I would like as much info as possible on improving the accuracy of my Model 700, 300 Win. Mag, ss barrel, synthetic stock, Swarovski scope. Already had trigger work, 3 lbs. What else can I do and how do I do it? Glassbedding, porting, muzzlebreak, shorten barrel? Are there any free websites with step by step illustrated instructions? I NEED to know about shortening barrel. My stupid self shot rifle with barrel obstruction and barrel has a bulge in it about 1 1/2 inches from end, looks like it was made that way.. it wasn't! One experienced gunsmith told me I only need about 16 inches of barrel and it could be cut down until I.D. mics correctly. Should I add muzzle break or compensator to restore length, accuracy? I don't won't to waste my time and money if I am going to need a new barrel anyway. Gunsmith I am speaking with has a lot of firsthand, field tested experience but I find it hard to believe gun will be just as accurate. He says you only need enough barrel to burn all the powder to achieve velocity. I am interested in long-range hunting as my flat marshland presents quite a few oppurtunities of extreme ranges...500, 800 yds. and more.
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January 27, 2008, 01:34 PM
IMO: Re-barrel it.
Your gunsmith is full of it!
A 16" .300 Mag would not be able to equal the velocity of a 24" 30-06 or .308!
And a 16" .300 Win-Mag would possibly be one of the most unpleasant rifles I can imagine!
The muzzle blast would knock your socks down around your ankles!
By all means, do not port it or add a muzzle break!
That will only make it even louder!
I think a .300 magnum should have at least a 22" barrel, 24" is better, and a 26" if you want the full .300 Magnum long-range performance out of it.
What length is the barrel now?
I wonder if your smith may have been referring to the legal length of a rifle barrel when he told you that you "...only need about 16 inches of barrel and it could be cut down until I.D. mics correctly."
If you have a 26" barrel now and a bulge 1.5" from the muzzle, there's a good possibility that you could have it shortened and be well within the range rcmodel suggests. If the barrel is in spec where cut and re-crowned correctly, accuracy should as good as before.
A link for DIY: http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/muzzle/mz.html
January 27, 2008, 02:55 PM
I bought a .223 788 at a gun show. Bore looked ordinarily dirty and the price was good. I wiped it out and shot it with very poor accuracy. A tight cleaning patch found a bulge near the muzzle. I had the barrel cut and crowned well behind that and shot again. Accuracy improved to mediocre. Recleaning found the bore pitted. I didn't know anybody made corrosive .223 but that was what it looked like.
Remington said they would replace the barrel for $135 so I sent it in. I got back a whole new barrelled action. So I probably have the newest 788 in the country. It shoots well, but is now no bargain.
February 1, 2008, 11:15 PM
I have a question: How did you bulge the barrel??? Don't put rocks in your bore.
On to the advice: If you're looking for a sub-moa barrel, you can talk to a local barrel smith or send your action to schillen or hart or whoever else to have it rebarreled with a good barrel. This is not exactly a good idea if you aren't a serious shooter. If you don't practice, spend time at the range, shoot more than 50 rounds a year a really good barrel will get you no where. If your rifle can already outshoot you, there is no need to accurize it. Also, a 3lb trigger isn't exactly helping your accuracy. I adjusted my rem 700P trigger to 8oz with a little guidance from an online page. Its actually really easy.
As far as fixing, gb6491 hit the nail on the head.
Should I add muzzle break or compensator to restore length, accuracy?