[Evyl Robot]

Does anyone know where I can get a hammer to fit my PC 586-7? I would like to have one to bob, and I don't really want to alter the original. The spur is fairly short on it as it is, but I don't use it, and I would like to not risk it snagging on clothing.

[GaryK]

I would try S&W or Brownells.

[20nickels]

You can get them direct from S&W for around $50, but I would just bob the one you already have you could always get another. Hammers come rough as a cob and need stoning.
I'm interested to hear (read) your impressions of the 586-7. Espessially in the porting/recoil department. Do you like the front sight and how well does it show up in dark? Could I just borrow it for awhile?

[Old Fuff]

Another possible source is Numrich Gunparts Corp. at: www.e-gunparts.com

Older Smith & Wesson hammers and triggers were made out of relatively soft steel, and then color case-hardened. The softer steel stood up well to shock, while the case hardened "skin" was wear resistant, and actually harder then most files.

The problem is that the hardened surface doesn't go very deep, and if one polishes through it to the softer metal it will quickly wear and the part will be useless. Because of the lockworks design any perceived roughness doesn't matter, as a little dry firing will burnish the parts where they come together under spring pressure. Polishing case-hardened parts where there is no contact is useless and superfluous at best, and can ruin the part at worst.

Should anyone not believe this, call Smith & Wesson's customer service department and ask... :uhoh:

[JNewell]

'nother note - my experience with several S&Ws is that hammers are generally not drop-in interchangeable parts. Sometimes it works - sometimes it doesn't.

[Evyl Robot]

20N,

You can get them direct from S&W for around $50, but I would just bob the one you already have you could always get another.

I know that I could modify the original, but the thought of irreversible alterations to a new gun make my skin crawl. Maybe it's the newb in me, or maybe it's my poor roots. Idunno. I'm sure this feeling will wear off eventually.\

I'm interested to hear (read) your impressions of the 586-7. Espessially in the porting/recoil department. Do you like the front sight and how well does it show up in dark? Could I just borrow it for awhile?

I'm not quite ready to write a true range report on this one yet. Last week, I shot like crap due to the "new gun syndrome." It was just so exciting that I was not at all impressed with my results. This morning, I was helping my brother and sister-in-law move, and was exhausted when I shot this afternoon. Unfortunately, this translated into less than ideal results at the range.

As far as the sights are concerned, I wish there was a little more contrast for lit shooting. The tritium front is awesome in the dark, though! I haven't done any dark shooting, but I sure have turned off the lights and dry-fired in the house. I'm thinking of putting a little nail polish on the front ramp, and possibly a white outline on the rear to augment well-lit shooting. Lastly, if you are in the Okc area or passing through and want to meet me at the range one Saturday, send me a PM and we'll work something out. I don't really want it to leave my custody, but I wouldn't be opposed to letting you have a little range time with her.

OF,

They have an already bobbed hammer that fits this one for $39.99! I don't know that I will go this route, but thanks for the tip!
Correction - I read the site wrong. They don't appear to have one for me that's already bobbed.

JN,

'nother note - my experience with several S&Ws is that hammers are generally not drop-in interchangeable parts. Sometimes it works - sometimes it doesn't.

I have heard this and it concerns me, actually. That kind of gives up the tuned action benefit of this gun. And then again, there's this to consider:

Because of the lockworks design any perceived roughness doesn't matter, as a little dry firing will burnish the parts where they come together under spring pressure.

That seems reasonable.

Thanks for the input, everybody! I'm probably not quite ready to do this anyway. It sounds like it may be a bit of a time investment in which my gun will be out of service one way or another. I'm currently waiting for my CCW Permit, and I will probably want to wait until cold weather comes around again so I can carry the N-frame in it's absence. I wonder if Smith offers this kind of modification as a service... ...I've seen where others in these forums have sent their revolvers off to shops for similar mods.

./Michael

[Sunray]

"...hammers are generally not drop-in interchangeable parts...." Nope. Hammers always need to be fitted.
You know there were only 1,000 586-7's made?

[20nickels]

EvRobot,
I was joking about borrowing it. :D I appreciate the offer to shoot though. My bro-in-law resides in Tulsa and I get their only every two yrs or so. :(

To me that 586 is the near perfect carry gun. Have you considered LPA Sights for the rear? They make a night sight that may line up perfectly.

Apex Tactical makes a bobbed competition hammer. Pricey, but that's an option. I would inquire about if it needs soft primers for proper ignition. http://www.apextactical.com/

[Old Fuff]

Nope. Hammers always need to be fitted.

Not really.... But then again... :confused:

Smith & Wesson hammers and triggers were case hardened. Fitting them in the conventional sense might require cutting through this thin skin to the softer metal underneath.

When a revolver was being assembled at the factory the assembler would try a hammer and trigger for fit. If there was a problem one or the other (or both parts would be removed and exchanged for another until a correct relationship between the two was achieved. This process was called “selective fitting.”

What did need to be fitted individually was the little lever on the front of the hammer, called the “sear,” which interfaces with the trigger to rotate the hammer during double-action firing.

This said, the precision with which hammers and triggers were made often (but not always) allowed for complete interchangeability between revolvers. But any fitting (filing, grinding or stoning) that may cut through the thin case hardening should be avoided at any point where two parts touch each other.

Colt hammers and triggers on the other had were made from tool steel that was heat treated for whatever hardness was required, and this hardness was constant throughout the part. So Colt assemblers did file or stone parts during the assembly process.

The different methods used by the two companies were both satisfactory, but there is less parts interchangeability between Colts then Smith & Wesson’s. This point should be remembered today because in many cases the only source of parts for older guns of both makes are those that are salvaged from other guns to which they were (more or less) individually fitted.

[JNewell]

Yep, to summarize my point: you may have good luck, you may not. I have not, on a few occasions, and it wasn't a case of not quite optimal, the gun just didn't work correctly. If you don't, though, as Old Fuff points out, the fact that the part is case hardened kinda negates the idea of "wearing it in."

[Evyl Robot]

You know there were only 1,000 586-7's made?

I had no idea! But...

To me that 586 is the near perfect carry gun.

Me too! That's why I bought it.

Have you considered LPA Sights for the rear?

I'll check that out.

[Evyl Robot]

Seriously, people! Why am I killing threads here?