Crushed and flipped primer handling?


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Jumping Frog
February 29, 2008, 07:45 PM
First time reloader with a brand-new Lee Loadmaster (Big Thanks to Shadowdog and and Darwin for their setup videos.)

In my first 100 rounds (literally), I had two oddities.

First, although all the .45ACP Winchester brass seemd fine, I had one Speer case mixed in. The primer on that round looked like it had a little round blob on the side that looked almost like melted solder that had re-hardened. It was about the size of the letter "o" in ".45 AUTO" printed on the case head.

Any hints on why this happens? What should I do with the round, disassemble it or shoot it?

Second, I had one round where the primer flipped over. What should I do with that round? Is is safe to use my brand new bullet puller when the primer is inserted backwards?

I would upload a picture, but the upload fails (numerous attempts). I'll try the IMG code instead:
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg126/Jumping_Frog/SpeerCrushedPrimer.jpg


Thanks for your advice.

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rodregier
February 29, 2008, 08:02 PM
If the primer isn't properly sealing the pocket I wouldn't shoot it.

You *could* set off a primer using a bullet puller on such a round, but I haven't yet with similar. The only time I've had a Winchester primer fire in a press was when I had crushed the heck out of it, on-axis. It takes a lot of mechanical abuse to set a primer off.

You get that kind of appearance with a primer that didn't start into the pocket "square" and even...

The Bushmaster
February 29, 2008, 10:24 PM
Disassemble both cartridges. Deprime just like you would when you resized them. Wear hearing protection and safety glasses. In over 20 years I have deprimed many upside down primers and none went off. Just move the ram slowly until the inverted primer is out. If there is no damage to the other case with the disfigured primer use it again. To set a primer off you really have to wack them hard and fast...I have never set a primer off using my error eraser (inertia hammer) either. That's what the inertia hammer (error eraser) is for in the first place. To disassemble loaded mistakes. Again...Safety glasses and hearing protection just in case...

Virginian
February 29, 2008, 11:31 PM
I have had two backwards primers go off when I deprimed the case. I was prepared, and no harm was done other than the anvil got to the spent primer catcher in record time and it startled the dog.

Mal H
March 1, 2008, 12:26 AM
Really?! You are the very first person I have ever heard of that had one go off. What method did you use to deprime the backwards primers?

The Bushmaster
March 1, 2008, 09:50 AM
Amazing...Hammer and a punch? Not to say it isn't impossible, but...

That IS why you should be wearing safety glasses and hearing protection...

evan price
March 1, 2008, 12:40 PM
Deprime it, and if you go slowly and carefully, you can even re-use the upside down primer. I do, for practice ammo.

SteveW-II
March 1, 2008, 04:30 PM
> Any hints on why this happens?

It happens because the weight of a full tray of large primers is enough to cause the priming system on the LoadMaster to move 'off axis' from the centerline of the brass being primed. Some primers will catch on the shellplate and flip right over as the priming ram moves up. Some will flip onto their edge and get crushed, others will insert into the primer pocket, but won't be aligned with the center of the ram. That's what makes the 'crescent' shaped indentation. The ram is off center and tilted on it's axis. The 'bubble of solder' is the lip of the primer that caught on the edge of the primer pocket as it was being inserted off axis.

The priming system of all progressive presses is fragile but the LoadMaster more so, because of the way the entire priming system isn't mechanically locked into alignment with the centerline of the brass as rotated by the shellplate. Sometimes the only thing keeping the priming system in place is the bottom edge of the shellplate stopping it all tipping up.

I made a bracket out of aluminum 'L' stock that runs underneath the primer trough and supports the weight. The bracket is supported by two screws that thread into the underneath of the threaded lugs for the 'arms' that hold the rounds in place as the shellplate rotates. No primer problems since I did that.

If you are interested enough, I could post some pics.
Should you have to do this for a new purchase in 2008 ? Absolutely not.

S.

Jumping Frog
March 1, 2008, 06:35 PM
If you are interested enough, I could post some pics.
That does sound interesting. If you post 'em, I promise to look at them. :D

SteveW-II
March 2, 2008, 10:17 AM
Here you go.

Left hand side :

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3728/lefthandlmdx7.th.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lefthandlmdx7.jpg)

Right hand side :

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/498/righthandlmvn4.th.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=righthandlmvn4.jpg)

As you can see, the bracket is supported by the screws between the priming and powder station. Spacers set the amount of support and 'waggle' for the primer trough. Bracket is shaped so it dosn't interfere with press operation. Sorry 'bout the focus on the camera.

S.

Well Regulated
March 4, 2008, 07:49 AM
I had a primer similar to the one in the picture above. Today I decided to try and remove it using the de-priming die. It went without a hitch or boom.

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