Repairing pitted chamber with JBweld


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____hoot____
March 28, 2008, 01:39 AM
Ran this by the guys in the gunsmithing section and got no experienced answers so I thought, though off-topic, I would try it here. I picked up an old beatup Mark 3 303 British Enfield for 20$ at a yard sale last summer. Fixed most all the problems, but a severly pitted chamber at the lower portion just in front of the base of the case. I fired the rifle a few times and it was accurate enough after I had cut back to 21" and re-crowned the barrel, but the case would flow into the pits and stick in the chamber. A slight rap with a cleaning rod would clear it. Anyone filled such pits with JBweld or any other product? This is going to be a SHTF backup rifle and I don't intend to sell it or use it much.

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goon
March 28, 2008, 01:57 AM
I'd be concerned about using anything other than steel to contain the pressure of a cartridge firing, especially a rifle round.

I think the safest solution would be to get another SMLE and use the one you have now for spare parts.

kingjoey
March 28, 2008, 02:07 AM
I would think that JB Weld would crush/breakdown in that application due to the high pressure trying to push brass into the pits and force the JB Weld out. I wonder if something like Cerrosafe could be used to 'solder' the pits

GlowinPontiac
March 28, 2008, 02:17 AM
you might be able to weld it then re machine out the chamber.... but it would probably cost more than a good condition rifle would cost.

Zouave Rifle
March 28, 2008, 02:23 AM
I used to work in a machine shop where we specialized in cutting gears. Cast iron usually will have gas holes in the metal, and when we cut the teeth in the gears, the holes were exposed. We filled the holes with JB Weld and it held just fine. I'd think that it would be a temporary fix on a rifle, but see no reason why it wouldn't work for a while.

trstafford
March 28, 2008, 02:30 AM
why not have it rechambered for a slightly larger case type or improved case?

Jackal
March 28, 2008, 02:50 AM
Brownells bedding compound in the pits and release agent on the inserted case. I dont see why it wouldnt work. Just be careful not to use too much compound. Ever try removing cured bedding compund? It aint fun.

George Hill
March 28, 2008, 02:51 AM
Take it to a gunsmith and have it reamed and then head spaced.

Buzzbox
March 28, 2008, 02:59 AM
Good luck with that.

elmerfudd
March 28, 2008, 03:09 AM
I'd think silver solder might work better.

kingjoey
March 28, 2008, 04:27 AM
I'd think silver solder might work better.

I wouldn't want to get the chamber that hot, it would affect the temper of the steel. Normally I'd suggest setting the barrel back a thread and reaming the chamber like GH stated, but that can be a PITA on some of those older milsurp rifles

Army
March 28, 2008, 08:39 AM
Re-barrel it, all other suggestions of filling the pits would likely cause a case failure.

A new barrel would also be much cheaper than reaming.

alemonkey
March 28, 2008, 08:50 AM
release agent on the inserted case

Wouldn't this be potentially dangerous? From what I understand, if a case can't "grip" the chamber walls when it expands upon firing it can put excessive pressure on the bolt face.

Or, maybe you just meant to put release agent on it so you can use the case to form the compound used for filling holes. Sorry, it's early in the morning. :D

daniel (australia)
March 28, 2008, 08:50 AM
You could ask your gunsmith for a price to take the barrel off, cut off one turn of the thread at the breech end and rechamber. This is often done to fix the more common bugbear with Lee Enfields, that of loose chambers. It'd depend for success on the pitting not being too deep and of course the price (shouldn't be much, as long as your gunsmith has the reamer etc.)

Alternatively, scout around for a replacement barrel or rifle. If the S really did HTF you'd want the rifle at least to be reliable, wouldn't you?

WayneConrad
March 28, 2008, 11:02 AM
Q: How much heat can J-B Weld withstand?

A: J-B Weld (Part # 8265-S, 8265, and 8280) can withstand a constant temperature of 500 degrees F. The maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 degrees F for a short term (10 minutes).

Seafarer12
March 28, 2008, 11:07 AM
You could ask your gunsmith for a price to take the barrel off, cut off one turn of the thread at the breech end and rechamber. This is often done to fix the more common bugbear with Lee Enfields, that of loose chambers. It'd depend for success on the pitting not being too deep and of course the price (shouldn't be much, as long as your gunsmith has the reamer etc.)


I agree you wouldnt neet to take much off the end of the barrel, rethread and then rechamber the barrel. It would cost more than you could buy another rifle for unless your gunsmith is your buddy and works for beer.

As far as JB weld. I bet it would hold up for a little while before it got beat into dust. I had a friend with a dirtbike the blew apart the piston. The Jb welded the piston back together. It actually started up and ran. The JB weld held for about 30 seconds before it failed.

earplug
March 28, 2008, 11:34 AM
For the cost of five dollars for the Jb weld and some decent 320-400 sand paper to polish the chamber give it a go.
Being a rim case you can't do much damage to head space or chamber
How are you going to put the JB in the chamber and smooth it out before it hardens?
Put some release agent on a round, smear it with JB weld and chamber it?
I'm worried about pushing some JB into the rifling, then it would be a dangerous obstruction, and real hard to get out.
Try polishing the chamber with 320-400-600 before doing the JB thing.
I'm thinking out loud, you can't go wrong trying the easy fix first, then consider a rebarrel.

Mr White
March 28, 2008, 11:40 AM
I've never used JBWeld in a chamber before, but seeing how it has worked for me in cars, trucks and on a boat motor, if it was my $20 gun, I'd give it a try before going a more expensive route.

Art Eatman
March 28, 2008, 11:44 AM
Off the cuff, I don't see how it would hurt to try the JB Weld. However, I'd be careful to not get sloppy in the application. I'd then use a chamber reamer to clean it up. Without the chamber reamer, I don't believe you could cleanly get the original dimensions.

I don't think anything bad could happen, and you'd not be out enough money to care about. If the JB somehow "hammered out", you'd merely be back to where you began.

The starting point, then, would be to find a gunsmith with a reamer. Problably need brake-kleen or ether to get all the oil from the metal before applying the JB.

Art

scrat
March 28, 2008, 11:58 AM
i have used jb weld a lot. it works good. a better version is the jb kwick. it sets up easier so its a lot less runny.



Now back to what would i do. Well i would have to see it. i used to own a machine shop years ago. So if its just the chamber i would sleeve it. mic it out. find the correct size diameter. Make a sleeve. bore out the chamber. clean it up. apply a light amount of heat. same time put the sleeve in a freezer. Then apply a good amount of loctite to the inside of the chamber. Then insert the sleeve. about 5 minutes later do some final machining, test it. Done. Better than ever and will never have to worry about it again.

cracked butt
March 28, 2008, 12:32 PM
If you just continue firing rounds through the rifle, enough brass will wear ito the pitting and the extraction will smoothen out- just be really gentle with chamber cleaning after that or you'll have to start back at square 1 again.

Bwana John
March 28, 2008, 12:46 PM
I would put a 20 guage brass cleaning brush on the end of a old section of cleaning rod, cover the brass brush with a cleaning patch, put some jewelers rouge on the patch then chuck the rod into a power drill and have at it.

.303 headspaces on the rim so a slightly oversized chamber shouldnt be too much of a problem. Most Enfields I have headspaced are pretty loose anyway.

ceetee
March 28, 2008, 12:58 PM
I'd send it to scrat...:evil:

____hoot____
March 29, 2008, 12:31 AM
Thanks Guys! I gave it a go. Cleaned the pits as well as I could with ether, put a little JB in the pits and chambered a fired shell covered with very thin aluminum foil as a template. Sand papered and steel wooled the next day. It chambers rounds OK and I was carefull not to get anything on the rifleing. Will test it up north at the 20 acres sometime in the coming month and let you know what happens.

Cutting back one thread wouldn't have worked, pitting extended too far forward. Sleaveing would have been the way to go if I had the equipment to make one. Thanks for the ideas.

Mike 56
March 30, 2008, 03:20 AM
How about a chamber adapter to 7.62x39, 32acp, 32H&R Mag, or 32S&W Long would make a nice bunny gun.

Mike

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