What do you need to start reloading


December 17, 2007, 08:28 PM
What all do you need to start reloading

A press and what els

And how much will it all cost to get started I will be shooting no more then 300 rounds a month. I found a hand press from cables for $25. for pistels and rifles I want to start reloading 270win were do I get the powder brass and bullets how do I know how much powder to use and how do I measer it?

How much will I save and how many rounds do I have to shoot to start saveing?:confused:


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December 17, 2007, 08:39 PM
Start out with some good reloading books. DO alot of reading before starting out.

December 17, 2007, 08:39 PM
I have a very basic set up:
Lee Hand press
Dies (9mm, 10mm, .223)
Small digital Scale
Digital calipers
Powder trickler (I fill my cases one at a time weighing each charge)

Other stuff you Need
Reloading manual such as Lee 2nd edition, ABC's of reloading, etc, etc

Other nice to haves
- Brass tumbler and polishing media
- reloading blocks (plastic blocks with hole for holding the cartridges while working on them)

You buy the powder, primers and bullets either locally at places that sell guns/reloading equipment or from mail order like Cabelas, Wideners, Midway USA, etc. But FYI - buying primers and powder online will cost you an extra hazardous material charge to ship (like 20 bucks I think)

How much powder you use and how you do it will be in the manual you need to buy. You measure the powder with the scale.

Start with the manual/book and read a bunch on it first......

December 17, 2007, 08:47 PM
First I'd suggest reading the sticky at the top of the reloading/handloading section.

And to answer your last question first... it depends on what you're reloading... 9mm plinking rounds probably would take ya a while but customized 50 cal or rifle rounds will take you less time.

Main thing i would suggest... figure out a place that you will be reloading before anything else. since only 300 rounds a month you can probably get away with a small place.

with the amount you'll be shooting, measuring the powder i'd just use a quality scale and funnel set. And the amount you'd need... you can find some info online or buy a couple of manuals on reloading. I believe there's a spiral bound book www.midwayusa.com (Midway) carries that is for the 270 win.

where you get your supplies (since you were curious about start saving money buy bulk) unless you have a local place (support locals) look online. I have another thread about favorite sites online.

Since you mentioned the 270 win as one round you'd be reloading as well as you wanna reload for pistols and rifles (i guess in general) you do need a good set of dies to make that press work.

Like everyone has said.... read everything you can read.

December 17, 2007, 08:48 PM
Read the stickie at the top for new reloaders and buy a manual and read it.
And how much will it all cost to get started I will be shooting no more then 300 rounds a month.
That depends on the press you want to start with. You can go from a Lee hand press for $25 to a Dillon progressive for $2,000. I would recomend to not start with a hand press. I would start with at least a single stage. I started with a Lee Classic Turret press and that was the right press for me. I shoot some competition and needed something faster. I can load around 200 rounds per hour on the turret press. A single stage would have been to slow. The reloading manual will answer your questions about bullets and powder.
How much will I save and how many rounds do I have to shoot to start saveing?
I bought my press to just load 9mm and payed the press off in a couple of months from the savings. My setup cost $200 to get started. I can load 9mm for half of what the cheap stuff cost. I now load 38/357 and 223 also. I load 223 for $95 per 1,000 rounds so I am saving $250 to $300 on every 1,000 rounds I load. The type of ammo you want to load ( plinking or match grade ) will determin how much you save. It is a great hobby and has a lot of benefits besides saving money.

December 17, 2007, 08:53 PM
This is the press I was looking to start out with,



December 17, 2007, 09:14 PM
This is the press I was looking to start out with,



That's the hand press I have. Works great for low volume stuff. A Lee single stage press would work just as well, but the hand press takes up no room, doesn't need a sturdy counter to mount it to, etc.

Case prep takes the longest amount of time, then measuring the powder. Although with .270 I bet you would be neck-sizing only (vs full length resizing). I did 200 rounds of 9mm in about 4 hours today (with several interruptions from my 9 wk old son). So 300 in a month is easy on the hand press.

December 17, 2007, 10:42 PM
I only load 9mm and 45 acp. I made a crude little stand from some scrap in the basement so I could move it around and the tools came from Cabelas for about $130 including the dies. Since I don't reload in volume it's all I need although not as nice or sophistocated as the stuff the avid shooters use. A few photos are attached.

December 18, 2007, 01:36 AM
I would start out with a single stage or a turret. Both are easy to setup and operate. Both would suit your needs. I am personally a fan of the Lee Classic Cast presses and have both. I do all of my rifle loading on the single stage, and pistol on the turret.

December 18, 2007, 02:46 AM
Us SW Ohio guys think alike. Spend a little extra for the Lee Classic Cast, it's top notch.

December 18, 2007, 03:09 AM
What all do you need to start reloading
Having the right equipment is essential but knowing how to use it is more important. As others have said you will need to read books on how to reload or have a tutor, base on your spellin you may need the latter as well. Please don't take offense but reloading must be fully comprehended to be done safely.

uk roe hunter
December 18, 2007, 04:46 AM
Don't Do It. It Will Take Over Your Life. Your Wife Will Think You Love The Press More Than Her. You Will Stop Reading Novels And Start Reading Data Manuals All Of The Time.

December 18, 2007, 06:49 AM
My shpeal:
I got an RCBS Rockchucker kit and an RCBS Video, because I was overwhelmed with how to get started reloading.

If I were to advise someone on how to do it that was a friend, I would show him how, and then loan him enough stuff to do it at his home.

Telling someone how to do it on the Internet, I would start out with the tasks that have to be done, and list the cheap tools to get, so the the guy can maintain a mental map of the goals:

1) Clean and inspect the case. This step can be done with a couple twists of the wrist with steel wool, or expensive vibrators. Later when you get more tools, you will clean the primer pocket, but it is not needed. Throw out cases with split necks, loose primer pockets, big dents, separated shoulders or bases, etc.

2) Get the old primer out of the case, called depriming or decapping.

3) Make the case small enough in inside diameter to grip a bullet and small enough on the outside to fit in the chamber. This is called resizing.
Both steps 2) & 3) are usually accomplished in one step as the resizing die has a decapping pin. This will require:
a) Shell holder ~$3 Lee #2 shell holder or ~$5 RCBS #3 shell holder, #2 Lyman, or #1 Hornady shell holder.
The same size shell holder can be used later for 30-06, 7mm Mauser, 308, 243, 22-250 etc.
b) A resizing die. This die will probably be bought in a kit with two dies.
Lee 2 die set for 270Win; $13, RCBS, $27, Forster $57
c) A press. Lee Reloader press $20 is a real cheapee, but will always find a use. RCBS Rockchucker $90 is a workhorse of the highest quality.
d) Lubrication, I like Redding Imperial sizing wax $8, will do a few thousand reloads.

4) Trim the case if it is now too long. Forster case trimmer $50
a) chamfer and de burr the case mouth if trimmed. $15 for tool.

5) Re prime the case.
a) One can buy a priming tool and do it in 2 seconds or fumble with the primer built into RCBS presses and do it 10 seconds.
Lee Auto prime II $13, RCBS priming tool $26
The two tools I mentioned use the same shell holder as used above in resizing. Beware that Lee also sells another priming system ["Lee auto prime" not "Lee auto primer II"] that uses special shell holders. I would avoid that system to start.
b) One must also buy, beg, borrow, or steal new primers.
To buy them mail order, one would have to pay a Hazardous Materials charge [Haz Mat]. Small purchases would be too expensive. Usually 100 primers can be purchased for $1 or $2 at the local gun store. Primers come in combinations of being; magnum or standard, pistol or rifle, and large or small. For 270 Win, large rifle primers are what is needed, and will work with standard or magnum, but most published loads with be with standard primers.

6) Fill the case with powder. This is called charging the case. For this one will need powder and a way to measure powder. With black powder, one just fills the case, but with smokeless powder too much powder will fit. Start out using smokeless powder and measuring it. The amount to use depends on the bullet that will be used. The amount is published in load books, or better still on powder manufacturer's web sites for free.
a) Buy powder. There is the Haz Mat problem again, so off to the neighborhood gun store. Any "rifle powder" will do. Expect to pay ~$20 for a pound in a gun store. I like IMR4895 or IMR4560 or dozens of others.
b) Measure the powder. This can be done with cheap plastic measuring cups with handles from Lee, but I would start out weighing the powder. The weighing scales: Lee Perfect powder measure $20, RCBS Uniflow Powder measure $60 [this tool is really nice]

7) Install the bullet. This is called seating the bullet.
a) Buy bullets. For 15 cents each and usually bought in 100's.
b) The seating die should have come in the reloading die kit. Put it in the press and put the primed and charged case in the shell holder. Set the bullet on top of the case and raise the ram [push down on the press lever]
c) Measure the over all length of the cartridge [OAL]. This can be done with a ruler, but is best done with dial calipers. Expect to pay $20 for some Chinese calipers or $100 for American.

8) Crimp the case into the bullet. This means the case must pinch the bullet so hard that recoil will not yank the bullet out when other chambers of the revolver are fired [or so the bullet will not get shoved deeper into the case from recoil in magazine or tube fed cartridge]. The crimping step can be done in one step with the bullet seating, but I would start out doing it in two separate steps. The two steps look the same [cartridge goes into seating die], but can be different in how the seating die is adjusted. Again, adjust the die [how far to screw it into the press] per the instructions that come with the die set and with the seating die, there is also the adjustment of the seating stem [knurled knob on top of the die].

9) Take notes when you shoot your handloads. Write on the targets. Things like "130 gr. bullets shot way low, but 150 gr. bullets were right on." will come in handy next time you sit down to reload or buy bullets.

1) Don't adjust the resize die so that the shoulder gets pushed back. The brass will then last longer and not need trimming.
2) Don't use the expander ball on the decapping stem. No lube inside the brass will be needed and the ammo will be more accurate. Get the case deprimed some other way.
3) Don't crimp unless you have a need, like the recoil of an elephant gun.
4) Don't chamfer the case mouth until it is a sharp cookie cutter.
5) Don't be cheap with the lube. The sizer die will run dry in one or two cases and be hard to work. Cases can get stuck in there.
6) Experiment with seating depth for accuracy. The bullet tips may be shaped differently and give erroneous readings with the caliper. There is a Sinclair bullet comparator to help this. The bullet jamming into the lands will have a higher start pressure and act like it has a few more grains of powder. The bullet may get stuck there and if the cartridge is pulled out, powder may spill all over the action. The bullet seated long, will however sometimes give much better accuracy.

I am now handloading ~60 cartridges 7 years after I started.
I have bought allot of stuff.
Here is the stuff I still use:

1) Forster Co-ax press
2) Forster full length factory honed dies
3) RCBS uniflow powder measure
4) RCBS 505 powder scale
5) Redding Imperial die wax
6) Wilson case mouth chamfer
7) Forster priming tool
8) Lyman pocket uniformer [for cleaning]
9) Lyman moly vibrator kit
10) Berry's Bullets vibrator cleaner
11) Luxo magnifier lamp
12) Berry's Bullets ammo boxes
13) 3M post-its
14) Lee depriming die
15) Any $20 Chinese 6" dial caliper
16) Any Chinese pin gauge sets .060 to .500"
17) Sinclair concentricity gauge
18) Sharpie ultra fine point permanent marker
19) Sinclair bullet comparator
20) A radio to listen to when reloading
21) Quickload program on my computer

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