh was damaged if not wiped off soon after contact. Happened to me the only time I tried this formula.

Just stick to hot water and mild soap would be my advice.

[English Bob]

Haven't tried it, but sounds interesting: 1/3 Murphy's, 1/43 alcohol, 1/3 hydrogen peroxide mix.

However, I understand the soap, but what effect or benefit does the alcohol and hydrogen peroxide contribute. Just curious.



I have used this mix, well similar before for cleaning brass cases after BP use and it works very well.

If I remember correctly, the alcohol helps to blend the two other products together and the hydrogen peroxide forms oxygen which helps lift the fouling off. Never tried cleaning a gun with it, but it worked on brass, it really fizzes and lifts the fouling right off the cases.

:uhoh: As for cleaning your Dragoon quickly, lots of regular shooters I know tend to just clen the barrel and cylinder with either a good BP solvent of hot water and soap, give the frame a wipe over with baby wipes.....yes they do actually work and then they spray a good gun oil into the frame without taking the mech to pieces, they only fully strip the thing down evey six months to a year.

I recently bought a second hand Uberti Remington which the owner had cleaned this way, no rust to be seen anywhere and after stripping it down I was surprised that the ammount of fouling in the trigger mech etc was surprisingly light. :cool:

[Gustav]

Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber is what I use on my firearms it works like magic just remember to thoroughly apply a good oil coating when you are done using the cleaner or solvent.

[Owens]

Thanks for the explanation folks. I have a Pedersoli 1874 45-70 that I'm itching to shoot some 45-70-500 loads. I'll try the 3 way mix on the brass.

[GunTech]

Boiling water and Dawn here, followed by water displacing oil and a wipedown.

[Calibre44]

Put the oven on low heat for about five minutes and use a oven mitt to take the pistol out.

What oven temperature do you use for low heat? as I wouldn’t mind given it a go.

I clean my 51 Navy’s barrel, cylinder and nipples with BP Solvent and boiling hot water after each shoot (approx 50 shots once a week). Very 2 months or so I strip it down for a full clean and oil. The only other thing I do is to sow some cotton thread in a needle and thread it through each nipple to ensure the holes are dry.

[Jorg]

There is Windex with Ammonia,and Windex with Vinegar,one of these is used to remove blueing from a firearm.Which one is it,Vinegar or Ammonia?

Vinegar will remove blueing from a gun, but the quantities of acetic acid in the Windex with Vinegar is pretty small, on the order of 0.25% as I recall.

[mykeal]

What oven temperature do you use for low heat? as I wouldn’t mind given it a go.

150 deg F, 66 deg C, Gasmark 0.1

[4v50 Gary]

Best shortcut I know of for cleaning any guns was the one my father taught me: "Son, clean the guns."

[Never No More]

I use soap and water, just like they have done for 100s of years.

The tirck is do not use petrolium based oils of any kind.

The oils and burnt powder react to each other and mkae sludge.

I only wash my rifle at the end of the years shooting. The rest of the time I use T/C 1000+ products.

Best stuff ever made.

[Navy joe]

I clean with dish soap and water after shooting. That said, I let one sit a month after shooting without cleaning with no rust. Bore butter seasoned bore, Ballistol exterior wipedown and snapping a set of caps through post-firing. I had previously seasoned the chambers by bore buttering then loading and firing.

[Shawnee]

I use the soap/water gig and don't completely disassemble the piece. Have used the oven drying but also follow it up with a hair-blower on "high" and then Ballistol. Have been hesitant on the frequent disassembly/reassembly because it seems a lot of that would take a toll on the piece.
Needless to say my stainless ROA .44 is my favorite of the lot.

[Marlin 45 carbine]

I use a spray bottle of windsheild washer fluid to soak the whole pistol down good, let it sit a few minutes and repeat. then take down for brushing, seems the w/w fluid loosens fouling up well.

[langenc]

I just used some 'simple green' to clean a couple handguns. I had heard about this for some time. I was please with the results.

Spray it in-turn gun/parts over and spray some more. I laid it on a paper towel. Towel can then be used to wipe it up. Toothbrush or brass brush may be needed on some 'tough' stuff.

[K.A.T.]

T Coops,I find the same mess inside my pistols also.I can't imagine not stripping it all the way down after every time out.It takes me two hours to clean mine.After the soap and water bath,then the blow dryer.I then take Q-tips with Lacquer Thinner and clean the inside of the frame and all the internal parts,around the clyinder where the nipples screw in.You can trash out a dozen Q-tips doing this,the soap and water doesn't get all the grime.Load her back up with Borebutter.I don't think I could sleep at night not cleaning the inside of my gun.:what:

[SAKOHUNTER]

Do you run the dishwasher without detergent when cleaning those ROA's?

I use whatever detergent my wife has under the sink plus 1 drop of Dawn dishwashing soap and will set the dishwasher on heated dry. If you use too much Dawn then you will be mopping the kitchen floor.:eek:

My stainless ROA comes out clean as a whistle but occasionally will have a stubborn water spot or two and for that I just use Never-Dull and it will shine right up.

[.44walkersabot]

Go to Wal-Marts and buy a spray can of 'Gun Scrubber' in the sporting goods dept. Remove the grips from the revolver. Further disassembly is not required. Spray the piece good, being careful to blow it into all the cracks and niches. Allow to set for about 5 minutes. Then drop into a pot of boilimg water. Boil for about 10 minutes. Remove from hot water and lay on clean dry cloth. After water has evaporated oil lightly, using your fingers to massage the oil into the warm metal parts while the pores of the metal are still open...Work's for me. I'vd used this method for over 30 years and no problems yet that I know of.

[.44walkersabot]

I'm sorry. I need to add something here. When I said 'further disassembly' is not required I meant detailed stripping. Of course you back your nipples out. When you're making sure the piece is dry, use something like a pipe cleaner to work around the small, tight areas. If you know how and have the time it is still a good idea to detail strip every once in a while if for no other reason than to examine each part (screws, springs,everything) in minute detail, checking for wear and tear. If you don't know how, there are several sites on your computer that will show you the diagrams and schematics of your particular piece. WARNING!! Re-assembly of a blackpowder revolver from full dis-assembly is very time consuming and can be very complicated. If you do not qualify at least as a 'homegrown' gunsmith, (and you must not be or else you wouldn't be looking for cleaning tips) it would be my humble suggestion that you simply remove the grips, the clyinder, the nipples, drop the loading lever and let it hang free, spray all metal parts down with a solvent, boil all metal parts, dry, lighly oil, re-assemble and enjoy..

[bigbadgun]

I have a 1847 Colt Walker repro I clean it with hotwater from the tap and Dawn dishsoap I take it down to the last screw everytime call me crazy but i enjoy doing it. It takes about 2 hrs then while reassembling i use a small aetist paint brush and bore butter everything and when it is all put back togeather and you rack the hammer back and it slides like silk, I get this warm fuzzy feeling all over:)

[JCT]

When you think you're dealing with a mess, think of this: A friend of mine had his Walker loaded from a camping trip, left it for a couple weeks wet from rain. Tried firing it off, but it wouldn't go. He should have waited and got a ball remover, but....
He removed the nipple and boiled the whole gun, powder, wax wads and all. What a mess that makes. I got to help clean it up. Sludge for days, oily, waxy... It was a mess, 6 cylinders with 60 grains powder in them.

[Pancho]

One thing I've always used before drying my guns is rubbing alcohol. I pour it all over the wet parts. It really gets in tight places and alcohol mixes readily with water and speeds drying. Oh, BTW don't put an alcohol soaked gun in the oven it's not needed and the explosion would ruin your day.

[Shell Shucker]

Good lord......... it ain't rocket science! When I clean my Old Army I Field strip it, remove the grips and nipples and proceed to clean it in a sink full of hot soapy (dish soap) water. I rinse it with hot tap water and blow it dry with an air hose. I then spray everything with REM-Oil or similar, blow off the excess, and reassemble. I've never had a problem. It is usually faster than cleaning a smokeless revolver.

[230RN]

A couple of years ago I got a small portable two-gallon compressor which is handy for all kinds of cleaning and drying applications.

I recently cleaned my Uberti 1858 and found the compressed air extraordinarily helpful in blasting crud out of crevices, water off of wet little parts, blowing dust out of corners prior to using the vacuum cleaner, cleaning the floorboard hot water heat fins, and a myriad of other uses which only became apparent after I bought the thing.

The compressor is also good for drying eyeglasses, cleaning my electric razor, and all kinds of things.

Since I am a confirmed bachelor (after two tries) I can do things the way I want, and I have the compressor under my kitchen table. It is half-hung by a good bungee cord from a screw-eye under the table and part of its weight is supported by a thick foam pad under it.

This arrangement quiets the thing down quite a bit.

I once designed a house for myself, and in it I provided for compressed air lines and floor drains in the kitchen and bathrooms, and all 110 Volt outlets were 3 feet above the floor.

Oh, and the garage had a grease pit.

Ah, Nirvana!

[Shell Shucker]

Floor drains and airlines; at true MAN house! I love it!
My last house had a MAN basement. Half of it was "finished" (flooring and paneling). The finished part had a large work bench, a kitchen table, sink, an easy chair, and a TV. The unfinished part had a toilet, shower, and a brass tumbler. Sure miss that basement.........

[230RN]

Oh, and big black left hands painted on the walls over every toilet tank about eyebrow level.

Since I'm right handed.

[.44walkersabot]

That rubbing alcohol sound's like a good idea to me. I know I have used alcohol (lighter fluid to sometimes) to wipe the oil off like part of a barrel for touch up bluing. It damned sure worked for that. I also agree with Shell Shucker that lot's of people make too big of a deal about cleaning a gun. But I will say that if you remove the barrel and all the springs and pins and cams and screws and what all, when it come's time to put it back together you'd better know what you're doing. It just all depend's on how far down you strip it...Okay...

[RockRifle]

Two pages and nobody uses 409?? I use it almost exclusively. It's soap and water in a spray bottle. Cheaper and less complicated than alot of these mixtures, and easy to transport. After my guns are clean the dry, bore butter on the inside and RIG on the outside (blued finish)