[jimrbto]

I am trying to find a mixture/formula that will duplicate the finish on early, 18th/19th century stock finishes for both maple and American (black) walnut.
The finish should have a deep "glow" BUT not be mirror shiny. Don't want something that just sits on top of the wood.
Tung oil thinned (with what) for more penetration? Linseed oil?
What would be the best?
I have seen some original PA rifles and they are real masterpieces.
Thanks
Jim

[mobayjd]

I,ve use tung oil and linseed oil both work well many many coats rubbed with bare hand untill warm! time and effort I haven,t found a"quick" way.
Shoot Safe

[Fisherman_48768]

I use a mixture of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and brown apple cider vingar. First two coats go on hot with a mop, followed by a good rubbing with some 4-0 steel wool when it dries then one coat a day for a week, then one coat a week for a month, then one coat a month for a year then one coat per year. Rub each coat in with bare hand until it is tacky.

This was recipe was given to me years ago by an old gunsmith in Montana.

[arcticap]

Aquafortis is "the original" finish for American longrifles:

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(g3hdf355bupc2yj5ljotarqs))/categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=5&subId=66&styleId=225&partNum=AQUAFORT-2



http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(g3hdf355bupc2yj5ljotarqs))/imgPart/aquafort-2_2.jpg

[Pancho]

try a 50/50 mix of Danish oil and poly. first use straight Danish oil let it really soak in. Let dry and steel wool the finish. Follow this up with at least three coats of 50/50 hand rubbed with 4/0 steel wool between coats.The Danish brings out the grain and the mix protects it like poly but is still repairable like Danish

[4v50 Gary]

What articap says. I'd like to make my own but can't get the nitrate. Chemical suppliers aren't as easy to come by as before.

[jimrbto]

Thanks everyone for your prompt replies! I was on the right track, I was going to use aquafortis to "stain" the wood and then apply a good coating. The coating was my question:
FISHERMAN- - - what ratios of oil/turpentine/vinegar do you use?

PANCHO- - - what do you mean by "poly."?
Again thanks
Jim

[Capt. Willard]

I have heard that aqua fortis finishes turn green or greenish over time..that would be a heartbreaker for me were it to happen to one of my weapons.

[Fisherman_48768]

FISHERMAN- - - what ratios of oil/turpentine/vinegar do you use?
Boiled linseed oil: 1 pint
Turpentine: 1/4 cup
Vinegar: 4 tablespoons, brown apple cider

As I understand this formula the turpentine allows the oil to penetrate the wood and the vinegar hardens the finish. The linseed oil is what fills and builds up the finish.

[BigG]

They probably didn't have much tung oil back in the woods. I would say linseed oil, myself, which is from flax.

[robert garner]

Polyurothane (sp) Liquid plastic used both as paint or varnish even as car paint. can be had in hi-gloss or satin not a recommended"traditional" finish
but hard wearing and looks "good enuff" quick and easy, great on wood floors.
A good finish can be had by oxygenating linseed oil , use an aquarium set up,
this will create a very usable varnish like substnce that will harden in the container , so only oxygenate that which you will soon use, lots of time and experimenting here tho.
The easiest and a variation of the above that has served me well is one part each of linseed oil(not boiled) one part beeswax, and one part of turpentine apply as stated above once a day for a month, once a month for a year, as needed from then on. This formula will remind you of a clear shoe polish that will liquify as you apply,smear on as thin as it will spread then rub in with palm or fingers till it gets very warm, if you do it right you will know from the blisters it will raise, sounds bad but it is worth the effort.
robert

[kartoffel]

Many coats of linseed oil with rubbing to establish the finish. Later, beeswax to maintain the finish.

[4v50 Gary]

BTW, after the stock was stained, the original finish applied was beeswax. Not the stuff you buy that's called beeswax that has a petroleum product additive, but pure beeswax. Researchers at Colonial Williamsburg has found pure beeswax to be the best (and most original). You have to find a supplier for the stuff as most beeswax has the additive.

[jimrbto]

Aquafortis (nitric acid) Turns green after a while...................
I read somewhere a loooooonnnng time ago that this is normal when first applied and that it goes away after the application of high heat and the possibility of using an acid neutralizer. Is that right?
Jim

[4v50 Gary]

Dunno about an acid neutralizer, but in the old days, after the aquafortis was applied, a heated metal rod (red hot, almost yellow) was passed over the stock to dry the aquafortis and to cause it to give the stock a rich color.

[jimmyraythomason]

Use Brownells Pro-Custom finish (an oil/polyurethane blend) allow 12 hours between coats and wet sand with 400/600 grit sand paper and mineral spirits every 6 coats. Do not apply heat but a fan helps speed things up. Finally use boiled linseed oil and rottenstone on a felt pad to buff to the desired sheen. This is a very simplified version of a technique that takes a week or so to actually do. I am assuming that the original poster is familiar with wood sealing and finish application techniques. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5531&title=PRO-CUSTOM+OIL+GUNSTOCK+FINISH