I just picked up my remington and found the front site on the floor this is the second time this has happened how can I get it to stay on the gun where it belongs.???
KRazy glue dont work this just distroyed my sunday.
Please any advise.
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chad1043
January 27, 2008, 02:12 PM
Gorilla glue?
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
January 27, 2008, 02:22 PM
What do you need a sight for on a '58? Learn to draw and fire without having to sight in. I used to practice that with a Ruger Blackhawk .41 Magnum. Got pretty damn good. I only use sights long range on the .44 Walker or on a rifle/carbine.
Of course the .41 would carry long range but I didn't use it for that. But I'll tell you one thing. If it was within around 30 to maybe 50 yards of me and that .41, it belonged to me.
Get you some JB Weld. (come's in two parts) You can buy it at Wal-Mart's for sure in the section where they sell the Super glue and all that. Mix it up and put it in the drift slot or on the mount or where ever it's broken at. Put your front sight in place. Make sure you'vd got it lined up pretty good because when it dries you're not going to move it. It'll break somewhere else before it breaks there again. After it dries you can file it and shape and polish it. You can also blue it.
Good luck, BBG...Okay...
bigbadgun
January 27, 2008, 02:39 PM
Im not sure if there is enough meat to cut the barrel for a dove tail and the gun smiths in this part of the planet suck eggs I cant find one that is willing to work on a C&B revolver they all refuse to .
I dont get it I guess the money of a black powder shooter dosent spend the same way bunch of as------. They only like smokeless money I dont understand. But it sure is a bad business practice. Talk about shooting yourself in the foot so to speak.
pohill
January 27, 2008, 02:41 PM
Is it an Uberti? It has happened to me on several guns. The front dovetailed sight and the loading lever latches tend to slide out. I usually put a small piece of metal in as a shim and it holds it in place. Or peen the lip over before you slide the sight in (this is tricky and probably best left to someone who can work with metal, which I cannot).
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
January 27, 2008, 02:52 PM
Also, just mix up some of the JB Weld. Put a good dollop on the barrel where the sight goes. Fix the front sight into that dollop of JB. Let dry. File, cut, sandpaper, polish, blue etc...Okay..
Damn! I forgot, BBG. MAKE SURE you remove the old bluing and clean the barrel and contact part of the sight down to bare metal.....
B yond
January 27, 2008, 03:54 PM
Silver solder ought to do it.
scrat
January 27, 2008, 03:57 PM
No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No No
scrat
January 27, 2008, 04:00 PM
i hope i caught everyones attention.
super glue gorilla glue chewing gum. they wont work. any machinist will not advise on.
neither will silver solder as it takes to long to cure and does not have the strength.
You need an epoxy. a steel epoxy.
JB Weld or JB Quickset
mix a small pea sized portion from each tube. use an old nail. Make sure both parts are clean. use rubbing alcohal to make sure. apply a small amount. Then set the part.
You will never ever ever have to deal with this again for as long as you own the gun.
Pulp
January 27, 2008, 04:10 PM
I bet that stuff Billy Banks has been selling lately would fix it better than anything. At least he says it will. And it's on TV, so it's gotta be true.
Old Fuff
January 27, 2008, 04:13 PM
Bigbadgun:
You didn't make it clear - at least to me. :confused:
Was (is) this front sight the dovetailed kind, or a round plug that fit into the barrel?
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
January 27, 2008, 04:26 PM
SCRAT, SCRAT, SCRAT!!!!
Well, I'll just be God d******* and go to hell!
I finally met someone who know's how to bypass all the theories and flowery talk and get down to the rat killing!
Thank you sir, for telling BBG what I (and probably you) have known for at least 25 years.
By God I might not own or have shot or have had my hard working hands on every blackpowder revolver they ever made and I may not know all the different velocities of the balls with such and such a powder charge, but I damn sure know how to shoot and I know how to work on them if they break.
Thank you, sir...Okay...
bigbadgun
January 27, 2008, 04:53 PM
Sorry its the round plug type but it seems to be busted aint that a bear maybe thats why I got it for $100 and its a Pietta
scrat
January 27, 2008, 05:00 PM
SCRAT, SCRAT, SCRAT!!!!
Well, I'll just be God d******* and go to hell!
I finally met someone who know's how to bypass all the theories and flowery talk and get down to the rat killing!
Thank you sir, for telling BBG what I (and probably you) have known for at least 25 years.
By God I might not own or have shot or have had my hard working hands on every blackpowder revolver they ever made and I may not know all the different velocities of the balls with such and such a powder charge, but I damn sure know how to shoot and I know how to work on them if they break.
Thank you, sir...Okay...
hahahaha.
well i hope i did not offend anyone but this sure did make me laugh. I tell you what i agree with you 100%
whistler
January 27, 2008, 05:01 PM
you should be able to drill and tap it for a shotgun bead sight
bigbadgun
January 27, 2008, 05:20 PM
I didnt even think about JB weld hell that stuff is used for engine blocks ok let me go to home depot.
I just got flustered by finding the front site off it AGAIN and knowing that gun smiths in Palm beach are a bunch of ..... Oh never mind.
Old Fuff
January 27, 2008, 05:21 PM
A shotgun bead would be way too low.
In the past I have had simialr problems, and solved them by cutting a dovetail in the barrel over the present hole. The dovetail doesn't have to be any deeper then the hole, and you can then move the sight sideways to correct for windage.
Dixie Gun Works (www.dixiegunworks.com) has a selection of sights you might choose from, as do Numrich / The Gunparts Corp. at (www.e-gunparts.com). I have found that sights made for WW-2 Mauser rifles often work. They have a small dovetail, are made of steel, and the blade is tapered and so works well with the original rear sight.
Incidentally, look at the barrel very closely. I have seen Remington style C&B revolvers where the plug front sight was mounted in a dovetail base, and not the barrel itself.
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
January 27, 2008, 06:18 PM
BBG, don't worry about it. I don't know if I'm flustered or not but I'm originally from Alabama so you know I was borned a little confused!...Okay...
Im283
January 27, 2008, 07:15 PM
Since you are in Palm beach you probably shoot it homeboy style and don't use the front sight anyway ;) j/k
I would try the JB Weld. I have seen it work on a hole in a Yamaha four wheeler motor.
bigbadgun
January 27, 2008, 07:45 PM
thanks everybody for the help but I got it curing with JB weld now I ll let yall know how it holds up.
Jim K
January 27, 2008, 07:59 PM
I am not sure about Remington, but the original Colt cones were just a piece of brass wire cut to the right length. Then an arbor press with a reverse cone shape die was used to press the sight into the slightly undercut hole. They didn't come out.
Jim
dstorm1911
January 27, 2008, 10:41 PM
the correct method for a dovetail is a two part deal first ya stipple the underside of the sight itself this will do two things it expands the metal AND it creates a gripping surface, ya can also stipple the bottom of the dovetail cut in the barrel. only tools needed are a sharp center punch (automatic punch works great) and a hammer and a flat faced punch
next ya tap down the edges of the dovetail cut in the barrel (this is where ya'll use the flat face punch)this is how dovetails have been tightened for a couple hundred years anyhow.....
To tighten a steel peg in a blind hole you expand the peg, in the case of the Front sight ya use a steel punch with the end slotted for the sight blade to be protected, next you place the sight post on a solid hard surface and heat the base to a light cherry red then you place the modded punch on top of it and tap down to expand the plug slightly, let cool and then actually freeze it, the longer the better (same method used for installing press fit barrels) now that its frozen heat the barrel over your kitchen stove to around 250 degrees or so (ya can go to 600 degrees without effecting the steel and baked on finishes require 300 degrees) now get your frozen sight post outa the freezer and tap it in using the modified punch when the temps equalize it will be as solid as if it were welded.........
at least these are the correct methods of doing the job,, there are a thousand 21st Century methods to jerry rig em, most gunsmiths still use the old techniques..
B yond
January 28, 2008, 12:04 AM
aww heck, just break out the oxy-acetylene torch...:rolleyes:
Wildfire
January 29, 2008, 12:37 AM
Hey there:
Try putting some valve lapping compound on the sight and re-isntall it . It should go in tight and should hold. I use a course or medium,.
This is better then glue. And I have not had a problem since.
tkendrick
January 29, 2008, 08:32 AM
:scrutiny: Why don't you just stake it?
4v50 Gary
January 29, 2008, 08:53 AM
dstorm911 is right. That's how we were taught to tighten up a sight at Lassen College.
Misfire99
January 29, 2008, 04:43 PM
neither will silver solder as it takes to long to cure and does not have the strength.
This comment tells me that I shouldn't have scrat work on any of my guns.
Silver solder has a tensile strength in the 50,000 psi range and it's used to hold carbide onto tool steel to make a carbide tool.
Now JB weld might work but the proper way is to use silver solder when installing front sight ramps and other attachments that are steel to steel. Maybe the reason scrat thinks it's not strong enough is the work he saw, or did, wasn't prepared correctly. The fit between the parts MUST be held down to .001 or less of a gap. You don't just hold a couple of bits of steel together and flow some solder on them, it's not brazing with brass alloy. You have to fit the parts. Or maybe he is thinking of lead/tin solder, commonly called soft solder, that is used to join shotgun barrels.
Silver solder takes high heat to work, in the 1200 degree range. And it will discolor your finish. But I guarantee that if the work is properly prepared and the proper amount of heat is applied it will hold a front sight on no problem. I gave a demo once of silver soldering two half inch bolts together. Then had one in a vice and turned the other with a wrench. The bolt broke not the solder joint. I think that is strong enough for a front sight.
sundance44s
January 30, 2008, 03:17 PM
It would probally melt one of these Itilian made barrels if ya got it hot enough to silversolder it on ..I`ve used 5 min epoxy ..the front sight is still on after years of use . I was thinking about JB weld ..but couldn`t find mine. so I used the epoxy.
DuncanSA
January 30, 2008, 04:30 PM
Thanks dstorm1911. This was info I needed right now.
Mark whiz
January 30, 2008, 05:03 PM
J-B Weld......................the greatest thing since duct tape. :D
I intentionally took my Pietta sight off cause the pistol was shooting off to the right. This was probably more a function of barrel installation, but adjusting the sight was an easy fix. I ordered a couple of new sights and J-B'd one of them in. The sight looks a tad crooked now, but it shoots straight as an arrow and that sight will probably survive Armegeddon. :)
sundance44s
January 30, 2008, 06:07 PM
Duct tape is a quick fix till the JB weld sets up ...lol
bigbadgun
January 30, 2008, 07:39 PM
hell ill just leave the duct tape so forget about it.
Misfire99
January 31, 2008, 12:43 AM
It would probally melt one of these Itilian made barrels if ya got it hot enough to silversolder it on ..I`ve used 5 min epoxy ..the front sight is still on after years of use . I was thinking about JB weld ..but couldn`t find mine. so I used the epoxy.
Steels melt in the 2500 degree range. So you are only about half way there when silver soldering. When you realize that the puddle you create with an oxy/act torch is around 2500 degrees you're doing something. That's real hot.
The JB weld and other epoxies work but they are ugly. When you silver solder something you only have one thousandth of an inch thick area of silver and you can blacked it to match the bluing. When silver solder is done properly you can't see the joint.
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