[Eightball]

I have a question for all the gurus about the extraction of odd-shot-number revolvers, as in, non-even. On my S&W 620, often times when I am getting the brass out of the cylinder, one round (possibly 2, depends on cylinder alignment) gets hung up on the standard Hogue grips, and doesn't fall free as effortlessly as the others. I'm not saying the brass won't come out of the chamber, but just that, in it's outward travel, it hits the top/front edge of the grip, and I either jiggle the case away or use my hand or something similar (Yeah, I know, huge problem, right?). Now, I like those Hogue grips, they fit my hand dang near perfectly, and makes shooting full-house magnum loads a breeze, but this extraction thing always bugs me a little. Is there a way to fix it that doesn't involve going to less-adequate grips? And, if the solution required eating away at the part of the grip that the brass hangs on, would that be a "domino" reaction (i.e., the little etching gets caught on things and breaks off another piece, etc etc etc)?

Or is this common with no way to fix it, and I'm just used to having no issues with brass from my autoloaders?

[rgs1975]

Don't have this problem at all on my 586 7 shot .357 but I don't have big Hogue's on it either. I've got stag magna grips w/ medallians and they're slim enough that the casings completely clear them on extraction.

I've seen many S&W target grips with the football shaped cutout that is made specifically for clearance of ejecting shells. If you could do that to your Hogues you'd be good to go.

[rcmodel]

Point the barrel up and hit the ejector rod a couple of times and they should all fall free.

All revolvers eject much better with the barrel pointed slightly skyward.

rcmodel

[BlindJustice]

I have a similiar problem with my 686P - but I don't think it is related to
having an odd number of rounds in the cylinder. My MOdel 60 3" Bbl. unlike
the shorter snubbies has a full length extractor rod - and yes I always
point the barrel up - it ejects the rounds.

Point of clarification - what kind of Hogue grips do you have O.P.? Are these other than the rubber grips that are stock on the S&W? Are they
oversize for recoil management ?

I have Guy Hogue K/L Compact size, with finger grooves & checkering
in Rosewood. THey are not overlly big toward the top, at the bottom
they curve down and forward kinda like the bottom of the old Colt Bisley
Behind the trigger guard the grip comes forward toward the
rear of the trigger guard and wraps upward and a llittle around the
horizontal bottom portion of the frame

My problem is when ejecting .357 Mag cartridges more often than not
two empties hang up on the cylinder thumb latch so I have to twist the cylinder sligtly then they drop, the other interference with the thumb latch
is with the HKS 587 SPeedloader(s) - the speedloader is right up against
the thumb latch - I think this wouldn't be a problem with a 6 round cylinder
as the rounds wouldn't be so crowded together.

I also have a 625 .45 ACP and with full moon clips it beats the crap out of the 686P / HKS 587 Speedloader combo for reloading besides being a much
more enjoyable revolver to shoot.

.

[Eightball]

Point the barrel up and hit the ejector rod a couple of times and they should all fall free.I do this, the one still hangs up.
Point of clarification - what kind of Hogue grips do you have O.P.? Are these other than the rubber grips that are stock on the S&W? Are they
oversize for recoil management ? Stock things that came on it, I'm unaware of if this is "oversize" or no.
I think this wouldn't be a problem with a 6 round cylinder
as the rounds wouldn't be so crowded together. That's my thought process, but I don't actually own a 6 shot revolver--only an old-time 8-round .22 that's a side-gate, and this.

[rgs1975]

8-ball,

Easy way to see if it's the grips actually causing the problems. Take them off, toss a handful of empty shells in the cylinder and see if they eject without problem. If they do, then the grips are the issue, if they still stick the problem is something else.

[sfhogman]

To me, it sounds like a perfectly good excuse to buy a set of Kim Ahrend's grips. I just got a set for my 620 and am very pleased.

http://www.ahrendsgripsusa.com/

Jeff

[RobertFBurnett]

To me, it sounds like a perfectly good excuse to buy a set of Kim Ahrend's grips. I just got a set for my 620 and am very pleased.

http://www.ahrendsgripsusa.com/

+1 Love mine!
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg82/RFB7575/686standing.jpg

RFB

P.S. Is that the little football shape thing for the shells on the left of the grip?

[rgs1975]

P.S. Is that the little football shape thing for the shells on the left of the grip?Yes and no. The spot you speak of on your grips is to make extraction easier. But when I was referring to the "football" I was talking about the cut out on S&W targets. Below is a photo of the S&W Rosewood Targets on my Model 16 no dash. The grip on the right has the "football" cutout.

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/8540/ktargetoutsidert1.jpg

[rcmodel]

The football cut on old S&W Target grips was strictly for ejection clearance.

The much deeper cuts and releived areas you see on grips now are for Speed-Loader clearance.

There were no, or at lease very few speedloaders around when the S&W oversize Target grip was first designed.

rcmodel

[20nickels]

rcmodel, How's your lubrisized thumb? :p

You can cut or dremel on the rubber Hogues, but it is ugly. Some just cut out the needed space. If you go the dremel route, put them in the freezer overnight 1st. If it is ugly and functional it is not stupid.