Effect of SIG P225 hammer spring in P6


April 24, 2008, 02:03 PM
I just put a P-225 hammer spring in my P-6 and thought I would report the results for anyone who might like to do it.

Factory P-6 Hammer spring:
.045" wire stock.
Single-Action pull = 4 3/4.
Double-Action pull = Always breaks by 12 1/2.

Replaced with #34225688 SIG P-225 spring from Brownell's.
Item number 732-000-256.
Cost is $4.00 without gunsmith discount, $3.20 with.

P-225 Hammer spring:
.043" wire-stock.
Single-Action pull = 4 1/2.
Double-Action pull = Always breaks by 11 1/4, and smoother.

Noticeable DA improvement, without risking light primer strikes from a reduced power spring.


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April 24, 2008, 07:25 PM
Bless you. You didn't replace the mainspring too, did you? I've read that helps too. Or maybe I'm confusing the two. But I have 2 P6s that need help.

April 25, 2008, 10:02 AM
The hammer spring is the mainspring.
Same thing.

I called it a hammer spring in my post to avoid confusion with the recoil spring, which some folks consider to be the "main" spring in a gun.


April 25, 2008, 10:39 AM
So what spring did you use in pounds?

April 25, 2008, 12:18 PM
As I said in the first post, it is a stock factory P-225 spring.
SIG doesn't rate their stock springs in pounds as far as I know. They just have part numbers.

Wolff does, but SIG doesn't.
Wolff says the P-225 uses a 24 pound spring, but doesn't say what the P-6 uses.

From my results, I would guess the P-6 is a 26 - 28? or thereabouts.
The Germans insisted they must go bang with hard NATO primers.

I didn't choose to go any lighter with reduced power springs because I want 101% bangs, every time I pull the trigger, no matter how hard the primers are.


April 25, 2008, 12:24 PM
How difficult is it to switch?

April 25, 2008, 12:40 PM
Well, it's not easy if you've never done it before!
Here is how I do it.

1. Remove grips and push spring plate in with a large screwdriver to unhook from gun.

2. Lay it down on a piece of notepaper and trace around it so you know for sure how it goes back together. :confused:

3. Get someone to help you now! (You will need three or four hands if you have never done this before!)

4. Support strut and drive out roll pin with a 1/16" pin punch.

5. Try to catch the plate & spring when they fly off! :cuss:

6. Find spring & plate again! :o

7. Clamp hammer strut standing up in a vice.

8. Refering to step 2 drawing, put on new spring, and use a pair of needle nose pliers to compress the spring & plate far enough to stick the pin punch through the hole in the strut.

9. Put the assembly back in the gun, cock the hammer, and make sure it works. :D

10. Remove the punch.

11. Start the roll pin and drive it back in the strut.

12. Put the grips back on.


April 28, 2008, 02:57 PM
Got my spring kit from Wolff, I'll try it today.

April 28, 2008, 03:24 PM
It really does help to have an extra pair of hands. It was a bear to get mine back together by myself. Actually, when my buddy and I did his, I couldn't figure out how I was able to to it by myself :p

April 28, 2008, 10:55 PM
That was easier than I thought, once I figured out what it all was. Only hard part is the shot in the dark when you stick the strut back up into the frame. If you pull the punch out in a plastic bag, you don't have to worry about things flying around. It's harder without a vise, but it does help to get you son to stab the punch in while you compress the spring.

I bought the spring pak from Wolff. I just got a second P6, so I put the 17# spring in it to test. What a difference. So much nicer now. If it works OK, I'll put the 18# in the one I carry. Thanks for the help.

January 20, 2009, 04:12 PM
Having just replaced the mainspring/hammer spring on three P6s, I can tell you that Step 8 is the 'and then a miracle occcurs' step. ;)

I bought my P225 springs at TopGunSupply, since I had to order magazines from them anyway.

January 20, 2009, 05:25 PM
I made a little tool with a thin piece of steel to compress the spring and hold it down while I inserted the pin back into the strut. I just cut a slot in a 1" by 1/2" small piece I had laying around. The strut went through the slot and I pushed down to compress the spring. When I got the pin in, I let the spring up and just pulled the "tool" out from between the spring and the pin.

January 20, 2009, 05:31 PM
But, the spring & strut should be back in place in the gun before there is any need to pull the punch out and replace the roll-pin.

The gun itself is the "tool" that holds the spring compressed while you take out the punch and replace the roll-pin.


January 20, 2009, 05:44 PM
The roll pins were a really tight fit (I replaced them at the same time) and I didn't want to be banging on the strut while it was inserted into the bowels of the FCG. So I did this off the gun, in a vise.

Doing it the way that I did was NOT a lot of fun. Presuming it to be perfectly OK for the gun, I like your method better. :)

January 20, 2009, 11:30 PM
followed tuners recommendations and with the help of a roommate i was able to change the hammer spring to a 17lb spring. the double action pull is now smooth and light. just have to wait and see if it lightstrikes or not. all in all it wasnt too much work, took maybe 5 to 10 minutes total.

If you pull the punch out in a plastic bag, you don't have to worry about things flying around i would also highly recommend you do this.


September 7, 2010, 08:52 AM
Wow......salvation found in old posts!! Thanks folks. I think this will be well worth the effort.

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