[bogie]

Yup. A progressive reloader.

Just thought I'd let you folks know...

So, just how effective are the "no (*&)(*& powder in the case, son..." indicators out there? It'll initially be used for .45ACP and .223.

[martin]

Well Junior the best indicator is between your ears. ;)

[bogie]

No duh!

That's why I normally load to blocks with single-stage presses. And use a flashlight.

[martin]

The Dillon 550b doesn't have the provision for a powder check die. I really didn't need the 650(which does have it). I keep a close eye on it and don't go like a bat out of hell when I'm loading.

I still load test rounds to the loading block and use the Pact powder scale and trickler. Much faster than dinking with the Dillon powder measure when you are loading a mag of a certain load at a time.

Personally I just never have cared for the Dillon powder measure. Given your penchant for accuracy and love for the Harrells products you will probably be wanting to find a mount for your Harrell like I am so it will mount on the press.

I have made my prediction...and I'm sticking to it.

:D

What were you considering press wise anyway?

[JSolie]

Don't know about powder indicators, but let me share a little story about powder and my reloading machine...

I have a Dillon 550 (not to be confused with the 550B). I've had it for a couple of years, and have loaded lots of rounds on it... .38/.357, 9mm (yes, 9mm), and .45ACP. I did not start out on a single-stage press and move up--I was just about ready to buy a rockchucker, when this little gem appeared on ebay for $125. Thanks to the "buy it now" feature, this press became mine--it had never been used--only taken out of its box.

In the trials on using this machine, I've only had one round where the machine failed to dispense the powder. Since it's a 550, it relies on a spring to return the powder bar to its original position. The 550B uses a different mechanism to do this, and it looks as if the down stroke returns the powder bar (rather than relying on a spring). In the case of my "no powder" round, the powder bar stuck because of some sort of crud build up. I hadn't noticed that the bar did not return to its normal position (I was loading with a few "helpers" in the garage at the time and I had to make sure that one didn't try to whap one of the others upside the head with a 2x4 ;) ). I discovered that the powder bar wasn't returning to position, and immediately took care of the problem. The trouble was that I didn't realized that one got loaded with no powder. :eek: I was loading 158gr .38 SWCs at the time (simple practice ammo).

fast forward a week or two

I'm at the range with my wife's uncle. He's shooting his grandfather's .32x20 (I think) on round at a time. I'm finished with the rifle, and I take out the .357mag and start to shoot the .38spl I'd loaded. All was going well, when I heard a funny "pop" and I saw something fly out the front end of the gun and roll around on the ground and disappear. :what: Immediately I stop and investigate. Seems that I had found the load with no powder, and (thank the Good Lord), nothing bad happened. Scared me pretty good, that did.

I now always watch that powder bar. It hasn't had any stickage problems in quite a while. :)

As for powder indicators, when I load 45acp, I can always peek down into the case and see the Bullseye glistening back up at me :D

-- John

[benewton]

I'm running a 650 in a classic case of overkill, since, having the money at the time and figuring I'd have it forever, I grabbed the best available for what I had in mind.

I use mine for loading 1K blocks of whatever PISTOL round I'm stocking up on.
My loads have been standardized for years, hence the power measure doesn't change adjustment. I check it at the start of the run, via an old fashioned balance scale, and probably every 200 rounds or so. I also have the powder check, but keep the powder mag full, so skipped that buzzer.

In any case, I just about always visually check the case prior to bullet seating, just because.... Then too, I'm not out to try for 750 rounds/hour, and still inspect each box prior to stocking it for the usual no-no's.

I've had zero problems that weren't operator induced.

[Steve Smith]

I have modified my 550 toolhead to accept the 650 powder check die (newbies if you DON'T know what I'm talking about DON'T ask, use the SEARCH function, silly!)

It will alarm if I am more than .15 grains over or under my specified load, using a .223 when the powder is low in the neck. If I were using the powder check with a .45-70 or other wide mouthed cartridge (heck, .45 acp) I would not expect it to alarm within less than a .5 grain variation. Of course, everything can be modified, and you could make the change easily.

The powder check die is mainly for safety's sake, and that .5 grain variance in a wide mouthed cartridge would still give you safe loads. In a necked cartridge, the accuracy of the check die increases dramatically, allowing you to also use it as a QC check.

I load my 600 yard ammo on my Dillon. I know it will hold the spotting disk (3") at 600 yards as long as I can do it (not long). If there is a volumetric change in the powder, I know it because the check die squeals. I can run though 100 rounds and only pull roughly 3 rounds due to volumetric differences in powder. When weighed, they are all still within specs.

The Dillon measure, when carefully set up, and with the proper powder types, can be VERY accurate.

Bogie, I am not trying to be big headed at all but you and I are both accuracy geeks from different directions. I think my advice has value in respect to your particular situation.

[martin]

That is, of course, if the specs. are truly accurate. Only one way to determine that - put the charges on an accurate scale from Mettler or A&D.

http://www.harrellsprec.com/schuetzen.html

http://balance.balances.com/scales/47

[bogie]

Actually, accuracy-wise, most of the powder measures out there are equal, with an edge going to the Lee regarding long stick powders.

Overall, folks think that the old Belding & Mull measures were likely the most consistently accurate, but hey, you have to inherit 'em.

I'll probably go with whatever measure for pistol powders, and screw in a Lee for stick powder loads.

Since I trim (if needed) and polish my brass after FL sizing, the "progressive" features will amount to belling/charging/seating/crimping.

[pinetree64]

Though I have an RCBS Pro2000, I still use my old Rockchucker for my rifles. Right now, I am only loading 45acp on my progressive. I like the Pro 2000 because it is manually indexed, giving more control. I use a lock-out die that stops the press if a powder charge is missed or doubled. Also, with my RCBS's, if you're not going to measure individual loads, it pays to find a powder that metters well. With my Rockchucker and rifles I measure each load.

Now that I'm getting into Mausers (8mm), I might order the Lee Collet dies (no lube), that you recommended elsewhere. And start using my progressive for 8mm since it is just for plinking. Then again I have a couple thousand rounds of surplus...

tjg

[bogie]

Dewd!

Make sure you get the "deluxe" set, since you'll probably have to bump 'em back occasionally...

[pinetree64]

I will!

Thanks,
tjg