S&W 19 rust, what to do?
bkjeffrey
December 16, 2007, 02:19 AM
I have a S&W 19-4 blue 357 that has always been in near perfect condition. Last week I pulled it out of the safe and it had sever rust all over the gun! I always clean and liberally oil this piece, and over the years it has kept its beautiful blue. Im contemplating getting the weapon reblued. Any ideas, comments, concerns, or bits of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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ArchAngelCD
December 16, 2007, 02:25 AM
It might be surface rust that didn't penetrate the finish. Soak it in a good gun oil or Break Free CLP and see what happens.
XavierBreath
December 16, 2007, 02:29 AM
I agree. Soak it in CLP, BreakFree, or Ballistol. Let it sit overnight. Then see how much you can wipe away.
For more stubborn rust, I often use a copper penny as a scraper.
bkjeffrey
December 16, 2007, 02:31 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. I did soak the weapon in WD-40 for a few days. I wiped it down with a clean rag but the rust didnt budge. Im afraid it has begun to pit a bit on the cylinder and barrell. I know that reblueing it would ruin the value of the weapon, so Im reluctant to go that route.:banghead:any other thoughts?
bkjeffrey
December 16, 2007, 02:33 AM
Ballistol, Im not familliar with that. And the copper penny is also a good idea that I will try. What exactly is Ballistol?
XavierBreath
December 16, 2007, 02:36 AM
Ballistol (http://www.ballistol.com/) is a very slickery lubricant. Sometimes when others refuse to work, Ballistol comes through. I use it when I am fitting very close tolerance parts.
ArchAngelCD
December 16, 2007, 02:37 AM
Try the Break Free first. The penny is just used as a scraper because it's soft enough not to damage your revolver.
If you must re-blue I would send it to S&W and let them do it.
Majic
December 16, 2007, 03:46 AM
If indeed it has started to develop pits then don't worry about losing value in rebluing as the value has already been lost as a collector. It's now just a shooter.
bannockburn
December 16, 2007, 07:27 PM
Maybe you should consider going another route if you choose to refinish. Instead of rebluing, maybe try something like hard chrome plating. It has the appearance of stainless steel, gives the gun a higher surface hardness, and is virtually impervious to any visible wear. It's been a very effective finish that I've had done to a number of guns over the years.
Ken Rainey
December 16, 2007, 07:40 PM
I've had good luck using 0000 steel wool and WD-40 or other oil...be sure to wipe it clean with WD-40 soaked paper towels or cloths after you are finished to remove all of the small steel wool fibers and apply regular oil or whatever to protect. If the rust is removed and some of the bluing with it you could try a cold blue to fill it back in but if you want that deep dark glossy blued finish back you'll have to have it hot blued again....hmm, I think if I was faced with that situation, I'd consider having one of the durable aftermarket finishes applied...in either a matte black or matte silver finish - depending on which finish you chose...
bkjeffrey
December 16, 2007, 08:00 PM
thanks guys, lots of good info.
.41Dave
December 16, 2007, 09:07 PM
Soak the gun in CorrosionX and rub down with 0000 steel wool. CorrosionX works better than anything I've ever seen for stopping the corrosion process and removing existing rust.
Fisherman_48768
December 17, 2007, 12:45 AM
Use the model 19 as a learning tool and coat all of your stored firearms with some RIG or similiar metal preservative so this doesn't happen again. Good luck
pinkymingeo
December 17, 2007, 04:10 AM
If the gun must be reblued, and you're concerned about value, have the job done by S&W. A factory reblue has less effect at resale, and 20-30yrs from now might not bother the prospective buyer at all. Save the receipt.
Silvanus
December 17, 2007, 05:51 AM
Ballistol is a very slickery lubricant. Sometimes when others refuse to work, Ballistol comes through. I use it when I am fitting very close tolerance parts.
I like Ballistol (and Brunox) a lot. They both work great on my guns. That's what I used on my Model 17 when I spotted a little rust.
harmonic
December 17, 2007, 08:40 AM
I'm very sorry for your loss. I know it's heartbreaking. At least, it would be for me.
May I ask some questions? What kind of safe do you own? Where in the US do you live and what is the climate there? Where in your house is your safe stored (garage, basement, etc). How are your guns stored in your safe? And is your safe lined? Finally, how often did you wipe down your gun?
SlamFire1
December 17, 2007, 09:02 PM
If indeed it has started to develop pits then don't worry about losing value in rebluing as the value has already been lost as a collector. It's now just a shooter
I agree, but without pictures it is impossible to understand just how much rust you have.
If you only have a few rust spots, don't do anything. Leave it as it is, and shoot it.
If you have a lot, and really want to refinish, don't blue it. Parkerize it. Parkerization lasts longer and is more durable than bluing. The surface will be bead blasted clean and the pits will be hard to find. When they reblue they polish the surface and all the surface markings will become faint. Looks awful. Faint lettering on a bright surface. Yuck.
langenc
December 17, 2007, 09:34 PM
Ditto RIG-
Bear41mag
December 18, 2007, 10:33 AM
Can't add anything else to the advise already given to remove the rust, but I would strongly consider putting a golden rod in your gun safe to keep it from happening again.
My Safe is a the basement of an old farm house which does get damp at times and my golden rod has kept my guns nice and clean when combined with a light spray of Sheath.
Hope you can get it cleaned up and still keep the finish.
rcmodel
December 18, 2007, 02:08 PM
+1. R.I.G.
+2. Golden Rod.
+3. R.I.G. Rig-Rag wiping cloth every time you handle a gun.
Lose the WD-40.
It's not good oil.
It's not a good rust preventive.
It's not a good storage medium.
It not good for much of anything around guns, really.
BTW: Was the 19 stored in a leather holster, or plastic gun rug?
+4. Lose the holsters & gun rugs for storage.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j219/rcmodel/KTOG/1224.gif
rcmodel
bkjeffrey
December 18, 2007, 09:27 PM
While the rust was sporratic, it seems to be only surface rust. The majority of it was removed with Striker CC (corrosion cracker) and 0000 steel wool. Now unless I point out a few minor pits the average person doesnt even notice. The real problem area was the grooved back strap of the grip frame. It seems to have a permanent brownish color to it now. But as Fisherman 48768 said, learning experience for me. The thing that gets me is after 2 years of owning the weapon with no problems this seemed to happen over night. I live in the south and there is alot of humidity. The gun is kept in a small Pelican pistol case, supposed to be air tight. The case is in an cheapo walmart gun safe. Parkerizing was a thought that crossed my mind. I really love the finish on the S&W 327 TRR8. That appears to be a park of some sorts, but I really love that deep blue S&W used to produce. I swear you can swim in it! Anyway, any other thoughts?
ACORN
December 18, 2007, 09:45 PM
I've used Happich Simichrome, Flitz, and Nevrdull metal polishes to remove surface rust. Be careful they are abrasive, albeit very mildly abrasive. Go easy on it with only a little polish on a soft rag. You'll be suprised how much microscopic rust they'll take off of a seemingly good surface. The Nevrdull comes in a can and is like dryer lint impregnated with some kind of chemicals to remove rust and oxidation. Good luck. I feel your pain.:)
bkjeffrey
December 18, 2007, 10:21 PM
Neverdull huh? I never thought of that. Which is funny because being active military I've gone throught my fair share of never dull. Haha.
Bear41mag
December 19, 2007, 03:46 PM
The foam in those hardcases have a bad habit of holding moisture. If your going to keep you gun in it, spray a rag big enough to wrap the gun in liberally with any of the GOOD gun oils out there, stay away from WD 40. Then wrap the gun in it before putting it in the case. This will help some.
Never leave it stored against the foam unprotected.
ojibweindian
December 20, 2007, 08:45 AM
Anyway, any other thoughts?
Yep. Never store a gun in a case whose interior is made of foam rubber. Like Bear41mag said, those types of cases can hold quite a bit of moisture. When storing for long periods of time, coat your gun in BreakFree CLP and check it on a monthly basis. Works for me and my 586, Springfield 45, and 7mm Rem. Mag here in Alabama.
Zebraranger
December 20, 2007, 10:19 AM
I agree with RCmodel, I wipe mine down with a rig rag everytime I put them back in the safe. They should be stored on a stand or pistol rack open air in the safe. A lot of the foam in gun cases are made of open cell foam, which will hold moisture, should not store in a holster either. A golden Rod would be a good idea at keeping the humidity away. I keep two small EvaDry dehumidifier's in the safe, one on the top shelf and one on the bottom shelf. I have not had any problems since, and I live in Florida, the humidity capital. This is how I store mine in the safe.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb204/zebraranger/DSC03180.jpg
gym
December 20, 2007, 06:30 PM
Ok this may or may not work on a blued finish, but it's my secret formula for removing rust from any metal, "so far". When we re-did the kitchen, my wife wanted a double basin stainless steel sink. My wife overcleans things as does my mom. When they got through "cleaning" the sink, it was scratched all over, "sigh". I tried all the usual stuff, no luck, then my wifes friend gave us a tube of "MAAS", it's all in French, yuk, it shocked the hell out of me. Not only was I able to remover scratches from the sink, so it shined like a mirror, but one day I noticed the hammer on my P-13, was pitting, got out the dremmel with polishing compound, still no good, it actually looked worse, then I rem embered the French stuff. It took the pitting right out and shined it up like a mirror again, so I went on to the frike'n Seakamp, "that I could never get all the tiny lines out of, Bingo, gone. Anything that I have tried this on has worked. So when I saw this post, I had to bring it up, it even took the rust off my Grill, lol. The stuff is called MAAS, 4 oz tube, it has to be sold here, as she buys the stuff all the time, i'll ask her next time she comes over. It is a silver 6-7inch rectanglular box with black and blue writing, and the writing is mostlly in french with the following in english, cleans Silver,Gold,Copper,Stainless steel,Chrome,Aluminum- All Metals, Maas restores Glass, plexiglass,Fiberglass, and removes years of rust,residue,and oxidation, the protection is Long Lasting, MAAS International, PO Box LaGrange Il, 60525-0128, I never noticed that it had the address, on the box, but there it is. This stuff is the Bomb, try it, I would like to hear your experiences.
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