Tighten up a Stoeger double barrel?


April 16, 2008, 06:15 PM
I recently acquired a Stoeger 12 gage double barrel Coach Gun that has been used extensively in Cowboy Action Shooting. It seems loose and the barrels don't lock up tightly. The previous owner said it occasionally "opened" when he fired it if he pulled it down out of recoil for the next shot.

Is there any adjustment to tighten up the gun, or is it a lost cause?

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April 16, 2008, 06:24 PM
I'd guess that calling Stoeger might be a good idea if you like the firearm.
Maybe they have a suggestion.
Follow up with your findings and Thanks

April 16, 2008, 11:11 PM
We use a spray welding set-up for building up the lump or lug as it's called, it does not take much to do the job but it does take practice.
The same can be done to the locking block but tightening up the barrels might take care of the opening on firing problem.
I think the cost is $175.00 but check our web site or call the shop if you get time.
It really is not a big deal to add a bit of weld, it just takes time and a marking die to fit it, you need to get full coverage on the piece so it fits right.
just don't linger when heating up the barrel lump, you don't want to de-solder anything.
This is an easier way than fitting a new hinge pin and you don't have to wory about any engraving if there is on the hinge pin.

April 21, 2008, 09:44 AM
Here’s what I learned about Stoeger coach guns. Early production firearms had fairly soft steel in the working parts. Stoegers are very popular with Cowboy Action Shooters because they’re decent shotguns at a reasonable price. The guns are used hard when shot on the clock, jerked open, slammed shut. So my problem of wear on moving parts making the firearm loose in the joints is not uncommon. A local cowboy action shooter and gunsmith told me that my issue with the gun coming open after the first shot was due to wear on the barrel lug. He suggested I gently tap the top of the lug to peen the metal back to a sharp edge. He said to take it slow and check frequently to be sure there was tension on the opening lever through out the arc of movement. So I took a small ball peen hammer, tapped the top of the lug maybe a dozen times. Checked it out, tapped it another dozen. It now locks up tight as a new gun. The fore end still rattled, so I put a thin layer of J B Weld on the hook portion of the latch on the barrel. Bingo. Everything’s snugged up. I test fired the gun, pulling down as hard as I could on the barrels. Didn’t come open. I'm happy.

April 21, 2008, 10:56 AM
Coyote3855: Sir; thanks for following up. Interesting fix. Would you do a

April 21, 2008, 11:14 AM

Would I do a....???

Re-Reading my post, I should have said I tapped the face of the barrel lug that faces the breach near the top of the lug to re-establish a square corner at that point.

April 21, 2008, 11:23 AM
It's also not uncommon for CAS guys to put very light after-market springs in places they shouldn't.

Might want to check that too.

A light spring behind the locking block would certainly not help matters any.


April 21, 2008, 03:53 PM

Actually, the original spring had been clipped to achieve less tension on the opening lever. I replaced it with a CAS aftermarket spring because I couldn't find an OEM. The lighter spring doesn't seem to be part of the problem, but thanks for the advice.

Snow Dog
April 21, 2008, 06:52 PM
The best fix for long term use is to replace the hinge pin. This is not something you should try but have a 'smith familiar with doubles do it. Peening the hook will tighten things up for awhile but it will only be a short term fix. Another short term fix would be to put a bit of metallic muffler tape on the hook - it's cheap and easy but won't last long.

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