It seems that these crossbows just won't die, although they are not produced any longer. Lately I have been getting requests via email, for information on these bows. I thought I would put down everything I know, in one place. I don't know everything about these, but you know what they say: "In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king" ;)
Background: Crisbow Crossbows were made in South Africa in the eighties and nineties. There was a recurve model known as the Cheetah and then there was a compound version known as the Quadro 2000. Both Cheetahs and Quadros were sold in two styles: a black skeleton design made from glass-reinforced plastic (GRP), and a traditional wooden stock made from imbuia. In all cases the prods (the 'bow') were made from spring steel and you could swap out a recurve prod for a compound prod, just by buying the new prod and a cable guide.
The crossbow I got was a Cheetah MKIV, in GRP. I got this in 1987 and upgraded the recurve to compound shortly after that. Like a fool, I traded in the recurve to get a discount on the compound prod. That is a decision I regret, especially now that parts for these crossbows are becoming difficult to find. It would be nice to have a different bow on the same frame, for casual shooting at close targets at the archery club.
Anyway, I don't have the recurve prod, but when I put the compound prod on the Cheetah frame, the crossbow essentially became a Quadro 2000. I also got the 4x32 scope that sells with Quadro 2000s and put that on the bow instead of the 4x20. Here is my crossbow, pictured a few years ago with the 4x32 Crisscope:
I don't have any photographs of the imbuia version, but I have found one brochure in my belongings and a source in SA has scanned some others for me. These are pictures of the Cheetah imbuia version...first two images show the recurve version, this brochure is in French:
Sadly, these crossbows are no longer produced and the company that used to make them abandoned the crossbow and moved onto other things. The only company I have found that has stocked these crossbows recently or has stocked spares for them, is in Belgium. The company is called SSA archery and I can confirm they are still in business because last week I phoned them and asked if they have any spare Crisbow parts. They have asked me to email them my request, and I have done so, awaiting a reply. Here are the company details:
The additional email I was given was james (at) SSA (dash) archery.be
I haven't heard back from them, but a few years ago I bought a spare pistol grip for my Quadro and one or two other items from them. A guy at my local archery and rifle club bought an imbuia Quadro from them, and I have used it. That was about three years ago. I don't know if they still have spares for the GRP or imbuia versions or not. I'll let you know when I find out.
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May 28, 2008, 05:21 PM
Crisbow used to sell cable replacement kits for the Quadro prods. Here is the instruction sheet from one of those kits:
Note that all the compound prods I have seen for the Crisbow range, have had ordinary bolts that you loosen with a wrench, to take tension off the prod. The images show bolts that are loosened with an allen key, but I have never seen that version.
Here is a sequence of images showing what parts you got in the kit:
In my opinion, if you have one of these Quadros and you have lost or damaged cams and cables, you are gong to find it impossible to manufacture a replacement. You must either get a spare or resign yourself to trying to find a recurve prod for your weapon.
You could make a string, a cable guide, a cable-holder and even the stirrup, but if you have no cables and cams you are done IMHO.
I think the same applies to the trigger housing. Mine is original and these things must have been made very well because I've never had a problem with that trigger despite quite a bit of use. It has a good trigger for a crossbow.
May 28, 2008, 05:40 PM
In my opinion, the GRP version of the crossbow is the one to get, for the following reasons:
1) Has a central cable-guide, not off-centred like the imbuia version.
2) Ambidextrous (imbuia stock has thumbhole).
3) Can be used without a scope because the front end has a rudimentary front sight. The imbuia version does not.
4) Adjustable pistol grips and butt stock.
5) Can be used without the butt stock, and can also be stored in a smaller bag if you take the crossbow apart.
6) Lighter (but not by much).
At one time I saw metal stirrups being sold for these at a chain of knife shops in South Africa, but I never bought one. I don't know if the metal stirrup was a Crisbow upgrade or another stirrup that just happened to fit the Quadro/Cheetah frame.
The only advantage I can think of when considering the imbuia vs GRP, is that the imbuia version had a brass track and some people said it had a more traditional look to it. It doesn't scream Evil Black Crossbow ;)
I'm still trying to get more information from South Africa. It is surprisingly difficult to get. I can't track down the Johannesburg distributor, which was a company called Taylor and Henderson.
The only information I have found out abut the Crisbow company is that they have moved on to making trailers for vehicles. The Crisbow side of things was abandoned in sometime around 1999 or 2000.
My impression of the bow (considering the compound GRP Quadro):
It is very accurate up to about 40 yards.
Has no loading assist and therefore is not for everybody, unless you manage to fix a winch onto it. I have tried all sorts of manual load assists and none of them helped take any strain off my back while loading. I therefore load without them, and make sure my chest doesn't come off the butt-stock (try to use arms only). I have good traps from this crossbow, it is a 140 lbs dead lift.
A piece of trivia: only one woman has ever managed to load that crossbow on her own, and a fair amount of dudes have failed to do it. This must have turned a lot of people off the bow, when it was still being sold.
May 29, 2008, 10:15 PM
Ive got the same crossbow as you and ive noticed that the bars that hold the string back when you cock the string to full draw is getting stuck and wont allow me to pull the string back past the bars to full cock.
I have to use a screwdriver and push and jiggle the bars so they loosen off and click back. once ive loosened it up and it clicks back to allow for backward rotation.. I can then draw the string back past the bars and let it catch onto the rear of the bars.
Have you seen this happen before and got any advice?
June 12, 2008, 06:54 PM
i beleve i have one of these with the wood stock, it also has a aluminum track with a single metal bow(aluminum?) and no string, what is the string length for these bows?
June 13, 2008, 02:34 AM
I haven't had that happen to me.
Unfortunately I don't think you can get into the trigger mechanism to check it out.
Does your safety catch work properly? I would check that out if I were you.
Otherwise I don't know what you can do, sorry.
June 13, 2008, 02:39 AM
Unfortunately I don't have the recurve prod anymore. I still regret handing that in as a discount for my compound prod.
I don't know what length it is, sorry.
All of those wood models that I have seen have been fitted with a brass track. All the Crisbows I have seen have had steel prods.
June 13, 2008, 02:49 AM
Thank you sharing all this information with pictures!
A most informative and educational thread indeed!
June 13, 2008, 02:56 AM
It is my pleasure, sm.
Unfortunately I am not an expert with this crossbow or any other, but there is very little information out there about these bows.
You know what they say: "In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king"
June 15, 2008, 05:57 PM
I X-rayed my crossbow today, hoping to find out more about the trigger assembly. Note that it has a different scope and rings on, from the one that it was sold with, seen in the earlier post.
Here is a closeup of the area, on the X-ray cassette:
This is the default position, after firing. The safety is forward and the rear central post from the trigger mechanism is forward. I'm sure there are proper terms for these items, but I don't know them, sorry :o Here is the X-ray:
The next two X-rays show the trigger components in two stages.
First, the string has been pulled back so that it has engaged the rear central post from the trigger mechanism, pushing it backwards and bringing the forward string retainers (two posts on the sides) rearward into view. Note the safety is not engaged yet:
love cross bows,had one as a kid,long hours of fun,just dont make the same mistakes i did,lol,get something good to shot at,trees dont work well if you ever plan on reusing the bolts
June 16, 2008, 01:20 AM
Nice Odd Job ! I have an old (mid 80s) Horton Commando 175 pound recurve made on the Scottish Isles. I load it on my chest. It has shot hard and straight for 25 years being a siple piece of green molded plastic!
November 10, 2008, 08:45 AM
I have a crisbow mark Iv it is still origanal will send pics later but need some info as I just got it.What are the arrow lengths for the cheetah?and what is the swithch for just above the rear pistol grip?It looks like a saftey but it has a saftey switch above the trigger.Can this crossbow be used for hunting deer.150 lb pull.
November 11, 2008, 03:50 PM
Nice to see these Cheetahs surfacing.
1) Minimum arrow length for your Cheetah is 16". Be advised that it is better to have the bolts custom made for this crossbow, so that you can have the fletchings set lower on the shaft so that they don't touch the trigger housing. The alternative is to buy ordinary crossbow bolts but then refletch them yourself (you'll need a jig, spare fletchings and a good adhesive). In both cases you should have the rear ends of the fletchings set 45mm from the back of the bolt.
2) The thing that looks like a safety above the rear grip isn't a safety at all. it is the release bolt for the buttstock. If you turn it anti-clockwise you can unscrew it. The nutcap on the other side can then be pushed out and then you can remove the buttstock. The buttstock has a two position adjustment, this is how you adjust it. Check pics in beginning of thread for more info.
November 11, 2008, 03:54 PM
As for the question about hunting deer, I reckon the max humane range on the crossbow is 40 yards, with a proper broadhead. But I am basing that on speculation on whether it would work with two-legged goblins, not deer. I can only say I suspect it will be good enough for smallish deer at close range, but if I was in your position I would get a compound crossbow or an appropriate rifle.
November 12, 2008, 10:08 AM
Thanks odd job for the info.I have been doing a ton of reserch about the crossbows and it seems to be a strong enough pull as a single recurve to do the job of getting deer for the hunt.I have bought new arrows(bolts) and a new set of 125 grain 3 blade broadheads yesterday (not cheap I might add) for this crossbow.I bought 2018 style not the 2117 style.I understand exactly what you mean about the flretching they should be lower on the shaft.1 last question is the arrows I bought have the moon style knock as I thought it would be like the Horton & barnett.Is this correct or do they use the flat knock like the excaliber?Can I also use a slightly longer arrow ?Or only 16" bolts.I love all the reserch you have done on these crossbows I really like the feel and grip styles with the adjustable but stocks etc.Even the new bows dont feel like these.Only the fact that the compound style is a nce option maybe down the road ill go to the quatro.Will send some pics after for any info on the whole bow as mine is still origanal Feel free to ask.Thanks again keep these crossbows alive they must be good or they would all be gone after this many years.lol.
November 12, 2008, 05:41 PM
I think you can go to 18" on the bolts for that recurve, not sure if you get benefits from going longer. I don't know enough about shaft weights and optimal lengths. All I know is the bows were sold with Eagle 2117 and that these were 16" in length.
The back end: must be flat. Don't use half moon backs on there, you'll have problems if you do.
One more piece of advice: over time the rear pistol grip will drift rearwards. DO NOT be tempted to tighten that bolt with a pair of pliers gripping a coin. I did that and ruined the nut. I had to find a spare grip in Belgium, it was not easy!
You should find the optimum position for that rear grip and apply a bit of wood glue to that (or something else not as permanent as super glue) to stop it drifting back. If it drifts back it will be uncomfortable because the plastic rail will interfere with your index finger. Check the second last X-ray to visualise what I mean.
Front grip isn't so serious because the rail is longer and you have the fore-end to grip in an emergency.
Also: get the scope rings on there nice and tight. If you don't have the original Crisscope on there, make sure you get an air-rifle rated scope because that bow shakes up those scopes something terrible. Mine has wrecked 3 scopes so far!
November 13, 2008, 11:04 AM
I will get some flat knock bolts then I thought it would help to use the moon style knock as the chances of having a dry fire would decrease as the sting has a better contact.Can and or have you left your crossbow cocked during a hunt for any amount of time? I always leave my crossbow uncocked but would like to know if you could leave them cocked for a short period of time say a few hours a day when you are in the bush hunting.As you know its kinda hard to cock them and bye the time you do whatever you are hunting would hear you and be gone lol.Ps without a bolt in it of course.I dont mind loading a bolt I would have time for that just another dumb question I guess but thought it was important.
November 13, 2008, 11:05 AM
Please remember Im still new to this lol.
November 13, 2008, 02:55 PM
Chevman, see if you can just change the nocks instead of buying another set of bolts from scratch.
A tip about unintentional dry-firing: this happened only once or twice to me and it was because the bolt wasn't all the way back to the string. The string sits very snugly between the track and the scope mount, it is unlikely to ride above the bolt.
If you want the string to last longer, apply one layer of extra serving to the existing center serving. Don't put too much or you won't be able to draw it up into the trigger mechanism (I did this once, after spending an hour redoing the serving, I was pretty sour about it).
Hunting: I don't know diddly, my friend. I'm sorry about that.
I've never kept the bow loaded for longer than a few minutes to take photographs. Mine is a four piece spring steel compound prod also, so I don't know if I could comment anyway.
I can only guess that a few hours loaded won't hurt it. If you are going to keep it loaded, you might as well have a bolt inserted and then treat it like a firearm: finger off the trigger and have it pointed in a safe direction always.
November 24, 2008, 08:13 PM
i was just wondering if i could still get parts for a crisbow MK lll, and where from if i still can i have a friend who is gunna sell it to me if i can get parts i need new limbs and string he dropped it from his tree stand and it bent one side
November 25, 2008, 03:26 AM
Bob I would be wary of buying that, because there could be more damage to the crossbow besides the prod. I don't know how it fell and I don't know what forces were on it, but there is a good chance that the prod screw is bent or that that there is damage to the frame that you don't know about.
You might be able to get a prod from SSA (see above) but so far they haven't replied to my emails asking them what stock they have.
Is the bow you are looking at single or compound? Have you seen it, do you have pics?
November 25, 2008, 08:30 PM
thanx its a single bow it looks like the pics of the RF, 75 and 85 but i dont know which one it is the guy who had it before me said it was a 150 lbs pull if that means anything im not sure im just getting into crossbows and stuff im just a rookie at this the side of the bow just says Crisbow MK lll with the serial #0301
November 26, 2008, 03:18 AM
Can you get pictures of the front end (with the prod off)?
November 26, 2008, 09:42 PM
um idont own it yet so i dont really wanna tear it all apart in case i break it ill get sum pics of the prod and how bent it looks and stuff will that work
November 27, 2008, 04:35 PM
Yes, let's see it: try to get detailed pics.
January 13, 2009, 02:40 PM
I see a lot of people posting who need parts, I have a functional crisbow cheeta recurve, I am posting for a friend , I have shot in in my basement range. two things, the safety does not appear to work, and it is missing the the flat metal curved bolt retainer device that holds the bolt in the track, so if you were to aim down from a tree stand the bolt would fall out. otherwise it is complete, and in great condition...make an offer
January 14, 2009, 10:01 PM
Specifically I am looking for close-up pictures in a number of views of the bracket (angled plate with hole in it) that is used between the stirrup and the prod in order to clamp the prod to the stock of the crossbow. My crossbow (recurve model) is missing this part and I think I can get one fabricated but don't remember exactly what it looked like. One of the posts shows this bracket on an instruction sheet but I would prefer more detailed pics.
I am also missing the flat washer that is installed between the stirrup and the aforementioned bracket. I think that any washer will do but my father (the original owner) seems to think that the washer had special features to it. If this is the case then can someone please post pictures of the washer as well?
Great thread and can't believe the detailed pictures that some of the members have posted. I've been looking for this type of information for years. Thanks!
January 17, 2009, 07:01 PM
w weezer w, i can make detailed drawings with measurements, but i live in namibia so its going to be in imperial units:confused:
January 17, 2009, 07:10 PM
odd job, i have an old aluminum recurve crisbow and i know how the trigger looks and works. I also have a pdf document of the triggers patent(i will post this latter, i need to find it first:D).
January 18, 2009, 07:13 AM
Gents, all help is appreciated!
Weezer, there was nothing special about the washer itself. What I can't remember is whether there was a thin rubber washer also, to prevent scratching of the prod.
In reality you will need an extra fibre washer or two, to get the right spacing between the stirrup and the prod. This is so that you don't have an angled stirrup after tightening.
I'll post pics of my washers when I get my camera back from work. I use one metal and two fibre washers.
As for the bracket, I don't know which part you mean...is it the heavy metal part that the limbs attach to, or is it something else?
January 18, 2009, 07:24 AM
I just thought of something: there is a rubber pad between the prod and the frame, and this pad compresses over time. Perhaps that's why I need to add washers up front to have the correct stirrup angle upon tightening.
January 19, 2009, 08:32 PM
Thanks for the replies Dr. Manic and Odd Job.
Dr. Manic: Imperial Units are fine as I should be easily able to convert them. I am in Canada and although we officially work in SI (metric units) many measurements are still in Imperial (construction is all in inches and feet and people still report their weight and height in pounds and feet/inches as well...old habits die hard I guess). Thanks.
Odd Job: The bracket I speak of is shown in the "Instruction pamphlet" you posted. I have marked it here:
This bracket/plate mounts between the stirrup and the prod in my recurve model (Cheetah MK4).
It's odd that this very same bracket is not shown in the Cheetah MK4"parts list" diagram that you also included in your original post. Perhaps there were two versions/vintages of this crossbow? One with the bracket / plate integrated into the prod (as it appears to the the case in the pictures of the compound prods) and the other with the bracket separate from the prod?
Anyway, thanks for the help!
January 19, 2009, 08:42 PM
Perhaps I was not completely clear in my last post. In my Cheetah Mk4, the bracket/plate indicated in my picture was a loose part. It was not attached/integrated into the prod in any fashion. Assembly steps were as follows:
1) slip prod onto the crossbow stock
2) slip said bracket/plate over the prod and over the stud that protrudes from the front of the stock
3) slip washer over the stud and onto said bracket/plate
4) screw the stirrup onto the stud which will clamp the bracket / plate onto the prod holding it securely in place.
Sorry for the confusion.
January 20, 2009, 03:15 AM
Ah, weezer I understand now what you mean.
I can't recall ever having a bracket like that when I first got my Cheetah. Certainly I don't have anything like it now. I know that the stocks are identical (the black GRP versions) so it can't be because of a stock difference.
Perhaps FatMax or Dr Manic can post some closeup pics of the recurve prod?
January 21, 2009, 11:19 AM
sorry, it will be a while before i can take detailed photos of my crossbow. im about 1500k\m (its about 930miles) from home at university and will be home in about 3 months.
I am a owner of the Recurve Model that you have posted in the brochure above. I have attached a pic of it. Today - i snapped a valuable part on the crossbow. the small clamp that holds the bow onto the stock(See Pic). Literally snapped in half. I was wondering if anyone on this forum knew who might have or be able to make a replacement part for me. I do have 2 crossbows (A Barnett Panzer V and the crisbow), but the Crisbow holds a soft place in my heart as wood stocked bows are difficult to come by, plus its been through alot with me... :P
Well, Here is my pic :D Hope it brings more realism than the brochure :P
February 11, 2009, 03:23 PM
Ah - And alas - here is the damnable part that I now need. I still cant believe that the Crossbow generated enough force to break this part clean in half. oh, the prod smashed the window to the right of me... Happend as I shot... Fun Times... Thank goodness it didnt hit me... :D I have checked the rest of the crossbow in detail and everything else is still 100% (Oh, and the bolt only veered off target slightly and lost a bit of power ) - Just proves - even in the midst of breaking - that the crisbow only falters slightly :P
February 11, 2009, 03:32 PM
Aha!! This clears up a few things, thanks for the pics Stuart!
I think you and Weezer are talking about the same part, but this is the first time I have seen a picture of it. It wasn't part of the package for the GRP recurve model. Must have been for the wood stock only.
I have a feeling that if Weezer can borrow your broken plate, he can make a few of those, one for you and one for him.
And you're right about the Crisbow. It is a nice crossbow and should be restored to working order.
February 11, 2009, 03:43 PM
I agree. i Love it! Its like hunting with a piece of heritage. And to add my 2cents in - The 150lbs takes down a wild pig from 25m effectively. (if you have calibrated your sight properly and have decent broadheads) :D
Well Weezer can contact me on firstname.lastname@example.org. i am in JHB. I was gonna source a fabrication company to make the part for me :P
Im lus to go hunting again. One thing i like about the wood stock - is that it has authentic battle damage. it shows a history. My Barnett is virtually all plastic and not as fun :P
February 11, 2009, 04:07 PM
Oh, a Joburg boy also? Another PM inbound, that's where I was born and grew up. :)
February 11, 2009, 04:58 PM
Lol. As they say 'one of the top 3 most violent cities in the world' :P Its all good :D
July 6, 2009, 12:30 PM
Hi Odd Job I hope you don't mind me asking you a question, I came across this site by accident and noticed all this useful information about your crossbow. I acquired the same crossbow recently and noticed with a shock afterwards that the crossbow is not complete. Above the rail is their a bar that looks like lifter or tension er that keeps the cross strings above the rail, my crossbow is without that part. Is their any information or recommendation, that you can give me, I'm also considering if it might be a hassle that I would rather make one myself. My problem with that is, that I'm in need of dimensions, material I will experiment with, because by the looks of it, it looks like it needs lite flexibility. Camo Joe
July 7, 2009, 02:25 PM
Camo Joe, I will see if I can measure that.
It is a solid metal rod that has some flex (but not much) and looks like you could make it quite easily.
July 19, 2009, 05:25 PM
Sorry for the delay, Camo Joe. I measured the length of the rod and it is 150mm. The diameter is 7.7mm
There is some flex of the rod under load, I haven't been able to measure it yet.
I can't say what the metal is made from, other than it is ferrous (is strongly attracted by a magnet)
July 30, 2009, 09:39 AM
Dear Odd Job Thank you so much for your assistance it was truely appreciated, I've managed to sort it, by using a screwdriver shaft. At first I saw that their were thread in the seat of the housing but noticed that it was stripped, I machined the screwdriver shaft so that it was a fit to a mic. I then drilled a 3 mm vertical hole through the housing, about midway in the casing and pinned it, after 200 shots, going like a bowing. I was worried for not using a slider that the cam cables would shave, keeping the shaft mirror finish seems to solve the problem, for their's still are no signs of friction. As a bonus I came across the sister bow which I camoed for my youngster. PS: Modifying a camcorder triepod for the 6 year old, he is battling with the weight. Planning to hunt from stationary observing points, it might be my solution. Sincerely Camo Joe and Jr
December 16, 2009, 12:43 PM
hey there i have both the cheetah and the quadro 200 with the allen bolt on the prod.i just got the cheetah..and back to one of the othe post...there is a camoflage version of the cheetah..it is extremely rare but they made them first then went to black...i have all the original info for both and was wondering where i can find out how long the srting is on the cheetah..it did not come with one...if you can help or anybody else i hope ull let me know thatns
December 16, 2009, 12:52 PM
im not interested in parting out my bow parts but im willing to help out with any info..
December 21, 2009, 08:17 PM
Jeep, hopefully someone with a recurve model can answer your question. I can't, because I have a compound prod which uses a much shorter string with four loops.
December 21, 2009, 09:03 PM
Hello friends and neighbors // I saw a NIB Cheetah today
It was the compound model.
Is this a worth while purchase at $189.00 ?
All the firearms there were priced high.
December 22, 2009, 06:27 AM
I think it is a worthwhile purchase even if it is second hand, as long as it is in good condition.
If it is a compound model and it is NIB, it should be labelled Quadro2000, not Cheetah. Can you get any pics of it?
Did he have any recurve models for sale?
December 22, 2009, 07:26 AM
Hello friends and neighbors // Thanks for the info
I just glanced at it but did notice South Africa and I believe Cheetah on the box. The plastic on box was torn but otherwise it appeared new.
I will try to go back today.
It was broken down in box and appeared to have brass pulleys with serrated edges at each end of the bow. The cable seemed to be covered in black rubber.
How varied were the prices between different models when they were new?
December 22, 2009, 08:06 AM
Would definitely like to see pics, it sounds unusual!
Prices are difficult to compare because the Quadro2000 was sold with a 4x32 scope with range-assisting reticle whereas the Cheetah came with a smaller scope with a simple crosshair. I only saw the box contents of a Quadro2000 briefly (a friend had one, which is what prompted me to upgrade my Cheetah prod to compound). If I remember correctly the Quadro2000 came with slightly longer arrows also.
Back in the day I converted my recurve Cheetah to compound by handing in the recurve prod and paying a few hundred extra Rands for the compound version. It needs a cable guide rod and cable guide also, which was part of the uograde 'pack.' That was through a company called Taylor and Henderson in Johannesburg in the late 80s. I haven't been able to trace them or their stock.
I know that SSA were selling compound prods a few years ago (no guide rod and no guide) for around the same price you have quoted for a complete crossbow (if you convert from Euro to $).
I cannot recall what the difference in pricing was between the GRP and wood stock models of the same type.
December 22, 2009, 09:57 AM
Hello friends and neighbors // I called about it and he decided not to sell lol. Must want to check his price. Said he did not know model or if it was recurve or not.
Sorry to apparently waste your time. If I do see one, even for parts, I'll post here.
January 5, 2010, 09:04 PM
hello, i was searching for information on my cheetah on here and decided to join. my bow is a recurve and it is also camo, aswell as having a graduated scope, someone must have upgraded before i aquired it. anyway reading through the forum i saw some questions i can answer. On leaving your bow cocked while hunting: i have used mine for 5 seasons and never had a problem, on hunts ranging from 2 to 8 hours. also in regards to the deer hunting, this bow is fully capable of talking down an adult whitetail, the last buck i took with it was hit and the bolt pierced through him for a take down shot. I love this bow
January 5, 2010, 09:05 PM
Oh, the only other thing about it is i am missing the front pistol grip, i did not know it was supposed to have one of those. but i am accurate to 45 yards without it. so i suppose its just there for looks
February 4, 2010, 09:21 PM
I have recently purchased a Crisbow model 85. It has the aluminum limbs w/ scope mount. The person I had bought it from said he purchased it back in the 60's. I have measured the string to be approx 30 1/8" long. (Someone was asking about it earlier.) Does anyone know if a 3 vien bolt, or a 2 vien bolt is prefered. I can see where the 3 vien has to be trimmed down on the viens. Would a 2 vien (with full viens) shoot any better?
February 5, 2010, 06:14 AM
Does anyone know if a 3 vien bolt, or a 2 vien bolt is prefered. I can see where the 3 vien has to be trimmed down on the viens. Would a 2 vien (with full viens) shoot any better?
You need to stay with 3 fletchings.
On my crossbow, if you get standard flat nock crossbow arrows the two upper fletchings have to be pressed down slighlty so that they can fit under the scope mount when loading. My Cheetah was supplied with two Easton 2117 arrows and the same applied to those arrows.
That part of the bow could have been designed better.
My recommendation is that you manually refletch your arrows so that the fletchings are a little lower on the shaft, or when you order your arrows have the company do it.
February 7, 2010, 11:51 AM
Thanks Odd Job,
I will be taking my first shots today. Turkey season is 2 months away. Trying to be ready!
April 16, 2010, 01:33 AM
i have a crisbow mark 4 with a crisscope green and brown grp same as the black one pictured above the only dif is that mine doesnt have the cams on the limbs i can pull it ok im looking to sell it dont bow hunt anymore if interested email me at (email@example.com) maybe somone needs parts its in mint condition
1 2 learn
May 7, 2010, 05:03 PM
Hi guys, I am new to the crossbow family but have always been very interressted. A freind gave me a Crisbow MK IV Quadro 2000 in camo with a 4 x 32 scope. It seems to be in excellent condition as far as my novice eye can see. I would realy like to learn as much as possible about this crossbow and also how to use and maintain it in the best way.
May 7, 2010, 07:11 PM
Welcome to the club, 1 2 learn. If you haven't used any kind of crossbow before, then head over to Crossbow Nation and read some of the threads there:
If you have used a crossbow before, but just need some tips on the Quadro, then ask away. The main thing to check before you start is that the cams aren't loose, that the stirrup is secure, and that the cable holder on the cable guide has both cables running through it.
Have plenty of backing and observe safety rules, just as you would with a firearm.
May 23, 2010, 10:10 AM
I have a cheetah crisbow crossbow 150lbs with recurve limbs its spotless the plastic version. Anyone intrested can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
May 24, 2010, 06:29 AM
Oh man, the crossbow on the first page is sweeeeet! Perfect for the impending zombie apocalypse. :)
But seriously, what's the price range for crossbows? For an average standard one, not the cheapest but not the most expensive either.
May 24, 2010, 06:31 AM
June 5, 2010, 02:37 PM
Hi There , I came across this forum , I see there are lots of people still enjoying their crisbows
here are mine both are working 100% and the quadro has new cables and string
they are still quite popular here in SA even though they are getting scarce and more and more expensive
here is a pic of what they cost back in the day
has anybody an idea of in what numbers the MKIV was produced?
quadro is Serial 2491 and my Cheetah has a serial number of 10789 , so its seems it was made in quite high numbers
they say its just another crossbow , but there seems to be some magic with the crisbow....
June 6, 2010, 12:31 PM
Welcome to the High Road
I don't know how many were made but my Cheetah is from the late 80s and has serial number 6080.
Did you get the new cables and string recently? If so, there are a few dudes here who would like to know where you got those from because some have broken Quadros.
June 6, 2010, 03:32 PM
there are quite a few bow businesses that can make up the cables and string for you.. if you are in south africa
Magnum archery in Pretoria is know to make up custom cables and strings
also I know "sharp-edge sharp shooter" in Santon (Johannesburg) has helped a guy out
any bow shop should be able to make the string part for you
the cables are a bit more difficult but this has been done many-times before
on a side note if your crisbow MKIV trigger mechanism and safety feels a bit sloppy , take it out and tighten the screw on the side of the mechanism,it will the feel like new , after all these years it might have come loose a bit , giving extra play inside the mechanism
June 7, 2010, 01:42 PM
there is also another thing to be mindfull on these quadro's ,
be sure to check, if all for limbs are tightend all the way, I have seen a few where after all these years they have started to come loose, and this is hidden by the fact that the ends of the bolts holding the limbs to the bracket have plastic covers. use locktite and torque them down tight , but do not go totally crazy as the bracket is made of aluminium.
if they are not all down tight the forces will not be evenly distributed across the limbs leading to numerous problems, and you will not get your full 140#
June 7, 2010, 02:44 PM
Odd Job I hope you dont mind me using your pic for explanation
but here is the sequence required to get to trigger assembly
June 7, 2010, 03:58 PM
That is excellent!
Thanks very much for that guide I definitely find it useful and I'm sure all the other Crisbow owners will too.
June 8, 2010, 01:02 PM
I came across the following for you people looking for a place to make up strings
they list a crisbow in their charts , so at least the know about the manufacturer
here is a link to their reference chart
and here is the crisbow extract
CROSSBOW STRING REFERENCE CHART
this would be the specs for the recurve model it measures about right for my cheetah
I see they make up cables as well ,maybe they can be approched for the quadro as well.
June 14, 2010, 02:00 AM
I replaced my steel limbs , so I took the measurements
hope it helps someone out
June 22, 2010, 12:19 PM
I am absolutely impresed with all that has been said about the crisbows, I have learnt so much in this tread its worth giving credit to all that has participated. Thanks Guys:)
I am fortunate enough to have 3 crisbows and i am trying very hard to convince a friend of mine to sell me his compound camo one also. I will take pictures tonight and ad, as i also need some spares but reading the tread has had me so excited that i will have to read it over again a few times to see what other info i need or can provide.
Thanks again for all the info and excelent photo`s.
June 24, 2010, 06:27 AM
Hi Sybie please post you serial number and type of crisbow (cheetah/Quadro)
as I am trying to see how many early ones have survived
regarding the Camo Version it is quite scarce, the few camo ones I have seen are all MKIII
so if it is a MKIV then it is definately a keeper for you ,
June 29, 2010, 08:03 AM
Hi all, sory for taking so long to reply, was a bit bussy.
Any case I have checked my crossbows and found that there are some diferances between the two Cheetah`s. Mostly they are the same but the one has a raised stock fore end if i could put it that way(Pic Sybie Crossbows and Sybie crosbows 1 ). I asume that the one is a recurve and the other is a compound, if anyone can provide more info i would apreciate it so much. Also there was only one with complete prod, the other two limbs were just tigtened to the bolt with no "prodbracket" for that matter(Pic 4) with the stirap.
The one Cheetah has no serial no(scratched out) but is a Mk3, the other one has a cheetah logo on the one side but the other side the logo has nothing, so I have no indication if it could be a MK3 or anything else(once again I presume it is a Mk3 Compound.
Any info whould be greatly apreciated,the loose prods are marked 150lbs, 16" bolt-are these recurve prods or could they be part of a set for the compound?
I am sure these mising components could be made up but I am not sure if anyone can tell me what steel or material is used.
I also have the Mk2 Imbuia wood, I have payed around with it and it works great, still gona shoot a warthog with it....soon.:D
Sorry Risxc for not having the serial no as requested :mad:
June 29, 2010, 08:06 AM
June 30, 2010, 05:42 AM
Ok I have just opened my eyes and realized that the loose prods that I have are for the recurve models :banghead: ....wich means that i would need the prod bracket that hold the two limbs which then make up the complete prod...if any one can assist please advise? Thanx :)
June 30, 2010, 08:17 AM
Those pics are very interesting: I've never seen a Cheetah crossbow with a flat riser at the front. Has that been cut off or is it smooth (factory)?
Also, the steel stirrup you have there looks like an aftermarket part that was being sold at Sharp Edges in Carlton Centre a long time ago. It might well be that these are very early Crisbow pieces but if I was to hazard a guess I would say that the metal stirrup and the odd-looking prod with 8 vertical bolts are not original Crisbow components.
As far as a replacement bracket goes, you might be able to get that engineered by using your good bracket as a template. It is small enough to be 3D scanned, but will probably be expensive to have made.
June 30, 2010, 09:56 AM
@ Odd Job
The cheetah was definately factory made, i have checked and double checked and checked again for any form of cuting or modifications but nothing.It seems factory made.
The od prod with the 8 bolts comes from my MK2 with the Imbuia Stock. I examined it and it seem well made and not just something someone created in his back yard. I will take pics to explain tonight and then post them tomorrow for interest sake, as a matter of fact I was even contimplating building another such one for those two loose limbs but will investigate tonight if it could work and provide the info tomorrow.
I don`t think someone here in Botswana could help me wrt the engineering so if all else fails I will see what I can do when next I visit South Africa but keep everyone posted.... lets keep this tread alive as i feel everyone has helped me personaly so much.
June 30, 2010, 10:31 AM
Ah, then you got some early kit there and I would keep it for collection purposes if I were you.
July 1, 2010, 02:40 AM
Yes I agree the metal stirrup is the aftermarket one (I also have one knocking around)
I find the crisbow without the riser most interesting, as I have never come across one without it , the crossbow will still work fine (in cheetah form) without it , but you will have no front sight
regarding the missing re curve bracket , I see you do have one you can use as a template,If I was in your position I would take it to an engineering firm and have them make one up for you (they would probably make it out of steel so it would be a bit heavier that the original , but a lot stronger provided the use the same thickness ) this could not be that expensive as it is not a very complex bracket (they would probably use flat steel and weld on the different planes)
the 8 bolt prod is definitely a mkII
shame about the serial no's as it would have told us where to place it in the production run
but it would seem bar the strings your mkII and one MKIII , is complete ,
so someone is going to bag a warthog soon :-)
July 1, 2010, 08:56 AM
a Warthog and maybe if I am lucky enough a Ostrich as well...I am still working on the Ostrich part :)
I have an extra scope that I will put on so that the MK2 and one cheetah will be working perfectly.
I am planing on keeping them and rather get more of them than geting rid of any of them....even if they are for "display purposes only"(of course that doesn`t count for me ;)
July 1, 2010, 12:48 PM
an Ostrich ? , well thats Interesting! the Idea never occurred to me before!
yes , do not get rid of your crisbows as they are becoming scarcer , and it is quite a different design the (MKIII/MKIV composite) than the others.
and try to get a Compound prod (Quadro) I found for hunting, my Quadro hits harder than my Cheetah (must be those aggressive cams)
July 3, 2010, 07:45 AM
Just for interest sake i took some pics of my bolts(arows).they are 22'', so i took one of the damaged ones and cut it down to 16" and wow they are short but will work fine in the bow, I dont think i would use them as I feel they loose to much weight and would decrease the impact on an animal and also will loose the acuracy over longer distances...I hope I am thinking corectly as i have not tested the shorter one...if any one difers from my thoughts please enlighten me as I am no expert of any sorts on arows,ets. Just my personal thoughts.
PS. I have Easton 2117 bolts
July 3, 2010, 07:50 AM
Another thing that i was hoping that someone could assist with is the fletching, what is the best length, the pics i have aded are of some of the ones that i found recently but i have not tested them either,there are 3 lengts and was wondering if someone could asssist me with which i should rather use.:)
What would be the Ideal wieght for the field tips/broadheads be if I would want to use them for hunting(it goes without saying that I wont use a fieldpoint on warthogs,etc)
July 6, 2010, 02:16 AM
Hi Sybie , your 16 inch bolts will have a flatter trajectory than the 22 inch jobs , also bear in mind , your target impact = momentum at that point
and momentum is defined as Mass x Velocity so you will find your shorter bolts will travel faster than the longer ones , the energy the crossbow launches the bolt is about always the same.
so it actually balances out , I prefer shorter bolts in my cheetah (18 inch) as I find them easier to shoot with , as far as I know 16 inch is the shortest you can safely use in a crisbow
regarding the broad-heads , you will find them a lot more inaccurate that field points , I use the normal 100 grain broad-heads , and have had good results with it ,
regarding the fletching,for the crisbow I fletch my bolts a little higher up the shaft as to just clear the loading mechanism (when loaded in crisbow)
also use the bigger fletches if you want to use the broadheads, (as there have more weight to stabilize )
July 6, 2010, 08:37 AM
Thanks for the feedback, yes I was also Thinking that 17" or 18" bolts would be best.Thanks again for the feedback.
July 7, 2010, 08:29 AM
I found a book in my "library" about crosbows...I do not have a printing date for it but it seems as the Crisbow crossbows were quite a favourite in the days gone by.There is a manufacturers and importers list and it indicates the folowing for the Crisbows..(also see pic)
"Crisbow Crossbow, FPA Co., Steve Perry, 17220 New Hope St., Fountain Valley, CA 92708, or John Florence, P.O.Box 69, Pleasanton, CA 94566"
I have heard numerous times and from diferent sources that the Crisbow company was once in Swaziland?? Just thought this could be some info for any one.:D
July 7, 2010, 05:05 PM
I had some good results with double delta fletchings on a short 16" carbon arrow (but that's only as shot against foam).
Agree that the fletchings should be a bit more forward of the nock so that they clear the trigger housing. The back edge of the fletching should be 44mm away from the nock.
July 8, 2010, 04:07 AM
Thanks I will try a few and post the results for all te see what i found.
July 8, 2010, 09:32 PM
G,day all from Australia I have a Crisbow MKIV model number 6583 recurve model purchased it from local gun dealer in Melbourne in 1988 it hasn't seen the light of day for the last 15 or so years just dug it out of the shed, I got it primarily for pig hunting but only ever managed a couple of rabbits with it, I am mainly a compound, recurve bow hunter it's still in farly good nick needs a new string though, have ta chase 1 up.
July 9, 2010, 04:50 AM
Hi Aussie Predator, how about some pics if possible?
July 12, 2010, 02:13 AM
here's the pics of my ol cheetah, needs new string and has a bit of light surface rust but otherwise in good nick.
August 3, 2010, 07:24 AM
I ran across a similar model locally but I am not sure if it is a good deal or not. Three hundred dollars seems a little high for used equipment.
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August 3, 2010, 08:15 AM
well I have seen an perfect example Quadro 2000 go for R2700 that is ~ $370
August 9, 2010, 05:56 PM
Great stuff guys. Thanks for all the photos . I was given a Quadro 2000 by risxc , who is a very good friend of mine. Already topped with a mil-dot 4x32 scope Tomorrow i will contact the local guy that makes up cables ect , and see if he can make me a set. Will post photos asap. My nephew have a mark II ( :confused: maybe) crissbow with the wood stock he bought ~ 1984 in Pretoria . He will be pretty :cuss: when he sees this baby !! Cannot wait to bag a duiker the eco-friendly way ! :evil:
September 22, 2010, 08:53 PM
:confused: hello everyone new to this forum picked up a crissbow mk4 at a yard sale seems to be in great shape(rarely if ever used) promblem is cant get it to shoot straight(shoots low) it also seems to tear up the fletching almost every time. no bolts came with it so i used 20 inch carbon arrows. any ideas what bolts nocks and vanes should be used could this be the reason for the erratic shooting also where could i get some type of scope for this thing if i can get it to shoot strait.
September 23, 2010, 05:14 AM
Hi there, welcome to the High Road
I have experienced both issues that you describe. The tearing of fletchings is easy to sort out. Quite a few possibilities:
1) The prod is not attached in a central position on the frame. Have a look at the front of the bow (obviously with it unloaded) and see if there is equal space at the prod aperture on either side. These prods can be mounted with some play in their position, so you need to get that central. You usually see a few millimetres of the frame on either side, that distance must be equal
2) The scope mount housing sits quite low on the frame and if you get regular crossbow arrows (factory fletching) then these have to be pressed down to fit under the scope mount housing. I found that this can lead to problems because if the fletchings are not exactly level on both sides, you can get wear on the fletchings from the lower lip of the scope mount housing. The solution is to have all your arrows refletched so that the fletchings sit a bit more forward. On mine they sit 44mm from the nock.
3) You need flat nocks, not moon nocks.
4) Loading technique. If you have short arms or are stronger in one arm than the other, you might be starting the loading procedure by grasping only one side of the string then pulling it up to meet the other hand. You can get off-centred loading like this (the centre of the string serving which should be in contact with the back of the arrow now makes contact with one of the bars of the string retaining mechanism instead). When you fire, the string realignes and you have some force imparted to the arrow which is not parallel to the frame. Correct loading technique is to use only three fingers of each hand, which must be placed on the string simultaneously, firmly against the frame and then the string must be drawn up evenly into the retaining mechanism. At all times your chest should be against the buttstock so that you use as much arm power as possible and you are aiming to use zero back muscle. When I load it, the only thing that moves is my arms. If you can't reach or you can't pull it like that then you need to see if a manual rope-cocking assist can help. Unfortunately there are no factory-made cranks or motors for the Crisbow crossbow to assist loading.
5) If your crossbow is compound then you might have a damaged cable-guide, or even a missing cable guide or one of the cables has come out of the cable guide and now you have stresses in the system which could mean the arrow is not acted on by a force parallel to the frame. You need to check that cable guide after each shot: a cable can jump out.
6) Worn centre serving. If the serving is worn (the white thicker string entwined around the middle of the bowstring) then you could have uneven materials acting on the back of the arrow or snagging under the scope mount housing. You need to redo the centre serving if that is the case, making sure it isn't too thick so that it has to be forced under the scope mount housing each time you load.
7) Make sure there are no rough nicks or dings on the crossbow track. Also check that no obstructions are present in the central track groove, because that will take out a fletching.
About the crossbow firing low:
1) These bows are very rough on scopes. You need to check that it can still be adjusted. I went through two factory scopes and one third party scope already on mine. If you can adjust the scope and can shoot lower than where you are hitting currently, then you might have a problem where the scope has been mounted in such a way that you can't get the track and the scope aligned. In your case the front of the scope will be too high in relation to the track. There are ways to sort this out, but I'm not the guy to advise on that procedure. Head over to the rifle forum and ask the dudes there how to do it.
2) If the scope is broken and you need to get a new one, you should make sure you get a genuine crossbow scope. The forces acting on a crossbow scope are more vibratory in nature than those on a rifle, so the internals need to be able to withstand that.
If you don't come right with that advice, then please post pictures of your crossbow, particularly the front prod aperture, the scope mount housing and an overview picture of your scope as mounted on the bow.
Good luck, good shooting, keep it safe and let us know how it goes.
September 25, 2010, 09:21 AM
I own a mk1v crisbow 150 pound recurve style crossbow and i have used it for years..Wish i could get the compound pod you have on yours...bet its cool ...think it s still available somewhere
September 25, 2010, 09:30 AM
i use 20 inch bolt with 100 grain broadhead and it works real good ..I been hunting moose and bear all my life ( 3 kills with bow on moose and 51 on bear)
I find if ur bolts are shorter u dont get the penetration nor acuracy...my crisbow cheetah mk1v is black
September 28, 2010, 08:47 AM
what about fletching size iread on another website where the crisbow requires a narrower vane because of a shallower grove in the rail
September 28, 2010, 06:05 PM
That should be easy to measure if you have the crossbow at hand.
October 16, 2010, 06:04 PM
Here are some pics of my fairly mint Quattro 2000, I've owned since the early '90's.
Hey guys im new here as in i just signed up today ive read eveything in this thread and i currently own a cheetah and from what i read i have the rare one mine is factory camo and is complete aswell but i think i have an after market stirrup since mine dosent look lik the one that comes in the box and i am sorry i cant tell u the serial # that label isnt there and i dont know if it was the guy i got it from or someone els but it has 3 nickels glued there instead the only other prob is the safety dosent work someone has put a screw behind it to hold it in the fire position and im not liking that at all since i use it to hunt with it so i followed the post how get the trigger action out and there is a small sprin in there that lookes like its not sitting right and doing nothing so i was wondering if someone would be willing to pull theres out and take a pic of it and post it or send it to me so i can fix mine thanks ps ill post pics my crosbow later
October 5, 2011, 08:55 PM
I have a crisbow mark IV serial number 1572. What kind of scope can I put on it?
October 6, 2011, 02:04 AM
I recommend getting a scope that is air-rifle rated, or a dedicated crossbow scope if such a thing exists. The scope has to be able to withstand that unique to-and-fro vibration that acts on the crossbow when firing. My current scope is a Swift (I'll get the exact model for you later). I went through two Deben/Hawke scopes on this crossbow, I won't buy another.
The main issue will be the scope rings. The original rings aren't very good. You can see them in Richardtl's pics above. The fit isn't great and you have to tighten them from both sides. The "rail" on the crossbow is a 16mm dovetail and if I remember correctly the BRNO 527 Fox rifle has a rail of the same dimensions and I was able to get better rings from Lynx by searching for that.
June 9, 2012, 03:37 AM
Today i bought a crisbow mk IV. I live in Nanaimo Canada, thanks to this site & this post i see a light at the end of the tunnel. I will take some pictures & hope someone can help me learn about this wonderful hobby.
June 10, 2012, 12:22 AM
June 23, 2012, 03:22 AM
I just acquired a Crisbow Quadro 2000. Now i am trying to find cables, cams and string to refurbish the bow. If anyone knows where I can acquire parts I would be grateful.
July 2, 2012, 03:54 PM
Hi all, I'm Mac and I'm new here.
I joined because it seemed to be the best place to learn some more about the beautiful Crisbow Quadro 2000 I picked up at a yard sale last week for the measly sum of $60 CDN. (I know, what a steal, right?)
Whoever owned it before me must have been a complete idiot, since the cables were actually resting on the rails instead of the cable guide, and the string saver/keeper is missing entirely! I've since sorted the cable problem (easy, peasy, lemon-squeazy, I just unscrewed the stirrup, popped the whole assembly off and put it back on with the cables resting on the guide) but I certainly won't be firing the Quad-monster until I can pick up a new string saver/keeper, or whatever you call it. (I'm not new to crossbows, having owned a Barnett Panzer camo for the last 12 years, but I am brand-spanking new to compound crossbows.)
Since the original keeper is who knows where, any suggestions on a good replacement?
Also, any suggestions on rigging new cables/strings? Ideally, I'd like to have a spares on hand for both, an old habit from my recurve longbow days, and I understand that spare parts/strings cables are scarcer than hens' teeth for these excellent nail-drivers.
It's a real beauty, and I can't wait to get it out to the range and fire it a few times, but I won't take chances with an unknown quantity like the obviously abused cables and string. Any help is greatly appreciated!
July 2, 2012, 07:54 PM
Mahon MacRi, the cable guide is definitely something you can make yourself. All you need to do is get a piece of polyethylene or similar material and drill a hole through it which is just a little bit larger than the cable guide rod on the crossbow. It won't matter if you don't get the shape of the rest of the guide exact, as long as you have a large enough transverse "conduit" in which to place the cables. You need to make sure that there is a rearward-facing "hook" on one side of that conduit otherwise you will find that one of the cables can jump out of the guide upon firing. Have a look at post 2 and see if that is enough info in the picture to make your own. If not, I will post detailed images of the guide for you.
Of course, the drilled hole will have to be very smooth and I advise lubricating the cable guide rod with silicon. I also lubricate the plastic coating of the cables where they cross in the conduit. They do rub against one another upon firing.
I don't know where you can get cable and cam spares, sorry.
July 7, 2012, 11:54 AM
I have a Crisbow MKIII Serial 2234. I have had it for maybe 25 years. I am looking for a strrip. Mine cracked in a move. :(
I was wondering if anyone knew of a replacement or at least the nut size?
167730 167731 167732
July 29, 2012, 04:10 AM
I am from South Africa. have a crisbow mkIV cheetah camo recurve (GRP)serno.9668 and a black mkIV recurve.I have disassembled the trigger mec. and fixed it,I have pics if you want to see how it looks.inside and when its removed.I am planing to shoot my first buck next year with the camo crisbow(150 lbs)my email email@example.com
July 29, 2012, 01:58 PM
Pics of the mechanism would be great, thanks. Welcome to THR!
September 19, 2012, 08:04 AM
Good day. Can any one please let me know where i can get cams/wheels for a MK IV quadro 2000. Or maybe if you know someone that can make them. both of mine got busted. Please let me know
November 29, 2012, 03:04 PM
My name is Doem and I am from the good old Republic of South Africa. I am looking for a nice clear photo of the slider on a Crissbow Quadro Mk3. I can`t seem to buy one so I want to make it myself which should noit be to difficult to make. Oddjob I tried the guys in Belgium but it looks like they answer one back only once and then nothing so I will make it myself with the help of one of you please. Thanks. PS i bought this bow for a measely R300 -00. In US Dollars it will be about 35 USD. Still in very good condition. Just needs a string and cable and slider. Nothing left in South Africa looks like.
I agree that you don't have to make it exactly like that. All you have to do is make sure of three things:
1) The guide rod hole must be just over 8mm in diameter.
2) The cable hole must be 7mm in diameter with a top access gap just wider than one cable.
3) You must have a "hook" effect on that 7mm hole so that the cables can't jump out of the guide when you fire.
The only purpose I can see for the 6mm hole is to reduce weight, you probably don't need to drill that at all.
Hope that helps.
November 29, 2012, 07:07 PM
I forgot to add you must watch for clearance between the cable guide and the arrow: probably shouldn't go more than 2.7mm thickness on the underside of the 8.5mm hole...
November 29, 2012, 11:53 PM
Thank you very much. This will definitely help. Do you perhaps have any more leads on aquiring the much needed strings and cable? I really would like to bring this bow to its former glory as overall it is still in very good condition and by the way the serial number is 7333. Apreciate the pics OJ
November 30, 2012, 12:00 AM
PS OJ. Don`t you think that the slider will be more stable in movement if you don`t cut out the bottom piece and make it equal in lenght. This way you wont have the bending over as the string moves backwards. Its like tilting backwards as the string moves back. I trhink it will be a bit more stable, stronger and more fluent when you release the bolt. Only my opinion as I have only observed this part now for the first time. PS Again I live in the part of RSA where hunting is aplenty - kudu, eland, warthog and many more. A hunters paradise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
November 30, 2012, 11:01 AM
The cable guide doesn't tilt, because there is quite a bit of downward force from the cables and also it fits snugly on the guide rod. But it seems to me you could have that bottom piece full length and not harm it. The weight would be a bit more but I don't think its critical.
November 30, 2012, 02:22 PM
Hi OJ. Yeah I also think it is not critical. And as I am not one of the best DIY guys around I`ll just make it as unrefined but still to do the job. Thanks again for all the info.
December 1, 2012, 02:47 AM
Great news to all those guys looking for strings for the Crisbow Quadro etc. I found a guy , Marvin Long from Tailormaid Archery for can make those string for about 14 USD. His email is firstname.lastname@example.org and he is from the USA. I will definitely be ordering mine. Cheers
December 2, 2012, 01:36 PM
I am in the need for Easton Eagle 2117 aluminium bolts or what other combination may I used for my Crisbow MK 3.
December 2, 2012, 01:45 PM
I had some arrows made up for me at Sharp Edge in Sandton City, you can Google them. The main thing to make sure of is that the nocks are flat, not moon/notched. If you have the arrows custom made you can ask them to set the fletchings 44mm from the back of the nock.
December 3, 2012, 09:30 AM
Thanx OJ. I see you`re an ex-pat. My cousin also stay in London
March 3, 2013, 11:41 AM
I got myself another Crisbow yesterday. This is a "new old stock" Quadro 2000 MKIV with imbuia stock. It comes in two boxes, the first box has the stock, the stirrup and two Easton 2117 arrows. The version I bought doesn't have a scope, I will have to get that separately:
I'll let you know how that imbuia version shoots once I have put a scope on it.
I also managed to get hold of a Cheetah MKIII GRP (glass reinforced plastic) stock and I'll be taking photos of that alongside of my MKIV stock to highlight any differences.
March 4, 2013, 09:58 AM
Very good buy that. I found that my trigger is very hard to pull. Any suggestion on how to make it lighter and smoother?
March 4, 2013, 11:46 AM
I opened up a Quadro trigger mechanism to have a look at the springs and it seems to me (in my humble newbie opinion) that there isn't much that can be done about it besides maybe spraying the mechanism with Remoil or similar lubricant. Most of that trigger resistance is due to tension on the string. I don't have the means to measure the trigger pull on mine, or we could compare weights.
I'm going to post detailed pictures of the access to the trigger mechanism in the next few weeks, with thanks again going to Risxc for describing the procedure in previous posts.
March 30, 2013, 04:57 PM
I opened two trigger mechanisms: one was on a well-used Cheetah MKIV and the other was a never-fired Cheetah MKII. The process is the same for both so I'll post pictures of the MKIII sequence here. Many thanks to RISXC for describing the process originally.
First, you need to remove any pins holding the plastic dovetail rail insert to the main scope/sight mount. In this case there was one pin (arrowed):
Next, wind the elevation nut (blue arrow) all the way up by turning it counter clockwise. Note under the nut there is a plastic hook (yellow arrow) which is part of the dovetail insert and which must be moved rearward before it can be released:
You can now see the trigger mechanism but you cannot pull it out yet!
You need to take the safety catch off (orange arrow) and then whilst pulling the trigger you need to move the cable catch (green arrow) forward.
Don't try to pull the plastic buffer out of the front, it is retained under the trigger mechanism floor plate! Instead, gently rock the mechanism out. A flat screw driver at the top rear (white arrow) will help, and the plastic buffer will rise with the trigger mechanism. Use the cable catch (yellow arrow) to lift the front:
I am looking for a new set of cams for my MK3 Crissbow. Could it be re-manufactured out of aluminium? Mine still functions but not in to great a shape. Please help
April 12, 2013, 12:50 PM
I can't see a reason why aluminium won't work, but the issue will be how it is manufactured. You might be able to send the existing cams to a company who can laser scan them and then make them in a CNC process but I suspect that will be quite expensive!
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