[scrat]

Ok with my new cva 209 buckhorn on the way. i am at a lost on load data. Its for sure not like smokeless powder. There a ton of loads available. Where can i get some usable load data.

[Mark whiz]

I know Hodgdon has quite a bit of load data on their website for both their Pyrodex and 777 powders.

I did quite a bit of load testing with my Knight a couple years ago, once I get home tonight I can send that to you.

Until then, I can pass on a few observations I've made with my Knight:
1. Don't get carried away with hyper-velocities and/or ultralight bullets - they will not give you the accuracy you should expect. 150gr of powder is just overkill and 150gr bullets just can't be expected to stabilze out of these type rifles.

2. I've switched to the 777 loose powders as they have worked best for me. It is relatively easy to clean (as long as you keep your loads around 100grs), consistent, and powerful.

3. If you shoot saboted bullets, I'd suggest bullets in the 300 to 350gr range. That's heavier than most you'll be seeing commonly in the stores, but they stabilze well, are very accurate, and knock the stuffing out of game.

4. Here are the basic loads I start out with:
300gr sabot with 80gr 2fg 777 powder
350gr sabot with 90gr 3fg 777 powder
400gr sabot with 100gr 3fg 777 powder.

These all give me a muzzle velocity around 1500fps and a point of impact within an inch of each other.

5. If you ever try the Powerbelt bullets you never want to use 3fg 777 and you want to keep your powder charges a little less than the above recommendations. Powerbelts just don't like to be pushed too fast.

6. As far as bullet performance goes, the sabots made by Precision Rifle in Canada are top notch..... extremely accurate and very deadly. Hornady's SSTs in the 300gr model are also very accurate (I've yet to take game with them though).

Here is a link to some of my targets with these loads and bullets:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/66414501RJKYAr

[Pancho]

Whiz has got it about right with the powder charges. The manufacturers have really screwed up the newbies minds with 150 grain magnum charges. As far as I'm concerned this is just a pissing match.
Some things to consider when working up a powder charge:
Are you going to hunt or range shoot?
What is the effective range where you hunt? In Southeastern Ohio because of undergrowth and rough terrain 50 yards is what I would call an effective range. You also must consider your own limitations. When you only have one shot you don't do "Hail Mary's".
When you've determined your effective range use it as the baseline to work up your load.
You work "up" a load not "down" a load. Meaning you should not start at 150 grains and work down; you should start at say 70 grains and work up.
Don't change more than one variable at a time. You will get a confused.
With all of the variables available with different sabots, projectiles and powders stay with what is provided with the starter kit you get with the gun and only change the powder charge. This will generally get you grouped enough to go hunting. There will be plenty enough time off season to try all of the combinations come Summer and off season.