I have removed the cylinder,crane,ejector rod and spring from my S&W 686 for cleaning. I removed alot of crud from the parts and now ready to reassemble. I am looking for any words of wisdom on what type and how much lubrication I should use on the these parts before they go back together.
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December 1, 2007, 04:19 PM
Hope you didn't completely dissemble the cylinder, ejector rod, and spring!
If you did, you now have a bigger problem then oiling it.
They are not supposed to be taken apart for cleaning.
Anyway, the best way I know to clean these things is just pull the crane & remove the cylinder assembly, then blast them out with auto brake cleaner while working the ejector rod in & out.
Then dry with compressed air the same way.
Then re-lube with spray Rem-Oil or other light oil.
If you un-screwed the ejector rod, you will need to throughly clean & degrease the threads, then reassemble with a drop of blue Lock-Tight.
You won't get it tight enough to stay together without the proper tool, or messing it up with pliers.
Amen on the ejector rod; there is no need to remove that for cleaning.
As to lubrication, before replacing the crane, put one drop of oil on the cylinder arbor and one drop on the bottom crane arbor. Once the gun is together, cock the hammer. Put 3-4 drops of oil down in front of the hammer, and one drop on either side. Then put 2-3 drops in front of the trigger.
Push back the ejector rod and put one drop on the ejector shaft. Put 1 or 2 drops on the ratchet.
That should be all that is needed for proper functioning and lubrication.
December 1, 2007, 07:07 PM
I actually did remove the ejector rod and messed up then knurling. There is a gun parts store almost within walking distance from my house and I purchased a new one for $10. I have blue lock tight so that is not a problem. Is removing the ejector rod a issue because it is difficult to put back tight? I thought I did a good thing as there was alot off crud/gunk in the whole assembly.
December 2, 2007, 04:50 AM
You can clean the crud out with an aerosol blaster or squirt solvent in it and blast it with compressed air. No need to disassemble it. I hope that $10 ejector rod is already fitted to your specific revolver, or you're about to learn a whole lot more about that 686 than you bargained for!
December 2, 2007, 12:17 PM
Is removing the ejector rod a issue because it is difficult to put back tight?Yes!
It has very specific torque requirements that keep it from unscrewing, but doesn't twist it off when tightening it. It is a factory assembly.
It is not intended to be an owner serviced part.
Assemble the new rod and test fit to make sure it is going to rotate correctly, not bind up at the front latch, and works freely to eject.
Lacking the proper clamping tool to tighten it, I'd suggest you mash a lead bullet or wheel weight flat on an anvil or something to make a lead sheet about 3/32" thick.
Wrap that around the new rod, and after one small drop of Blue Lock-Tight is applied, use the lead to protect the knurling on the rod while you tighten it with pliers.