What would you recommend?


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Ergosphere
June 4, 2008, 05:38 AM
I'm looking for a folding knife of decent size and tough enough for utility (i.e. abuse -- this will be part of my emergency/earthquake kit).

I've done some browsing, and I like the Kershaw Blur in S30V (1670S30V) and the Benchmade 950 Osborne Rift. The Benchmade 551 Griptillian with a D2 steel blade has also caught my eye.

Any suggestions?

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Huckle2
June 4, 2008, 06:07 AM
I carry this one in my car and truck. Stays there hoping I never have a need for it.

http://www.kershaw-knives.net/Kershaw-Ken-Onion-Rescue-Blur-KS1675RDST.htm

hso
June 4, 2008, 10:56 AM
Do you have an upper limit on price?

Size?

Preferred carry method?

When you say you'll abuse the knife I'm immediately moved to suggest the Sebenza, but you may not want to pay $350 it takes to get a folding knife that you can truly "abuse".

You may want to consider one of the sharpened pry bars out there and a good folder for utility duties (unless you want to get a Sebenza).

ArfinGreebly
June 4, 2008, 12:47 PM
So this knife is, for the most part, going to sit in a box or bag, waiting for an emergency?

As in, "not used on a regular basis," but to have there "just in case" something happens?

Hmm.

See, that would chafe me a little, getting a really high-quality piece like you suggest (something capable of hard use without failure), and having it just sit.

I have a BoB that has in it a Leatherman Wave, a Buck 110, a Ka-bar hobo tool, a Swiss Army knife, and some assorted odd tools that will do what knives won't. Now, none of those is a truly "heavy hitter" in the world of knives, but each will do a good job of what it's been designed for. In total cost, there's $200 worth of cutlery and tools in that bag, but no single one of them cost more than $75.

Oddly enough, I carry a similar load-out daily, valued at around the same total as the knives in that bag. Except that I don't have a Peanut in the bag. (Oh, Lord, I'm gonna have to remedy that before Steve finds out!)

I've given some thought to having a high-end knife (like a Chris Reeves) tucked away, but I haven't been able to make my peace with the idea of a $300 piece of tool-art sitting in a bag I hope I never have to open.

I think, however, that if I reconfigure the bag for camping/hiking/outdoors stuff, at least I'd get to visit my hardware every few weeks or months.

In fact, I imagine that, if I play with the bag-o-toys on an occasional basis, I might actually be able to use it on the day it becomes necessary.

There's a novel thought.

JCF
June 4, 2008, 12:57 PM
If you don't want to spend the money it takes to get a Sebenza, etc... you might consider one of the older Buck-Strider collaboration knives. I have a Tarani (ATS-34 with G10 scales) and an 880. I've used both exceptionally hard (the Tarani especially) and I have no complaints.

Pics aren't mine... just for reference.

hso
June 4, 2008, 01:18 PM
I do hope you do not intend to just stick the knife in a kit instead of carrying it as an EDC. A knife that you intend to bet your life on should be something that is familiar to you as a well used pair of work boots. You should know everything about it because you carry it all the time and can trust it because you have put it through it's paces often enough to know what it can and can not do for you.

Get a sharpened pry bar (or an unsharpend pry bar) and stick it in your kit and keep your folder with you all the time.

The Tourist
June 4, 2008, 02:15 PM
I mirror HSO's thoughts to a grat extent, we differ only in application.

For example, I know what a BOB is, in fact, the console of my truck does the heavy lifting. Other than a bathroom, you could probably live in my truck--that's the point.

The fork in the road is the idea and application of cutting tools. As you have heard, a cutting tool was probably one of man's earliest tools. (I think his second manufactured tool. His first would be a "hammer.")

Keeping that in mind, not only must my BOB knife be superior for diddly-bopping, but my EDC must have those same qualities. And I don't apologize one whit because my bike's a customized Harley, my wife is a six-foot blonde, my pistols are Colts and my EDCs are Grahams, Striders and Emersons.

If I need this stuff to eat a burger in a well heated diner, I will certanly need the same knife for when the lights go out.

My wife carries a BOB knife geared to her views and skills when cutting food, defending herself or hacking through seal-belts and packing tape.

I bought her a clip-point Gerber Gator. She could have had anything, but she likes the slip-resistant handle. And we know a sharpener...

Ergosphere
June 4, 2008, 02:21 PM
Thanks everyone. No, the knife will not sit in a box or bag all the time, it will be carried either in a pocket or bag/backpack (it won't do much good if I can't get to it!). When I say I might abuse the knife, I'm not talking about regular use... just that as part of my earthquake kit, it's difficult to say what I may need to cut my way into our out of.

For size, a ~3.5" blade seems to fit me pretty well. My wife has a Kershaw Blur which is pretty good - the blade length feels about right, maybe just a *tad* short. Those two Benchmade knives are slightly larger... I haven't had the chance to see them in person but my guess is the size is about right.

A $350 knife is definitely out of my price range. Upper limit would be about the level of the Benchmade, say around $130 or so.

The Tourist
June 4, 2008, 02:33 PM
A $350 knife is definitely out of my price range.

I understand your needs and concerns. But let me tell you a story.

In the early 1960's, my Dad got the bug to start camping and fishing again. (The main reason why I stay in hotels with room service, even at Sturgis. I've spent enough cold rainy nights hiding under a picnic table.)

And, truth be told, while my Dad had money, he was also squeaky cheap. And I'm not talking frugal, I'm talking cheap. If a waitress was slow in bring him a cleaner spoon, that cost her a buck in tips.

So he goes to Sears and talks to the camping guy on tents and sleeping bags. The guy tells us that you don't scrimp on sleeping bags because, there's nothing worse than a sleepless night of being wet and cold.

And while my Dad did get us a fairly good upgrade, I froze like a push-up pudding pop.

So here's my advice. There's a reason why varminters buy 1,000 dollar scopes. There's a reason why my wife buys stiletto heels for the cost of customizing a 1911. And there's a reason why I carry a 400 dollar folder.

So, the final scoop from an old fudd, eat macaroni and cheese for a month. But buy a good knife. Oh, and WigWam socks...

hso
June 4, 2008, 04:42 PM
Ergosphere,

If the right knife is out of your price range then adapt. Get a good knife that will handle normal hard use and a flat pry bar for what the knife can't be asked to do. It does boil down to that.

I've carried a Sebenza for the past 10 years because I might ask of it what other knives may not do. I bought it for that reason and I've used it that way in the past (see former posts on stupid things I've done to the poor thing) and it rides in my pocket to this day. I have sharpened pry bars galore (I'm a fan of the ugly things), but I can't carry one all the time. I can my Sebenza.

On the other hand I do have a sharpened pry bar in each vehicle (and pack and ...) and I keep an Atwood Prybaby attached to my keys.

If you average out the price of a Sebenza over the decade the price isn't too bad. :cool:

Joe Demko
June 4, 2008, 05:12 PM
I've never been extra fond of "sharpened pry bar knives." Especially if it was for a bag of stuff, I'd get a more generally useful knife and a small pry bar. If weight is a concern, you can get an actual 15 inch titanium pry bar for $25 (http://www.materials.com/Titanium_tools.HTML)that would be better for prying things than a thick-bladed knife.


Annoying Moderator Note: The website for the Ti Crow/Pry bars may have them posted, but according to the person I just spoke to at the site they haven't actually had them for a long time and don't expect to get any more. Dontcha hate it when they leave that stuff up.

Ergosphere
June 5, 2008, 06:18 PM
Joe, that titanium prybar is nifty. :) Thanks. It has been added to my kit list.

I'll have to take the approach recommended by Hso. There's no way I can triple the budget for a knife at the moment. That said, are there any strong opinions regarding the S30V Kershaw Blur versus a Benchmade Griptillian or Rift?

JCF -- thanks, I will look into the Buck-Striders as well.

Tourist, I get it... and I generally try to buy quality. But I find it difficult to believe that $100 can't buy a good knife.

hso
June 6, 2008, 10:08 AM
You certainly can buy a "good" knife for $100.

It's just what "good" is expected to be that has a variable definition.;)

Ok, so the real question now is what is the best folding knife for self-rescue work for $100 or less.

That means tough with a bombproof lock. Edge holding may not be as important as strength. Capable of some light prying and batoning. Capable of cutting a seat belt. Is that about right???

You're still going to need a pry bar for the bag because for $100 and under I can not think of a single folder I'd consider using to pop a door open and still expect the knife to function properly.

Joe Demko
June 6, 2008, 11:01 AM
Try here. (http://www.safetysaves.com/safety_tools/Non-Sparking-Non-Magnetic-Corrosion-Resistant-Safety-Bar-Pinch-pr-184.html)

This looks like you could mess stuff up with it. (http://www.amazon.com/Stiletto-TICLW12-ClawBar-Titanium-Puller/dp/B0000T4VAG/ref=pd_bbs_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1212764051&sr=8-1)

Ergosphere
June 6, 2008, 01:51 PM
That means tough with a bombproof lock. Edge holding may not be as important as strength. Capable of some light prying and batoning. Capable of cutting a seat belt. Is that about right???

You're still going to need a pry bar for the bag because for $100 and under I can not think of a single folder I'd consider using to pop a door open and still expect the knife to function properly.

That sounds reasonable, though cutting ability is important.
Knives are a bit short to provide the leverage for serious prying anyway. I'm thinking it should be rugged enough to cut through drywall, sheet metal, etc. in an emergency... good steel. I agree the lock is important (I've heard nothing but good comments about Benchmade's axis lock). The handle should be sturdy as well.

sm
June 6, 2008, 01:53 PM
Nevermind...

Others are better to assist as I am old school and don't know nuttin' about nuttin'...

Ergosphere
June 6, 2008, 04:37 PM
Others are better to assist as I am old school and don't know nuttin' about nuttin'...

sm, I've read enough of your posts... you can't fool me, it's clear that you know a heck of a lot more than "nuttin' about nuttin'..." :)

JShirley
June 6, 2008, 04:59 PM
I would want to try these things out first, but you can get something like a Cold Steel Finn Wolf (http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=45146) ($16) a CRKT MAK-1 (http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=45073) (57$) and a Byrd Flight G10 (http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=44473) ($26). This will run you a little over $100, including shipping. I would definitely test the CS to be sure it's both strong and sharp enough for reasonable use. Cold Steel is going to lower quality steels for most of its line. It'll probably work fine, but test it.

You might want to add something like a Gerber Infinity (http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=44919) ($10) and a CRKT Zilla Tool (http://www.newgraham.com/detail.aspx?ID=44267) ($27) or other good but inexpensive multitool. Add a small sharpening stone, a few AA batteries and a lighter, and you'll be well on your way to having the tools for a good basic survival kit. :) If you're really trying to watch space/funds, just a multi-tool with a knife and a sharpened prybar would be the way to go. You can have those delivered to your door for less than $100. :)

Years ago, I was trying to find a single rifle to cover all my rifle needs. Sure, it's possible, but you're likely to end up with something that's not optimal for any of them. Same thing with knives. Probably better to have a decent fixed blade, a prybar, and a folder than trying to make a folder do everything.

John

Stainz
June 6, 2008, 08:43 PM
Thus far, I haven't seen Bucks mentioned. The venerable 110 lockback folding hunter (3.75" 420HC) is a deal at $25 from Wally World. Get the S30V version from Cabela's as their 'Alaskan Guide' series ($67). The polished '07 Collector's Tin 110, bottom in the picture below, was actually cheaper than a standard 110 at Wally World at closeout by the first of this year. The middle picture is the Buck #419 Folding Kalinga Pro (~3.9") in S30V (<$100). When that one arrived, I was on the way to a Christmas party - and used it as my EDC - I did get a stare when I pulled it out to use it to trim my ham, but it's a great and sturdy, especially for a liner lock, knife. All are US made, too - in ID.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u307/Stainz_2007/IMG_0456_edited.jpg

Stainz

PS the top knife is the Buck #408 Fixed Kalinga Pro in S30V(~$100).

LAK
June 6, 2008, 10:25 PM
Lone Wolf T2 or T3 (Harsey design). You can get a T3 which has a blade almost 5" long for c.$200. The T2 with a shorter blade are around $120 or so.

Funderb
June 6, 2008, 10:31 PM
kershaw vapor 2

Ergosphere
June 7, 2008, 12:56 AM
If you're really trying to watch space/funds, just a multi-tool with a knife and a sharpened prybar would be the way to go.

I'm not thrilled with multi-tools... mostly what impresses me about them is how uncomfortable they are in my hand. I'd hate to do any serious cutting with one.

Probably better to have a decent fixed blade, a prybar, and a folder than trying to make a folder do everything.


A fixed blade can't be easily (or legally) carried in my pocket. I have tools and will add a pry bar to my bag, but what I don't have is a blade I can carry.

RonSC
June 7, 2008, 05:28 PM
For a tough no-nonsense quality folder that won't give you sticker-shock this Gerber Freeman will fit the bill.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0027308516499a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=S30V&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=S30V&noImage=0 ....(read reviews) A LOT of quality for the $$..!

RonSC

jhansman
June 7, 2008, 06:18 PM
Buck 110, if you can find an American made one. The Chinese version for sale at Wallyworld you can have. My circa-1980 Buck is as solid as ever, and if I had to grab one in a pinch, that's it.

Stainz
June 8, 2008, 07:07 AM
Do a bit more research re the Buck 110 at Wally World. While the 370-series folders they carry are made overseas, the Buck 110 is still made here - along with the 119 fixed hunting knife and the 503 Prince small lockback they carry. If you bought one there that isn't perfect, either exchange it or send it to Buck for adjustment. I have a fair number of 110s, including a beautiful Buck Custom Shop in teardrop Damascus and flaming Koa wood scales, and they all came the same way - perfect. Even the Christmas 'Collector's Tin' 110s, which I have bought for as little as $11 after Christmas on closeout, are perfect. The knives are made in ID.

Of course, the tins and the nylon sheaths are imports (PRC) - as are the leather sheaths (Mexico). The $25 110 at Wally World is a steal.

Stainz

ArfinGreebly
June 8, 2008, 12:25 PM
The Buck catalog has "import" entries and USA-made entries.

The 110, 112, 55, 5xx, 119, 120, 102, 103, 105, 171, 172, 192, 692, 650, 655, 297, 298, 301, 303, 305, 309, 310, 500, and on and on are all made here in Post Falls, Idaho, about eight miles from my house.

Their 37x and 38x wood-handled traditional patterns are imports, but made to their standards. I've gotten some to test, and they're done well.

Some of their more modern profiles are imports, while others are made here.

But that 110 and 119 that you see at Wal*Mart?

Those are, quite frankly, a real steal, sold almost at cost.

Every few weeks I pick up another 110 at Wal*Mart, and just stash it. There are plenty of folks out there who will be convinced that if it's that cheap, there must be something wrong with it. Then, by the time it dawns on them that, while the sheath, packaging, and printing are all done somewhere else, the actual knife is made here, the party will end, and either the price will shoot up or Wal*Mart will quit carrying them altogether.

In my lifetime, I've let ignorance and bias drive me away from countless incredible deals. I didn't buy Schrades when they were made in USA and cheap. I missed out on a whole generation of traditional patterns, made in USA, very reasonably priced, and terribly, terribly useful, until they were gone or finally so expensive that it got my attention. Where the hell was I when hardware stores everywhere sold Case knives from a glass case by the registers? I was being a "design snob." And an idiot.

The Buck 110 and 119 at Wal*Mart are the real deal, and a real steal.

Stainz
June 8, 2008, 04:08 PM
If you watch the Canadian survivalist, Les Stroud - aka 'Survivorman', on Discovery, etc, he usually has a multi-tool. If he has a separate knife, it's been a Buck 119 - just like the $34 wonder at Wally World.

Now, if you like Bear Grylls, of 'Man vs Wild' fame, he uses a British, of course, custom Bayley knife - which you can order for 350 pounds - pushing $750 US by the time it got here. Les is the real deal.

Stainz

wheelgunslinger
June 8, 2008, 04:12 PM
I don't shop at WalMart, but that's a heck of an endorsement from you guys. I'll grab one of those from smoky mountain or somewhere.

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