[Flashpoint]

I just bought a new p239 for carry and was elated to find that it fit in the holster that I use for my other carry gun, but I have recently discovered an unforeseen problem. After carrying the Sig around IWB for a day I noticed when I got it out the next day the slide release has started to rust :what: I thought this was odd because I never had this happen with the Steyr so I pulled them out to see what the difference was. Blow is a picture of what I found.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/148376/2guns.JPG
It seems the slide release sets quit a bit farther back on the Sig than it does on the Steyr causing it to be exposed and rust. So my question is, how can I keep this from happening short of wearing an under shirt or getting a new holster? Is there anything I can do to the slide release?

[boing]

I'm gonna say that any protectant you put on the lever is liable to be rubbed off over the course of the day.

Wax would probably hold up better than oil or grease. I use SCJohnson paste wax on lots of gun stuff, with good results.

Hard chrome would be ideal, though. :)

[Flashpoint]

Hard chroming would be nice,but alas, my pockets have no such depths. What is SCJohnson paste wax, and were can you find it? I had thought about trying Tutle wax, is the paste wax simular?

[SouthpawShootr]

You need not have deep pockets to have this done. 239 slides are stainless and the frames are aluminum. I would think that all you'd need to have refinished would be the slide release and, maybe, the hammer. I've not had my 239 out for a while, so I don't know whether removal of the slide release would be simple enough for your average everyday handyman, but if it is, you might consider removing the offending parts and sending them for refinishing. Try the wax first though and see what happens.

[WhoKnowsWho]

If you don't want to bother with the wax, get a holster with a sweat guard. My Don Hume has one and the F.I.S.T lineup has that option to add on just about all of them. Also, no steel to skin contact at all which should feel better.

[Standing Wolf]

...how can I keep this from happening short of wearing an under shirt or getting a new holster?

Steel against skin rubs me the wrong way.

[CWL]

Try wax first.

You can also use clear or black touch-up paint, hobby paint or clear nail polish to thinly coat the slide-release. Make sure that the paint you use is thin so it won't go on thickly. Make sure that the metal is degreased and free of rust before application.

[Tecolote]

CLP! Wax or paint will come off and the problem will start again. A quality rust inhibitor like CLP will solve the problem. Clean your P239 thoroughly and apply a coat of CLP, remove, repeat until the rust is gone. Use CLP once a week and your problem will be solved.

[boing]

CLP won't last. It wipes off just as easy as it wipes on, and even if it doesn't wipe off, corrosive sweat can get under the CLP and attack the metal (oil floats on water). Wax goes on kind of wet, but then the solvents in it evaporate off, leaving a dry, smudge resistant layer of protection. It still wipes off, but not as easily.

Johnson paste wax is just...wax. Intended for wood furniture, mostly, but works on lots of things. I think car waxes are similar, but the Johnson wax is kind of a classic in this area.

I bought mine at WalMart where the floor cleaners/waxes and other household cleaning supplies are. Comes in a round yellow can, ol' timey like.

You really should dish out for a new holster with a sweat guard, I guess. I like the nail polish trick, too. :)

[Flashpoint]

As usual lots of good advise to be found here on THR. I like the nail polish idea, I'm sure I can find some in black. I'll probably try that or the Turtle Wax thing until I can maybe find a holster with a sweet guard. Anyone have any knowledge or links to sites detailing how to disassemble a p239? I have a friend that knows a guy who does hard chroming at one of the factories around here. If things work out right I might just have him chrome a few of the parts.

[usnavymasterchief]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax on my blued guns with great results.
I live in hot and humid central Florida, the saying here is "if it's blued you're screwed" but the Johnson's works well for me. I would suggest at least two coats and let it dry thoroughly before you buff it off. I got this tip from a guy who lives in Alaska so I guess it works in all climates.

[Ala Dan]

Sadly, this is the only downfall of SIG's with the
standard blued finish. The advent of the "Nitron"
finish should alleviate this problem; but since
you already own this particular firearm, I'd try
a little "Break Free CLP" on a rag to see if you
can remove the rust.

FootNote- NEVER, EVER leave handguns
in leather! Leather attracts moisture, and causes
rust to form on most* handguns.

* The exception being stainless steel handguns
of course, and Glock's have the "Tennifer" process
applied to eliminate rust.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

[usnavymasterchief]

ALA DAN Stainless will pit and rust in a leather holster especially in hot and humid areas. My fishing buddy left an Interarms Walther PPK/S in a holster in the glove box of his pickup for a couple of months. The result was deep pitting and black rust over all the sharp edges of the slide and trigger guard. Every place the gun touched the leather was pitted and stained. The barrel pitted inside also. The gun was ruined.

[Flashpoint]

I'd try a little "Break Free CLP" on a rag to see if you remove the rust.

I took a toothpick and scraped the rust off. It's been a few days and I have not seen anymore rust returning should I try using some kind of rust remover or would this suffice?

[Ala Dan]

Att: Flashpoint-

If you haven't seen any more rust, then "Break Free CLP"
should keep it from returning. I recommend using this
product inside and outside on firearms. My SIG's show
no sign's of rust; and I've been using this product for
year's!:D


Att: usnavymasterchief-

Yes, I'm aware that stainless will rust if not properly
taken care of. That's why I recommend NEVER-EVER leave
firearms in leather gun rig's!;) Usually, it does take the
stainless firearms a bit longer for rust to form. At any
rate thanks for the info; and good shooting to all.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

[sgt127]

Anything labeled as a "Rust Remover" will likely take the remaining blue off with it. Any surface rust should come off with a bronze brush and a little gun oil. Go to the auto parts store, pick up a touch up bottle of gloss black paint, clean the part as well as you can with rubbing alcohol, acetone, fingernail polish remover (not the oily one) etc. Put one or two light coats of the touch up paint on it on and it should keep you going for about a year until you need to refinish it.

[Tecolote]

I've never had a rust problem with CLP. But there a bunch of products like it that are rust inhibitors. I would not want to use wax but if it works for you that's great.:)

[mrapathy2000]

FootNote- NEVER, EVER leave handguns in leather! Leather attracts moisture, and causes rust to form on most* handguns. * The exception being stainless steel handguns of course, and Glock's have the "Tennifer" process applied to eliminate rust.

even stainless steel will rust when neglected.