what lubes do you use, and on what guns.

on my rifles ive been using break free with the little tiny teflon particles

on my pistols, (1911s) just light oil (rem-oil) on everything but the rails and barrel exterior, and wilson ultima grease on the rails.

ive considered using the wilson ultima grease on my ar's too, cuz it seems like break free dissappears after a few magazines.

the wilson grease really seems to stay put.

CLP or Remoil for everything and Gunslick for rails and any place I need lube to stick.

depends on how hard i am gonna be running the gun that day, normally a light coat of clp for a normal day at the range. but for training courses and insane amounts of rds in a short time then i use lithium based grease.

I use Militec-1 has my lube for day to day cleaning and lubing. For parts I use a white lithium grease as I reassembly them.

I use Rem-oil and WD-40 for general lubrication. When a little more slick'em is needed I use a few drops of Hoppe's Gun Oil. I do not use any grease on any of my firearms.

Ruger 22/45(s), Mark III, 10/22(s)......Ed's Red

Everything else, BreakFree, Hoppe's oil and/or Shooter's Choice grease.

Mobil 1 on just about everything, anymore.

--
Mike

Be aware that WD 40 is NOT a lubricant. It is not a rust preventative. It is a water displacing product for use on wet distributors and ignitions. Continued use will build up a gummy sticky residue. Use anything but WD 40.

i use lithium based grease.

+1
I've convinced myself that grease is the way to go. I know all the negatives about grease, especially their attraction to things you don't want; but with my lifestyle: no problem. If I'm back in the military crawling in the dirt, maybe not, but firing, cleaning, carrying, storage: I like it's staying power.:)

CLP for my Glock, CZ, and Polytech.

I'm an experimenter. Lately it's Eezox with Militec1 grease or Tetragun grease on the slide rails. When i run out of Eezox then I'll try Weapon Shield. I don't have any problems with any of these products, I just like to experiment.

I use remoil on my 1911's and my makarov imports.

I started using synthetic motor oil a few months back, other than the detergent smell it seems to be working all right. 10W30 or 10W40, I can't remember which exactly. A quart goes for about $3 and change. Much better than $6 for a little squeeze bottle. Oil anywhere that might possibly need some lubing. Breakfree CLP if I'm feeling extravagant.

Hoppes #9 to lube all my Glocks.

Synthetic Mobil 1 20w50 (VTWIN).

Has an operating range of -59.8 F to +518 F, Group IV/PAO based and remains throughout the longest, hottest shooting sessions without ever burning off. It is, without question, the best lubricant that I have ever used on my guns. It has an almost greaselike (~NLGI 4) viscosity (it doesn't run or drip) yet remains usable at extremely low temperatures as well.

Pretty much exclusively CLP for all handguns.

CLP for all of them. Exceeds Mil specs.

Break Free C-L-P on most everything, except the rails of my
semi-auto's; and for that I prefer Tetra Gun Grease. :scrutiny: ;)

FWIW, I do intend on try'in the syntheic 20W-50 Mobil 1 as a lubricant, one
of these days~! :cool: :D Cuz, here lately, our summers have been migthy
HOT and HUMID; with little in way of coolness.

FWIW, I do intend on try'in the syntheic 10W-50 Mobil 1 as a lubricant, one
of these days~! Cuz, here lately, our summers have been migthy
HOT and HUMID; with little in way of coolness


Where did you find M1 in 10w50?

Or was that a typo and you meant 20w50?

Oops~! I meant 20W-50, sorry for that typo; and I will change my post~!

*FootNote- Thank You Sir Gun Slinger My Friend, for correcting my oversight~! :eek:

CLP mostly....maybe a little Tetra on the slide's rails (sparingly).


Lex

Originally posted by Ala Dan:
*FootNote- Thank You Sir Gun Slinger My Friend, for correcting my oversight~!


Figured it was just a typo, however, if M1 synthetic was being made in 10w50 grade, I was gonna have to take a look at it and see what kind of performance it had to offer. :)

Geez, gettin' all over-excited about new lubricant 'prospects' for my guns makes me think that I have perhaps, a little too much time on my hands. :rolleyes:

Break free and Wilson lube

Mobil 1 10w40 (would like to get the heavier stuff but Wal*Mart doesn't carry it here) & BreakFree CLP for lubing/cleaning. Silicone cloth for wiping down.

Mobil 1 for lubrication. I use RemOil for rust prevention.

For rust prevention, I've used G96 for about as long as I can remember.

--
Mike

Good to see so many motor oil users here tonight. I thought we were a very small minority.

I use either Mobil1 synthetic 10w-30 or my personal favorite, Amsoil 5-30.
I use the Amsoil in my car incidentally. I switched to Amsoil from Mobil 1 about 2 years ago and I love the stuff.

Looks like I'm the only 5w-30 Mobil1 user here. Good stuff.

--
Mike

What about all the additives in the motor oil? Some of that stuff I wouldn't want to wash my hands in.

Originally posted by Texastbird:
What about all the additives in the motor oil? Some of that stuff I wouldn't want to wash my hands in.


You don't wash your hands with it. You lube your guns with it. :)

Besides, the PAO base stock found in M1 is exactly the same PAO base stock that is used in many 'gun oils' like Breakfree CLP and FP-10 just to name a couple. M1 20w50 also has ZDDP (Zinc DiAlkylDithiophosphate) and Molybdenum as EP/AW inhibitors and the whole arrangement is rather unlikely to cause you any problems unless you are inclined to drink the stuff. In its "new and unused state", it is really pretty innocuous stuff.

Used motor oil('Dino' or 'Synth'), on the other hand, is an entirely different "beast" and has all manner of combustion contaminants and carcinogenic compounds within its makeup. That is why the manufacturers put that little "cautionary warning" statement about the proper handling and disposal of the used oil on the rear of the oil bottles.

all right, Mobil 1 is CRAP!! It used to be esther/PAO Group IV, but now they are a Dino oil blend. It's an overall, semi-synthetic, synthetic wannabe Group III that is priced like group IV.

I personally don't use motor oil for my guns, but what goes in my CAR is a REAL group4 PAO, GERMAN Castrol, aka GC in the car community. It used to be green, but now it's gold color. You can buy it in Autozone, and it's 0w-30 MADE IN GERMANY...one of the best oil you can buy for ANY money. It's about $6/quart, but worth every penny IMHO for my CAR, I'm not sure about guns, but as for car application goes....it's not even in the same league as POS Mobil 1.

Hmm... Looking at bottle of mobil 1... "FULLY SYTHETIC"...:scrutiny: I think that means no Dino remnants... Either way, CLP for everything, cleaning and lubing. It may look like it's all gone after a bit of shooting, but if one lube goes 2000 rounds in my AR with a LOT of rapid fire, with no malfunctions... Well, why ask for more? (and it doesn't take much, I just wipe some on with a washcloth) I am however intrigued by this motor oil business, this I must try. If motor oil can make a car go for 9000 miles, I wonder how long it would last in a gun... Maybe I could add an oil pan to my sks...

I usually use Remoil after a good solvent cleaning. It seems to be a good general purpose oil.

I just spent a week dissolving Locktite or some adhesive coating off a .380 barrel slide that some idiot put on a Beretta. I almost had to hammer the barrel off, and spent about two gallons of cleaner getting it dissolved and the barrel off. Now the gun works fine and can be disassembled, but don't get "tempted" to see if you can tighten one up with adhesives. Now that it can be disassembled, I also got about a teaspoon worth of spent powder, etc out of the mechanisms.

I think he shot it and forgot it... and then ended up trading it off... It's a good gun now that it can be cleaned.

WT

I put Eezox on the surfaces of all my blued firearms to prevent fingerprinting and corrosion. The internal moving parts get whichever grease/oil lubrication product that hits my hand first.

Eezox not only is a top-notch corrosion preventitive but it brings out the bluing like no other product.

For those interested in getting all technical about oils and gun lubing, I suggest visiting the Bob is The Oil Guy forums (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=38) (<- link to the Firearms forum). Just prepare to be inundated with geeky specifications and chemistry majors.

These guys are almost freaky when it comes to chemicals.

Pretty much whatever I can get for free through work :D

Break Free CLP and Shooters Choice FP 10 has been a staple of mine for years.

If ever I have to pay for my own lube I will probably start using Mobile 1 or if I can find surplus military Break Free I will buy that.

Regards,

Rob

I use generic "gun oil" on every firearm I own. It's in an unmarked dropper bottle and I've had it for about 10 years. On the rare occasion where I need more coverage, I use remington aerosol spray oil.

That's it. No fancy lubes for me. All my guns run fine.

White grease on stainless guns; red grease on blued. Whatever oil is handy when I need some. I've been collecting half-full bottles of oil for 50 years.

John

I use "Marvel Mystery Oil" on everything from my revolvers to my full-autos. I learned about it when I was stationed in Alaska and have never used anything else since.

Slide Glide.

Originally posted by lvcat2004:
all right, Mobil 1 is CRAP!! It used to be esther/PAO Group IV, but now they are a Dino oil blend. It's an overall, semi-synthetic, synthetic wannabe Group III that is priced like group IV.


Actually you are partially correct, lvcat2004.

While they have indeed changed their "automotive" oil product line to a Group III+ recently, their Motorcycle oils, namely 20w50(VTWIN) and 10w40(MX4T), remain fully Synthetic (Group IV PAO's) per the folks at corporate office as of March 6, 2008(see link below) because, as expressed to me over the phone, they (E/M) do not wish to lose their 'customer base' as well as the fact that those products need to remain G-IV due to product performance concerns.


http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=345419 (especially page 3, post #51)


So...if you want a "real" G-IV PAO ester just use the M1 20w50 or 10w40 motorcycle oils.

Quite frankly though, with the recent advances in performance being made with Group III's despite the fact that they originate from "Dino"/mineral sources, I doubt that anyone would notice any appreciable difference while using it as a firearm's lubricant. There is really very litle difference in performance between the two these days, save for the "technical" synthesis issues.

Was just reading a website on corrosion resistance. Check out this website (http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html) where they tested various oils on steel with a salt spray, with photos. Results might surprise you!

all right, Mobil 1 is CRAP!! It used to be esther/PAO Group IV, but now they are a Dino oil blend. It's an overall, semi-synthetic, synthetic wannabe Group III that is priced like group IV.

Group III oils can still be considered synthetic because, although they use dino oil base stock, they are artificially converted and consolidated into consistent molecular chains that offer all the well known benefits vs. conventional oil. It is a bit ironic that Mobil has embraced it to such a degree though, since they were the ones to raise a big stink over the definition of "synthetic oil" when Castrol started marketing Group III oil as fully synthetic.

FWIW I use Amsoil, in my car and my guns. No complaints so far from either. :)

While they have indeed changed their "automotive" oil product line to a Group III+ recently, their Motorcycle oils, namely 20w50(VTWIN) and 10w40(MX4T), remain fully Synthetic (Group IV PAO's) per the folks at corporate office as of March 6, 2008(see link below) because, as expressed to me over the phone, they (E/M) do not wish to lose their 'customer base' as well as the fact that those products need to remain G-IV due to product performance concerns.

Yes gunslinger, you are correct. I was just referring to common automotive "synthetic" oil, not motorcycle oil. As far as US regulations go, Group III base is considered "synthetic" but we all know that Group III is severly hydrocracked petroleum, anything but a TRUE synthetic like Group IV or V.

Having said that.....it might work just FINE for lubricating guns. I have nevered lubricated guns with motor oil. I just hate Mobil's guts for changing from Group IV to a much cheaper Group III base and still charging $5-6 per quart for unknowing customers. German Castrol 0w-30 FTW. Not US syntec since they are Gropu III+, still "synthetic"...uh....

I apologize for threadjacking....

I use remoil and CLP by the way....perhaps I should start playing around with motor oil...what's good for my engine internals can't be bad for my guns either, you think?? I would stay with fully synthetics with less additive groups, however.

Halo,

Group III oils can still be considered synthetic because, although they use dino oil base stock, they are artificially converted and consolidated into consistent molecular chains that offer all the well known benefits vs. conventional oil.

I agree.....and...

You said it better than I. :)

Not much discernable difference between the two (G-III vs. G-IV) these days.

Use what you will, Amsoil, M1, Castrol, it's all good....:D

ehhh.....depends on the car, but for my turbocharged car, Castrol 0w-30 it is. Superior in ALL aspect to Mobil 1 "synthetic" with used oil analysis, and actually for most cars, GIII Mobil 1 should get spanked by a GC 0-30 with UOA. Mobil 1 :barf:

So does anyone have any data on using motor oil for lubricating guns...now I'm very interested but can't find any objective data...

what happened to my post that said:
motor oil,
all of them.

is this a different thread of the same title?

lvcat2004,

I don't think that you 'hijacked' anything so; no harm,no foul. :)

Can't say that I am real thrilled about E/M's choices either and looking at the UOA's/VOA's for the most recent M1 Group III automotive production line, I see very little to worry about insofar as concerns regarding the performance of the 'new' M1 G-III formulation. Other than the rather technical difference of synthesis origin, there is nothing the G-IV ester does that the G-III ester cannot. At least not in my car or based upon the way that I drive... :)

I use remoil and CLP by the way....perhaps I should start playing around with motor oil...what's good for my engine internals can't be bad for my guns either, you think?? I would stay with fully synthetics with less additive groups, however.

Can't see the harm in what you are proposing above. Since RemOil is ~55% solvent (aliphatic petroleum distillate) per its Chemtrec MSDS...

http://www.remington.com/pdfs/msds/guncare/remoil-aerosol.pdf

...The rest is mineral spirits (@ ~35%) and propane (@ ~25%, which evaporates almost immediately after application), there is very little "lube" left behind other than the residual mineral oil and a trace particulate film of "Teflon". It is just not enough to make me very comfortable with using this as a 'lubricant' for my prized firearms which I bought and paid for with my hard earned cash, IMHO.

This is why I prefer the M1 20w50(VTWIN) and the 10w40(MX4T) Group IV motorcycle oils. The M1 20w50 has a high viscosity at 100F of 130 cSt, 212F of 17.7 cSt, pour point of -59.8F and a COC flash point of +518F. The 10w40(MX4T) has a viscosity at 100F of 86.0 cSt, 212F of 13.8 cSt with a pour point of -65.2F and a COC flash point of 487.4F. Either of these are going to provide a whole lot more to rely upon in terms of "barrier" lubrication than the RemOil. Of course, so too will Amsoil, Castrol 0w30(German) and hell, I'll say it right here for all to see, even good 'ole "Dino". :what:

If you really wanna stay away from additives, M1 Jet Oil II or Jet Oil 254 is what you are looking for, though it is kind of expensive for all the hassle that you will go through in order to get just a quart of the stuff.

Regards,

This is why I prefer the M1 20w50(VTWIN) and the 10w40(MX4T) Group IV motorcycle oils. The M1 20w50 has a high viscosity at 100F of 130 cSt, 212F of 17.7 cSt, pour point of -59.8F and a COC flash point of +518F. The 10w40(MX4T) has a viscosity at 100F of 86.0 cSt, 212F of 13.8 cSt with a pour point of -65.2F and a COC flash point of 487.4F. Either of these are going to provide a whole lot more to rely upon in terms of "barrier" lubrication than the RemOil. Of course, so too will Amsoil, Castrol 0w30(German) and hell, I'll say it right here for all too see, even good 'ole "Dino".

I completely agree. From my perspective one of the main advantages of the synthetic oils is the very low evaporative rate, which for practical purposes is almost zero. On the other hand in the past I've pulled out a few guns that had been lubed with run of the mill "gun oil" and they were dry as a bone. I have a lot more confidence in synthetic oil's ability to not only lubricate, but also to provide long lasting protection against corrosion.

Yep. Good point.

Forgot about the low 'evaporative rate' of synthetics.

:)

I use Wilson Ultima Lube grease on the rails and Mobil 1 in all internals at the range.
I use the Würth's Dry Lube when carrying.

Motor oil on anything.
Usually 10W40 because that's what I have a few drops of left.

Re: Remoil

"there is very little "lube" left behind other than the residual mineral oil and a trace particulate film of "Teflon". "

Thanks, that explains why it doesn't gum up the trigger groups on my Remington shotguns. The book for the 870 says to spray the trigger group, let it soak, and then shake it off.

I never could figure out why it didn't attract a bunch of trash and gum up.

John

I grease (any old bearing grease) on my carry gun, only on the slide and internals. I've found that spray lubes pic up too much stuff...

Everything else gets spray lube or motor oil.

Hoppes #9

Outers Tri-Lube with Teflon

Rem Oil

Tetra Gun Grease

Sometimes, Abu Garcia Reel oil.

Umm motor oil that is xWz isn't really that great of an oil for guns considering all the crap they put in it especially suited for engine seals and the fact that temperature variance can be very large. Not at all like the operating window of a firearm.

If you really wanted to use motor oil, get a straight racing oil with one viscosity.

Breakfree

Mobil Synthetic grease for slide rails, guide rods, locking lugs.
FP-10 for everything thing else

I pack the barrel with axle grease to keep it from rusting. I change the oil and filter every 4,000 rounds with Amsoil Synthetic....:rolleyes:

I use Wilson Ultima Lube grease on the rails
Have you been using this stuff for a time? I have a reason for asking...:(

Mobil 1 30 weight works exceedingly well.

FlyPenFly,

You pose some curious technical oddities in your post above. Perhaps you can explain further?


Originally posted by FlyPenFly:
Umm motor oil that is xWz isn't really that great of an oil for guns considering all the crap they put in it especially suited for engine seals...


What exactly is "all the crap" that you are referring to? Is there a particular compound that we should be avoiding? Are some oil companies putting compounds in their motor oil formulations that could harm our engines that we are unaware of or are you speaking from a contrary point of view just for the sake of doing so?



Originally posted by FlyPenFly:
....and the fact that temperature variance can be very large. Not at all like the operating window of a firearm.

Since modern internal combustion engines are cooled by radiators that use an antifreeze/coolant fluid in order to maintain the engine temperature within a specific, not to mention narrowly regulated temperature range, what "very large temperature variances" are you referring to exactly?
I am also unaware of any system that would act to moderate the temperature of a firearm in such a way as to create an "operating window" other than ambient air cooling, or in the case of certain machine guns, water cooled barrel enclosures. Please clarify the "operating window" characteristic or design feature specified above in your comments.


Originally posted by FlyPenFly:
If you really wanted to use motor oil, get a straight racing oil with one viscosity.

What benefit would this offer?
I would think that the polymeric viscosity modifiers of a multi-grade oil would offer considerably more utility and flexibility over the wide temperature range that many firearms are subjected to over that of a single grade racing motor oil.

Poor choice of words, I meant "crap" as in crap for guns but great for engines. Additives that condition and swell engine seals can gunk up in a gun.

Modern engine oil is designed to offer lubrication form a very wide variance of temperatures from below zero to temperatures far exceeding the temperature of your regular handgun or rifle. If you had a fully automatic weapon that was being belt fed, your barrel may see those temperatures but that would be irrelevant since the barrel doesn't really lubrication except for rust prevention the rest of your gun will not come close to the temperature of a fully warmed up engine. Especially not a range queen being shot 1 bullet per 3-5 seconds.

A single grade racing motor oil doesn't contain all the non lubricating additives needed for a multigrade oil so it will provide more lubrication. They also do not contain as many engine conditioning additives as found in conventional synthetic oil.

Check bobistheoilguy for more information but I think using a highly developed motor oil formula for an application that is distinctly different in requirements and temperature variation is not a good idea in general when there exists current products that are superior and intended for the purpose.

In a pinch or SHTF situation, I would use motor oil if I had nothing else left but I would even use Remington oil before I would use motor oil and I really don't like remington oil.

Have you been using this stuff for a time? I have a reason for asking...

I guess your question.

One of the downsides of the Wilson Ultima Lube and similar stuff is getting stiffer in the cold weather. That is the reason why I only use it at the range. I also do not use it on internals, since I do not want to leave remnants over them.
I especially like its' anodising protecting properties on the rails of the alloy framed pistols which it is really good at. When it is not cold, it really works well on the rails as a lube.

Regards.

FlyPenFly,

A single grade racing motor oil doesn't contain all the non lubricating additives needed for a multigrade oil so it will provide more lubrication. They also do not contain as many engine conditioning additives as found in conventional synthetic oil.

Guess that we will have to agree to disagree. :)

Fully synthetic (PAO base stock) oils do not have much in the way of 'non-lubricating' additives viscosity modifiers (for low and high temperature extremes) as regular automotive "Dino" does because they do not require such modifiers and they (especially the Mobil 1 motorcycle oils) have an abundance of ZDDP and Molybdenum (EP/AW additives) within their formulas.

I'm going to continue using synthetic motor oil without worry, but I'll be sure to let everyone know if it causes me to blow any crank bearings on my G17 :)

I have to agree with gunslinger. Additive pack is minimal in fully synthetic Group IV/V, even in Group III. I doubt that given gentle heat cycling of guns, it's gonna gunk it up.

I'm not sure what to make out of temperature range....I don't necessarily agree with racing oil with one viscosity range being better since temperature DOES vary on a firearm. I don't think anyone is fully aware of "ideal" viscosity range for lubricating firearms since many lubricants made for guns out there have varying viscosity, all the way from watery to thick grease...I'm sure that a firearm can handle whatever motor oil fine.

I frequent BITOG, but I doubt that I'd find anything about motoroil and firearms.

I believe that largest range viscosity in synthetics is Group IV/V Eneos 0w-50, it's interesting stuff. I'm sure that it can handle ANY temperature change that may come across a firearm. I personally won't put that in my car because my engine doesn't run that hot, but I'm sure that any 0-30, 5-30, 2-50, whatever, can be used on a firearm.

Gunslinger, if you are using 20w-50, why not use 0w-50 like Eneos? My opinion is that lower viscosity at lower temperature is ALWAYS better since good majority of engine wear occurs at cold temperature start-up where oil has not achieved operating temperature viscosity. Perhaps there is something special about motorcycle engines??

what lubes do you use

astroglide always has been my lube of choice :)

"Gunslinger, if you are using 20w-50, why not use 0w-50 like Eneos? My opinion is that lower viscosity at lower temperature is ALWAYS better since good majority of engine wear occurs at cold temperature start-up where oil has not achieved operating temperature viscosity. Perhaps there is something special about motorcycle engines??"


lvcat2004,

To answer your question, I have never heard of Eneos 0w50 until you mentioned it. I'll have to take a look at it and see what it has to offer.

I agree.
Your opinion about having lower viscosity at lower temperatures is absolutely correct since the lower the kinematic viscosity is at lower temps the better it will be circulated prior to warm up and engine wear is avoided. This is also why they tend to have a great deal of AW/EP additives which contribute to lubricity, ZDDP (Zinc DiAlkyl Dithio Phosphate) and molybdenum based compounds being the most common. VOA's of both M1 20w50 and 10w40 will confirm this.

They also need to have very high temperature degradation resistance since they also perform as the 'coolant' in the air cooled engines most commonly found on bikes (yes, I know that there are bikes with engines of larger displacement that are liquid cooled) and rely heavily upon VI's as well as its base stock chemistry to achieve this ressitance to thermal breakdown and loss of viscosity. As the temperature extremes in air cooled motorcycle engines can become quite severe during prolonged/extended idling sessions in hot weather or under heavy loading/high revs operation, I figure that any PAO based motorcycle oil can most likely handle just about anything that a handgun or hunting rifle can dish out and then some. Motorcycle engines also operate in both regimes of "hydrodynamic" (lubrication that occurs under high shear/pressure where the parts remain separated and 'float' on the oil film) as well as "boundary" lubrication (lubrication that occurs without sufficient film confined under pressure/shear) whereas firearms operate only in the boundary regime.

Clearly most automotive/motorcycle oils are 'up' to the task of 'alternative weapon's lubricant'. In fact, up until just a few years ago, the Armalite website had a technical note in their library that actually advocated the use of Mobil 1 motor oil as an acceptable expedient/substitute lubricant.

I frequent BITOG, but I doubt that I'd find anything about motoroil and firearms.

Start a thread there. What have you got to lose? :D Bet it would be pretty interesting!

Found the 'specs' on Eneos 0w50:

Eneos 0w50
Typical Properties:

Quality grade: RG/API SM

SAE viscosity grade: 0W-50
Appearance: Orange
Density (15°C): 0.847 g/cm3

Flash point (COC): 232.0° C / 449.6° F

Kinematic viscosity:
(40°C), mm2/s 104 cSt
(100°C), mm2/s 18.0 cSt

Viscosity index: 192
Pour point: -45.0° C / -49.0° F

TAN, mgKOH/g: 2.3
TBN (HCl), mgKOH/g: 6.4

Color (ASTM): L3.0

Interesting stuff!

Thanks! :)

astroglide always has been my lube of choice

Now,who didn't see that one coming?

:D

http://www.500whp.com/catalog/images/eneos_0w_50.jpg

Eneos is Nippon Oil, it's one of the largest oil distributors in Japan. There are stores locally here in Las Vegas that carry them, but they are pretty expensive, somewhere in the range of $10/quart or around there, which is perfectly fine for lubricating guns, but it's too high of a viscosity for my car, besides, I'd rather have GC for $6/quart. Eneos supplies motor oil for high-revving 18k/rpm Honda Formula one engines, so it can't be too shabby. It's a Group IV/V high polymer ester.

After using WD-40 as my go to protectant for over 35 years,I have never experienced ANY gumming or rusting or excessive wear. I have even used it to dissolve gum and residue left by other lubes. I usually apply a light coat after a hot soapy water cleaning of gun parts and let the carrier agent dry before reassembly. All of my guns are clean and gum free. I also use it after the final hot water rinse during blueing,appling it while the parts are still hot.

FP-10 and SLOS Grease

for the glock

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v712/yongxingliang/photo-1.jpg

Rem-oil and weapon protection

I am BIG FAN and believer in Tetra gun care products they really work! My firearms clean up FAST after using the lubricant and grease it's like they are teflon coated!! :)

http://hunting.about.com/library/weekly/aa001121.htm


Available from MidwayUSA

Tetra Gun Copper Bore Cleaning Solvent 4 oz Liquid
Tetra Gun Action Blaster Gun Cleaner-Degreaser 18 oz Aerosol
Tetra Gun Lubricant Gun Oil 4 oz Liquid
Tetra Gun Grease 1 oz Tube

All of my guns get CLP, works great. Also, its good enough for the Marines, its good enough for me.:)

Breakfree, Hoppes, or TriFlow. Which ever one is on hand at the time.

I use Eezox on everything. No additional lube needed.

Weapon Shield takes care of everything..cleaning, lubrication, protection.

break free on everything except the firing pins in my bolt action rifles... those get a light touch of eezox... but handguns get break free everywhere..

Hoppe's products for copper removal and cleaning. Lube is Mobil One 5W-30. For semi-auto slide rails I use Artilary red grease...

While I used to use Tetra oil, found it took thick and would gum too much. Switched to Remington oil, found it thin enough it didn't offer the protection I wanted, especially on my day to day carry gun. I'm now using Shooters Choice FP10 on everything, so far it's great.

I use Tetra gun grease sparingly on all moving parts, slides, bolts, McFarland gas ring, etc.

http://www.tetraproducts.com/images/productshots/TETRA-GUN-GREASE.gif (http://www.tetraproducts.com/product_view.asp?ID=1) Click on image to visit Tetra site.

Castrol 20W-50 Motorcycle blend and Break Free CLP.

Damian

Either Break Free CLP or Eezox with Tetra Gun Grease on the rails
of sem-auto's.

*FootNote: some weapons polished with Ren Wax for that beautiful shine~!

McCain-Palin On Nov. 4th~!

I stole a galloon of CLP when I left the army in 1993, and I still haven't used it all. When I do, I think I'll look at M1 5w30 synthetic, since that's what all my cars take anyway.

I use Mobile 1 on everything.

Hoppes gun grease on the rails and barrel lug, WD40 for rust prevention. On revolvers I use either Rem-Oil or CLP for lube and WD40 for rust prevention.