Rust on my garand


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Smithers
April 9, 2008, 11:18 PM
So...

I recently purchased a garand from AIM advertised as excellent wood and metal condition. I got the gun yesterday, and it looked great. I did noticed that some minor parts looked reparked, but that's ok. The stock looks brand new so I think it must have been replaced.

Today, I noticed some orange color on the rails. Uh oh. :cuss: I took out my flashlight and I inspected my gun very closely. There is definitely some spackling of rust on the receiver. Particularly the area around the serial number. Underneath the receiver, where the metal touches the wood, there is some pitting. It's not deep but it's there. Some rust seems to be peaking out from the chamber. The bore looks okay.

So what do I do? Cursory research tells me that I can hit it with some OOOO steel wool and oil. What do I do with the pitting? Should I use a steel brush and oil for that? How much would it cost to get this reparked?

Lastly, I paid about $800 for this gun. Did I overpay for a garand in this condition?

I'll take some pictures later tonight. The batteries died on my camera just now. :banghead:

More info:
The stock is definitely not original. "Boyd's"

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MutinousDoug
April 9, 2008, 11:34 PM
The price you paid "seems" a bit much for a rusty gun, but I don't know what retail is. The value shows up in the target for me. Not knowing the make or provenance, some allowance could be made. Gun shows in Colorado show mixmaster Garands in mediocre condition for $695-850. None that I'd be interested in. YMMV

Neo-Luddite
April 9, 2008, 11:45 PM
Pitting under the tail of the receiver where it rubs the stock is...well, it just happens. I've heard it explained as 'friction corrosion', etc.

0000 + oil is the first and best option. DON'T jump to repark--if done badly (mine was, at least the blasting was) markings end up worn, etc. And what do you get? Unless you're going to live in a salt marsh, regular upkeep and light oil will keep rust away. If you want it to be a battlefield-ready weapon (ie. fresh park is needed for this--maybe??) consider that if your tail depended on it you would clean it at every turn anyway. Once more, you could paint non-working surfaces if needed. Long story short--a repark gets you little but heartache.

Was this rifle not as described? Very hard to say.

Smithers
April 10, 2008, 12:34 AM
Painting the pitted area sounds like a good idea. Should I use a steel brush on the pits and paint over it?

I don't know. Today has been a bad day for me. Some mechanic tries to convince me to pay $700 to change my brakes, tires, etc. when all I wanted was them to change my front brakes. Would have ended up costing $170, but I refused to pay and tried to leave. Then they gave me a "deal" for $120. Gawd.

My boss is riding my ass the whole time about coming to work. What the heck does he want me to do about it? Can't really drive my car without WHEELS can I?!! :cuss:

Sorry about the rant.

Neo-Luddite
April 10, 2008, 12:28 PM
No, I would skip painting altogether--just keep it lubed--you can't fix the pitting. What I meant was if you suddenly needed to, you could do it last minute for added protection against weather.

Don't go at it with steel; oil and let it sit a while--days even--work into the pitting with a toothbrush or copper/bronze brush at most.

It's hard to reconcile yourself to rust--rust happens. The upside is, the pitting will not likely be an issue to the servicability of the receiver for a couple hundred years or more.

Rant OK--good luck with car/boss.

30Cal
April 10, 2008, 12:42 PM
Good penetrating oil and 0000 or a copper penny.

Smithers
April 10, 2008, 08:48 PM
Good penetrating oil and 0000 or a copper penny.

Huh? What do I do with the copper penny? :confused:

dscottw88
April 10, 2008, 09:13 PM
Sorry to break in and ask such a silly question, but what is Pitting?

nbkky71
April 10, 2008, 10:08 PM
...what is pitting

cavities left in the steel due to rust

http://www.odcmp.com/Photos/M-1GradeCReceivers/slides/M-1GarandGrdC4.jpg

dscottw88
April 10, 2008, 10:26 PM
that sucks, cosmoline can prevent this correct? or at least slow the process?

30Cal
April 11, 2008, 02:45 PM
Good penetrating oil and 0000 or a copper penny.

Huh? What do I do with the copper penny?

Rub the corrosion products off the steel. Won't hurt the surrounding parkerization. Or use steel wool. Either one will work.

JHansenAK47
April 11, 2008, 08:08 PM
that sucks, cosmoline can prevent this correct? or at least slow the process?

Cosmoline is for long term storage of firearms. If you want to shoot the gun you have to clean off the cosmoline. Not really practical for a gun that gets used.

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