[Kentucky Rifle]

I called Marlin a couple of days ago and asked what was best or what they recommended for their walnut stocks. The lady gave me an answer that I was reluctant to post. However, she said, "Lemon Pledge". Stunned, I said, "Lemon Pledge? From a spray can"? She repeted it. "Lemon Pledge~from a spray can".
I can't see myself doing this. It will make my fine, walnut stock smell like a lemon and get slicker than owl sh..."stuff". Other recommendations, please?

Slightly embarrassed,
KR

[JohnBT]

I won't argue with Marlin, but I won't put the stuff on good furniture much less my old Mountie with an oil-finished stock. It probably works just fine on the newer guns with the plastic varnish finish.

I usually get enough gun oil, silicone or RIG on my hands to shine the stock with a rag. My best guess would be carnuba car wax or maybe Bowling Alley wax, but I've only used them a few times.

John
__________

From the S C Johnson site:

Lemon Pledge:

(a PARTIAL list...JT)

Ingredients/Identity Information
===========================================================================
Proprietary: NO
Ingredient: HYDROTREATED HEAVY NAPHTHA (PETROLEUM); (ISOPARAFFINIC
HYDROCARBON SOLVENT)
Ingredient Sequence Number: 01
Percent: 20
NIOSH (RTECS) Number: 1002859HN
CAS Number: 64742-48-9
OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N)
ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N)
-------------------------------------
Proprietary: NO
Ingredient: PROPANE, 2-METHYL-; (ISOBUTANE)
Ingredient Sequence Number: 02
Percent: 20
NIOSH (RTECS) Number: TZ4300000
CAS Number: 75-28-5
OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N)
ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N)
-------------------------------------
Proprietary: NO
Ingredient: PROPANE
Ingredient Sequence Number: 03
Percent: 20
NIOSH (RTECS) Number: TX2275000
CAS Number: 74-98-6
OSHA PEL: 1000 PPM
ACGIH TLV: SIMPLE ASPHYXIANT
-------------------------------------
Proprietary: NO
Ingredient: BUTANE
Ingredient Sequence Number: 04
Percent: 20
NIOSH (RTECS) Number: EJ4200000
CAS Number: 106-97-8
OSHA PEL: 800 PPM
ACGIH TLV: 800 PPM

[freedomlover]

I've used Johnson's Paste Wax on my new Marlins with good results. I heard about others using it on TFL and have been using it ever since--about $5 at any grocery store or Wally World. If you don't like the results, you can always use it on your car, works well as car wax.

[sm]

Finishing Wax by Minwax. It's a Paste wax similar to Johnson's. 1 # can cost me $5 when I did some wood projects many many years ago. My can is marked "special type for dark colored surfaces". I've used on lighter wood and can't really tell any difference.

[Kentucky Rifle]

I like the Minwax idea. I've used Minwax products before.

Thanks,
KR

[cabinetman]

Hi Guys. I'd like to weigh-in here with a little interesting info.

I must tell you that wax does little but put a "skin" on a rifle stock that will simply slough off as you handle it. Thick layers become tacky or greasy to your hand. Thin applications will provide you with a surface you can shine up but does little else. Of all the different finishes you can apply to a piece of wood, wax is the least resistant to handling and moisture.

Waxes and polishes do little to offer any protection at all to wood. They don't feed wood anything, they don't feed the finish anything, nor do they protect wood from heat, water, solvents, or any chemical damage. Nor do they slow any deterioation caused by oxidation or light.

Wax has it purpose, however. You can apply wax to a wood stock and hang it up for display. It will remain nice to look at and makes it easy to wipe down from time to time. Wax is also used as a preservative in museums. They have a special concoction that they actually spray on....in a micro-thin layer.....on all the weapons you see for display. The weapon is actually heated to a very specific temperature (around 90 degrees if memory serves me) and the liquid wax mixture is atomized into an extremely fine spray. Then the weapon is cooled and ready for the shelf or display case. It is used as a preservative as it is easly removed wtihout harming the weapon. And, it's sprayed on everything...wood and metal alike.

So, what do use? Well, it first starts with what on the stock in the first place. If you've got a failed finish to begin with, applying wax will not help. As a matter of fact, it migh very well hinder any future finish repairs. Lemon Pledge? Well, it also has silicone in it but there isn't one single drop of Lemon in it. Imagine that! And, because of the silicone, if you ever desired to repair a finish in the future, that silicone will prevent you from applying a clear coat as it will 'fisheye' all over the place. Some finish shops have an anti-fisheye additive they put into all of their finishes to fight the fisheye but the average homeowner will have a hell of a time trying to figure out why their finish isn't working and is like an "orange peel".

I won't go into type of finishes found out weapons as they do vary greatly between commercial and military finishes. There is a reason we do want to wipe our rifles and pistols down after use. We do need something that will help remove dirt and debris from daily use and clean the stock at the same time without caustic matierals harming the exsiting finish or affecting the bluing. We don't want something that will show every fingerprint on the stock when we're using it, however.

There is one topical finish you can use on your rifles and pistols that won't harm anything, won't preclude repairs in the future, and still provide a nice wiping finish that won't show lots of handling marks. That material is called "OZ". OZ is a commercial furniture polish that is used by many cabinetmakers (like me). It comes in both spray and non-spray containers. It's an emulsion made up of a blend of oils and solvents and wipes on nicely, cleans both the metal and wood nicely, and doesn't show fingerprints. It has no silicone. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/behoz.htm

It's available through most good woodworking stores and online. Do a Google search for "OZ" to find a source near you. Whenever I finish a piece of furniture for a client, a can of OZ always goes with it and I have many clients calling for replacment. It's a great cleaner/polish. Once you try it, you'll love it, especially on metal.

Just thought I'd share. You won't find this on the grocery store shelf (at least I haven't seen it there) so catalog order is probably the best way to go.

Rome

[Poodleshooter]

Try linseed or tung oil. Should be available almost anywhere stains and varnishes are sold. It penetrates the wood, offering a bit of protection against water damage.

[freedomlover]

Poodleshooter, I like a linseed/tung oil finish as much as anybody else, but the Marlin people told me it was incompatible with their "Mar-Shield" finish they use on their stocks these days. Exactly what this finish consists of I don't know 'cuz they wouldn't tell me, but it seems like some kind of poly-type coating. They told me to use Lemon Pledge as well, but I don't want a high-gloss finish on my stock--so I've been using the Johnson's wax.

cabinetman, I'll look into the OZ polish, sounds more protective than wax. I'm wondering about compatibility with that newfangled Marlin finish, mainly.

There was a discussion on the Marlin talk website some time ago about sanding off the "Mar-Shield" finish and applying a good ol' fashioned linseed/tung oil finish. I may actually get around to doing that someday...

[cabinetman]

Freedomlover, I haven't found a finish that the OZ will hurt and I've used it over much more delicate finishes like lacquer. The polymerized oil finishes and polyurethane finishes are much harder and durable that lacquer. The OZ is designed to be a light cleaner/polish too. After you shoot, you can simply spray/wipe it on and then off and it'll remove powder residue and provide a nice "handling" finish. It won't show fingerprints. It's also great on metal as I've already pointed out.

All finishes can be catagorized into just a few types so the "Mar-Shield" finish you're talking about is probably either a polyurethane or polymerized oil finish like Tru-Oil. Neither of them is affected by much other than finish strippers and even they are sometime ineffective. The last thing I'd ever use on a stock is "Lemon Pledge", and I don't care what the nice ladies at the company say about it. The only thing I like lemons in is my scotch and water with a twist.

Rome

[freedomlover]

cabinetman, thanks for the info. Regarding your comments on the use of Lemon Pledge on gunstocks, I wholeheartedly concur!

[Kentucky Rifle]

OK~ "OZ" sounds best. You ought to know best, considering what you do. This is a new stock that I want to keep looking fairly nice. I know (and don't expect) the stock to look like it just came out of the box. :) I like to shoot everything I have. This Marlin 1894C has been with me a LOT these days.
I never realized how pleasant a .357 mag could be. Shooting .357's from a scandium snub is not fun. From a rifle~well I'm beginning to believe Terry Murbach..."There is no downside to shooting a .357 mag rifle". It's nice.

Thanks,
KR

[cabinetman]

Please believe me when I say that I don't want to come across as some snooty "know it all". I'm not. I just like to share what works and doesn't work with my fellow shooters here and on the other boards and will only jump in with specific recommendations when I feel that they will do the most good.

That OZ product is virtually unknown outside of the trades so I figured I'd introduce to to all of you. You'll really like the way it works and it's all my wife will use in our house. She uses it on the antiques as well as some black lacquered furniture, wood and metal. I always use it as the last step when I put a gun back together as it helps remove any handling marks, dust or debris. Anyway, Kentucky Rifle, I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Just don't let your wife get her hands on it because it'll disappear!

Rome

[Kentucky Rifle]

Cab~
NOBODY here thought that! I'm positive the info was much appreciated.
I'll buy some for my wife too. That's what I do a lot. If I buy something I figure she might "appropriate", I buy TWO and just give her one. It's best.

KR

[Al Thompson]

Cabinetman, let me second KR. You post lots of great information!

KR, I use my Marlin .44 for hunting - some OOOO steel wool will knock the sheen off the Marlin's finish if that's a concern.

[Sisco]

Here's a whole different train of thought.
Use it the way it was intended to be used; carried through the trees and rocks in search of game.
When it gets so scratched & ugly you can't stand it anymore, sand it down and refinish it or leave it as is and tell everyone it has "character".
If by that time it's beyond refinishing and the "character" isn't appealing put some new wood under it.

[308win]

If it is an oil finish, clean with murphy oil soap solution. Use Tung oil or boiled linseed (any paint store will have them). Like most things, a little goes a long way.

[Moparmike]

Oz is ok for polyurathaned stocks right? I was going to put a pine stain on my stock but didnt quite have the cash, so I have just put 4 or so coats of polyurathane on it. It looks good.

[cabinetman]

If it works on lacquered surfaces, it will certainly work on Polyurethaned surfaces. Absolutely.

I know I should have bought some stock in that company yesterday!

Rome

[Noban]

I have a Marlin MR-7 - remember those? Marlin made a bolt action center fire for a few years. It had what I believe was a poly finish that I quickly stripped off. I then applied a concoction of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and bees wax, mixed in equal parts to a buttery consistency. I applied this new finish with the palm of my hand, rubbing until the wood felt warm. Every few months I rub in a littel more and finish off with a silicone cloth. Looks great to me.

[Robby from Long Island]

I bought my first rifle, a Remington 700 Varmint Special about 35 years ago and decided I needed to use a good paste wax to protect the stock. Decided on Butcher's paste wax but found after a time that the wax build-up was just hiding the finish rather than promoting it.

Was in NYC one day and watching some building maintenance men cleaning the wood and metal in the Empire State Building and asked them what they were using. It was called "Scott's Liquid Gold". It's a wood cleaner and preservative and does a beautiful job of protecting both the metal and wood on my guns. Been using this stuff now for over 30 years and won't use anything else. The finish on all my rifles, whether oil finish or urethane is better than new. A couple of applications per year is all it takes and in all that time have only had to buy two cans. If you do decide to try it, make sure you buy the liquid, not the spray can. They still sell it at True Value hardware stores.

[Intune]

Uh, oh. Tell me I haven't been messin' up. I just put a little dab of BreakFree or FP10 on the wood after I've wiped down the metal and rub it in. Please tell me I'm not ruining a Beretta Silver Pigeon II's wood! :what:

Need a little icon for sheepish...