[RobertFBurnett]

Hey Y'all this is a multi-part question, feel free to jump in on any part you know about. The first two are a Kalifornia dealie in case you free-staters don't know, its the seccond two I could use help with here.

1) I have been keeping my eyes open for a small pocket .38, preferably a pre-lock j-frame S&W. To get one I understand it must already reside in CA, so I have been watching the Turners consignment page, although the well is pretty dry right now, but last christmas they had alot more, so I can wait if need be. But I have begun looking at other options.... \/

2) Guns over 50 years old are exempt from the CA-DOJ list as they are "collectable". So I have also been watching gunbroker, but some of the guns are "around" 50 years old (i'll use this one as an example, http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=100791275), how do I take advantage of a gun that might be 50 years old when there is the time constraint of an auction site? The difference between late fifties and early sixties is the difference in me owning that gun. While another that states "produced in 1958," does that count? Or does the DOJ need it proven produced before i.e. May 1958?

3) I am up to date on current production Smiths (340, 642, etc) but what are some of the older snubbie .38 models to look out for?

4)Also I have never owned a Colt (shame on me ), but I want to add them in as an option, what Colt .38 models are a good buy? I see Cobras and Positives and have no idea what the difference is. Anything in particular to look out for?

Thank you all for your help,

RFB

[rgs1975]

I solved the problem by buying a factory new S&W Model 40-1. No lock, J frame, .38 Speical, it's on the CA DOJ list and brand spankin' new.

[RobertFBurnett]

I forgot about the 40-1, but will definately add it to my list of maybes.

How do you like shooting the "lemon-squeezer"?

RFB

[SaxonPig]

The M40 is my absolute favorite hideout gun. I have two made in 1962 and 1964 respectively. The '64 model I got while still in CA (I fled the gun law state in 1992) and it was cheap because it was on the coast and corroded all over in the salty air. Functions fine, just looks like Hell. I added the stag stocks that I got off ebay for $6.


http://www.fototime.com/34F17A751067B1C/standard.jpg


A couple years ago I bought another one thinking that tired old gun should retire. But the new one (actually 2 years older than the other but new to me) was in such nice shape I couldn't bring myself to carry it.


http://www.fototime.com/C2CAD5CD0AC8415/standard.jpg


BTW- I know a lot of guys throw a hissyfit over the lock, but I have never had any trouble with mine. I just ignore the lock.

[Shade00]

If you are to look for a Colt the preferred .38 snubbies are the Detective Specials. The Police Positive also came in a snubbie, but you have to make sure it's the .38 Special. Otherwise you'll get a .38 S&W.

Of course, there are other snubbies; the Lawman MK III comes to mind, but it's a .357. My favorite Colt snubbie is the Diamondback .38, but you'll pay out the nose for those. Pythons were also available in snubbies, but again, ridiculously high prices.

[ziggy222]

the finest 38 snub i ever shot was the colt detective special.i repeatedly outshot every police cadet that came to the range rapid firing the snub nosed detective special with hand loaded low power rounds at 15 yards.i messed up bad selling it just to get a higher powered gun.only problem was it had a very hard trigger pull and you cannot adjust it without a gunsmith.

[Old Fuff]

2) Guns over 50 years old are exempt from the CA-DOJ list as they are "collectable". So I have also been watching gunbroker, but some of the guns are "around" 50 years old (i'll use this one as an example, http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=100791275), how do I take advantage of a gun that might be 50 years old when there is the time constraint of an auction site? The difference between late fifties and early sixties is the difference in me owning that gun. While another that states "produced in 1958," does that count? Or does the DOJ need it proven produced before i.e. May 1958?

If you spot a gun on an auction (or wherever) contact the seller and ask them for a partial serial number (use xx for the last two numbers). Then come to THR and start a thread with a description of the gun and the serial number. Someone will likely come up with the date of manufacture in short order. Check with DOJ, but I think the only requirement is the year, not the month.

Another tip: Smith & Wesson started using model numbers (and stamping the number on the frame) in 1957. So any revolver without a model number would meet the 50 year requirement.

[oneounceload]

just inherited my dad's Colt DS, serial number says made in 1928....shoots just fine and will become a nice CCW...... they're out there.....depending on where you are in CA, NV allows private citizen sales...not saying to break the law.......

[cherryriver]

Just to add a little on the small frame Colts mentioned: for practical (not collectors') purposes, the Detective Special is a short-barrel Police Positive Special. In other words, the DSs were two- and three-inchers and the PPSs were fours and fives. Yes, butts vary, but when it comes to later guns, a PPS is mechanically differentiated by the barrel length from the Detective Special.
By the way, I agree that these are superb snubs. You'll hit better faster with these than any other snub.
I would say that they are on the large side for pocket use, but not prohibitively so.
Cobras and Agents are the alloy-frame versions of the same thing.
SF-VIs, DS-IIs, and Magnum Carrys are the later, stainless version of these, with somewhat different lockwork. They will, however, be able to share speedloaders and stocks.
Colt also had larger snubs, such as two-inch Official Police models and the later Lawman MkIII, not to mention the 2 1/2" Diamondbacks (adjustable-sighted small frames) and Pythons (bigger pockets required!).
All were six-shooters.

[ugaarguy]

Mr. Burnett may I advise that you pick up a copy of "The Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson, 3rd Edition" by Supica and Nahas. It's a rather exhaustive reference on all things Smith & Wesson. Of note in your situation are the serial number reference tables, and detailed information on almost all S&W models, to include the J Frames (and their predecessors the I and Improved I Frames).

Outside of current production the models 37, 38, and 42 are good ones to look for in an airweight. The models 36, 40, and 640 are very nice steel J Frames. With a 36 or 37 you could always order a spare hammer from Numrich or another supply house and have a gunsmith bob the spur off and remove the full cock notch on it. That way you can covert the revolver to a no snag DAO and leave the original hammer unaltered should you find a more desirable model later.