[Clark]

1) I ground some off the rear hump of the top of the trigger to get rid of the 2 stage aspect.
2) I milled out and Silver soldered in a piece of steel to the trigger and then drilled and tapped it to put in a set screw to control take up.
3) I drilled and tapped the trigger spring shroud to put in a set screw to control the over travel.
4) I removed the trigger spring and put in one from a ball point pen that had a much smaller wire diameter for a lower force.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=410741

[P95Carry]

Looks interesting in principle .... hope the silver solder takes the stresses ..... wondered if a braze maybe give you higher tensile.

Apart from that ... you didn't say ........ does it perform??? Nice?

[critter]

I once purchased a Czech VZ-24 at a gun show that had a similar trigger job done on it. I rebarreled it to 35 Whelen and restocked it. It was already drilled and tapped for a scope. Made a fine rifle.

The above trigger treatment will make an old military trigger a really sweet one indeed! It used to be frequently done before good aftermarket triggers became readily available at very reasonable costs.

Fun and quite useful project though.

[Clark]

Yeah,
I didn't invent any of this, although I found the pieces in different places.

I can get the trigger tuned better than the average aftermarket trigger this way, and it is all free, but it is no Jewel target trigger.

The mill and Silver solder came from an old out of print gunsmithing book by McFarland. What a well written book in the chapters on sporterizing! He made his sight dovetails with a hack saw, back in the days of the craftsman:)

[Clark]

.http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=410943

[P95Carry]

Hmmm ....... gonna have to check out trigger group on my Turk sometime!

[Clark]

I milled another spot, and Silver soldered another piece of steel, and drilled and tapped it, and put a screw in it to adjust over travel.

To adjust over travel, I usually drill and tap the sear spring cowling or put a nail cut to length in the sear spring. But I decided I would try and adjustment further from the fulcrum.

--
A society that teaches evolution as fact will breed a generation of atheists that will destroy the society. It is Darwinian.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?s=&postid=815989

[stans]

I have two Mauser 98's that had been sporterized when I bought them and did a similar poor man's trigger job. I went really cheap on mine. I just used epoxy and steel shims to eliminate the first stage of the stock two stage trigger. I don't think I would recommend this approach for a rifle that is going to be toted around with a round in the chamber, but for target shooting it seems perfectly safe. It did result in a reasonably crisp and light trigger pull.

[Jim K]

A couple of words of caution when messing with any trigger.

With the rifle EMPTY, cock it, then bounce it around with the safety off. Really slam the butt on the ground, ditto the barrel (with a tiny bit of padding to keep from marring the crown), then on the sides. You may not feel that this is necessary, but if you are preparing to fire and drop the gun, or have it fall off the bench, you don't want a sear that will jar off.

Second, cock the rifle and put on the safety. Pull the trigger, hard. Let up the trigger and take the safety off. The gun should not "fire".

Jim

[Clark]

This show with hump and with hump ground off.

[rcmodel]

Like Jim Keenan said:
Try every way possible to see if you can make it fire by accident.

That trigger mod does do away with the military two-stage safety feature.

If you do it, be absolutely positively sure any slop in the bolt sleeve threads & striker fit in the bolt sleeve does not allow the cocking piece to slip off of the sear.

In addition to bumping it on the ground, I like to pry up on the end of the cocking piece with a screwdriver to make absolutely sure there is no way it can slip off the sear under any conditions.

PS: I'm not sure a ball point pin spring would be a good idea on anything other then a rifle shot off the bench all the time.
Certain to be too light to be safe on a hunting rifle I would think.

rc

[Clark]

The rear hump removal has little to do with accidental discharge.
It just changes the leverage on pulling the trigger.

The take up adjustment, sear engagement angle, and trigger spring force have more to do with accidental discharge.

I can generally get a non semi auto trigger job down to ~ 2 pounds and a semi auto with disconnector down to ~ 4 pounds.
If I buy an aftermarket trigger, like a Bold, for a Mauser, break the paint seals, and adjust it, I can get it down to ~1 pound safely.

I was building a Mauser in May 2008 for the daughter of a serviceman, and I ground too much off the rear hump. That made it HARDER to pull the trigger. I had to TIG weld material back on top of the trigger and try grinding it again. The pic in my previous post is my reference about how I do it right, with no welding afterwards.

[Jim K]

Ball pen springs are surprisingly good and very useful in many applications, but as a Mauser trigger spring? There really is a reason factories use a certain weight of spring for a certain application, and it is not just so gun tinkerers can once again "discover" that reducing spring weight can make things easier.

Jim

[fguffey]

and the only way the trigger can get behind the safety is when the bolt is installed, after that the safety camming is behind the trigger engagement, meaning there is no way the trigger can be pulled to release the cocking piece for safety engagement (after the bolt has been installed)

Or when a coclomg knob is used.

and a friend handed me a Mauser with all matching parts/numbers, he cocked it at my request and handed it to me, I shoved the trigger forward and it went CLICK to his surprise, I explained to him that model did it every time, I suggested welding the trigger slot in the guard or pin the stock.

F. Guffey