[Tripled140]

I'm a noob with a noob question. I have a Taurus M650 .357 mag and some ammo seems to make it not want to revolve. It does seem to be ones that have lead colored tips that stick. I shot a hundred 38's through it and never a flaw but they were the same type of shell that also didn't stick in the .357 mag. Do I just have to stick with that? I think it was the Magtech or something that worked good and the cheap Remingtons stuck about every 3 shots.

Since I'm a noob I will also say that I just got into all this. I started out with the Springfield XD-9(which I love by the way) and now I got the M650 for carrying.

Try not to just say "it's a Taurus, live with it".

Thanks for any help,
Dan

[sloppyjoec]

my guess is with the light gun and heavy recoil the cheeper bullets might be coming unseated and protruding through the front of the chambers. the more $$$ bullets might have a tighter crimp¿

[Tripled140]

Thanks but that can't be it. It does it with empty casings in it. When I fire it, I have to pull the spent shell out but I can fire the other 4.

[Jeff F]

If you shoot .38's in a .357 you should probably clean all of the chambers in your cylinder before you shoot .357's in it. This could be your problem. .38 cases are shorter then .357 magnum cases. When you fire the short rounds it leaves a build up in front of the case. Then you load the longer rounds and when fired they expand and that build up can grab hold of them and make them stick. Also when you fire any round it will move back-words a slight amount. Sometimes they will get stuck to the rear and be dragging around the recoil shield.

[ShunZu]

+1 with Jeff's suggestion. You'd been shooting .38's, and the front of the chambers are probably dirty if not cleaned before chambering .357's. Let us know if that fixed the problem.. or not.

[Grandpa Shooter]

That sounds like a problem I had with a Taurus Model 85. Some brass has thicker rims than others. In my case, as the cylinder rotated to the top, if a case with a thicker rim were rotating up, it would force the cylinder forward and wedge against the rear of the barrel (forcing cone). It was RP brass causing the trouble. I shaved the forcing cone down just enough to allow all the brass to rotate without forcing it to stop.

If you are not experienced with guns, or working on them you probably should have it checked out by a competent smith.

[Tripled140]

Thanks guys for the responses. It did it even before I shot the 38's so that's not it. I can see that some shells have a thicker rim to them and they are the ones that have the problems. I'm not good with guns but I'm very mechanically inclined. Can I shave the barrel just a bit or will I be taking strength away? It looks like it binds up at the rim but that may be pushing it forward and locking it. I hate to have the tolerances this close because I don't trust it to carry because I may be limited to one shot. I was thinking of shaving it but was afraid the heat would weaken it. I guess it is made to take some heat though.
Thanks, Dan

[jaydubya]

DON'T DO THAT! You have stated that, although you are "mechanically inclined", you have little knowledge about handguns. They are complex pieces of machinery, not bar stock! And anything you do to it on a lathe or drill press voids the warranty.

Seek help!
Jack

[Tripled140]

I was just going to smash it in a little with a hammer. I guess I will stick with the Magtech's because they have worked flawlessly.
I was kidding about the hammer thing by the way.

[eldon519]

I'd say try a couple different quality brands, and if it happens with more than one of them, consider sending it back to Taurus. It shouldn't be hard to fix, and I believe they have a lifetime warranty.

Also, before you carry it, you should check to ensure the loaded rounds will turn. On a lot of double actions, if you pull the hammer back just a little and hold it at a certain position, you can rotate it by hand. I'd recommend doing that and giving it a turn before you carry a round which may stick on you.

[win308]

I'm betting the problem is with the primers. I have a 586 S&W that does the same thing with SOME ammo. When the gun is fired, the ammo with softer primers has the primer cup extrude past the firing pin SLIGHTLY, which extruded material then drags against the plate, making the cylinder difficult to rotate.

Ammo with hard primers, or low pressure .38 ammo, does not extrude the primer cup and the cylinder does not bind. Look at your fired primers on the empties that caused the problem and compare to fired primers where no problems were encountered.