[Fedaykin]

I finally got the coin to go buy a Uberti Outlaw .45LC today. I had to get out and shoot it as soon as I got home, and the first 6 rounds seemed to go fine. I then loaded it up again, and it started acting like there wasn't enough space between the cylinder and the top of the frame. It would literally almost jam when the bullets would rotate past the top of the frame (where the firing pin hole is). If I just put in one I can rotate it around with difficulty and if I take the cartridge out and look at it I can see the wear on the back end where it's been rubbed.

Is this a common issue that will work itself out or could this be a lemon? This is my first 45LC and I want to put some more rounds through it as soon as I can! Thanks ahead of time for any help.

[Fedaykin]

Also, could this be an ammo thing?

[cane]

Did you clean it first?

[Fedaykin]

No I did not. I've always cleaned my rifles, like the AK and Mosin and such before shooting because of the heavy grease on them when first purchased. I guess I'd never considered cleaning a new gun that didn't have a noticeable amount of grease on it before shooting for the first time. Is this common practice? If it is, then I will definately start doing that. However, if this could have something to do with what looks like a lack of spacing in my revolver, could you please explain how? Not saying it doesn't, I'm probably just too inexperienced to see how. Thank you for the response.

[tinroad37e]

You should disassemble it and clean all the "gunk" out of it, and I assure you it is dirty. Every Uberti revolver and rifle I have owned were full of some sort of grey grime. They're really easy to disassemble. On the Outlaw, it is a little difficult to get the hammer spring back in the groove located at the bottom of the grip. Clean it out and oil the internals. Also, look for rough edges on the internals. Use a stone and remove any rough areas. I have in the past sent my Uberti revolvers to reputable gunsmiths for a cowboy action job. It usually runs about $125 and makes a noticeable difference. They will stone and polish the internal parts and the receiver, install lighter springs, and a host of other things. I recommend you go to the following website:
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/. It is full of experts in the cowboy action shooting arena. Does the cylinder bind when it's empty? What brand of ammo do you shoot?
I have Uberti 1873 models, outlaw, and 2 Ruger new model Vaqueros. They're very addictive and I hate to see you had a bad experience with your first single action revolver. I have had initial problem too, but I have learned enough to repair and maintain them myself. The Vaqueros are my favorite. The comparison of the Ruger Vaquero and the Uberti models (Cimarron, EMF, Taylors) is a sensitive subject in the cowboy action arena.

[rcmodel]

Feel around on the recoil shield for machining burs. Also look for brass streaks on the recoil shield indication where the cases are dragging.
Also check the firing pin hole and make sure it isn't peened outward from dry-firing the gun.
There should be nothing rough to snag a cartridge on the recoil shield.

If you find a bur, stone it off, or take the gun back where you got it and have them fix it.

This can also be caused by a minimum headspace problem.
That can be caused by a defective gun, or defective ammo (thick rims).

BTW: Cleaning a SA isn't going to give you more headspace if it doesn't have enough!

rcmodel

[Jim K]

It sounds like powder crud is getting under the cartridge rim. If cleaning does not correct the problem and it does not seem to be ammo, the headspace is too short.

If it seems to be only on a couple of adjacent chambers, the rear of the cylinder is probably not perfectly square, a problem a gunsmith with the right tools can fix. But with a new gun, it would be foolish to pay for a fix.

Take the gun back to the dealer, explain the problem, and see what he says. He should say that he will return it to the importer/factory and exchange it right now for one that works right.

Jim

[Fedaykin]

Thanks guys for all the input. I'm going to thoroughly clean this bad boy, and then go over it as close as I can for irregularities (burs and such). Hopefully I can work this out and it isn't a headspace issue. I used to have an old navy .44 black powder revolver and it seemed to have a much smoother and lighter action. Meaning the hammer pulled back very smoothly and easily. This one if kind of rough and requires a little effort to get the hammer cocked. We'll see what the cleaning and inspection can do for me. Also, to answer one poster's question, no it does not bind when empty.

[Fedaykin]

Also, as I'm new to SA revolvers, how difficult should this hammer be to cock. My only other revolver I had (SA) was a long long time ago and (being too young probably for a gun) I only shot it a couple times and used it mostly for fondling, and so I remember it being a joy to cock back and slowly release. This one will make my thumb sore after a short while. I actually can't even thumb it back while keeping my regular grip for shooting. I have to scootch up the grip and get it with the crook of my hand between the thumb and index to cock it back. Hopefully I'm not just a weakling :) (doubtful, I ain't that small).

[rcmodel]

Many factory SA hammer springs are way too strong, just like old Colts used to be. When they copied them, they certainly copied the spring! Some of the old black-powder Colts almost took two hands to cock.

Get a Wolff replacement spring after you get the other problem figured out.
http://gunsprings.com/Revolver/Colt_RvNF.html#SAA

rcmodel

[DPris]

If your cylinder is binding up during rotation, that adds drag & poundage to your hammer.
Where on the cartridge case is the rub mark, across the primer & brass or some other part of the brass? Does the firing pin hole have a removable bushing? If so, is it raised above the surface of the breech and dragging on the brass or across the primer? The gun should have nothing in or around that firing pin hole that sticks up above the frame to drag on cases.
Do you have the right caliber ammunition? Are you shooting reloads? If reloads, do the primers stick up above the surface in their cups?

This could be a number of things.
Denis

[Virginian]

If it only drags after firing some rounds, it is dirt buildup keeping the cartriges from seating fully, or the cylinder is moving back and staying there. I suspect the cylinder is moving on the bushing.

[DPris]

Another cause if it drags on fired brass might be a low firing pin hole bushing, allowing primer setback.
Are the primers high in their pockets on empty brass?
Denis

[Fedaykin]

I just cleaned the heck of out it. It drags on empties and non-empties. I checked it for burs and didn't see any thing, it all looks very smooth. After spinning a full cylinder for a while and then removing it I can look around the firing pin hole and see the path of the rims where they are rubbing. It seems to begin right at the firing pin hole and rubs all the way until they clear the frame.
My question is, since it seem the problem is pretty simple, would it be unwise of me to polish it or take a little off of the effected area with sandpaper and a file or dremel? If so, how much space SHOULD there be between the rims and the firing pin hole and the areas on the frame to each side of the firing pin hole? Thanks for all the input. I think I'm going to get one of those lighter springs you guys recommended also just to make things easier for the old thumb.

[Fedaykin]

Also the rub marks on the cartridges seem to be around the primer (not on it) and a little towards the outside of the rim.

[longboard]

I hate to be the one to give you bad news....................... but,
You should send it to Uberti and let them fix it.
Do not, I repeat Do not use a dremil on it. Very bad JuJu.
I am sure it will turn out well in the end, those are good looking pistols.
Longboard

[Markbo]

Change your ammo first. That may be it. Sounds like the frame is out of square or there is something on the FP hole that is causing it. Can you post a nice closeup of the inside of the frame?

[DPris]

Return it.
Denis

[Dismantler]

I would take it back to the dealer. If this has a warranty on it, you will lose it if you amateur smith it yourself.

[351 WINCHESTER]

45LC ctgs. are known for a wide variance of the thickness and diamenter of the rim. I agree with all of the previous posts. I once had a 1909 Army revolver that would not extract the spent shells. I thought someone had "modified" the gun. Turns out the Army had special ammo for this gun with rims having a diamenter greater than the standard .45lc.

[Fedaykin]

Thanks for all the input everyone. I'm going to run it back to the shop this evening and they are going to try some different ammo and possibly send it back for a new one.

Darn the luck...

[Fedaykin]

Good news and bad news. Good news is I'm getting a new revolver. Bad news is I don't know if I want to let these guys hold a loaded gun ever again.

The only one left in the shop by the time I got in was a new young guy. He was expecting me and had a couple brands of 45LC to try. He loaded it up, it bound up tighter than before so that he couldn't even rotate it. But he proceeded to give it his best shot by putting a hand on each side of the fully loaded cylinder and pulling the barrel directly into his chest for support(the hammer half-cocked). I said don't blow a hole in your chest and he then proceeds to turn it around and point the loaded jammed gun right at my head while trying to unjam it. I walked away until he finished but wow.

Anyway that's some gun safety right there.

[DerbyDale]

You should have told him to put his finger in the end of the barrel like Bugs Bunny, just in case the gun accidentally went off. :rolleyes:

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