What Do You Clean Your Weapon With


January 19, 2008, 10:58 PM
I've been using Hoppe's but I notice it turns the barrel green sometimes. I'm using Otis now. What does everybody here use?

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January 19, 2008, 11:03 PM
The green is from copper fouling. You want the Hoppes to dissolve that.

Winchester 73
January 19, 2008, 11:04 PM
Hoppe's.It all I've ever used.
No discoloration problems.

January 19, 2008, 11:04 PM
I've always used Hoppe's with no issues.

January 19, 2008, 11:11 PM
Bores get cleaned with whatever copper solvent I happen to be using at the time - I have no set favorite and tend to buy whatever is available. Right now, I'm using WipeOut foamy stuff in an aerosol can. I've also been known to use Eds Red, and been happy with it.

The reminder of the firearm gets wiped down with a dry cloth and lubed with CLP.

January 19, 2008, 11:13 PM
Hoppes and Tetra

January 19, 2008, 11:15 PM
I use CLP. I love the fact that it has Teflon in it to protect everything.

January 19, 2008, 11:36 PM
I clean with Shooters choice, and lube with CLP and Plastilube.

January 19, 2008, 11:41 PM
Hoppe's & Powder Blast. Break Free CLP and Mobile 1 as lubricant.

January 19, 2008, 11:42 PM
+1 for hoppes

January 19, 2008, 11:44 PM
Hoppe's. It's great stuff. It cleans guns and makes a great cologne!

January 19, 2008, 11:44 PM
Primarily, good ol' Hoppes#9.

January 19, 2008, 11:45 PM
I use Hoppes or Outer's solvent for cleaning, and Break Free LP for lubricant and protection. I will also use carb cleaner for blasting stuff clean and follow up with Break Free LP.

January 19, 2008, 11:46 PM
Kroil and Hoppes I mix it 50/50. My dad has use this since I can remember and he has some old K frames that look as good as the day he purchased them. I noticed that after the first one or two cleanings with this mix that it now only takes me two wet patches to really clean up the barrel. So now even with new weapons I take them home and clean them with this mix very liberally. When I come home from the range there is no leading if I am shooting lead and hardly any copper fouling. This mixture has cut down on my cleaning time quite a bit and I use a bore scope every so often to check the barrels just to make sure. One day I will learn to listen to my pops :)

January 19, 2008, 11:47 PM
Hoppes #9 and Break-Free CLP.

January 20, 2008, 12:27 AM
I like Barnes for Copper fouling in the barrel, Hoppes when it's just dirty. Cover and lubicate everything with Breakfree.

Heck, in the Army we cleaned and lubricated our main 105mm gun, coax machine gun, 50 cal, 1911 and grease gun with Breakfree. I figure if it's good enough for military equipment, it good enough for my guns.

January 20, 2008, 12:29 AM

Out of 15 posts, TWO people mentioned using something that cuts copper.

Copper is what causes the green crap.

Most of you guys who use #9 or CLP are going to shoot your rifles a while, and then the accuracy is going to go south.

Darn, you done shot out that barrel, huh?


Keep the copper under control, and you keep your fliers under control. Which requires a fairly aggressive copper solvent. But hey, that break-free stuff sure is tacticool, ain't it?

(shotgunners, for plastic and carbon, Ed's Red is about the best there is - does squat for copper tho...)

edit: Okay - two people, and one guy who seems to think that the US Army actually knows how to clean guns...

January 20, 2008, 12:29 AM
Hoppes #9 to clean, Miltect 1 or Corrosion X as lube. Careful with corrosion X as lube, it is a penetrator, so keep it away for the ammo. I mostly use it on the outside of my blued guns.

January 20, 2008, 01:44 AM
Butch's bore shine.

January 20, 2008, 02:36 AM
Break Free CLP exclusively

January 20, 2008, 02:56 AM
I tend to believe the military's conclusion about cleaning and lubricating...... Compared to a poster whose sharp remarks are based more on opinion then hard research.

If I had one product and one product only to clean, lubricate and protect it would be.........hmmmmm Breakfree CLP.

Somebody care to explain to me how accuracy goes "down hill" from CLP use?

January 20, 2008, 03:29 AM
Hoppes #9 mostly,certain guns for the hard to reach spots, I use aerosol brake cleaner (works REAL good too), and as soon as the rain stops so I can actually go shooting, I plan to test some old school USGI Rifle Bore Cleaner that I got a case of 12, 8oz cans for $20 shipped.I hear that it smells horrible, may cause cancer, so wear gloves, but works VERY well, especially for corrosive ammo. We'll see.

January 20, 2008, 03:35 AM
clp for general cleaning, and knockout foaming bore cleaner for copper removal in the barrel. Ask the benchrest shooters about barrel cleaning and accuracy and you will learn about copper in the barrel.

January 20, 2008, 09:54 AM
Many different chemicals. I use bore cleaner in the bore, and Mpro7 or Breakfree on action parts. Some I lube with militech, some with Ballisol. Others I use grease or slide glide on.

Bore cleaners I like are Butch's bore shine and Montana Gold bore cleaners. I use a simple pipette to remove a small amount from the solvent bottle to apply to the patches which I run down the bore.

January 20, 2008, 10:07 AM
Hoppes (when I'm shooting lead bullets), Knockout (jacketed bullets), and Breakfree CLP.

Flame Red
January 20, 2008, 10:14 AM
Take my advice and throw away all that gun cleaning crapola and go with Ed's Red. I made up a 5 gallon bucket and it is better than any commerical product - and cheaper! I mixed it up according to this formula - there are viarants. Google it.

2 Gallons of low oder mineral sprits
1 Gallon of Kearosene
1 gallon of automatic tranny fluid
1 gallon of Acetone.

Just let is soak for a few minutes and use a nylon brush to brush the junk away.

I have heard this formula works really good in a parts washer.

January 20, 2008, 10:25 AM
Cascade and Jet Dry rinse.

January 20, 2008, 11:09 AM
easy on my wife's nose....and maybe better for me, too

crud....MP-7....that will teach me to read a post on someone buying a MP-5 right before posting this

January 20, 2008, 11:29 AM
Hoppes doesnt do much for leading in the barrel of my 637... but another vote for Hoppes #9 and CLP, thats pretty much all I use except Windex when im shooting corrosive ammo or blackpowder.

January 20, 2008, 11:32 AM
+1 for hoppes,

I am not much on break-free

Chris Rhines
January 20, 2008, 12:15 PM
Warm water and Simple Green for day-to-day scrubbing.
MPro-7 gel for bores, on the rare occasions that I clean them.
Slide-Glide for lubrication.

- Chris

January 20, 2008, 12:34 PM
Outers Nitro Solvent. Seems to work pretty well, and I like the smell.:)

January 20, 2008, 12:59 PM
Take my advice and throw away all that gun cleaning crapola and go with Ed's Red. I made up a 5 gallon bucket and it is better than any commerical product - and cheaper! I mixed it up according to this formula - there are viarants. Google it.

2 Gallons of low oder mineral sprits
1 Gallon of Kearosene
1 gallon of automatic tranny fluid
1 gallon of Acetone.

Just let is soak for a few minutes and use a nylon brush to brush the junk away.

I have heard this formula works really good in a parts washer.

I just bought a parts washer. I will have to try this out.

January 20, 2008, 01:20 PM
Breakfree CLP!

January 20, 2008, 01:22 PM
I don't - It's a Glock.

January 20, 2008, 01:35 PM
OH, Yikes PressCheck. I'm going to assume that is a joke.

Hoppes #9 for general cleaning after shooting and handling. I also will use Hoppe's Copper Solvent on occasion after I have fired quite a few rounds. I soak a patch and stand the rifle on end on a rag and put the patch in the chamber to let it soak down the rifling. After that, I clean and scrub. This is not a common cleaning, but when I do, I definitely see the green come out.

January 20, 2008, 01:36 PM
The guy on http://www.theboxotruth.com/ uses WD40. What do you guys think about using this?


January 20, 2008, 01:54 PM
One more vote for CLP.

January 20, 2008, 02:03 PM
Somebody care to explain to me how accuracy goes "down hill" from CLP use?CLP works to get out burnt powder.

As a copper solvent it leaves much to be desired and as a lead remover it is totally useless.

Want to remove powder and protect a bore? Use CLP.

Want to remove lead and/or copper then use a solvent that works for the fouling you wish to remove otherwise it'll build up over time and accuracy will suffer - especially with leading.

Personally - I'm a fan of Butch's Bore shine. Gets out all powder fouling, most copper and most lead. Though if I really want to get out lead I use copper wool.

January 20, 2008, 02:09 PM
S&W Premium Bore Gel for the barrel, CLP for everything else.

January 20, 2008, 02:12 PM
I tend to believe the military's conclusion about cleaning and lubricating...... Compared to a poster whose sharp remarks are based more on opinion then hard research.

Okay - that's just rich...

Son, I shoot benchrest. Fairly seriously. If something doesn't cut copper, it doesn't go in the box. In fact, I don't think I've EVER seen a bottle of that tacticool breakfree stuff at a benchrest match - because it's not really that good of a cleaner.

The Army isn't concerned about accuracy. The Army is concerned about functionality and slingling large quantities of lead in the general direction of Achmed...

What causes accuracy to deteriorate is the copper plating that builds up over time. From shot #1. If your solvent doesn't remove copper, it doesn't work. The highly vaunted chrome-plated barrel doesn't improve accuracy - it just keeps stuff from sticking. As much. For a while. Ever look at the throat area of one of your rifles with a bore scope? It can be downright scary.

(guys who shoot cast lead - well, there are other solvents that work nicely - just so it gets the lead out... And I love Ed's Red for shotgunning.)

The ritual:

I start the day by flushing the trigger group from above with a bit of lighter fluid (per instructions from a guy named Arnold...).

Put rifle in cleaning stand. Insert bore guide. Run three patches VERY soaked with Butch's Bore Shine. Then give it 10 strokes with a bronze brush, squirting BBS in occasionally. Let it set while I load (10-15 minutes). Then three more patches soaked with BBS, 2-3 dry patches, pull the bore guide, swab out the chamber with a .45 swab, walk to the line, lube the bolt lugs, cocking area and the back of the receiver with a good high-pressure grease, and try to put all five in a little hole.

After an agg, I'll usually give it a fast Sweet's treatment. And after the day, usually a little JB or USP.

fearless leader
January 20, 2008, 02:26 PM
Yeah, sure, you could use other things than Hoppes, but would it make as good an aftershave/incect repellant?:)

January 20, 2008, 03:00 PM
Gunzilla has been the best for me. Cleans, lubricates and protects and is absolutely non-toxic.

January 20, 2008, 03:50 PM
I will also use carb cleaner for blasting stuff clean and follow up with Break Free LP.

May I recommend brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner? Carb cleaner tends to dissolve rubber and embrittle plastic components. Has also softened wood finishes.

Brake cleaner is just as effective as a cleaner but does not destroy rubber or plastic. I'd still rather not get it on a nice wood stock, though.

For me, Hoppes or Shooter's Choice for bore cleaning, Eezox as a CLP. I'm just geting into reloading with lead boolits, so I may be in the market for something more effective on lead...

January 20, 2008, 04:01 PM

For light, in-between major cleanings, I use EEZOX, and for major cleaning, I use M-Pro7 oil, cleaner, and copper solvents.


January 20, 2008, 04:09 PM
Hoppe's 'ol #9 to clean lead and powder residue, and Sweet's 7.62 for copper fouling. Lube/protect with Breakfree LP or Rem Oil. ;)

January 20, 2008, 04:13 PM
If something doesn't cut copper, it doesn't go in the box
Bogie is right.

Butches Bore Shine sees a lot of use at benchrest matches because it works very well on copper, carbon, and powder fouling. It will keep your rifle shooting little bitty groups all day.

I like to use Bore Techs Eliminator after a days shooting, or anytime I think I am getting some copper build up, because it just melts the stuff like magic. I think it works as well as Sweets and the other ammonia based copper solvents, and it won't harm you.

A couple of earlier posters are right about CLP. Great stuff for keeping a rifle working. Not all that great at getting a barrel squeaky clean.

I like Butches Bore Shine (http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=CPSCSO&item=01-652&type=store), Shooters Choice (http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=CPSCSO&item=SC-4&type=store) and TM Solution (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=243183&t=11082005). All very good products. TM Solution seems to get powder fouling better than the others. Seems too. It's non petroleum based and Ammonia free.

For copper any of the ammonia based solvents will work fine, but as I said, I prefer Bore Techs Eliminator (http://www.boretech.com/introducing.htm).

Lead is a whole nother story. I have some stuff called Marine Pal (http://users.techline.com/palfac/index.htm#overview) that does a great job. It is one of the best penetrating oils I have ever used.

January 20, 2008, 04:18 PM
Butch's or a foaming copper remover. Where does one buy Kroil other than their site?

January 20, 2008, 04:21 PM
The TM stuff is really liked by a lot of the rimfire competitors... Not as much by the centerfire folks...

FWIW (disclosure time): I knew Butch Fisher (the guy who developed Butch's Bore Shine) and I know Tom Meredith.

I also know the guy who came up with Shooter's Choice, but I can't remember his name right now...

January 20, 2008, 05:19 PM
Hoppe's No. 9 for solvent.

RemOil for lube.

January 20, 2008, 05:24 PM

Out of 15 posts, TWO people mentioned using something that cuts copper.

Copper is what causes the green crap.

Most of you guys who use #9 or CLP are going to shoot your rifles a while, and then the accuracy is going to go south.

Darn, you done shot out that barrel, huh?Hoppe's #9 cuts copper just fine. You have to soak the barrel overnight that's all.

I've used foaming bore cleaners, Sweets, etc. After that, soaking the barrel overnight with Hoppe's still removes more copper. However, after Hoppe's those cleaners show no green or blue at all.

I found that skipping the copper cutter "pre-treatment" and just using the Hoppe's works just as well, and without the dangers to your bore or stock's finish that those copper cutters bring to the table. After dripping a bit on a couple stocks, ruining the finish and leaving ugly splotches I'm done with those caustic cleaners. It's Hoppe's for me, followed by CLP or FP10 used as oil.

I have not tried Butch's though.

January 20, 2008, 05:26 PM
I Normally use Hoppes, but recently the stores have been out of it so i'm using some RemOil & cheap Remington Solvent at the moment.

Isn't quite as good as Hoppes, but isn't to bad at all for the price.

Bad Penny 03
January 20, 2008, 05:36 PM
The guy on http://www.theboxotruth.com/ uses WD40. What do you guys think about using this?

Its great if you want to kill your primers.

January 20, 2008, 05:45 PM
For heavy lead i like to use J-B non imbeding bore compound and kroil for normal use i use hoppies but i am going to try eds red soon

January 20, 2008, 07:33 PM
hoppes and rem oil and sometimes ballisol- some kind of copper solvent every couple cleanings

Jeff F
January 20, 2008, 10:40 PM
Sweet's 7.62 for anything shooting jacketed or ball ammo, hoppes for every thing else.

XD-40 Shooter
January 20, 2008, 11:25 PM
Hoppe's #9 for me.:)

January 20, 2008, 11:32 PM
I clean my guns with CLP. I clean my Mosin Nagant (and when I purchase more commie guns) with Windex as soon as I get home from the range followed by CLP. The Corps taught me to use CLP and it works, so that's what I use.

B yond
January 21, 2008, 12:34 AM
Salt water.


January 21, 2008, 04:00 AM
Hoppes, Birchwood-Casey Sheath. If corrosive ammo suspected in the slightest, Hoppes, Windex.

Repeat next day.

Mr White
January 21, 2008, 09:50 AM
I use Hoppes, Breakfree Powderblast, & G96 Gun Treatment.

The guy on http://www.theboxotruth.com/ uses WD40. What do you guys think about using this?It works good as a cleaner, but I wouldn't use it as a lubricant.

January 21, 2008, 10:21 AM
I don't quite get this "tacticool" thing about Breakfree. Those who find using it as a single agent usually go into a rant. Something like, " the military...that's rich.... they don't know nothin about cleaning guns." Well I certainly have never cleaned my triggers with lighterfluid and such, but to each their own.

I personally use CLP, Hoppes and Barnes. Together they get me where I need to go. Would CLP work for benchrest?? Apparently not. Don't much care as I don't shoot micro MOA . I am happy with a .5 MOA with my primative cleaning techniques.

Breakfree works just fine for most of my applications. If I had just one product to use when the packing got light I would choose CLP. I was on a very dirty hunt in South Africa and was shooting what some would consider a very copper bullet....Barnes (insert sarcasm). I carried one product and it wasn't Butches.

I have no great love affair with CLP but if there is a better single, do all agent out there I am all ears. Yes, the military does have that part correct.

As far as seeing that "tacticool" breakfree at benchrest matches?? Never been to one. I am like 98% of the average shooters out there, I don't enjoy shooting any less because I didn't clean with a great obsession.

Wasn't the original post "What Do You Clean Your Weapons With?" I missed the part about what NOT to clean your weapons with.

January 21, 2008, 10:32 AM
Forgot to pass this on. I believe this mentions lead and copper removal properties of Breakfree as well as some other stuff. Interesting read.



BREAK-FREE CLP is not a miracle product. It contains no
magic ingredients. It was not conjured up in a secret cave by
long-forgotten tribesmen then discovered suddenly by smart
marketers and offered on late night TV.

But how BREAK-FREE CLP performs on firearms is nothing short
of miraculous, sometimes described as magical and is truly
mysterious to those who try to copy the formula.

In truth, BREAK-FREE CLP is a scientifically formulated
synthetic liquid specifically designed to do three important
tasks simultaneously.

1. Clean metal
2. Lubricate metal
3. Protect metal

BREAK-FREE CLP is made from a unique combination of
synthetic oils and other ingredients blended through a
proprietary series of processes developed by BREAK-FREE's
Technical Director Don Yoder. Both the ingredients and the
processes used to combine them are closely held secrets, and no
other product has been developed that duplicates either the
formula or the way it works.


Don Yoder developed BREAK-FREE in 1973 when he was running a
hard-anodizing and nickel plating operation where the constant
presence of sulfuric acid fumes caused rapid corrosion of metal.
Based on his extensive practical background in aeronautics and
oceanography applications for, Yoder wanted a product that would
be a superior lubricant and rust inhibitor, would penetrate to
the base metal and would last a long time. In addition, it had to
be safe both for the user and the environment. In his laboratory,
Yoder discovered that his combination of ingredients delivered
the performance he wanted only after they were combined, while
the individual ingredients by themselves did not. The synergism
is what makes BREAK-FREE CLP the effective product that it is.


To increase reliability and performance to reduce misfires
and malfunctions in various military weapons, the U.S. Army
issued in 1971 a "purchase description"--PD-48-- listing the
performance properties of a single, multi-purpose product to
clean, lubricate and protect weaponry. These included, in broad
terms, the following requirements:

1. It must easily remove firing residue, carbon
deposits and other contaminants during the
cleaning process, and prevent the rapid buildup of
subsequent deposits during firing which cause
malfunctions and weapon failure.

2. It must lubricate moving parts, including those
which bear a heavy load, and it must continue to
lubricate over long periods of time and use. At
the same time it must not be sticky or greasy so
as to attract dust, sand or dirt which would cause
malfunctions. As a weapons lubricant it must
function under all conditions - extreme heat or
cold, in mud, water, dust, etc.

3. As a corrosion preventative it must protect the
weapon and preserve it in a "grab-and-go"
condition in all climatic conditions - high
humidity, rain, snow, etc., and it must protect
the weapon against corrosion in field use, even in
extreme conditions such as salt water

The requirements were so severe that PD-48 became known as
the "impossible specification," and from 1971 nothing was found
to come even close to meeting its requirements, until BREAK-FREE
CLP was introduced.

The U.S. Military began testing BREAK-FREE CLP in 1976 and
for almost three years it carried out test after test in the
laboratories and in the field on weapons of all types from the
M16 rifle to 8 inch artillery howitzers, until finally, in 1979,
it was completely satisfied that BREAK-FREE CLP not only met the
"impossible specification," but even exceeded its requirements.


The U.S. Military then created a new cleaning, lubricating
and protection specification, MIL-L-63460, (largely based on PD-
48 and the exceptional performance of BREAK-FREE CLP), which set
out new and extremely high performance requirements for a single
product cleaner, lubricant and preservative and the test methods
by which to evaluate its performance.

BREAK-FREE CLP was approved by the U.S. Military to the MIL-
L-63460 specification, and since that time has been continuously
used as the primary maintenance product by the U.S. Army, Navy
and U.S. Air Force for cleaning, lubricating and preserving all
weapons...tanks, mortars, rifles, machine guns, or guns on

Since their introduction, MIL-L-63460 and BREAK-FREE CLP
have become recognized by Militaries around the world as the
standards by which to ensure the maximum performance and
protection of weapons and weapon systems, and both have been
adopted by 20 countries throughout the free world, including
NATO, which has given the specification the NATO number S-758.


The following countries are among those that have adopted
BREAK-FREE CLP to clean, lubricate and protect weapons from small
arms to naval guns: Austria, Belgium, Canada, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Holland, Italy, Norway, Sweden, Singapore, New
Zealand and U.S.A.


By using BREAK-FREE CLP to replace other cleaners,
lubricants and preservatives, the Military has achieved:

*Better and easier cleaning with fewer malfunctions
caused by accumulation of firing deposits.

*Improved and longer lasting lubrication for
improved weapon performance and reliability in
temperatures ranging from -50 C to +240 C --
increased mean time between failures.

*Weapons can be cleaned and left in a "grab-and-go"
condition. No need to remove grease or de-oil
before firing.

*Improved corrosion protection, in all climatic
conditions and environments.

*Easy, one step cleaning, lubricating and

*Because it can be done easily and quickly, weapon
maintenance is more likely to be done correctly.

*The soldier has to carry only one item in the
field for all his cleaning, lubricating and
preserving needs.

*The costs and burden are significantly reduced.

*The frequency of weapon maintenance can be

*Material and labor costs are reduced.

*The reliability, maintainability and dependability
of weapons is improved.

*Weapon life is extended.

*Combat readiness is improved.

In summary, BREAK-FREE CLP provides the most combat weapon,
able to function in all conditions and environments.

*It reduces the time and difficulty of weapon
cleaning, lubrication preservation.

*It lowers the frequency of weapon maintenance.

*It extends the life of the weapon.

*It improves the performance and reliability of a

*It reduces the cost by replacing 5 products.

And...it does it for less overall cost.

But perhaps the greatest benefit of all is that it may save
the life of the soldier or policeman who depends on his weapon to
work at all times.

It really no wonder that BREAK-FREE CLP is used by so many
Militaries and law enforcement agencies throughout the world.


While claims such as this are made by many other cleaners,
lubricants, preservatives and miscellaneous potions, and may
sound very convincing, BREAK-FREE CLP'S long association with and
acceptance by the Free World's armed forces proves the validity
of this report.

BREAK-FREE CLP is a balanced formula created from years of
development work combined with field testing to ensure that the
"balance" fulfills the user's needs.

Operation at low temperatures; corrosion resistance for
tropical climates; lubrication for all weather operation as well
as Bore cleaning were some of the required conditions to be met.
Each one working without detracting from another.

BREAK-FREE CLP has achieved this balance and offers the long
term values.

All of your own guns...handguns, rifles, shotguns,...should
be kept in peak condition by caring for them with BREAK-FREE CLP,
remember, however, that guns do not clean or lube themselves. Be
sure to clean and lubricate all working parts, chambers, actions
and barrels using proper techniques.

BREAK-FREE CLP can be applied to the bore of a firearm from
either end and should also be applied to the firing pin, bolt,
receiver, etc., of the rifles and shotguns. When cleaning a
handgun, apply a light coat of BREAK-FREE CLP to all surfaces of
the barrel, forcing cone and mechanical parts, as well as to the
magazine of an semi-automatic pistol if it is dirty or rusty. We
do not suggest spraying BREAK-FREE CLP on ammunition, even though
test reports on file show that BREAK-FREE CLP did not affect
primers on rounds soaked in it for two weeks.



Unlike degreaser-type bore cleaner, BREAK-FREE CLP
never leaves metal unprotected. This is why proper gun
care procedures caution against getting bore cleaner in
the action where they leave a dry, unlubricated residue
that can inhibit normal operation of working parts.
With BREAK-FREE CLP. the cleaning action goes right to
the base metal, undercutting contaminants including
powder residue, lead and copper fouling. It breaks
these contaminants free of the metal and lifts them
away. It leaves behind a barrier film that both
lubricates and protects the metal from corrosion. This
film will not attract dirt as regular gun oils do and
consequently will not permit firing residue to build up
on metal surfaces.


Because BREAK-FREE CLP last so long, it provides
superior lubrication for moving metal parts. Most other
oils and combination products evaporate so quickly,
virtually all protection is gone within hours. In the
case of heavier oils and wax-bearing compounds used for
lubrication, dirt and burnt powder are attracted to the
metal and a gummy residue is formed.


Corrosion is the enemy of all metals, and steel
used in firearms is very susceptible to rust because of
the often harsh environment firearms are used in.
BREAK-FREE CLP protects metal better than other gun
care products because its protection outlasts mineral
oil and wax based products. Salt-spray tests prove that
BREAK-FREE CLP protects metal in conditions far beyond
what the average hunter or shooter will put his firearm
through. Other products tested fail in a very short
time and leave the metal unprotected against rust.


Ordinary single-function solvents, even with vigorous
scrubbing, will not dislodge the solid particulate in the
microscopic striations of the metal surface, consequently leaving
some traces of contamination, dust, dirt, oils, water and

The bulk of popular consumer products use a combination of
solvents, waxes, and inexpensive mineral oils to provide
lubrication. While these provide some short term results, they
usually fail at the points where they are needed most. One of the
most popular lubricants and corrosion inhibitors for many
manufacturers is wax. Temperature changes and use causes was
formulations to undergo composition change that eventually
becomes gummy and forms varnish, lacquer-like residue.
Inexpensive mineral oils also have similar shortcomings. Mineral
oils of this type can break down under heat and pressure to form
a gummy sludge.

Another major flaw in many products is the tendency to focus
on one property, such as wear, at the expense of other
properties, such as corrosion prevention.


The military does not accept new proposals lightly,
particularly when it affects so many of the weapons they use.
Therefore, the testing and evaluation was undertaken in 3
distinct steps from 1976 through 1979.


BREAK-FREE CLP was an unknown. To provide some
history, many weapons were tested using BREAK-FREE CLP
to replace the standard lubricants. Handguns, rifles,
machine guns and Vulcan gatling guns were tested, each
with success.

In each case, the ease of use, ability to clean
the bore and lubricate the weapon showed there was


With the apparent success working on actual
weapons, the next step was to measure the various
properties and quantify them.

The only yardstick available was a purchase
description, PD-48, issued in May 1971, to describe a
multipurpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative for
use on small arms weapons. Eleven basic values were

1. Flash Point C(F)...........65.5 (150)

2. Pour Point C(F)............-59 (-75)

3. Shell 4-ball Scar dia......0.8 mm max.

4. Falex Wear Life............20 min. @ 250 lbs.

5. Falex Peak Load............1 min. @ 750 lbs.

6. Firing Residue Removal.....80% minimum

7. Primer Salts Removal.......No Corrosion

8. Metals Corrosion in milligrams per square centimeter


9. Humidity Cabinet...........900 hours min.

10.Salt Spray Cabinet........100 hours min.

11.Water Displacement and water stability..No Corrosion

This would later be expanded in MIL-L-63460 to include:

12.Viscosity at +40 C.............9 cst. min.

13.Viscosity at -54 C.............3700 cst. max.

14.Residue & fluidity -54 C.......Permit Movement

15.Chemical Agent Detector Paper..........No affect

16.Corrosion Protection From Propellant
Reaction....................No Corrosion

In each case, BREAK-FREE CLP met or exceeded the
requirements of PD-48, and eventually MIL-L-63460.

These tests are still used today in routine
quality control testing to guarantee the continuing
quality of BREAK-FREE CLP.


From the success in the Field Testing and the
Laboratory Testing, a controlled Gun Firing Test was

Since nothing existed to measure the value of the
lubricant, they used the original qualification tests
of the M16-A1 and M60 machine gun. BREAK-FREE CLP was
used on 3 M16-A1 rifles and 3 M60's while LSA (MIL-L-
460000) was used on an additional set of 3 each. The
testing was done in great detail. Endurance, sand &
dust, mud, low temperature, and a salt water dip were
all part of the program using the cyclic rate of fire
and failures to fire to develop the expected MTBF (Mean
Time Between Failure).

BREAK-FREE CLP proved to be far more reliable than
LSA, particularly in the salt water dip where CLP
showed a 400% improvement over LSA lubricant on the M60
machine gun.

The conclusion for the military was simple: A single product
to replace several, reducing inventory and saving on the cost of
logistics, coupled with an improved "Mean Time Between Failure."

The apparent success from informal field trials was now a
proven success with laboratory style gun firing supporting the
previous conclusions of field personnel.

BREAK-FREE CLP was approved in 1979 and began entering the
inventory in 1980 where it has now seen extensive service
worldwide for over 10 years.

January 21, 2008, 11:07 AM
I use Rem oil for some lubrication, and Outers Bore Cleaner for a foul bore, but mostly this, below.


Made this poster after I got my free sample, and discovered this stuff really does a great job, even when shooting bare lead.

January 21, 2008, 12:51 PM
I'm sure break free has a good public relations staff...

Any penetrating oil will eventually get "under" crud. Eventually. And it'll get some of it out. _Some_ of it. I'm sure that break free works fine on carbon. Then again, so do a lot of other things. Penetrating oils (such as stuff like WD-40, Kroil, and to an extent, Ed's Red) work by getting "into" areas and working stuff loose to be brushed out. But that takes TIME.

And since the majority of us are not humping the boonies, we can use what is best for our rifles. Reading through their stuff, they keep talking about "reliability" and such... Yeah, if you soak something in oil, it's probably going to remain reliable. What they don't talk about is accuracy. I'm sure it's fine for cleaning an M-16 bolt or a sloppy burst trigger group, but it's a compromise (and not all that good of one...) for cleaning a barrel. Then again, the army is NOT concerned with accuracy. They just want the boomstick to go "bang" every time.

As for lighter fluid? The fellow who told me to use it is named Arnold Jewell... But hey, you probably know a LOT more about trigger mechanisms than he does, right?

And, for what it's worth, I was in the Army... And I cleaned my rifle dutifully with break free... And hated it, because it took next to forever to get that old H&R to "inspection" status... My current AR-15s do not have chrome lined barrels, and do quite well with a diet of Butch's for copper and carbon, and spraycan oil for the lower receiver...

How many of you guys have bolt actions? How many have cleaned the lug area of the receiver? And how many of you use any sort of lube on the backs of the bolt lugs?

Jorg Nysgerrig
January 21, 2008, 12:52 PM
I clean mine with love.

Master Blaster
January 21, 2008, 01:08 PM
I like Mpro 7 products especially their cleaner.

This is now sold as Hoppes Elite cleaner and Hoppes elite field cleaner.

I havent found anything that works better at cleaning lead and carbon fouling, and its non toxic and has no fumes or carcinogens. It works much better than hoppes #9, on everything Except plastic wad fouling in my shotguns, that requires Hoppes 9 and a brush.

For copper I use Sweets 7.62. This is after many years and trying everything, I shoot alot of cast bullets so lead fouling removal is my #1 priority, the Hoppes elite / Mpro7 just makes the lead fall out of the barrel when I use a bronze brush with it, nothing else I have ever used comes close.

January 21, 2008, 01:23 PM
Hoppes for regular cleaning and once in a while sweets or a foaming bore cleaner for copper.

Chris Rhines
January 21, 2008, 01:37 PM
Bogie, as I don't shoot benchrest, let me understand something here. Are you saying that you clean the bore of your rifle every five rounds, during a match?

- Chris

January 21, 2008, 01:44 PM
Nope. After every target. Competition targets have two halves - the top is the "record" target, and the bottom is a "sighter." We are allowed to fire at the sighter to see where rounds will impact given the current conditions (wind, temperature, mirage, etc.).

I'll usually fire between 10-15 rounds while completing one record target. Maybe 20 if shooting a 10 shot unlimited group.

And I clean the rifle while reloading. Whole process pretty much takes under a half hour.

If you let the stuff build up, it starts affecting accuracy. And if you let it build up too much, it doesn't want to come out. And you have a barrel that _was_ capable of shooting sub 0.2" groups that now only gets inside 0.25" with extreme luck...

Claude Clay
January 21, 2008, 05:11 PM
my daughter just shy of her ccw but has 14 years of experience and her boyfriend who i ccw'ed last year has 3 years.
they get lots of hands on practice & lessons and i get clean guns.;)
both work the reloader (except for .40). i aint lazy; i am energy (mine) efficient.:)

Claude Clay
January 21, 2008, 05:12 PM

January 21, 2008, 05:37 PM
I agree with Armoredman. George Fennel's Weapon Shield is even better than his FP-10. Shooting USPSA, I haven't found the need for anything else.

January 21, 2008, 05:44 PM
Otis kit. Spray with MPro-7 and lube with Hoppes #9.

4v50 Gary
January 21, 2008, 05:46 PM

If its blackpowder, then hot soapy water.

January 21, 2008, 05:47 PM
Haven found anything better than Hoppe's Bench Rest Copper Solvent when cleaning the FAL of surplus. Other than that it's Hoppe's Elite or CLP for the normal stuff. Neither one is objectionable when used indoors. OTOH, Hoppe's BR Copper Solvent should only be used outdoors.:eek:DAYUM!

January 21, 2008, 06:18 PM
I use Monatana Extreme products almost exclusively. I have used shooters choice and it does well too. For general parts cleaning, Hoppes 9 or CLP is fine. I DO NOT USE any products in the barrel that have teflon or synthetics in them-over time they cause more harm than good. Montana Extreme, as well as others, have Bore oil that's available that doesn't contain any synthetics,silicones,or PTFE. For really stubborn jacket fouling, I use Sweet's or Montana Ext. 50BMG-they both do a great job of taking out the cooper fouling.
Sinclair (800-717-8211) is a great resource for cleaning products that are above what you find at WalMart, and the technical guys are really helpful for your individual questions and needs.
For rust protection, on everything but the bore, I have found that CLP or RemOil is hard to beat. They do both have synthetics that seem to be helpful in foul weather.
Hope this helps someone! :)

January 21, 2008, 06:33 PM
Oh, yeech - I got a sniff of that Montana Extreme once - I think I screamed like a girl... That stuff is NOT for indoor use...

(I think they named it Montana Extreme mostly to mess with Butch's head...)

January 21, 2008, 06:47 PM
" I don't use any products in the barrel that have teflon or synthetics...."
What happens when synthetics or teflons are used in the barrel? I hope it's not bad because the last thing I always leave in the barrel is teflon/synthetic.

January 21, 2008, 06:49 PM
Hoppes and G96.

January 21, 2008, 07:06 PM

Jacka L Ope
January 21, 2008, 07:13 PM
Do you smell that? Do you smell that? Hoppes, son! Nothing else in the world smells like that. I love the smell of Hoppes in the morning. :neener:


January 21, 2008, 08:20 PM
The additives, like PTFE, tends to embed, and cause problems. Plus, it NEVER embeds uniformly, so you'll get one area slicker than another, or "tighter" than another. Now, assuming you spent your good money on a select match air-gauged barrel, where everything's supposed to be perfect going down the bore, why screw it up?

Joe Demko
January 21, 2008, 08:29 PM

January 21, 2008, 11:34 PM
No teflons,ect..in the barrel is due to what "bogie" stated, plus I believe the stuff builds up carbon and cooper fouling more. Call Sinclair.....those guys can educate you a lot better than I on all the technical details around cleaning. Hope this helps!!!!!

May 5, 2008, 09:15 PM
I use only Gunzilla on all my firearms.

It has reportly cut weapons malfuntions in Iraq by 75%.

It has a long list of testimonials. from our hero who depend on their weapons for their lifes..that's good enough for me to try it.

I was sceptical at first but it produces as advertised.

(Below is from from its website)

Gunzilla contains no hazardous chemicals, is non flammable, and non-corrosive.
Gunzilla removes carbon, copper, lead, rust, plastic fouling and cleans corrosive ammo.
Gunzilla cleans carbon faster than traditional cleaners because it breaks the bond of the carbon molecules.
Gunzilla does not evaporate.
Gunzilla leaves a thin, slippery coating for lubrication and protection which reduces the collection of sand, dust and carbon when the gun is fired.
Gunzilla has a natural smell (plants) and it can be used in the home without driving everyone else out of the house.
Gunzilla removes old oils and previously applied cleaning solvents when cleaning.
Gunzilla leaves a coating that once it is wiped dry is not effected by cold or hot temperatures. In the liquid form Gunzilla turns into a light grease.
Gunzilla protects and displaces water on metal surfaces.
Godzilla is a superior lubricant and many shooters are now using it for reloading.
Gunzilla increases the number of rounds between cleanings.
Gunzilla can be used on shotguns, rifles, handguns, automatic guns and muzzleloaders.
Godzilla eliminates the need to use water for cleaning and oil for protecting when used on a muzzleloader
Godzilla is very effective in cleaning shotgun choke tubes, stainless steel guns, and the AR-15 bolt area.
Gunzilla is a superior protector because it removes the surface rust prior to the final coating.
Gunzilla has No hazardous chemical charges for disposing of empty bottles or used patches in landfills.
Gunzilla is the new gold standard for gun care.


March 12, 2009, 12:03 AM
Hoppes #9 & tetra
Casey's Gun Scrub for some gas tubes.

John Wayne
March 12, 2009, 12:47 AM
Its great if you want to kill your primers

Ironically, the guy from Box O' Truth did a test on this too. Let WD40 and some other oils/lubricants sit on primers for several months. All of them went bang.

Personally, I use disc brake cleaner for the action. For the bore, I use whatever I have on hand, Outer's foaming bore solvent works well for my needs.

March 12, 2009, 01:15 AM
used to use Hoppes, but now usually it's only CLP after every shooting trip.

My frequent shooters are all chrome-lined, so the worry about accuracy was gone once I paid for the gun.

March 12, 2009, 01:26 AM
Shooter's Choice and M-Pro 7 are what I've come to prefer.

March 12, 2009, 01:52 AM
I use Wipe Out's Patch Out mostly to clean the barrels. Sometimes use Hoppes 9 and mostly use it on shotguns. I then either lube it up with Outers oil or Rem Oil. I've switched recently to Rem Oil as it's soo much cheaper.

I sometimes use CLP as a lube but I don't often use it inside of the barrels as oil or anything like that.

The Wiry Irishman
March 12, 2009, 10:32 AM
I use Ballistol to clean carbon fouling and leading. That stuff is magic. My rifle gets Sweets down the bore every time its cleaned, and my pistols get it every 1000 or so jacketed rounds.

March 12, 2009, 10:43 AM
I mostly use hoppes, But on black powder and surplus shooting, Nothing beats boiling water and a bit of window cleaner. Then I just use gun oil to lube everything up

Straight Shooter
March 12, 2009, 10:52 AM
G96 Gun Treatment. It works well.


March 12, 2009, 11:19 AM
Breakfree CLP, but soon switching to Gunzilla! Also use a copper cleaning solvent in rifles.

March 12, 2009, 11:56 AM
Blue Wonder gun cleaner on the bore. CLP everywhere else.

March 12, 2009, 11:57 AM
Kerosene and 40 weight

March 12, 2009, 12:25 PM
I once tried the Blue Wonder and Mpro7 bore cleaners. I was VERY dissapointed. After patches came clean with blue wonder I ran a few patches soaked with good ol Hoppes #9. I got more fowling out. Same expierence with Mpro7.

For cleaning I use Butches Bore Shine for my rifle and Shooters Choice or Hoppes#9 for my pistols. I will use a copper solvent on my pistols about once a year.

March 12, 2009, 01:12 PM
First of all, I really appreciate the feedback on this thread.

However, I'm confused about the CLP discussion. Some have said that synthetics are bad, yet state a preference for BF CLP. I have a can in my hand and it says that it contains PTFE (Teflon).

What am I missing?

March 12, 2009, 01:34 PM
I love Breakfree CLP!

I've tried several different products and Breakfree works fast and does a fantastic job.

March 12, 2009, 01:48 PM
Kroil and breakfree CLP , hoppes for the smell :evil:
or what ever free crap i have on hand.

March 12, 2009, 08:13 PM
Like my father and grandfather before me, I've been a Hoppe's No. 9 man for more years than I care to admit (or think about). If your gun room doesn't smell like Hoppe's, it's not a real gun room. :)

March 12, 2009, 09:25 PM
Hoppe's. It's great stuff. It cleans guns and makes a great cologne!

Man, I've been telling my wife that for years. She doesn't agree.

March 12, 2009, 10:03 PM
Soapy water for my black powder rifles.

Hoppes #9 for my nitro guns.

I'm not 100% convinced that every last molecule of copper needs to be removed every time I shoot. In fact, I think excessive cleaning could cause damage.

Gracian's Hero
March 12, 2009, 11:32 PM
Tetra & bore snakes

Zach S
March 13, 2009, 09:40 AM
Brake cleaner, elbow grease, various brushes, boresnakes, shop towels, and four letter words. In one case, I had to use a sandblasting cabinet.

I'm not much on cleaning my guns.

March 13, 2009, 11:33 AM
Carb cleaner, tooth brush, Q-tips, cloth t-shirts....

March 13, 2009, 11:38 AM

The Avatar of Time
March 16, 2009, 06:23 AM
Soapy water for my black powder rifles.

I have a cousing that uses that method on his black powder rifles too. I've never tried it though.

I have to agree with the Hoppe's lovers. It's the best smelling stuff made, as well as an excellent product. My mother hates the smell of it, but then, she's insane. :)

I have some other solvents, Bore-Tech copper solvent for one, and it smells terrrible. It's like amonia, one big whiff will about knock me out :eek:

Anyway, on to what I clean my guns with:

While I use whatever I can get when I have to, the stuff I normally keep around is:

For solvents:
Hoppe's No.9 Copper Solvent (best.thing.ever.)
Hoppe's No.9 Solvent (great, but I fail to see the point of it if you can get copper solvent?)
Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber, Spray Can (excellent for tight places)
Bore-Tech Copper Remover (okay, smells terrible and leaves a sticky feel though)

For lubricants:
Rem-Oil (very good, perhaps a bit thin)
Bore-Tech Gun Oil (also quite good, for pistol slides I think I prefer it)
Hoppe's No.9 Lubricating Oil, Spray Can (good if perhaps a bit thin, but then, it's spray so it about has to be)
Wipes Plus Gun Oil Wipes (these are good, but I think I'll get the Rem-Oil ones next time)
Gunslick Anhydrous Graphite (not sure if I like this stuff yet, just got it recently)
CLP (not fond of it, I'll elaborate below. Only have it because a gun dealer gave me a little bottle.)

Air Duster (great for drying solvent that you can't get to with a rag or q-tip, and also for blowing the little bit of fuzz left by q-tips out of wherever)
Soft Bristle Tooth Brush (for scrubbing.....)
Q-Tips (for hard to reach spots)
Bore Brushes (obviously.....)

I can't see the point in using CLP as a cleaner unless it's all you have. You'll have to scrub forever to get something off that copper solvent would almost wipe off. I don't think it's probably too bad for a lubricant though. I still don't really care to use it however. We had to use CLP in boot camp. The whole reason you spend half of your day there scrubbing your rifle is because the stuff is ineffective as a cleaner. I didn't realize just how poor of job it did cleaning until I compared it to copper solvent. However, if you like the stuff then that's great too. It's all about preferences.

I think WD-40 is a terrible thing to use on a gun. My Great Grandmother insisted on having her guns cleaned with it. In my experience anything WD-40 is used on is bad to gunk up fast.

July 15, 2009, 02:47 AM
Lots of kerosene mixed with a little atf fluid and mobile 1 synthetic 5W 30. soak the whole thing scrub with a brush, blow every thing out with air and wipe down with a old tee shirt. Once its all clean and dry I lube the vital areas with hoppes 9 however I bet any oil would work fine.

July 15, 2009, 03:50 PM
I like to use Hoppe's 9. I fell in love with the smell back in the 60's. Lately I have been using Gunzilla and I am really impressed with it. Low odor (smells like whiskey) and remove rust, lead, copper, plastic, and carbon.

July 15, 2009, 04:09 PM
hoppe's and a rem oil

July 15, 2009, 08:09 PM
Mainly Hoppes!

July 15, 2009, 08:35 PM
Outers foaming bore cleaner for the bore, along with a bore snake. Limited use of Hoppes #9 as needed to remove powder residue, but it's not usually necessary if the gun was well lubricated to start with. I would use CLP but absolutely despise the smell (don't care for the smell of Hoppes either, but at least it dissipates quickly).

I use Mobil 1 as the primary gun oil, Tetra or Shooters Choice gun grease as needed, and Rem Oil to make blued finishes shine.

July 15, 2009, 09:49 PM
I notice that some folks here seem refer to cleaning their gun as merely cleaning and lubricating the action, with seemingly very little thought to the bore.

I guess I have always put more emphasis on the bore.

When my son was in police sniper school, IIRC, they were taught to use one part Kroils, one part Shooters' Choice and one part J-B. I still have a bottle that he gave me afterwards and it works wonders cleaning the bore.

Friendly, Don't Fire!
May 2, 2011, 01:56 PM
Back in the 80's, I used Hoppes 9 to clean the guns and I would also wipe them down with Hoppes 9 and it left a thin coating of oil-type film that one could wipe off with a clean rag, even a year later.

Did Hoppes change the formula of the #9 in some way? Any more, it seems I clean my gun well, then wipe it down with Hoppes 9 and about 6 months later I pull my gun off the rack and there is a sticky brownish residue on the metal where it used to be oily. The only way to remove this sticky stuff is with more hoppes.

Does Hoppes 9 leave such a sticky residue and/or does cheap gun oil leave that kind of residue?

I have about a quart of Break Free. I think I am going to go back to that.

May 2, 2011, 02:36 PM
Hoppes and the foamy copper-removing stuff (can't remember the name, only use it once in a great while) for the barrel.

Rubbing Alcohol and Rem oil for cleaning the rest of the gun

CLP for lubricating.

May 2, 2011, 02:59 PM
clean with Hoppes, and lube with Militech

Friendly, Don't Fire!
May 2, 2011, 03:16 PM
OK, thanks a bunch!;)

May 2, 2011, 03:47 PM
Primarily, good ol' Hoppes#9.
works for me.

May 2, 2011, 09:06 PM
Brake cleaner, Break Free and Mobil 1 50wt. I use clenzoil for fine rifles and shotguns aka safe and range queens. I did an experiment with Mobil 1 on one AR for 5000 Rd's. It wipes clean pretty easy and had zero problems so far.

May 2, 2011, 09:10 PM
I clean this way:

Windex/ ammonia D on a cotton patch in a bore guide jag once, twice and then once dry. Repeat until clean

Rem oil on all moving parts, oiled patch down barrel.

When lead settles in, use of hoppes is sometimes needed.

May 2, 2011, 09:35 PM
In 50 years of shooting and cleaning guns of all kinds, I have used almost every solvent out there. My primary solvent is now Gunzilla, Seems that every time I clean, it gets easier, seems to make the barrel turn loose of the crud and metal fouling a lot easier. If it needs a little extra lube such as my AR, just a few drops of Mobil 1.


May 3, 2011, 09:01 AM
Gunscrubber for the hard stuff, and a combination of CLP and the Tetra products for the rest.

Carl N. Brown
May 3, 2011, 09:22 AM
Somethings don't change over the years.
Hoppes #9 for cleaning, Breakfree CLP for lube and protectant.
If only room for one bottle in the carry kit, it's CLP.

I am not afraid occassionally to use WD40 for cleaning and exterior wipe-on wipe-off protection, but WD40 is not a lubricant.*

* Squirt a little WD40 in a tin, set it up, and check it ever so often: as the solvent evaporates, the protectant becomes gummy and wax-like: you don't want that inside a mechanism.

May 16, 2011, 08:58 PM
Breakfree or WeaponShield CLP on a patch wrapped around a stiff bristled toothbrush for the action while the barrel is soaking in CLP. Once action (or slide on handgun) is done, 4-5 passes with the correct size Bore Snake. Can clean handguns in 5-7 minutes and long guns in 10 minutes.

May 16, 2011, 09:55 PM
Hoppes and Ballistol (Different guns)

May 17, 2011, 09:15 AM
Hoppes #9 and Break Free.

May 18, 2011, 03:36 AM
Hoppes no9 for most cleaning. To clear out significant copper foulingl, KG12. To lubricate, Hoppes oil.

That's it. To this day, I have not seen a single copper solvent on par with KG12. you can put a soaked patch in a bore that has actual jacket fragments pressure-fused to the rifling, and it will be gone by that time tomorrow.

May 18, 2011, 06:46 AM
WD-40 or Rem-oil. Whatever is closer. I shoot mostly lead and have not seen any lead fouling.

May 18, 2011, 06:46 AM
Quick spray down with WD-40, then Hoppes No. 9 and RemOil when I'm done.

May 18, 2011, 02:51 PM
WD-40 unless I'm shooting corrosive, then it's household ammonia and then WD-40. Aftercoat with regular motor oil. Nuthin' fancy.

May 18, 2011, 03:43 PM
I have found that Breakfree does a wonderful job of cleaning, lubing and protecting copper fouling, but it sure doesn't remove it. I used sweets or Butches to remove copper, and a proper lube for lubrication.

May 18, 2011, 04:05 PM

May 18, 2011, 04:33 PM

Chris "the Kayak-Man" Johnson

June 5, 2011, 07:59 PM
? I used brake free for my 795 as lub but this stuff seems to never dry and after shooting all the powder and such sticks to the inside of my gun is this normal?

June 5, 2011, 08:44 PM

June 5, 2011, 08:47 PM
Hoppes #9 and Rem Oil if I need it. RIG for metal duties. Has done me right since day one.

June 5, 2011, 08:51 PM
Corrosive Ammo I use Windex and sometimes break cleaner or hoppe's #9 copper solvent and Breakfree CLP as a lube and rust preventive. Windex on everything then dry and CLP. Normal non corrosive ammo cleaning, (depending on how much shooting I am doing with a particular firearm) I will run Hops #9 down the barrel let it sit for a while and check for color of swab to see if there is more action required. If no fouling then swab with Breakfree CLP clean and lube as usual.
All my rifles and pistols get the same treatment with no problems that I have detected.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html is a test run with different lubes in a salt environment enough said!.

There are many good products available and on a good day I could afford some of the more dedicated gun lube products. My personal experience with the Breakfree CLP is it has not let me or my friends down. Years of no rust or problems for us so why change.

June 5, 2011, 09:04 PM
Balistol for everything, wax on the outside. Car axle grease for slides and certain parts.

June 5, 2011, 10:05 PM
For cleaning, my version of Ed's Red: 50/50 mix of Kroil and Amsoil synthetic ATF fluid.

For lubrication: a mix of the last of my old CLP and Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic motor oil.

For rifles, I'll sometimes us the non-embedding bore paste someone mentioned earlier (got it from Brownell's years ago).

June 5, 2011, 10:50 PM
Slip2000 EWL for everything, Glocks, AR15, 12Ga

June 6, 2011, 08:01 AM
I clean my 'weapon' with the same stuff I clean my 'plinking', 'target', and 'general-messing-around' firearms.


Friendly, Don't Fire!
June 6, 2011, 08:35 AM
Hoppes 9 and CLP-BreakFree

June 6, 2011, 10:18 PM
I used to use CLP but found a better product, IMHO. I donít like the way it continues to ooze out of any opening it can find. I now use Gun Scrubber (synthetic) to clean my guns and Gun Butter to lube them. As an example, I just took a week of training at Front Sight, four days of handgun and two days of rifle. I lubed my 1911 and my M4 about a month before leaving. I did a quick test fire of both at my local range before I left but didn't clean either. I went the whole week without even wiping either gun between each session and never had so much as a FTF or FTE the whole time. Iím talking about 500 rounds of .45acp and about 200 rounds of 5.56. I am really sold on the product. And no, Iím not associated with the company.

george d dennis
June 6, 2011, 10:24 PM
hoppes and rig grease

June 6, 2011, 11:21 PM

One word - Eezox


June 6, 2011, 11:51 PM

One word - Eezox


I used to use Eezox also and it is great stuff but like CLP it too seeps out of any opening it can find. Gun Butter stays where it's put.

June 7, 2011, 12:03 AM
fyi,wd-40 should not be used around firearms.it penetrated and kills primers.as far as cleaning my glocks and stainless ruger black powder pistols.i diassemble them and place them in the utencil tray of the dishwasher,pop in a blue electrasol tablet, and let it rip.rem oil to finish

June 7, 2011, 12:32 AM
Hoppes 9 and/or Breakfree Powderblast depending on the circumstance. I also have a can of Breakfree CLP that I don't use too much anymore, but do on occasion.

Primary lube is WeaponShield. I use Dexron VI ATF on my shotgun. I also have some Mobil 1 5w20 left over that I used to use on my shotgun. No complaints; that action moved like melted butter with M1.

With my handguns, thoguh, I usually just use WeaponShield to clean and lube. Once in a while I'll pull out the Hoppes, but WS does a pretty ok job of keeping things easy to clean if you clean it after each or every other range session.

June 7, 2011, 08:00 AM
I used to use Eezox also and it is great stuff but like CLP it too seeps out of any opening it can find. Gun Butter stays where it's put.

See, that's why I like it. I know it's oozing *into* places as well as out.

Hocka Louis
June 8, 2011, 12:46 PM
In Afghanistan I use a contract-worker who gets his picture taken in surplus digicamo and lies to everyone in the US, where he couldn't keep a job if his life depended on it, that he is still in the Army.

June 8, 2011, 01:27 PM
After working retail for a long time and then manufacturing I've had a chance to try just about everything out there. When it comes down to spending my own money for the best product out there it's Slip2000 hands down every time.

Just One Shot
June 8, 2011, 02:10 PM
You mean you're suppose to clean them?

I use Hoppe's #9. I've been using it for years and I don't see any reason to stop now.

As far as lube goes, it varies between Weapon Shield, Rem lube and Castrol 5w50 full synthetic engine oil.

June 8, 2011, 02:17 PM
i vary what i use. i was told by 3 seperate gunsmiths, that did not know each other, that changing up your cleaning soultion will get more junk out of your firearm(s). the reason being that while product "x" is really good at one thing, it may not be so good at another. once a year, i go through all the guns, and give them a deep cleaning. i run no less than 4 different soloutions through each one. i get more junk every time. the vast majority of my cleaning is done with ed's red, and sweets 7.62 if i have been shooting a lot of copper bullets. i know i have on the shelf; ed's red, ed's red + (with ammonia & other things for copper removal), hoppes #9, Hoppes #9 bench rest, hoppes copper terminator, something from outers, butches bore shine, JB bore paste, and Sweet's 7.62. i probably have more, but not off the top of my head. i make up the ed's red by the gallon. it is my go to solvent to get the worst of the junk out of the barrel of whatever i have been shooting.

June 8, 2011, 03:09 PM
This is what my cleaning kit consists of:

Old towel
9mm bore snake
A brush
CLP or Hoppes
Ear cleaners

That's about it.

June 9, 2011, 07:31 PM
Brake Cleaner (Red Can) and a S.S. Brush, Gets them clean every time.......

June 10, 2011, 05:51 PM
great article on lubes by Grant Cunningham


http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=545607 Testing gun lubes

Some of us are to stubborn to change even when faced with facts that are contrary to our cherished long held beliefs.

June 10, 2011, 05:54 PM
Carbeurator Cleaner for the barrel and bolt and such, then a good coat of 90 meight motor oil for water repulsion. Since I don't have gallons of CLP anymore at my disposal.

June 10, 2011, 10:00 PM
fyi,wd-40 should not be used around firearms.it penetrated and kills primers.as far as cleaning my glocks and stainless ruger black powder pistols.i diassemble them and place them in the utencil tray of the dishwasher,pop in a blue electrasol tablet, and let it rip.rem oil to finish
Here's an interesting read on the subject of primers and oil (http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot39.htm). Their results showed that, at least in their test, casual oil use won't spoil primers (and their test wasn't casual; they left little puddles on the primers for days and experienced no weak or ruined rounds in their test), though it's still not a good idea to get careless with it.

I use Ballistol to clean and Hoppe's oil to lube.

June 21, 2011, 08:50 PM
Soap and water. But my guns I clean with copper solvent, hoppes, and lube.

June 21, 2011, 09:27 PM
Shooter's Choice, Cleanzoil, or brake cleaner - depending on the application and area

Followed up with Hoppe's gun oil, RemOil, or similar before being put away

June 21, 2011, 10:54 PM
Hoppes # 9 and Rem Oil....

Deus Machina
June 21, 2011, 11:46 PM
Everything but my Mosin Nagant gets Hoppe's #9, then CLP or Syntech 10w-30, depending how I feel and what gun it is.

Ivan gets Wal-mart special janitorial ammonia down the barrel first. The water base--and the ammonia helps, IMO--neutralizes the corrosive salts, the ammonia helps break down any copper fouling, and the surfactant helps loosen out crud. It gets dried, then it gets a patch or two of #9, a dry patch, and a patch of Hoppe's oil. The boltface gets cleaned with the ammonia, then it gets wiped down and a couple drops of whatever lubricant's lying around.

June 22, 2011, 09:35 AM
I tried denatured alcohol last night. Worked incredibly well.

June 23, 2011, 03:56 AM
Hoppes #9 and some old surplus GI cleaning stuff that literally came from the Vietnam era.

I use Hoppes for the barell and cylinder. Everything else gets cleaned with the GI stuff and either pipe cleaners or a tooth brush. The gun shoots accurate and nothing is showing unusual signs of wear.

The GI stuff actually came from my granpa's kit he was issued in Vietnam. I still have the bag with the official stenciling on it. I only wish I had a 1911 to clean with it. He swore by the 1911 after it saved his rear in a number of tunnels.

June 23, 2011, 11:05 AM
WD-40 and 3-In-One Oil

June 23, 2011, 12:33 PM
Ballistol, Hoppes and MP7

June 23, 2011, 12:42 PM
fyi,wd-40 should not be used around firearms.it penetrated and kills primers.as far as cleaning my glocks and stainless ruger black powder pistols.i diassemble them and place them in the utencil tray of the dishwasher,pop in a blue electrasol tablet, and let it rip.rem oil to finish

My dad has used WD-40, not to clean, but to protect the non-moving metal parts of his guns for 40+ years. Not a single one of them has a spec of visible rust on them, not a single one of them fails to eject or feed. I don't recall any of the center fires ever failing to fire either....over thousands and thousands of shots. The only duds I have experienced are in rim-fires with cheap ammo.

I personally clean my bores with either Outers or Hoppes solvents..sometimes both. Ony my rifles, I wipe the exteriors with Rem Oil or CLP. If I am going to store them, I might run a Rem Oil patch down the barrel. On my polymer pistol, I take a cotton swab and a bottle of rubbing alchol and go over the entire frame....Then I soak a pach in hoppes, put it down the barrel and let it sit for 10-15 minute, then I will go over the slide with hoppes to cut the power residue, then I will wipe that off with rubbing alcohol, spray on some CLP and wipe that over the frame and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then wipe it dry.

Then I take out the hoppes soaked patch from the barrel, go down with a dry patch, that will usually come out with black and a tiny bit of blue. Repeat until the bore is shiny and the black on the patches is almost non existent, spray CLP in the bore, go through with a few more dry patches, then finish with a CLP soaked patch.

June 23, 2011, 01:08 PM
Everyone in my family has used WD-40 and 3In1 oil as long as I can remember with no problems but seeing post after post testifying about Hoppe's I may make a switch and save the WD-40 for wiping down the externals. I'd hate to be doing damage to my firearms without realizing it.

October 13, 2011, 09:51 PM
i use weapon shield exclusively on all my S&W revolvers

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