All In One Gun Cleaners/Lube


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Fish828
January 20, 2008, 12:20 AM
Recently, I was looking around for a new cleaning kit for my gun and I found that most kits now contain what they call an all-in-one solution that is supposed to both clean and lubricant the gun. My old kits that I have had have both the cleaning solvent and lubricant, each to be applied separately. I know that you can apply something after the all-in-one cleaner like Rem Oil. I was wondering everyone's thoughts on this changeover. I personally like cleaning my gun with a solvent separately and then applying the lubricant. For some reason, it just feels more thorough and satisfying to me.

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boalex207
January 20, 2008, 12:50 AM
cleans and lubricates. One stop shopping :D

nosliw
January 20, 2008, 12:53 AM
i'm a huge fan of break free CLP

cleaner
lubricant
rust inhibitor

hondapro
January 20, 2008, 12:56 AM
Try some weapon shield you can find it here http://www.steelshieldtech.com/ I have been using it and am pleased with it.I use hoppes solvent to clean and then I lube with weapon shield.IMHO rem oil is not a good lubricant,it may be a good rust preventive but is not a good lubricant.

skinewmexico
January 20, 2008, 12:57 AM
Ick. Jack of all trades, master of none. The military decision to go to CLP was for simplicity in the quartermasters department, not because it outperformed individual items.

I bet your wife doesn't even use an all-in-one cleaner around your house for everything.

gunman42782
January 20, 2008, 01:02 AM
I have never been a fan of supposed all in one cleaners. I use Hoppe's #9 to get powder fouling out, and when it looks pretty clean I start with a good copper cleaner. I use one from Pro-Shot Products, and it works good. When it finally comes out clean, then I use Kroil or CLP.

thebaldguy
January 20, 2008, 01:44 AM
I think all in one clp works; I don't think it works as well as using solvent and a lube/protectant.

dfariswheel
January 20, 2008, 09:34 PM
CLP Breakfree and the other "cleaner-lubes" have little to no effect on copper fouling in the bore.

While you "can" use one product to clean and lube a weapon, the "C" part of CLP Breakfree is actually misunderstood.
What it actually does is prevent fouling in the action from hardening and slowing operation.
The CLP keeps the fouling soft and the action "sweeps" it out of the way, allowing the weapon to continue to function.

You're better off using a real bore solvent for bores and for cleaning other parts.
I think you should use a solvent to clean and a lubricant to lubricate.
It's near impossible to get one that does both really well.
Most of them do a good job of lubricating and only a so-so job of cleaning.

mainebear
January 20, 2008, 10:25 PM
Using a good bore/action cleaner then CLP works well for me.

tyesai
January 21, 2008, 08:03 AM
Ick. Jack of all trades, master of none. The military decision to go to CLP was for simplicity in the quartermasters department, not because it outperformed individual items.

I bet your wife doesn't even use an all-in-one cleaner around your house for everything.

My wife uses bleach, I use CLP.


Your theory is debunked.

Mad Magyar
January 21, 2008, 09:53 AM
I don't think it works as well as using solvent and a lube/protectant.

+1 on that.....

RustyShackelford
January 22, 2008, 11:23 AM
You may want to consider the Hoppes brand elite field cleaner. The website/ads state the use this CLP on USAF fighter jets and military weapons, ;). The M-Pro7 looks good too. It works as a CLP and is availble by web/mail order. I used FP-10 for a few years. It's OK but not great as a CLP. The Slip2000 line sells firearm cleaning agents. This is highly rated but all natural. I've never used Slice2000 products but if you are interested it's worth a look.

Here are some good sources;
www.hoppes.com www.natchezss.com www.slip2000.com www.cheaperthandirt.com www.brownells.com .

Take care of your weapons and they will take care of you, :D.

Rusty S

1BLINDREF
January 22, 2008, 11:45 AM
I use CLP and then lube.

BobbyQuickdraw
January 22, 2008, 03:05 PM
I'm not all that experienced in gun cleaning and all I've personally known is All-In-Ones.

mpmarty
January 22, 2008, 04:27 PM
Hoppes #9 for powder fouling first. The Sweets 7.62 or Butches bore shine for the copper and when the bore is completely clean either mil tec grease or oil depending on anticipated storage duration. Exterior is wiped down with #9 and then treated with the corresponding mil tec oil or grease. I feel the rem oil and ezox are too thin to provide the level of protection needed CLP is not a good cleaner and because it has some mild cleaning properties is not as good a preservative as those without the cleaners. It's like car polish use a good cleaner and then pure carnauba wax.

DawgFvr
January 22, 2008, 06:13 PM
They all work just fine. I used shaving cream, WD-40 and CLP on M16 for a couple of decades...never had a problem.

Average Joe
January 22, 2008, 06:34 PM
Been using CLP for years.

Rinspeed
January 22, 2008, 10:42 PM
I used CLP for years but switched to FP-10 not to long ago.

OldCowHand
January 23, 2008, 01:16 AM
I've recently been introduced to Gunzilla (http://topduckproducts.com/), and like it: cleans and lubes well, but leaves surfaces dry rather than sticky-greasy and dirt-trapping like oil-based products. I'm also somewhat chemically sensitive, and although I love the smell of Hoppe's #9 (great associations with hunting trips through the years), these days I can handle prolonged exposure only in a well-ventilated area. Gunzilla is plant-based, no petroleum products (and no water, either -- in fact, it displaces water nicely), and I can handle it indoors in winter without having to open doors and windows.

loop
January 23, 2008, 04:26 AM
I use Windex on the bore followed by CLP. Learned the Windex trick on milsurps with corrosive primers. Ammonia neutralizes fulminate of mercury in old primers. It also is hell on lead and powder residue. It must be completely dried within about five minutes because ammonia can etch steel. Also wipe down outside with Windex and follow it up with CLP.
Use Tetra grease on metal-to-metal contact parts as final lube. Wouldn't recommend grease where it gets below freezing, but it rarely does that where I live.
Also rub Tetra grease into exposed metal surfaces with porous finishes like phosphate and powder coats. It stays, penetrates and protects quite well.
Biggest problem with Windex is the wife knows its in my cleaning kit and if she needs Windex she raids my kit...

Walkalong
January 23, 2008, 09:11 AM
I just cleaned a SS 686 last night. I soaked the crane and cylinder over night in Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. I wiped the forcing cone, etc with it as well and let it sit overnight. The next evening (so I guess it was longer than overnight) I used a toothbrush and easily brushed off 99% of the carbon and powder fouling. I soaked the bore as well and it came squeaky clean. The stuff works.

I like Butches Bore Shine and Shooters Choice for all around bore cleaners. I like Bore Techs Eliminator for copper. I like Carbon Cutter for, naturally, carbon.

The same folks make M-Pro 7 and Hoppes Elite bore cleaners and oil. I like the M-Pro 7 oil, as well as a couple of others.

Captain Insano
January 23, 2008, 10:17 AM
Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) = synthetic Whale Oil

Like others on here though I prefer to use a multitude of products, none of which are advertised as for guns.

1. 15w40 Mobile One - lube
2. Mineral Spirits - cleaner, solvent
3. Marvel Mystery Oil - GREAT bore cleaner and barrel preservative.
4. 80w90 Gear Lubricant - heavy lube for reloading press
5. Simoniz 500 series liquid car wax - my guns NEVER rust and I can handle them constantly without EVER having to "wipe them down" afterward.

I have also had good luck with foaming bore cleaners when I do use gun products. Ballistol is also great, but why not just wax your gun once and then you won't have to keep reapplying it?

Bad luck with CLP. CONSTANTLY had to re-apply to prevent rust.

One benefit of these CLP's is that you will clean your guns more often since you can more easily afford it. I've used these products for years and have yet to buy a refill for any of them, and I've done a LOT of gun cleaning.

qbpc
January 23, 2008, 10:37 AM
I use FP-10 and have for 15 years. I also have some Hoppes for copper fouling and nasty stuff.
BB

mainebear
January 23, 2008, 09:10 PM
Capt. Insano: Nice ideas. I like em. Especially the liquid wax. Really works well huh? Got to try it.

By the way, Whats FP-10?

ulflyer
January 25, 2008, 09:31 AM
G96. Spray can, cleans and lubes. Protects well. Use it
regularly. Smells good too! :)

sandwich
January 25, 2008, 11:51 AM
Recently, I was looking around for a new cleaning kit for my gun and I found that most kits now contain what they call an all-in-one solution that is supposed to both clean and lubricant the gun. My old kits that I have had have both the cleaning solvent and lubricant, each to be applied separately. I know that you can apply something after the all-in-one cleaner like Rem Oil. I was wondering everyone's thoughts on this changeover. I personally like cleaning my gun with a solvent separately and then applying the lubricant. For some reason, it just feels more thorough and satisfying to me.

Like a few posters here, I am not a fan of the all in one cleaners. I use Hoppe's and then Remington gun oil. It works for me, but everyone has their own tastes. Use what works for you, unless of course it is proven that one method is superior to the other.

mausgun
January 25, 2008, 02:17 PM
Ed's Red
Two parts 10% Janitor's Ammonia to one part Ivory Dishwashing Liquid
Valvoline Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
Johnson's Paste Wax
Moosemilk (9:1 water/Ballistol mix) for black powder

See here: frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Snarlingiron
January 25, 2008, 02:38 PM
I warsh 'em down with liquid Tide. On small guns I use Woolite, 'cause I don't want 'em to shrink any more. Then I ranch 'em with hot water, dry 'em in the oven and coat 'em real good with bacon grease. They never fail me, and they smell like breakfast. For bores in the .30 cal range, I stuff a 1" piece of Slim Jim (regular, not the one with cheese) in the bore, and push it through with a jag. Removes coper and lead, and I feed it to my dog when I am done, so I don't have to throw it away. Then, when I get to the range, I put all of the guns on the bench and dance around it while swinging a chicken over my head and singing Cumbaya. I never miss.

langenc
January 25, 2008, 02:47 PM
Without walking downstiars, I believe steelshield is the 'newer one' and they will send you a sample just for the request.

sandwich
January 25, 2008, 02:48 PM
I warsh 'em down with liquid Tide. On small guns I use Woolite, 'cause I don't want 'em to shrink any more. Then I ranch 'em with hot water, dry 'em in the oven and coat 'em real good with bacon grease. They never fail me, and they smell like breakfast. For bores in the .30 cal range, I stuff a 1" piece of Slim Jim (regular, not the one with cheese) in the bore, and push it through with a jag. Removes coper and lead, and I feed it to my dog when I am done, so I don't have to throw it away. Then, when I get to the range, I put all of the guns on the bench and dance around it while swinging a chicken over my head and singing Cumbaya. I never miss.

If you're going to post crap, can you at least make it funny?

sgt127
January 25, 2008, 02:51 PM
I'll bet alot of those old guns, that are still working like a champ, never saw anything more high tech than Hoppes #9 and 3 in 1 Oil. I use whatever is laying around at the time. Often its an old surplus rifle bore cleaner or Hoppes. Ballistol is a good all purpose cleaner, lube and rust preventative. Break Free works like a chap and Marvel Mystery oil is damned good. I think Marvel Mystery oil is pretty much the American equivelent of Ballistol for Germans. They have both been around a very long time, and, both do a dandy job.

I'm quite sure you can pick and choose specific products that will save you a little time here and there, might protect a tiny bit better than the other or might be a slightly superior lube in certain situations, but, I think its a trivial difference. As long as you maintain your guns in a reasonable manner with almost any decent product, I'm not sure you will see much difference in the long run.

gym
January 25, 2008, 02:55 PM
Break Free, if you can find some Tri flo, that was the best, it coated the gun with a silicone type lubricant, but I can't find it anyware, someone at the gun show said the company went out of business, I'll have to try that clp, since so many guys like it, the wax is an interesting idea also.

BikerRN
January 25, 2008, 03:05 PM
Quote:
I warsh 'em down with liquid Tide. On small guns I use Woolite, 'cause I don't want 'em to shrink any more. Then I ranch 'em with hot water, dry 'em in the oven and coat 'em real good with bacon grease. They never fail me, and they smell like breakfast. For bores in the .30 cal range, I stuff a 1" piece of Slim Jim (regular, not the one with cheese) in the bore, and push it through with a jag. Removes coper and lead, and I feed it to my dog when I am done, so I don't have to throw it away. Then, when I get to the range, I put all of the guns on the bench and dance around it while swinging a chicken over my head and singing Cumbaya. I never miss.

If you're going to post crap, can you at least make it funny?

I thought it was funny. I guess some people don't have much of a sense of humor.

Snarlingiron
January 25, 2008, 03:26 PM
If you're going to post crap, can you at least make it funny?

You're right, some of the posts prior to mine were funnier.

mausgun
January 25, 2008, 06:28 PM
Never mind...

kmrcstintn
January 25, 2008, 07:34 PM
hoppes 9 for powder/lead, barnes cr-10 intermittently for copper, spray solvent to get rid of stuff that ran into the workings, dry patch, patch lubed w/ kleenbore formula 3 'clp' to remove loose stuff left behind, dry patch again

kleenbore formula 3 for overall lubrication, oiling older wood grips, and overall surface protection

19-3Ben
January 25, 2008, 08:16 PM
I use some sort of military surplus crapola that is GREAT. it comes in a small green bottle with a black screw cap and some print on the front of the bottle with the military codes and whatnot.
I love this stuff. Cleans beautifully and lubes really nicely. Although I do use remoil when I finish off a cleaning just to be sure.

mljdeckard
January 25, 2008, 09:10 PM
I stole a gallon of CLP from the army the first time I got out, and I thought I was a fan of it until I actually tried real bore cleaners, particularly Hoppe's #9 and foaming agents. ("WOW. So THAT'S how it's supposed to work!")

Now I use Hoppe's and or gunscrubber to do the heavy cleaning, wipe and dry as thoroughly as possible, and use a very light amount of Mobil 1 5W30 synthetic. I still use CLP for lube sometimes, and mil-spec grease on rifles that specifically require it in a particular place.

sandwich
January 26, 2008, 12:41 AM
I thought it was funny. I guess some people don't have much of a sense of humor.

Or they have a bad one.

RustyShackelford
January 26, 2008, 04:49 AM
These CLP posts list everything but hampster spit. :D

It reminds me of the gun magazine item about cleaning products where the writer(A USMC vet) says he uses vagasil as a weapons lube...

Ewwwww!
Rusty S

Waywatcher
January 26, 2008, 05:25 AM
Been using breakfree clp for a couple years now.

Good stuff. It doesn't remove copper though.

sandwich
January 26, 2008, 06:21 AM
You're right, some of the posts prior to mine were funnier.

You don't have to tell me I'm right :)

jr4521
April 27, 2008, 04:31 PM
I use a bore cleaner then follow with clp . I recently purchased a WASR 10 I used a butt load of Kroil,it washed the gunk out of it and freed up the gunked up moving parts. Im not a fan of the pine sol smell it gives off .It did work well.

zxcvbob
April 27, 2008, 04:58 PM
Dexron automatic transmission fliud with a bronze brush. Follow with a dry patch.

RustyShackelford
April 27, 2008, 05:34 PM
Howdy
For a good CLP try these brands;
Ballistol, this German product is non toxic and works great. I've used it on many firearms for over 10 yrs. Check the spelling though, ;).
M-Pro7 makes a highly rated CLP.
Hoppes Field Cleaner is also good, but I've never used it myself.
Rusty S

Drail
April 28, 2008, 08:03 PM
Breakfree CLP cuts all the crud on my guns and is a great preservative. I've never had any rust on a gun with CLP only. Breakfree also makes a Bore Cleaner solvent that will remove the carbon rings on cylinder faces if you soak them for a while. Dexron is also a great carbon cutter.

Oro
April 28, 2008, 08:15 PM
Mainebear - waxes are indeed the bomb. no sticky exterior to attract lint , dust, and powder residue like with oils. The "gold standard" for guns i actually a museum preservative, "Renaissance Wax" - available at high-end woodworking stores, etc. Lots of collectors use it. A small, expensive ($15) can goes a VERY long ways (hundreds of gun applications). I find it much better than liquid waxes, it dries harder and faster, lasts longer (I've tried a few auto waxes as well as pure carnuba).

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