[LubeckTech]

Has anyone ever parkerized or used any type of spray on finish on a revolver? They are common on semi-autos but I've not heard much about using the process on a wheelgun.

[rcmodel]

It (park finish) was used extensivly on GI issue Colt & S&W revolvers during WWI and WWII.

Shake & Bake paint is also quite commenly used on revolvers nowdays.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/rcmodel/KTOG/1224.gif
rcmodel

[Old Fuff]

Parkerizing (a phosphate coating sold by the Parker Chemical Co.) was used during the Second World War and thereafter, but not during the First World War. That said, Colt used a blue that looked flat and black on 1911 pistols that could be mistaken for Parkerizing during part of 1918. After the 2nd War, Colt Parkerized some commercial revolvers as less expensive alternatives to their blued ones.

I can't think of any good reason that a carbon steel revolver (or any other firearm) intended to be used for utilitarian purposes shouldn't be Parkerized. It worked fine for Uncle Sam.

[PzGren]

Before the spray on finish is applied, it is recommendable to phosphate the gun anyway. This way the coating stays on a whole lot better.

The biggest hurdle in phosphating for the hobby gunsmith is the availability of a sandblasting cabinet, the process is quite simple and Midway sells the solution for around $7.

[LubeckTech]

I never heard the term phosphating before but I would guess from the context it is some type of bead blasting process for cleaning and preparing the metal surface. Would Harbor Frieght have a relativly inexpensive cabnet which would work?

[rcmodel]

I never heard the term phosphate before but I would guess from the context it is some type of bead blasting process for cleaning and preparing the metal surface.
Bead blasting is just another form of sand-blasting used to remove all the old finish and any rust. It is done before the phosphate Parkerizing to give it a clean rough surface to adhere to.

Parkerizing is either a Manganese Phosphate (dull gray color - and the original U.S. Military type finish), or zinc phosphate (charcoal-gray color ) crystalline structured coating that actually interacts with the steel surface it is applied to. Additionally, the zinc phosphate type can be pre-treated to produce a true "black" finish.

Both types require a sand or bead blast finish on the steel before application to insure good adhesion and an even coating. Either type also etches into the steel as it is applied, and should not be used on critical surfaces, such as the bores of barrels & chambers for instance.

It is applied in a high temperature liquid "bath" much like hot bluing, although the propriety chemical used is a one part pre-mixed solution unlike commercial bluing salts.

In either case, the Parkerized surface's porous structure lets it soak up oil to help prevent rust. It is believed that the gray-green color commonly seen on older U.S. military weapons is more the result of aging and dried oils, dirt, and GI bore cleaner in the pores of the Parkerizing then a true attempt to get a green finish to start with.

In any case the phosphate finish is tough, wears well, and if properly treated with a good rust preventative oil or grease occasionally, highly rust resistant.

If you are only going to do a gun or a few guns, you don't need a sand-blast cabinet. You can get a small sand-blast gun for under $20 at Harbor Freight, and just do the blasting outside in the yard. Unless you have to stop the dust & recover the media, a cabinet is not required at all. The fine white sand sold for ashtray use works great for a blasting media.

http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/rcmodel/KTOG/1224.gif
rcmodel

[PzGren]

I never heard the term phosphating before

Parkerizing is more or less a protected name, the process is called phosphating

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerize

[rbernie]

Has anyone used a spray on finish (a la Duracoat) on a parkerized revolver? I've always wondered how the cylinder's finish would hold up to the drag of the bolt....

[Browning]

I had a S&W "Victory" Model .38 Special's that I had redone that had a good portion of the finish rubbed off, but I didn't do it myself. It came out looking kind of like this, except it was a little thicker and a little more grey.

http://www.coolgunsite.com/pistols/U.S.%20N6.jpg

Brownells has those kits that are supposed to work pretty well.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1106&title=ZINC+PHOSPHATE+PARKERIZING

They also have these.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1106&title=ZINC+PHOSPHATE+PARKERIZING

[Rex B]

My wife's colt Agent ca. 1972 is parkerized.