time for a revolver

so, i've decided that i want a revolver. nothing to expensive (roughly in the 400-600 range), nothing too big. i'm leaning towards a .357/.38 special with a 4-6 inch barrel, preferably with a blue or matte finish but that isn't a big deal. i also wouldn't exlude a smaller snub nose from my options. i'm taking all recommendations but here are the few that i've been looking into:

Ruger GP100

Ruger SP101

S&W model 686

Taurus model 66

surprisingly the ranges that i've been to do not have any of those for rent. the last 2 only had a few larger revolvers that i wasn't too interested in. if you all could give your experiences with the above listed i'd be greatly appreciative.

this wheel gun should be able to accompany me when i go camping as well as be a decent hd gun that my gf could handle if it came down to it. any advice, recommendations, or insight would be great. thanks :)

Are you looking at new guns exclusively, or are used guns an option? If new only my leanings are toward the 4" GP or 3" SP from Ruger since I'm opposed to internal lock S&Ws.

If you're open to used guns a Ruger Speed/Service/Security Six with 4" barrel are excellent revolvers, as are any of the 357 Magnum S&W K Frames like the model 19 and model 66. These earlier guns are built on slightly smaller medium frames than their current production counterparts. Many prefer the handling & balance of these older guns to the current ones.

i prefer NIB. not for any other reason than knowing that i have brand new wheel gun in my hands that no one else has touched or probably ever will. in the future i may try out some used if it's out of my price range.

also, i've read a lot about these internal locks on the s&w revolvers. has there ever been a documented incident of it actually causing the gun to malfunction? i was under the impression that it could simply not be used and switched off.

also, i've read a lot about these internal locks on the s&w revolvers. has there ever been a documented incident of it actually causing the gun to malfunction? i was under the impression that it could simply not be used and switched off.
There are a handful of cases of it locking under recoil, albeit mostly in scandium frame AirLite revovers in magnum chamberings. In some of these cases the key wouldn't unlock it and brute force had to be applied. The biggest point of contention most folks have is that its unnecessary and adds a potential point of failure - not a welcome thing on a defensive gun. I'll leave it at that and let you do a search and start another thread if you want more info. I'd prefer that I not turn your revolver recommendation thread into a lock discussion. I ask that my fellow THR members do the same.

Back to the topic at hand.
i prefer NIB. not for any other reason than knowing that i have brand new wheel gun in my hands that no one else has touched or probably ever will.
That's understandable. Now, and this comes from a die hard S&W fan, I honestly think Ruger is making better revolvers than S&W is when current production guns are compared. I prefer both Ruger and S&W over Taurus for much better warranty service & parts availability. If you told me I could only have one revolver for all around use and it had to be something NIB currently produced I'd pick a 3" or 4" barrel GP-100. The utility & versatility of a 3 or 4 inch barrel mid frame .357 Mag revolver is unrivaled. A 3" SP-101 would be my second choice.

Gp100!

yeah, that was the revolver that my eyes have been constantly been drawn back to. additionally, i've not once seen a bad review.

now, in comparison how does the taurus "judge" rank? i know they're not even in the same class, but for practicality's sake. aside from the sheer ugliness of the judge, i like the idea of being able to fire .45 rounds alongside pellets. i like to think of this gun as a pretty versatile tool as well. would you still pick the GP100?

now, in comparison how does the taurus "judge" rank? i know they're not even in the same class, but for practicality's sake. aside from the sheer ugliness of the judge, i like the idea of being able to fire .45 rounds alongside pellets. i like to think of this gun as a pretty versatile tool as well. would you still pick the GP100?
The Judge is cool, and does have some versatility. A coworker has one, and reports that it patterns .410 3 pellet 00 buckshot relatively well. Patterns with smaller shot sizes fall apart quickly outside of a few feet; this is no doubt attributable to the rifled bore and lack of any choke. Of course if you need the .410 buckshot for something, the .45 Colt rounds are likely going to work better for whatever it is you need it for. My conclusion is that it's a nifty woods & snake gun.

I'd still take the GP100. Not only is it a better made revolver, but the wide range of .38 Special and .357 Magnum loadings which are readily available really do make it a versatile gun.

GP100: You'll have something to give your grandchildren when the time comes

3 or 4'' GP100 is the best bet here. 686 is also good. My preference is the GP, and in CA you'll have an easier time finding the GP in your price range. For your needs, I would stick with a medium frame rather than the snubs. Better fit for your criteria.

The Judge is at best a mediocre self defense piece, and is NOT a good outdoors gun. .410 out of a short barrel is damn near useless, and the Judge will not take "Ruger only" .45 Colt loads. A good .357 is far and away a better all around revolver than the Judge.

I have a 3" Ruger GP100 and it is used precisely for the purpose you state. It is not a long range gun. It's just about perfect for the role you state. I felt exactly the same way you do when I bought my first few handguns.

I have nothing against the Smiths. I like them too. I don't have a 686. If I could find a 3" 686 at Bass Pro (special for them), I'd pick up one of those instead of the Ruger simply because I expect they won't last for ever.

Again, 3" revolvers are a great size. The barrel is long enough that you can shoot it comfortably, and it's still small enough to point easily and to carry discretely in the woods.

I'd like to buy a Taurus Judge (44/10) revolver. It would be a fun gun, but not a primary protection piece. Buy the Taurus as a fun gun and perhaps a woods/lake gun for snakes and so forth. Go with the 38/357 first and then go from there.

lots of great info, thanks for chiming in guys. i guess i'll be set with the GP then. hopefully, i'll find one to test fire.

on another note, will this be enough to fend off a bear? the reason i ask is because i had gone camping a few weeks ago and a fairly large brown bear had decided to pay our campsite a visit. i knew that i should've brought my 870 but i hesitated because of the large group of people i was with (i didn't want anyone screwing around with it while i wasn't watching). it just ate our food and wandered off, but it brushed by my tent and gave me quite a scare.

i think i'd feel more at ease (around a large group of people) with a holstered gun that i can keep an eye on at all times, but would a .357 round dent a bear from close range? please know that i would never open fire unless it was attacking, but just to have that peace of mind.

This is a gun forum, where you don't really need to make disclaimers about shooting a bear. If you shoot a brown bear and don't kill him, I doubt you'll "fend (him) off". More likely, you'll p-ss him off. If you absolutely must shoot the thing, use a 44mag minimum. Go for the head shot.

The best bargain is a new S&W 620. It's essentially a half lug L-frame 4" 7-shot 686+. The usual K/L/N-frame lockwork - which breaks in quickly and is easily 'improved', although it is quite good stock. It'll enjoy a long life with SAAMI spec'd .357M's - and much longer with .38 Special +P's, etc. Trouble can be resolved by calling their 800# - you'll get a prepaid overnite label to return it for any needed repairs - gratis. Any round butt K/L frame grip will fit it, too.

A lot of folks don't care for S&W's new (Since '02.) 'internal lock' (IL), but I have a bunch so-equipped, and, while I'd rather they weren't there (Heck, I didn't like paying for external trigger locks! I'm cheap!), they haven't been a problem here.

Before you go buy a GP100 for it's heavier construction, compare the 4" SS GP100 to a 4" 686... that massive shroud probably accounts for the mass difference - a whole ounce! And... the Ruger is cast SS - the S&W is forged and heat treated. But, if running overloaded .357 Magnums is your intent, and you can stand the less smooth lockwork, the GP100 is also a fine choice... just not mine. YMMV.

Stainz

Make sure you try out a GP100 before you buy. I wanted one before I played with one. The cylinder release, IMO, is horrid and really affects quick reloads.

I personally prefer the Ruger cylinder release system over the S&W, but you have to try it and see.

The Ruger, Smith, & Colt are all just fine, just different.

I think the last 2 posts bring up good points: The best revolver is the one that feels best in your hand. Even if you can't rent one, pick up an example of each. Try the trigger & cylinder release. How's the balance? How 'bout the sights? etc. Don't get caught up in the Ruger vs S&W strength thing. IMO, it's minutae, compared to the above issues. Both are plenty strong enough.

Bears? You'd probably be best served with pepper spray. Do a search here, and you'll find a ton of threads on bear protection. The # of "What Caliber for Bear?" threads probably approaches the number of total "9mm vs .45acp" threads.

but would a .357 round dent a bear from close range?

Plenty for black, not my first choice for brown. In any case, you want a hardcast bullet, as heavy as possible. DoubleTap has both 180 and 200 grain hardcast loads. Only BuffaloBore is as hot, but they cost quite a bit more.

http://www.doubletapammo.com/php/catalog/index.php

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/callgood/targets/Img_15_5.jpg

Here is one of my 25 cent targets (8.5x11 sheet with a bull the size of a quarter) from 15 yards standing. 15.5 grains of H110, 158 grain Oregon Trail Laser Cast LSWC, Fed 150 primer (which I can't find at the moment) and Starline brass.

Ruger Gp100, 4" barrel. Probably the fourth time I shot it, IIRC. Sweet revolver. No buyer's remorse here.

Ruger: GP100, Security Six (if you can find one), if semi-snubs are an option it's tough to beat a SP101 w/3.06" barrel.

S&W: 686, 19, honestly...too many good choices to list.

Taurus: I'll pass

First thing,

DUMP the Taurus.
Your other choices are fine.

i like ruger its they make nice guns if i were you i would go with the ruger gp100 hears a line up of gun you should read
http://www.shootingtimes.com/handgun_reviews/st_0301_defense/

Ruger GP100
or
Ruger SP101
or
S&W model 686
All are great guns.

I'd Pass on the Taurus too

S&W 686 for big gun fun and a 642 for carry....

S&W 686 for big gun fun and a 642 for carry....

I CAN'T BELIEVE that posts; 19, 20 & 22 all AGREED on something. Is that supposed to happen around here?!? :evil:

so i stopped by gun world to check out a few of the above listed wheel guns. i fiddled with a 4" 686. it felt good and aimed naturally but the cylinder release was a little awkward for me. it also felt fairly light in my hands, which is saying a lot since i'm not exactly a hulk.

i moved on to the GP100. i could instantly feel the weight difference. i'm not all too fond about the construction of the two guns, but this one felt sturdier to me. this one aimed pretty well for me also. the cylinder release was much easier on this one. i loved the way it was weighted.

after a while of debating with myself and asking the worker for his advice, he pretty much said that both guns were as good as it gets. since i was so stumped on which to purchase i decided to go based on price... i hadn't even noticed that the 4" 686 was $750 while a blue (what i prefer) GP was only $580.

At any rate, I took my handgun safety test and got a 100%. I now own a GP and will be going to pick it up on 11/6. One major gripe I do have is that the stock grips are hideous. Are there any custom grips that some of you guys can recommend?

Congratulations on your safety test score, and your first revolver Hyphen. The GP100 is a great revolver.

Can you elaborate on why you think the stock grips on the GP100 are "hideous"? Do you mean looks, grip size, feel?


If it's looks, you can replace the black plastic inserts with all sorts of wood inserts. Try Lett or others.
If the grip is too long, you can replace it with a rubber grips from a 3" fixed-sight (http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=2995594&postcount=5)GP100,
If it's feel, my used GP100 came with nice Hogue (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=231159) rubber grips, but I found the 3" GP100 grips fit my hand better...


Good luck, and let us know what you think after you get it to the range.

Ruger GP100 (4") or the smaller SP101.

I have both; for daily carry I opt for the SP (2"). I am awaiting a holster from Simply Rugged for the GP to use in the desert (I already have one of Jim's holsters for the SP).

Both guns are dead reliable and fun to shoot.

Good luck...

The grips are, in my opinion, ugly. They were also a bit too long, if there were finger grooves it probably wouldn't fit my skinny fingers. I plan on changing them for looks alone and will probably opt for wooden grips.

These grips look nice but I don't know if it will feel right with those grooves.

http://www.gunaccessories.com/ExcaliburWoodGrips/ruger/xrgp100.jpg


The hogues look nice but again, not sure how well they will work with my skinny fingers.

For nice looking wood, you might check out:

Eagle (http://www.eaglegrips.com/styles.htm)Grips

Hogue (http://www.hogueinc.com/getgrip/merchant.ihtml?id=60&step=2) or

Ajax

(http://www.ajaxgrips.com/ajax/ajax)Grip fit and feel is such a personal thing that you'll never know how they'll work until you're actually holding them in your hand. Unfortunately, many of us have a box full of grips that we've tried...but haven't liked. And with fine wood grips, the costs can add up quickly. :(

If you belong to a club or range, maybe ask around to see if anyone has after-market grips on their GP100 (or 686) that you could "test drive".

awesome sites. i'm going to spend some time browsing those. thanks for the help. i'll have to see how well these stock grips work at the range and will go from there.

Congrats on selecting the GP100. :)

I will be switching to a 3" fixed sight GP100 after the New Year. Right now I carry a S&W 22-4 Thunder Ranch Revolver in 45 ACP. One of the major reasons I am switching is because the lock on this gun failed during the first fifty rounds of firing.

S&W of course denied a lock "problem", but did repair the thing and send it back to me. It has since fired over 1,000 rounds with no problems. If I want a lock on my guns I will put them in the safe, not turn a bloody key in the gun.

For Black Bear my minimum caliber is a 44 Mag, for Browns it's a 454 or a 500. I like the fact that Rugers don't currently have the "lock" and that they are hell for stout.

As far as aftermarket stocks, check out Badger. I'm going to have a set put on my GP100, as well as some custom work by Gemini Customs. Everything I've seen that Marc at Gemini does has been fantastic. :D If you do have to use a 357 Mag for bear I would look for a hard cast bullet. Check out Buffalo Bore.

Biker

They are expensive but Nill (http://nill-griffe.de/cms_usa/index.php?land_id=2&guntyp=1&manufacturer=39&id_navigation=4) has beautiful stocks for your new Ruger GP100. They are a work of art IMO.

On the other end of the price spectrum there is Kelly Arms (http://www.kelleyarms.com/rugda.htm) They make quality stocks for a very low price.

Craig Spegel and Kim Ahrends stocks are also very beautiful and extremely high quality but I think they only make grips for S&W revolvers.

Good luck finding something you like...

Did you shop other gunstores? Unless CA stores are all the same, price wise, you should have gotten better prices. The MSRP for the blued 4" GP100, GP-141, is $575, while the 6-shot 686 (in SS), SKU #164222, has an MSRP of $766. The SS GP100, KGP141, has an MSRP of $635. S&W lists their 6-shot's weight as 40 oz - the 686+ 7-shot, SKU #164194, is missing metal from another chamber in it's cylinder, so it weighs 38.5 oz. The 4" GP100 weighs 41 oz. The 620 I mentioned, #164401, weighs 37.9 oz and has an MSRP of $751. Both brands' prices may have increased since the early spring, when these prices were recorded ('07 Catalogs).

You will likely be quite content with the GP100. It's grip stud, the part of the frame that the grips slide up on, is the same size as the Super Redhawk's stud, so they can take the same grips (They also share the same lockwork.). Get to your dealer - or another one, if need be, and test the feel of the Super Redhawk 'Alaskan' in any caliber. If you like it's shorter grip and finger grooves, pick up the phone and call Ruger to order that grip - give them your model number to insure that they fit, but I don't believe they have shortened the grip stud on the Alaskans, so they should fit perfectly. You can also get different inserts for the original grip - even wood. As this is your first revolver - and you will likely 'test' it with some real .357 Magnums, you'll be happier with the recoil absorption of rubber grips - wood 'enhances' the recoil experience. Besides, it's better to spend the bucks saved on ammo and range rental... and get some brass/bronze separate bore and chamber brushes to clean with. Have fun, too!

Stainz

S&W 686 for big gun fun and a 642 for carry....I second that.

IMO, there is no finer .357 mag revolver than a SW 686.

A 642 is on my right side now,
and will be again tomorrow.

I feel that there is no better DA .357 magnum currently on the market than the GP100.

I don't get caught up in the strength differences between the 686 and the GP100, because as far as I'm concerned, there is no comaprison. I like 686s, but I would never buy a new one because I've read too many complaints on different boards about Smith and Wesson timing issues. I've seen two 686 complaints on this board in the last month. Both people said that they didn't believe that Revolvers were more reliable than their semi automatics because of all of the timing issues that they've had with their 686s. On the other hand, I haven't run across too many complaints about GP100s. As a matter of fact, I've never seen a GP100 timing complaint, ever.

The solid frame, triple locking cylinder, modular design all contribute to make the GP100 a more solid, and durable platform than the Smiths. Smith and Wesson started to adopt their own knock-off versions of the Ruger triple locking cylinder and Ruger's ejector rod design in their Smith and Wesson 500. If these two design features don't make a difference in durability and reliability, then why is Smith and Wesson copying Ruger on their most powerful handgun? The lockwork of a revolver is just as important as the frame when it comes down to reliability.

if you want to spent 500 or so get a GP 100 600 i'd get a S&W 686. I love my GP-100. If you want to save some cash a Taurus Tracker is a good gun too

Congrats. Happy Shooting