Problems with steel guide rod: GLOCK


November 29, 2007, 03:16 PM
I recently picked up a stainless steel guide rod and spring assembly from "Glockstore" (made by Glockmeister) for my G26. So I am wondering, has anyone had any problems with this product or by using steel guide rods in general?

I know that many recommend against steel rods for little Kel-Tec p32's as they can accelerate wear on the slide hole, the seating notch for the back of the rod in the lower frame, and the tip of the barrel which strikes the rod.

If you have been using a steel rod in your Glock for a significant amount of time, will you please share your experience? Pros and Cons.


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November 29, 2007, 03:24 PM
And why did you purchase a steel recoil rod assembly for your G26?

November 29, 2007, 03:36 PM
And why did you purchase a steel recoil rod assembly for your G26?

To avoid this. I hear that it happens from time to time. To add a touch of weight to the muzzle.

I stripped the gun to take a look at the firing pin, then relized the guide rod had the front tip broken clean off. The little round front part that held it into place was missing.

November 29, 2007, 06:49 PM
According to the link, the shooter was using +P ammo:
Remington +P+ 115gr JHP

Therefore higher BANG!

November 29, 2007, 07:09 PM
Just trust Glock and you'll have a more reliable pistol, a more durable pistol. Leave it alone, they know what they are doing. They do not build guns to fail. No matter what anyone tells you, put your confidence in the builder. Glock will tell you if theres something wrong with your pistol that needs replacing. Then they will do it free.

November 29, 2007, 07:17 PM
I wouldn't drink anyone's kool-aid so deeply that I'm going to rely on them to tell me when there's a problem with my firearm.

November 30, 2007, 01:48 AM
Many people swap out the guide rod/recoil spring for a stainless or tungsten aftermarket model.

Captured or non-captured, aftermarket units let you experiment with spring weights on the same rod, as well. This is part of the fine tuning process for many competitive shooters.

I use a stainless guide rod and 22 lb. spring on my G21 when shooting 10 mm with a KKM Conversion Barrel. I do this to offset the slightly lighter slide on the G21, and to absorb excess recoil from the hot Double Taploads I like to shoot. The set up is reliable with most 10 mm ammos.

One Check: With a bright light, loook between the dust cover and slide bottom, and manually draw back the slide all the way. The spring coils, flat or round, should not fully compress before the slide is fully retracted. Some springs won't fully compress at all. If the coils compress before the slide is all the way back, your pistol is needlessly taking a pounding.


Robert Hairless
November 30, 2007, 02:05 AM
I installed the Glockmeister recoil assembly in my Glock 27 a few years ago after the factory assembly broke during a range session. In my range sessions I use only Winchester white box ammunition except for periodic practice with Winchest SXT LE ammunition.

The Glockmeister part has worked well for me in that pistol for several thousand rounds since then. I'll keep it.

Glock did send me a replacement factory part.

The Lone Haranguer
November 30, 2007, 07:59 AM
If the standard guide rod ever breaks in mine, I might try one.

I would not worry about a steel guide rod causing wear on the pistol. The Glock is in a little different league than the Kel-Tec. ;)

December 3, 2007, 12:29 AM
According to the link, the shooter was using +P ammo

This is true but it is not a viable excuse if that's what you are going at. The Glock is designed for +P. Using it should not be a problem. Also, with such a short barrel in the G26, it is a good idea to use +P to ensure proper velocity/expansion.

My main concern for posting the thread was more in the realm of... has your Glock's reliability suffered by using a steel rod? Particularly, the one mentioned above.

Robert Hairless
December 4, 2007, 01:48 AM
Perhaps I should have mentioned that I also put a Glockmeister recoil assembly (which is steel) in my Glock 26 and that it works reliably too.

I shoot these guns a lot.

December 4, 2007, 02:11 AM
Because I'm really anal that way, I put aside a couple of stainless captured spring units for both my Glock 17 and my Glock 21...

And I continue to shoot the pistols with their factory springs and plastic guide rods...

But I sleep better knowing that I have stainless replacements if needed...

Again, I have them, if needed...



December 4, 2007, 06:11 AM
Uncle Gaston designed it correctly adding anything other than night sights just mucks up a perfectly reliable pistol.

December 4, 2007, 08:16 AM
I think we missed something here.....

Your getting your inital information from a site that is called:

(Game Gossip)

Am I the only one suspecting a mall ninjas at work - with his +p+++ super 7 slick purple eagle amunition?

KBintheSLC - I would think the information at Game Gossip to be less than accurate when it comes to fire arms, take any information you read there at your own risk.

Or should I say it this way:

kB1N+hE5LC - 1 w0UlD THINk THE iNfORm@+10n @+ G@m3 go55Ip tO B3 L35$ +HAN @CcUr4Te WHEn I+ C0ME$ To PhirE @Rm5, TAk3 4Ny 1nF0rM@t1ON j00 R3@D tH3R3 4t j00R 0Wnzor rI$K.

December 4, 2007, 12:38 PM
For self defense, I prefer stock Glocks.. If it ain't broke, why fix it?

December 4, 2007, 01:22 PM
The Glocks should be run with stock parts.They won't fail(rarely) just the way they come out of the box.The only thing that may need changing are the sights and even this is not entirely necessary unless you want night sights.

December 4, 2007, 05:44 PM
I have a stainless guide rod assembly and heavier (20#) spring in my G33 because I feel that the stock assembly is under-sprung at 17# for the 357SIG cartridge.

December 4, 2007, 10:19 PM
Tungsten, captured guide rod and 22 pound recoil spring in a G23, here. If you ask me, increased +4 lb. recoil springs should come standard in all .40s that are built on 9mm frames. I'm not going to fire even a single round more through my Kahr MK40 until I've saved up for a steel guide rod and Wolff 24.5 pound recoil springs for it.

No problems with the tungsten guide rod. And for some inexplicable reason, I can no longer limp-wrist the gun when trying to induce a malfunction. You'd think a heavier spring would have the opposite effect, but no. I could still get limp-wrist malfunctions with the stock 18 pound spring on the tungsten rod, so it's not the extra ounce.

Some people claim that an aftermarket guide rod will eliminate the squeaking when you rack the slide, but this is not the case in my experience. I don't mind the squeak, though.

Zak Smith
December 5, 2007, 12:47 AM
Keep it stock.

December 5, 2007, 11:24 AM
I tried a stainless steel guide rod in my Glock 34.
It dramatically changed point of impact/point of aim.

I now stick with factory guide rod/spring assemblies and replace them every three thousand rounds.

December 5, 2007, 01:59 PM
I wouldn't reccomend replacing the sub-compact models with the funky dual recoil spring setup as they generally work 100% reliably out of the box...which is pretty good for a sub-compact so why mess with it?

Now on the 17/22 19/23 and 21 's I've had I ALWAYS replace the guidrod with a wolf one piece steel guidrod. Never use any recoil sporing rod that screws together or at the end or anything like that. Shoot it enough and it will eventually fail and a gun goes down. You can usually go up one notch in spring tention as well. Especially the G19/23 and 17/22 models. The G21 I actually found stock spring tention is best and going up to wolfs heavier spring can cause some issues with hotter ammo feeding relably. (A + power magspring helps with this issue as well if it pops up from what I've heard but they are pretty stout from the factory so I don't do that. In the 9mm if you shoot mostly 124 NATO ammo and +P deffensive ammo you really should go up a notch. You can always order the wolf springpack and play with all the weights if you's possible to come up with some really light loads with a lighter spring that can be fun. Generally staying stock or going up on step is the best choice. Stick with wolf springs and guidrods...if anyone else makes a good solid one piece steel guidrod for the Glocks I don't know of it...I'd be surprised if somebody else doesn't though. They have all the above at midwayusa :) Then again a spare factory setup rod spring and all is less than $10 usually IIRC

December 5, 2007, 02:03 PM
What happened to Glock Perfection?

If Gaston wanted you to have a steel guide rod, he would have given you a Tenifer finished one.

December 5, 2007, 02:53 PM
I had bought one for my 23 & 21 and really never found a decernable difference :rolleyes: So, I haven't bought one for my 19 :D

Seven For Sure
December 5, 2007, 03:19 PM
I've seen the part of the inner rod from Wolff break also. The part that looks like the head of a nail. It snapped in half so it looks like this: D. The one piece rods for the larger GLOCKS have much thicker heads, I don't think it could happen.

December 5, 2007, 06:31 PM
They do not build guns to fail. No matter what anyone tells you, put your confidence in the builder. Glock will tell you if theres something wrong with your pistol that needs replacing.

I agree that confidence in the manufacturer is important, but I am also perfectly capable of figuring out when something needs replaced. With that being said, for all the crap thats flung around about Glocks, they sure do seem to work good, so why mess with it?

December 5, 2007, 07:31 PM
I'm not a Glock kool-aid drinker at all, but after 5 million glock pistols manufactured, I think that they are pretty sure of the polymer guide rod design.

I've heard and seen enough glock parts failures to know that it is no more of an "uberweapon" than any other pistol, but I have never heard of any guide rod failings.

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