Lint filled pics of super custom Colt in 38 S/9X23-9MM


May 26, 2008, 05:41 PM
Here is one that has been in the shop and in the works for a long time. Please please excuse the lint. The blueing on this is perfect as is the pistol. It is a series 80 Colt Government that started out as a 9X23 unsupported. It is now a 3 caliber (38 Super/9X23/9MM) two barrel full house custom. And yes I will get some better pics as time allows. Here are some details:
10-8 3 Dot Night Sights
EGW Ignition
Schuemann Barrels in 38 Super-9X23 and 9MM
Golf balled front strap and MSH (courtesy of Chuck @Rogers Precision)
Colt Beavertail
Scalloped and Ball cut slide
Midnight Blue finish
High Polish Flats on slide and frame
Slightly rounded butt
Hand hardfit on barrels and internals
40 LPI slide stop serrations

And so on. I love classic blue Colts with walnut grips.



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May 26, 2008, 05:57 PM
And yes I know that the lint detracts from the pics and look, but I would rather spend time shooting and building guns right now that super detail cleaning and on "marketing" pics". I think that it is clear from what is posted what quality this piece is. Agree or not.


May 26, 2008, 06:27 PM
I can't really see it well enough to say.
Maybe I need a better monitor?

May 26, 2008, 06:30 PM
Don't sweat the lint, nice pics.

May 26, 2008, 06:58 PM
I never know if I should login under my new handle of OnTarget or the old one of Deezulsmoke. Something about that new member still bugs me. I doubt that I will ever post enough these days to get rid of it.

May 26, 2008, 07:03 PM
love the work on the slide, that is one awsome colt, everything done right IMO

screw the lint. It should feel priveleged to be even attaching itself to such a fine handgun.

Jim Watson
May 26, 2008, 08:51 PM
Why did you do all that frou-frou work and leave the ugly Colt droopytail on it?

May 26, 2008, 10:52 PM
That is how the customer wants the gun. And I think that it looks good, different than any other S&A, Ed Brown, Wilson beavertail like you see on every "loaded" or custom gun. Same with using the blue steel trigger instead of the "every body has one" 3 hole match aluminum trigger. Different strokes and all that.


Bob Rodgers
May 27, 2008, 09:49 AM

Throw in more and softer light and post us some close-ups!

What kinda pull weight did you get from using that heavy steel trigger?
I find that even when using solid aluminum triggers that I have to internally lighten them to get a usable pull without bounce.:banghead:

May 27, 2008, 03:57 PM
Hey Bob,
Thanks. It is not a steel trigger. It is the unimpressive Colt black plastic.:what:
I figure this is all very well known by you and only bring it into the thread as general information. Your pistolsmithing skills are legendary to say the least! :D I don't generally lighten the triggers and have some other little tricks that I do. I will PM you and share some information. I am positive that you may already know what they are, but I can certainly let you know what I do.;)

We are going to replace that with another type of trigger but, to your question.
I have been able to get really decent pulls using both the very light triggers such as the Dlask and STI and with full metal triggers. There are some tricks that I won't publish (of course:evil:) but generally speaking as long as you get the hammer hooks square, cut no lower than 22 thou max, and get the primary angle at 90 degrees to the hooks, and make the secondary cut no more than 1/3 of the total sear face, you should be able to regulate the pull down to about 3.5 lbs and lower safely with no perceptibal bounce. You will certainly feel the "mass" of full metal triggers and hammers, like on the GI spec pieces, but no trigger/sear/hammer bounce per se. The lighter the triggger and hammer, the more "feel" I experience for the sear break. The heavier the hammer and sear, the more it masks the feel of the sear break. You are absolutely correct that the lighter the hammer and trigger, the more feel for break and crispness there is. I also use the STI titanium hammer strut on all of my builds to get the mass of the ignition parts as low as possible. Most of my builds are for carry and range use but have done many with lighter pulls. I won't do any range guns and ESPECIALLY any carry guns for less than 4 lbs and only then if I know the person that I am building the gun for generally speaking. I have been shooting the 1911 for about 20-30 years and have never been able to improve my groups by going with a super light trigger. But that is just my experience. I don't build race guns as a general rule and almost all of the pistols that I do are for general range use and more specifically for carry, so the 4 lb triggers work out perfect. This particular gun will go out with a 3.5 lb trigger that is very crisp. Even with the crappy plastic trigger. My experience with the Dlask trigger has not be wonderful. I have had very positive luck and feedback using the STI glass filled nylon triggers. They are very light and very durable. That is probably what we will go with on this build, or perhaps the old standby Grieder.


May 27, 2008, 05:31 PM
In looking at these pics again they just don't do the gun justice. I PROMISE to clean the gun better and take the time to learn this new camera. I ask myself if I would post these pics on my website and the answer was a resounding NO!!!! With the machining that Chuck did and the bluing quality, it just deserves a lot better pics.


May 27, 2008, 07:34 PM
"Don't sweat the lint, nice pics."
"screw the lint. It should feel priveleged to be even attaching itself to such a fine handgun."


Is my monitor in need of repair?
Or mebbe my existence??

May 27, 2008, 10:46 PM
Perhaps I am just too picky. But there is a ton of lint on the gun, especially around the rear sight. I was talking with someone else today about this and between the new circumstances and new house, the shop in pieces and getting used to being single again, I guess I should just be happy that there are any pics of it at all ;)
But it really does need a better cleaning and some new pics. And I don't think it is your monitor Chuck, you are just able to see past the superficial to the true beauty of your machining! And I have to tell all that this one was a real pleasure to build, and yes doing a 3 caliber two barrel gun takes a LOT of detail work and careful barrel work but it has been fun and will be worth it when the customer gets to shoot this one. At least I get to range test and tune it before it gets home. The other last finishing touch will be getting Gary at Zipgraver to put the caliber markings on the barrel hoods along with some small engraving enhancements. Should be pretty cool when all is said and done.


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