[SingleSeven]

Hi all,

I'm looking for tips from the experts on how to fit the safety arm of the Wilson drop in grip safety to the trigger bow on my 1991 nrm. After destroying the first safety by filing too much, I thought I had the problem licked with my second attempt - that is until I oiled the gun (including the beavertail where it was filed) for storage. Although the grip safety seemed to work perfectly when dry with maximum finger pressure on the trigger, it failed after the parts were slicked up with the oil. Now I thought I went really slowly with the filing and stoning and fit spot checking, but obviously something went wrong. Does anyone know of a tool that might simplify things for me? I can't see much inside the frame to evaluate fit so its pretty much been the "cut and try, cut and try approach." I did a search to see if there was something I could use to take an "impression" of the mating surfaces between trigger bow and safety tang, but couldn't find anything obvious. Any ideas from the smiths (or dentists who happen to be 1911 fans) or recommendations on tools?

[gunjunky]

Try this link, it should help you out.

http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/beavertails.html

[SingleSeven]

Thanks, blindhogg is usually a great resource but in this case the recommendation is basically "file to suit" which doesn't seem to be working very well for me. Problem is there doesn't seem to be alot of contact surface on the Wilson with the back of the trigger bow within the swing radius of the beavertail when its installed. I was really just hoping that someone could recommend a tool to take the guess work out of the fitting (I don't need a jig 'cause the part is semi drop-in and I'm not modifying the frame).

[sniper350]

OK ..........just finished a Wilson grip safety tonight.......... so maybe I can offer some help.

First remove the left side grip panel ......you will need a strong flashlight.
It is possible to look up into the frame and see the trigger Bow and part of the grip safety arm. Don't get excited, it is not enough to clearly see the contact between the two, but it does offer a view if the arm is too long.

Look on the arm nose .....you will notice compound angles. These are important ........do NOT file these smooth into one flat surface.

If you are repalcing a working grip safety .............. then the easiest method is to use a caliper and measure the distance from the grip safety HOLE out to the tip of the arm. Just repeat that distance on the new grip safety ....remembering to keep that compound angle on the nose. The distance from the mounting hole to the outer nose of the grip safety will not change from safety to safety, no matter the style.

Install the new grip safety, so that it will move freely in and out ---- missing the trigger Bow in its swing. Don't worry about the grip safety allowing trigger movement at this point. When the grip safety can be depressed and it moves freely without any binding .....you can move onto filing the surface that will allow trigger bow movement. This usually is accomplished by making the nose of the arm narrower. Keep in mind that the MSH unit controls the travel of the grip safety by way of the capture notches. On two Wilson grip safeties, I have had to file these capture ledges to half their original thickness. What this does is allows the grip safety more outward swing, which in turn moves the inner arm lower and blocks the trigger bow.

This might be your major problem ....in that the arm does not have enough movement to fall low enough to block the trigger bow. Just look at these capture tangs ............. it might be necessary to file both the MSH units tangs as well as the grip safety tangs. I hope I am making this part clear enough for you. if not let me know???

JF.

[RogersPrecision]

If you insert the thumb safety either upside down or from the right hand side of the frame, you will have a great view of the grip safety arm/trigger bow interaction through the thumb safety lug hole.
:)

[SingleSeven]

That's exactly the tip I was looking for - thank you Chuck. JF, thank you too, but mostly I've been there done that already. Before giving up on the first grip safety, I tried to remedy the situation by filing the mainspring housing tangs to about 1/3 of their original height and I did get more "swing" from the safety, but it didn't solve the problem and left a visible "opening" in the base of the grip safety that I figured would probably end up being a pathway for contamination to reach the inerds of the pistol (plus it looked aweful). I'm hoping that I don't have to do that again to make the new grip safety work right, but it very well may come to that (although I think I'll start off filing the tangs on the grip safety first this time). I'm going to reverse the thumb safety this weekend as Chuck recommended and I'll report back afterwards with my findings and hopefully a success story. Many thanks to you both.

[SingleSeven]

Worked like a charm! With the thumb safety reversed I could see where the grip safety arm was hung up on the trigger bow, and after a little extra stoning I had nearly full parallel engagement between the two surfaces up to the nose of the safety arm. I liberally applied lube, reassembled, and had perfect blockage of the trigger with a smooth release at about 1/4 - 1/3 depression - not quite as quick releasing as my exec target, but satisfactory for my purposes. Thanks again to all for the help. I know others reading this will benefit from the advice as well.