[Pancho]

I've been making my own roundball bullets for over forty years and due to the fact that I've only recently started running maxie and minie balls I've found that I'm having a problem casting consistent size rounds. Approximately half that I make are too big and hard to start. What bad habits have I learned? I use a Lee production pot and of course I preheat the mold. I use Lee aluminum molds and that might be the problem. I know that steel molds are better but they cost a lot more than the Lee molds.

[armoredman]

I have no difficulty with Lee molds,used right. I have only been casting for a year, and I do it infrequently, but I used a Lee Tumble Lube mold just two hours ago to make 125, 125gr LRN .360, wheel weight made. Are you water dropping? If they're too hard, try towel dropping, and see if the mold is completely lined up if the cast waaay oversize. I like my oversize mold, because I can use the product for 9mm and 38, but I can see where an oversize round ball would be a problem.
Have you asked over at castboolits.com? Those guys are awesome, answered all my questions, and really got me set up in this new hobby.

[Pancho]

round balls have never been a problem because the patch is very forgiving. It's the minie and maxie balls that really show up the problem. Thanks for the 'castboolits.com' I've got to give them a look.

[Pancho]

I tried castboolits and they were no help. I thought I'd get a lot more response with this thread.

[Redd Flynt]

Yo Pancho;

I don't know if you provided enough info to really identify the problem.

If I understand the situation correctly, your bullets drop from the mould with a variation in diameter. Two things you may wish to examine. Weigh the bullets and note the variation and use a micrometer to determine the diameter.

I have over 50 moulds and have been casting since the 50's. The Lee moulds I have all work quite well. I will say that I like iron or bronze better but for the price, Lee does a very good job.

When I can watch another person casting, I can generally spot the problem right off. That's tough to do via internet.

Most of the time temperature is the problem, not enough of it. Lead needs to be well above its melting point to fill out the mould properly. The other very important consideration is the alloy. Pure, 100% lead will NOT cast a good bullet. It must have a very small amount of tin. Not so much that the tin hardens the bullet to any degree but probably on the order of just one percent or less.

Do some experimenting.

Regards, Redd

[Pancho]

Redd, I thought that for muzzleloading 100% lead was the 11th commandment. Your tin idea intrigues me. What does the tin/lead alloy do that lead doesn't? Where do you get the tin? I'm going to have to try it. Do you know what the ideal temperature is for casting lead? Too cold and you can't fill the mold but what happens if it's too hot?

[Chawbaccer]

You can use some bar solder to get your tin. When I cast I don't worry about preheating the mold. I just start casting until I start getting good bullets, don't take long with Lee molds. Just pase yourself to maintain a good heat range.

[Zeke/PA]

The largest bullet that I cast is a .50 cal 370 grain Maxi ball for my T.C. Hawkin.
I use pure lead and Lyman mold with no problem.
Most casting problems are temperature related.
When using a bottom pour furnace, it helps to keep the pot full of molten lead.
The "weight/pressure" will actually help to fill the mold better.
Some fellow shooters who cast bigger stuff like .58cal Minis use the 1%tin idea with good results.
Zeke

[Wildfire]

I agree with these guys a little tin will not make them too hard. The tin helps make the metal lay down better. The heat range is more important. And the rate of pour. As a rule they should be pure lead. But 1 % tin more then likely wont be noticed with a hardness tester. I run my lead at around 700 degrees.
Too cold and you wont get full cast. Too hot may expand your aluminum molds. Just right is just right. Are you fluxing the metal?
When the temp, is too hot they will look fuzzy. too cold they will have wrinkles. Just right thye almost shine or look real clean.
Fluxing the metal will help, skim all of the dross(save it in an old coffee can, then give it to someone else to deal with) the top of the pot should look clean and shinny. Then start casting. I do warm up the molds though. Drop on a soft towel not water.
Never run thru a sizer, this work hardens the sides.

[Pancho]

Good information Wildfire. I do use a flux nothing to fancy just beeswax. I usually drop my rounds on a damp rag. Now all I need is a 700 degree thermometer. As for sizers I've never found them in 50 or 58 cal. Does 100% lead work harden? Copper does, Aluminum does I didn't know lead did.

[Redd Flynt]

Pancho;

I don't know what it is about the tin but it works. I buy cable sheathing for my "pure lead" and sometimes it will cast OK as is but some batches require the addition of a small amount of tin.

As for temperature, crank up the pot. Good bullets will start to form "whiskers" as the lead runs into the air vents. The bullet may also get a frosty appearance. Frosting and whiskers are a bit odd looking at first but cause no harm.

The extra heat when casting will reduce the diameter of the bullet due to shrinking. You may have to size them first. The important thing is to get a good consistent bullet dropping from the mould.

Redd

[Pancho]

Redd, you mentioned sizing. Do you know of a source for 50 and 58 caliber? sizing swages?

[Redd Flynt]

Hey Pancho;

I have a Lyman .58 sizer so I'd expect they still have them. The .50 is available in several diameters. Try casting some good bullets before you sink a lot of money in size dies though. If you increase the lead temp the bullets will shrink more and may be OK.

Redd

[Pancho]

I've got a case of body solder coming from a retired body man. I can't beat the cost at free. I ran a bunch of pure lead 50 cal. Lee REAL maxie balls but haven't had the time to mic them with Thanksgiving and all. Leaving on Sunday for deer camp so after that I'll see if I ran junk or not. I cranked up the heat on my production pot as Zeke suggested too.

[Wildfire]

Best I know, Muzzle loaders should fire as cast bullets and not sized bullets.
They will shrink some, but when you see the frosting this a sign of high temp. The best look should be very close to a shinny look. The tin will help make the pure lead more castable. If that is a word. When casting magnum cast bullets , too much tin will turn the mix softer. But all the books say muzzle loaders need as cast bullets. If they are the wrong size the mold is what gets changed. The reason for this is harder bullets will not expand enough to create a good gas seal when being pushed down the barrel and cause's barrel wear and errosion. Usually accuracy will suffer also. A good Chronograph will show you that difference. And Yes pure lead can be work hardened ...
It is just the surface but that is the part we are dealing with. The bearing surface. Fresh cast bullets are softer then older ones also. Just how much pure lead hardens with age I'm not sure. But at around 23 days magnum cast bullets turn hard. Just something that happens. Before that 23 days they are called green bullets.:)