[20nickels]

Is there any reason a S&W Model 15 tapered barrel would not fit directly up to a Model 19, or Model 66 after cutting the forcing cone back to adjust for the different cylinder length? Are the barrel twist rates the same in the .38's and .357's? Were the forcing cones somehow "beefed up" on M-19's that would complicate things?

Why? you ask.
I want to swap holsters with a S&W Model 18 on camping trips. Having good leather that will fit both K frames snugly will simplify things logistically, and cost. I was looking at M-15's and thought why not do a little smithing and have a .357 instead of just 38 spl. assuming I can find a barrel. Besides I like them old lightweight tapered barrels.
If it doesn't work out I'll probably just get a M-15 for woods stompin' and be happy. It would sure be nice to step up to the magnum when needed though. ;)

[Old Fuff]

Because the model 15 has a narrow barrel rib, and the models 19/66 a wide one, there would be a slight mis-match where the rib contacts the frame, but it would hardly be noticeable. Other then that a gunsmith could fit a model 15 barrel to a model 19 - don't expect them to simply screw together. The internal bore specifications and shank threads are the same. Of course you would lose the larger underlug.

That said, it would be far less expensive to simply buy a quality holster for each revolver... :scrutiny:

A take-off barrel might be available from: www.e-gunparts.com

[rcmodel]

Depending on the age of the .38 Spl. barrel, it might not be up to the same steel & heat treatment standards as a Model 19 barrel?

That's neither here nor there when shooting .38 Spl., but it might be when shooting .357 in it!

I think I'd second the "get another holster" advice!

rcmodel

[20nickels]

Tks Fuff & RC.
Now that I know that it would work I'll talk turkey with my gunsmith when I pick up my 625. I am eyeing a 15-4 and a 15-5 barrel, maybe those would be new enough for the stronger heat treatments. Tks for the heads up though, it's something that had not crossed my mind. This will definately take time, and maybe worth the effort over 38 Spl +P in the M-15.

I half expected someone to say "they already made it numbnuts! S&W Model XX". If I go the suggested route of just get more leather, I'm stepping up to the L frame.

[Old Fuff]

I don’t believe the metallurgy in the frame and barrel of models 15 and 19 are different, but the cylinders are definitely different alloys that go through different heat-treating processes. It isn’t that you can’t do it, but add up the numbers before you do. This would not be an inexpensive project.

If you want to do a lot of shooting with Magnum cartridges, going to an L-frame would be a wise idea. I have always considered the K-frame model 19 to be an excellent .38 Special / Plus-P revolver with an occasional .357 option.

[Jim K]

OF is right as usual. The Model 19 was designed as a police gun, a light alternative to the Model 27/28. It was intended to be carried more than shot.

Jim

[20nickels]

Yes, exactly what I was thinking. Magnum reloads would be tested for reliability and shot rarely. Ammo interchangablility with both calibers in my levergun would be nice too. I'll admit part of me wants to do the science experiment part of it too and have something truly unique.

[20nickels]

I would even buy one with a cracked cone on the cheap since it's going to the shop anyway.

[Old Fuff]

I would even buy one with a cracked cone on the cheap since it's going to the shop anyway.

That wouldn't be wise. The frame could be expanded or weakened where the barrel screws into it. As a rule of thumb, never build up a gun on a damaged frame, especially where high-pressure loads are involved.

[20nickels]

Good point Fuff ^^^, yet another thing I had not thought of. I guess I thought if S&W were fixing them for free, it probably was as easy as a rebarrel job. I suppose they do some measurements 1st and deem it fixable or not. Model 686 is starting to make more sense all the time. I'll just hacksaw off the underlug :barf: