Seen this flashlight? Also, on knife sharpening...


February 27, 2008, 05:12 PM
Hi everyone,

Got a two-in-one post...

First off, I was at a construction supply type place and ran across this:

Looks too good to be true, but google turned up some good reviews (there are also some on that site). There are also a few saying the impact resistance isn't too good, but a 60 lumen 3xAAA LED light for $15 is good regardless! The package also promised a 1yr warranty. I think I'm going to get my GF one to function as a flashlight+kubotan. They are crenellated, which is pretty cool, but not too aggressively, which is also cool. I didn't get to handle it, but it was a pretty nice size in person. About the size of a surefire G2 with a bit of a thicker bezel and tail.

Second, I found a great knife sharpening page:

That looked like such good advice I decided to try it, only I don't have a guide for my stones. So I eyed it. I just went for an acute angle on the first (relief) strokes until I achieved a 1/16" relief, a less acute angle on the primary edge, and a fairly obtuse (relatively) angle for the secondary edge. Then I stropped on the edge of a cardboard box (backwards of course) and then stropped on a leather belt. Oh, I also used a soft/rough stone and a hard/medium stone, in that order, on each of the edges. I think I probably did about 200 strokes per side for the relief, 75-100 for the primary, and 50-75 for the secondary.

Without a doubt it's the sharpest my EDC knife has ever been (Junkyard Dog 2). I have used it fairly aggressively, and it has remained sharp. I encourage anyone who is interested to try it. You could definitely pull it off with just about any sharpening device if you have a steady hand. Once I get a digital scale (for food) I am going to try the sharpening test relative to a Gillette razor, as described on that page.

Thanks Mike Casey!


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February 29, 2008, 09:00 PM
Bump. any opinions on the flashlight? I'll probably get it regardless for $15...

February 29, 2008, 09:12 PM
1W for $15 would be good. Add shipping. AAA not so good. AAA makes it just fair.

March 1, 2008, 02:56 PM
It was actually at a local shop, but I posted the link so you guys could see it.

Why don't you like AAA? I know they aren't the best batts, but they're cheap and available. I think that's why some people like AA/AAA better than CR123As. It is 3xAAA.

I'll do a review if I "get it for my dad." :)

BTW, I love my Olight T10 Q5. 5-stage, 180 lumens max, SOS and strobe, super compact, $50. But I am kind of partial to "buying gifts" for people...let's see...I got my dad a gun and knife and my mom a flashlight in the last few months... :)

March 1, 2008, 03:05 PM
I would spend just a bit more for Fenix light. The make lights that are smaller and (depending on actual lumen ratings),brighter. I have never cared for the 3xAAA format. The plastic battery carrier is an unnecessary weakness.

March 1, 2008, 05:49 PM
AAA are pretty inefficient, and a tri-carrier makes the package fairly bulky for a 1W. It's not a bad deal.

March 1, 2008, 06:44 PM
I'll comment on knife sharpening.

I've always used Japanese water stones which seemed to cut much faster than arkansas stones, but more messy since you need to presoak them and keep a slurry on the surface. After raising a burr on the final 8000 grit stone (I don't think its actually 8000 grit but thats what it's labeled as from King), I strop about 3-5 strokes on a belt loaded with ~5 micron chromium oxide. Usually that gets it shaving sharp.

I've never used fixtures before, just a dykem pen to dye the blade edge and check my angle after several strokes to make sure I got it all, but its not 100%. I would say I have to go back to the 4000 grit stone about 25% of the time and refinish since freehanding isn't fool-proof.

A lot of people have good luck with the spyderco sharpmaker system. I just use a single beveled edge and a quasi second bevel put on by the strop. The double bevel has a much longer working time between sharpenings though but its not possible (for me) to put a significant secondary angle on the bevel freehand so I don't.

My hand and Microtech in the video:)

March 1, 2008, 08:00 PM
highorder, I went with an Olight T10 Q5 for myself over the Fenix P2D because of the extra throw. Some people on candlepower forums thought the Olight had sturdier housing too. Either way though it's basically the same light, and I'm a big fan!

Cesium, I need to get some of the chr oxide, where'd you find it?

March 1, 2008, 08:40 PM
Ebay, of all places. I see one on there ( now. No sense in paying for reagent grade from a chemical supply house.

March 1, 2008, 09:02 PM
I got a similar flashlight from WalMart for around $10 on sale. It's a Doocy LED flashlight. It's actually pretty bright too. It doesn't have the edges though.

March 1, 2008, 09:57 PM
Nice! Been looking for that stuff for a while, or something similar. I feel it will make a big difference when stropping. :)

March 5, 2008, 02:10 PM
Get you one of theses drop in's from Gene Malkoff and put it in a G2, C2, etc. You won't find a better LED in this size catagory. More than 15 bucks, that's for sure but, it's not a little 1 watt LED either. I run it on 2 RCR123 lithiums or 2 CR123's.

Malkoff Devices....... (

This is the Malkoff Devices P60 style dropin with solid brass heatsink construction. This design utilizes a Khatod 6 degree optic. The optic has a very nice balance between throw and spill. It does typically produce a darker ring around the hotspot before tapering off. The hotspot can be very warm and incandescent like. These are a normal characteristics of this dropin. It is an outstanding room lighter and short to medium spotter. It was designed specifically for use in SureFire 6P, 6Z, C2, M2 and G2 flashlights. It may or may not fit other models. The input voltage is 3.8 - 9 volts. Below 3.8 volts it will drop out of regulation and run direct drive. The output is 235+ lumens. The current draw is only 780ma at 6 volts. The runtime is 1 1/2+ hours on 2 CR123 primary batteries. It will easily illuminate objects at 350+ feet and will blind opponents within a 100 foot radius. The LED is a Cree XRE 7090, Q5 bin, WG tint.

March 6, 2008, 10:08 PM
Huh! That's pretty neat. It'd probably be worth it, just to be able to use RCs (I have both 123 and the next size, whatever size= two 123) in my SureFire...


March 6, 2008, 10:36 PM
I put a 5W Cree module ( in my G2 and am mightily impressed. $18 delivered price.

March 6, 2008, 10:46 PM
Don't know that particular model, but I just bought this one
and it has turned out to be a great little light. Free shipping to boot. Found out about it over on Candlepower forums, where those folks are serious about their portable illumination!

March 7, 2008, 01:49 PM

those lights on dealextreme are the right price. I've browsed that site before...great selection.

I fully recommend the Olight T10 Q5 to anyone who wants a light with several options--5 output options, SOS, strobe--and a simple interface, running off 1xCR123a.

To me, the real sleeper is the fauxton/photon, a small watch battery light that's brighter than most AA/AAA lights, and is about nickel sized.

March 7, 2008, 01:52 PM

for example. It's totally worth it to just buy 10 of 'em then give away all but two IMO.

Also, you 1xCR123a light users should get a little "medicine case" keychain. I got one and keep a backup batt on my keychain.

March 11, 2008, 10:55 AM
Huh! That's pretty neat. It'd probably be worth it, just to be able to use RCs (I have both 123 and the next size, whatever size= two 123) in my SureFire...

Those would be 17670's or 18650's. Both are 2x123 in length. The 18650 is larger in diameter. Surefire tubes take the 17670. I have Surefire's that uses 2 17670's and one that uses 3 17670's, that I've built.

Here's a chart of explanation of different Li-Ion sizes, and about anything else you want to know regarding heads, tubes and bulbs as it relates to rechargable Lithiums.

Source.....Credit goes to MDOCOD on CPF. (

Cell sizes

So what's with all the numbers? Lets decrypt the code

Here's some references to cell sizes and their names, Pila and Wolf-eyes make 4 cell sizes... they are roughly the same as the "industry" sizes by the following chart.
AW follows the "normal" cell naming structure described below:

mm diameter x mm length, the 0 on the end stands for cylindrical.
a 21370 cell would be 21mm diameter, 37mm long, cylindrical.

17500/150B/300S=1.5x length of a CR123 and slightly thicker, fits most SF bodies. capacity ~1000-1100mAh
18500/150A/300P=1.5x length of a CR123 and quite a bit thicker, fits WE, Pila, Leef bodies, and some other chinese lights. capacity ~1400-1500mAh
17670/168B/600S= 2x length of a CR123 and slightly thicker, fits most SF bodies. capacity ~1500-1600mAh
18650/168A/600P=2x length of a CR123 and quite a bit thicker, fits WE, Pila, Leef bodies, and some other chinese lights. capacity ~1800-2600mAh

the 123 reference:
16340=16320=16330=CR123A=R123=RCR123A. we have lots of ways we "short-hand" these common cells, often just called "123" in reference to this size cell.
Primary CR123As: 3.0V 1300mAh
Li-Ion RCR123As: 3.7V ~500-600mAh

more size references
15270=CR2 lithium photo battery size
14670=4/3AA (often used in some SF bodies that are so narrow, that a 17670 will not fit, also used in mag-light mods a lot)
14500= same size as a AA cell
14250= same diameter, half the length of an AA cell
10440= AAA cell size

March 11, 2008, 12:48 PM
I still haven't opted for an LED light for personal carry yet.
I may change my mind after looking at a few of those posted above. Thanks.
I have the Targeter II from LEDWave. It's bright as heck (xenon), but
chews up CR123A's like no tomorrow. 60-75 minutes on a set of 4.
But when I need a flashlight, I need a flashlight.
It's small and very lite though. I keep it in my glove box for emergency use.


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