[10-Ring]

Well, I'm on the verge of ordering a CT unit for my S&W model 442. It seems like a great aid in a gun so small and target acquisition -- does anyone have any experience w/ a similar set up?
TIA

[DAdams]

Same revolvers. Different finish is all.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=363980

All this applies to your 442.

[10-Ring]

Thanks. My question re: the CT is for the defender units -- is anyone familiar w/ them?

[jfh]

What is a "defender unit?"

Jim H.

[Arrogant Bastard]

I have a S&W 640 with CT grips. This past Thursday at the range, I tried to calibrate the laser at 7 yards, with some success -- but I'm not sure if the dispersion I still see is because of the CT still being a little misaligned or because my hands were a little unsteady.

I may see if I can get one of the instructors at the range to see if I've properly calibrated it at 7 yards. Then, I'll test it at 3 and 10 yards to see how off it is at those ranges.

[freebird]

Is that the 1 7/8 barrel 5 shot airweight 38+P model?

[10-Ring]

From a catalog, the defender series are the 105's -- sorry for any vagueness in my question

[Dienekes]

This is contrarian and will accordingly be ignored and spurned. However: I won a free unit and it went on my wife's M37 for a while. IMHO it was an impractical toy from the outset and she eventually agreed with me. We sold it without regret. The money is better spent on practice ammo or a timer if you don't already have one.

I have a 442 which I carry daily, and it has no bells, whistles, or gadgets on it whatsoever.:scrutiny:

Feel free to own one, though.

[10-Ring]

Dienekes - don't sweat it. That's why I posted the thread to get opinions re: the subject matter.
I have used one in training class once before and see an actual need -- which is why I'm ordering one ;)

[thesecond]

deleted double-post sorry, folks, can't ever do things 'right' the first time. :)

[thesecond]

Well-documented on this topic, if you like to use the "search" function. But I'll say the following, anyway, in the spirit of continuing the generosity of posters/moderators on this site, in general, and in the revolver/strategy/tactics sub-forums, in particular.

The "defender" series (lg-105, for Smith-Js) is hard polymer, lacks coverage over the backstrap, and is without a master on/off switch. The 405's are polymer and rubber, have a recoil-reducing air-pocket that covers the backstrap, and have a master on/off switch. (The latter distinction is less important, CR 2032 batteries are cheap and plentiful, in 'always on' mode, they last at least a few months!) The 105's are insignificantly lighter in weight, and free of snag-potential, but in an airweight, very snappy; The recoil is fully-absorbed by the meat of the hand between the thumb and index finger, particularly in +p's, and particularly if you ride the grip high. the j-frame recoil drives directly back through that exposed strap. Combined with the light weight of the gun, it might get painful for extended range practice, and you may not end up taking advantage of the full benefits of the j-frame snub platform. I don't mind the 105's in an all-steel (heavier) snub, though.

If you can afford the 405's, buy them. Well-worth the extra $150. And CT's a great company; They stand behind a product with a lot of forethought in its creation. The CT website folks are very helpful as well. Check out the Clyde Caceres video. You get one DVD free with purchase, but I believe they send them out for promotional purposes, if you ask nicely. :) I've been a satisfied customer, going on ten years. And you should check out the 642 thread (part deaux), lots of great information there.

I've been an avid reader of this site, particularly the revolver forum. Lots of generous folk here, so thanks. Just thought I'd pass on this info, so we don't have anyone spinning their wheels.;) Stay safe.

[greener]

Don't have a CT on my 442. I have a CT on my M&P9. I like it, but the red laser is impossible to see on bright days, so keeping it aligned is a bit difficult.

[madcratebuilder]

I have CT 405's on my 640, most comfortable grip I have had on the gun. The laser is for low light use, forget about bright daylight. Work great on indoor ranges.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d37/madcratebuilder/PICT0001Medium-1.jpg

[glockman19]

Crimson Trace and my 442?
YES.

[jfh]

thesecond: That is an excellent summary of the use of the CT grips--and a good post for someone new to posting here.

Thanks for doing that.

Jim H.

[jaydubya]

I bought my 637 Airweight five years ago with dealer-installed CT 305s. If the 405s had been available then, and if I knew what I know now, I would have bought the 405s instead. That little shock absorber at the top of the backstrap solves my problem: the web of my hand can't take more than thirty rounds of RANGE LOADS before blistering.

I also have CT grips on my S&W 686+ and my Browning Hi Power. I would not buy a handgun for which Crimson Trace did not provide a set of its grips. I am that sold on them.

They are not effective in the desert under the noonday sun for targets fifty or more yards away, but my handguns are strictly for HD/SD, so I'm good.

Cordially, Jack

[thesecond]

jfh: Thanks, Jim. I figure that, of the community forum/websites I've visited, whether gun-related or not, THR members/moderators take seriously the notion of responsible education and dialogue (and decreasing the cost of the learning curve for everyone). Over the last two years (was a lurking reader long before signing up), I've learned quite a bit, myself, and hope to pass on what I've 'acquired'. Pretty cool that some knowledge/experience can be free.

Off the top of the head, though, a few more advantages to the CT system, and 405's, specifically.

I'd get the 405's for the air-pocket, even if the laser didn't work. I had the 205's for a long, long, time and traded up, per the CT customer-service plan. J-frame airweights now can be "carried often, SHOT often". Likewise, for the 105's, if the J is all-steel.

Where the laser is on and functioning, a few more things to consider from points I've read/watched and practiced/implented.
(1) trigger control - helps to identify your "wobble zone" (which we all have, whether wheelie or semi-auto), and practice in minimizing such (which we cannot completely eliminate) can be done with snap-caps at home, although it's advisable to get to the range to confirm, adding the "ACTUAL firing/recoil" component to your experience. I recall a generous chap, "sm", mentioning also to place the coin on the top strap to help train in this aspect. (Keep the coin at rest on the top strap throught the DA pull, while at home, with snap-caps.)
(2) re-inforces rule #2 (safe direction?) - whether from concealment to draw, or once drawn, you can observe where you 'sweep'. I believe some should consider this point, whether or not they use lasers, and whether or not they handle their gun with others present.
(3) Helps introduce you to point-shooting, or other techniques, outside the realm of strict "sighted fire". In the desert, under high noon, the laser is difficult to find, of course. But I don't spend too much effort looking for the dot. I use the laser to confirm that I've placed the snub barrel in the right direction, from concealment to "follow-through". Hands AND eyes are the two components to 'hand-eye' coordination, and if I can trick my brain into thinking the barrel is 7 yards long, instead of 2 1/8 inches (calculations on laser/barrel POA differential notwithstanding) .... ;)

Stay safe.