Can you mountain-gun-ize an N-frame?


August 13, 2003, 09:35 PM
Greetings. I was wondering if it's even remotely affordable to have some of the excess steel cut off of a full-underlugged N-frame. Everyone on the board seems to have outstanding things to say about the 610, but there's a whole ton o' metal on those things. Full underlug, unfluted cylinder, etc. Opposite end of the spectrum: the N-frame mountain-gun models (or 1917s) feel much better in the hand. Is having some of the excess steel ground away feasible, or does the cost far outweigh the benefit?

If you enjoyed reading about "Can you mountain-gun-ize an N-frame?" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!
August 13, 2003, 10:01 PM
I'd say cost outweighs any benefit .. cos you could better spend money on a gun more to your liking I'd think.

Plus ... for me .... weight is useful ...... I used to use a 686 for compo's years back .. I even made an add on weight which slid over lug and locked on ... made it very heavy but accuracy and aim recovery benefitted .... it reduced my POI by 6 full inches at 25 yds .... 6" lower that is ....

For heavier loads I like weight .. :)

Spend on another gun!!:evil:

August 13, 2003, 11:13 PM
Part of the problem is that there isn't any similar firearm that's any trimmer. The only folks who build 10mm revolvers are Ruger and S&W, and only S&W makes DA revos. Best of my knowledge, all 4" 610s are full-underlugged, and most are unfluted. Or am I overlooking some other option?

The 610 just seems such an exceptional piece for the convenience of moonclips, the affordability of .40 S&W, the power of 10mm, and the potential for rechambering to 10mm Mag, which allegedly puts it in the ranks of the .41 Mag. It's just that they build N-frames so heavy these days...

August 13, 2003, 11:25 PM
Hmmm ... ''trimmer'' ...... guess that may be a prob. I'm not a huge fan of half moons and also ... I'd say ''N'' frame is actually about perfect for weight etc .. for me. It is after all S&W's largest revo frame and is built for strength.

Here is my M27-2 with 5" tube . I'd sure not want to lose any metal from this!!! (Blueing BTW is near perfect but finger marks and lighting make it look other than what it is!! )

Anyways .. I still don't think what might be a huge bill would be worth it to remove metal as you describe!

Old Fuff
August 14, 2003, 09:41 AM
This seems like a lot of trouble, but you could:

Order a "in the white" .38/44 barrel from Numrich Gun Parts Co. ( These are semi-finished, 6 inches long and cost under $25.00 The outside configuration is the same as a mountain gun.

The barrel could be shortened to any length you want and the front sight remounted.

Then bored and rifled to 10mm and finished in matt-chrome to match the stainless gun.

I too prefer the regular rather then full underlug on any gun I'm going to carry around unless the barrel is 4 inches or less.

August 14, 2003, 08:47 PM

Old Fuff
August 14, 2003, 11:46 PM
Someone is offering a .44 Mountain Gun barrel on for $80.00 (opening bid). I suppose it could be lined to 10mm. Again a possible, but probably expensive possibility. I don't think you are going to find an easy (read that inexpensive) way to get what you want. Frankly, I'd look for a model 27 or 28 with a 4" barrel and shoot .357 Magnums.

If you enjoyed reading about "Can you mountain-gun-ize an N-frame?" here in archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join today for the full version!