[Afy]

Are Moly coated bullets worth the extra ££££?

I have ordered some, but am not too sure about whteher or not I should load them.

[mek42]

I have no experience with these, but recall reading something somewhere that recommended either ONLY using moly bullets or NOT using them. Something to look into - maybe someone more knowledgeable will comment.

[Walkalong]

No, although some will disagree with me. :)

[PotatoJudge]

From what I've read it doesn't sound like it'd be worth the extra time and work, much less the money.

[fineredmist]

The difference between moly coated and uncoated is not worth talking about. In humble opinion it is a solution looking for a problem. Save your $$$$$$$$.

[CBS220]

They make a terrible mess on your hands and whatever else they are in contact with.

I've never seen any real benefits to them, and while they don't cost much more (generally a dollar or two more a box) I don't bother with them.

[rcmodel]

recommended either ONLY using moly bullets or NOT using them.That's good advice.

Once you get moly in the bore, plain bullets probably won't shoot as well, and the moly is almost impossible to clean out. Regardless, you can't just switch back & forth.

rcmodel

[Bullet]

You might check this out -

http://www.norma.cc/content.asp?Typ=27&Lang=2&DocumentID=399&Submeny=3&Rubrik=Diamond%20line&Title=Diamond%20line

http://www.norma.cc/content.asp?Typ=27&Lang=2&DocumentID=398&Submeny=3&Rubrik=Diamond%20line&Title=Barrels%20retain%20accuracy%20longer%20with%20Diamond%20Line


.

[rodregier]

Hornady and Lapua offer molyed match-grade projectiles. Lapua also offers match ammunition w/moly.

[Blackfork]

Used the for a while when I was first learning to shoot. Pointless.

Distinguished Rifle now, High Master, Texas Highpower Champ this year, et,et. Won the LEG match at Beaumont a couple weeks ago.

69 bare Sierra Matchkings on 26 grains of Varget in a LC case with a CCI 450 primer. Then watch the front sight.

[Coltdriver]

I would recommend that you go over to the http://www.sprinco.com/plateplus.html site.

You can pick up a bottle of MOS2 liquid and treat your barrel.

Fouling pretty much goes away.

They also have some fairly good test data to show that the moly bullets do go a bit faster in the barrel at first but then they do slow down as the moly wears off a third or so of the way down the barrel.

If you treat the barrel with the MSO2 you will get a consistent increase in speed.

But the biggest benefit is that the fouling pretty much disappears.

The other great thing about this product is that you can get a silk smooth trigger by only treating the trigger group. I have a Browning HP with the mag release and the firing pin block that I treated and it is smooth as silk. I used a different brand but the effect is the same. The treating part is simple, uncomplicated and won't get you thrown out of the house by your SO.

I treat all of my pistols and rifles with the stuff now and I have never felt the need for any further work on a trigger. Works great on anything that has a metal to metal interface, bolts etc.

[snuffy]

Here's the drill for moly. A rifle bore needs to be "conditioned" to use moly. By that meaning some of the moly rubs off each bullet as it passes down the bore. Once it builds up to a certain point, you will see the accuracy "settle in". It takes around 40 rounds to achieve that. Also you MUST start with a completely bare, clean bore, one with NO copper or powder fouling present.

Use of a molly bore prep will pre-load the bore with moly, making the conditioning a quicker job. They usually shoot good right away.

Moly was first used as a bullet lubricant by prairie dog shooters that shoot big bunches of rounds while on a large dog town. The don't want to stop to clean copper fouling out of their bores. Moly allows them to keep shooting without loss of accuracy caused by copper fouling. Then when accuracy DID start to suffer, cleaning was a much easier job, the rifles clean up in 1/10 the time.

For the average joe hunter or weekend shooter, it's not worth the bother. I bought a midway kit, did my bullets for a while, but saw no advantage to it.

Commercial molyed bullets aren't that dirty. They usually are coated with wax that pretty much seals them from rubbing off on you hands.

[ieszu]

I believe (not sure) that molyed bullets increase pressure... at least my Barnes reloading book says so....

Something to be careful of.

[Bullet]

Blackfork

Nope.

Used the for a while when I was first learning to shoot. Pointless.

Distinguished Rifle now, High Master, Texas Highpower Champ this year, et,et. Won the LEG match at Beaumont a couple weeks ago.

69 bare Sierra Matchkings on 26 grains of Varget in a LC case with a CCI 450 primer. Then watch the front sight.


If you want credentials you might see what David Tubb has to say -

http://www.zediker.com/articles/mca.pdf


.

[Walkalong]

From a pure accuracy standpoint, Benchresters tried them and very few still use them today. End of story.

I had one barrel that shot them pretty well without fouling, but another that was a disaster. I was one who gave up on them.

[Coltdriver]

Hey Snuffy,

I knew a fellow who was a lifelong prarie dog shooter. Took about 1000 dogs a year with a variety of rifles, all Ruger #1's. He went through the small bores, 22-250, and the Swift and arrived at the 243 via the 6BR.

He settled on a #1 in .243 which he had re cut to AI.

He had a couple of witnessed shots of PD's at 1000 yards with that .243.

He loved moly. Tumbled everything.

And to chime in, you must start with a bare clean barrel and shoot moly only.

I did my .243 project with him in mind. My post on the project is here. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=175899&highlight=Project
In fact I inherited a set of AI Custom Dies from him.

Beyond the convenience of reduced fowling with either method I think its easier to treat the barrel once rather than the bullets every time. And shooting copper down the barrel is a non issue.

[snuffy]

I believe (not sure) that molyed bullets increase pressure... at least my Barnes reloading book says so....

Something to be careful of.

Actually it's just the opposite. Since it reduces friction, the pressure is lower as long as all other things stay the same. You also loose a bit of velocity which is caused by the lower pressure. You can gain that lost vel. by increasing the powder.

Beyond the convenience of reduced fowling with either method I think its easier to treat the barrel once rather than the bullets every time. And shooting copper down the barrel is a non issue.

Treating just the barrel is fine, but it has to be re-done at regular intervals, especially after cleaning. It's not permanent. And it is not as consistent as treating every bullet.

There's vicious rumors out there about moly causing corrosion by means of some imagined chemical reaction. IMHO it's just a myth.

[Clark]

Moly is a discipline to reduce Copper fouling.

Most deer hunters cannot maintain moly discipline.
Most deer hunters cannot identify Copper fouling.
Most deer hunters cannot get Copper fouling out of a barrel.

Most varmint hunters can maintain moly discipline.
Most varmint hunters can identify Copper fouling.
Most varmint hunters can get Copper fouling out of a barrel.

All benchrest competitors can maintain moly discipline.
All benchrest competitors can identify Copper fouling.
All benchrest competitors can get Copper fouling out of a barrel.


I read that half the benchrest competitors use moly, and they clean ~13 shots with moly and ~8 shots without.

Most varmint hunters I know use moly, and we can go 500 shots and still get 1 moa.

Most deer hunters I know use factory ammo that is non moly.


My personal system is:
Hard cast bullets up to 1200 fps
Cast bullets with gas check up to 1800 fps
Copper jacketed up to 2600 fps
Copper jacketed with moly up to 3600 fps

Moly or not moly is no way as important as the quality of the barrel bore. I have factory lapped bores that are like mirrors and crummy barrels rough as a cob inside. The rough bore will scratch right through the moly and right into the Copper.


Walt Berger:
Q: If I use Moly Coated bullets how should I clean my barrel?
A:
The following is one way to clean when using Moly Coated bullets. It is not likely the only way you can clean if you are using Moly Coated bullets.
1. Push one patch wet with Kroil Oil through the barrel
2. Repeat step 1.
3. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
4. Repeat step 3.
5. Push one patch wet with Butch's Bore Shine through the barrel.
6. Repeat step 5.
7. Let the barrel soak for 5 to 10 minutes.
8. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
9. Repeat step 8.
10. Using short strokes back and forth push one patch wet with USP or JB Bore Paste through the barrel.
11. Push one patch wet with Kroil through the barrel.
12. Repeat step 11 twice.
13. Push one dry patch through the barrel.
14. Repeat step 13 three times.
15. Use bore scope or visually inspect muzzle for copper fouling.
16. If copper is present repeat steps 10 through 15.
17. If you are storing the rifle push one patch wet with quality gun oil through the barrel.

Q: How do I break in a barrel using Moly Coated bullets?
A: Moly Coated bullets will not shoot consistently until a barrel is properly broken in with Moly Coated bullets. Walt Berger has found the following procedure to work best in his barrels.
For a new barrel:

1. Shoot one Moly Coated bullet then clean using the Moly Coated cleaning procedure listed above.
2. Repeat step 1 five times.
3. Shoot three Moly Coated bullets then clean using the Moly Coated cleaning procedure listed above.
4. Repeat step 3 five times.

For a broken in barrel:

1. Thoroughly clean the barrel.
2. Shoot ten Moly Coated bullets then clean using the Moly Coated cleaning procedure listed above.

Your barrel is now ready to shoot Moly Coated bullets.

[Walkalong]

I read that half the benchrest competitors use moly,
Outdated. 98% gave up on it in an accuracy oriented sport. Some folks still like the idea of not cleaning all weekend though.

[gandog56]

Extra money? I find them just a little more expensive than cast and a little less expensive than copper plated, and a whole lot less than jacketed.