1911 Slide won't come off during disassembly


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remingtonfoxx
June 17, 2008, 05:32 PM
Maybe some of you guys know the answer to my question. I purchased a RIA Tactical 1911 in .45 acp. The RIA (made by ARMSCOR) is a colt clone and all the parts are innerchangable. I followed all the instructions down to removing the slide stop. Then came the trouble. The slide will not come off the frame. Something is impeding its removal. It is not frozen. I can move it back and forward, but it appears to be hitting something metal on the inside which prevents it from sliding off. Any suggestions? It is not the guide rod as the loose spring keeps it in line. Has anyone heard of this problem before? or had a similar experience with another 1911.

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alex_trebek
June 17, 2008, 05:39 PM
Ok if you removed the slide stop, I am going to assume that the safety is off.

Does the this have the full length guide rod? If so, have you removed it?

Mine sticks sometimes because the hammer catches on part of the slide...

I know that this probably wont help a lot, but it's all I have.

P.S.

After reinstalling the slide stop, make sure not the leave the "idiot" scratch across the lower receiver by rotating the stop while pushing down. I only did that once, and promptly *facepalm*

GreenFurniture
June 17, 2008, 05:41 PM
Did you remove the magazine?

Do that.

kingpin008
June 17, 2008, 05:44 PM
I used to have an RIA 1911, and I can say that sometimes you had to use a little force to remove the slide from the frame. As long as the safety is off, and the slide is moving (even a little bit) you might just have to kinda "slam" it off. Basically, grab the slide and with a sharp, forceful foreward movement, take it off of the frame. Worked for me.

I know what you mean about the feeling of it hitting something metal inside and being kept from being removed, which is why I suggested what I did. Sorry it's not very clear or specific, but it's the best I can do.

Good luck!

MaterDei
June 17, 2008, 05:46 PM
If you have a firing pin block safety (a.k.a. Swartz safety) it can sometimes stick in the up position which prevents the slide from coming all the way off. Two things you need to do.

1. Make sure the grip safety is NOT depressed as you are removing the slide.

2. Work the grip safety quickly in an attempt to 'unstick' the pin that deactivates the safety. Also, if you beat the magazine well into the palm of your hand this might help as well.

Good luck.

remingtonfoxx
June 17, 2008, 05:46 PM
Thank you for your response. The ambi safety is off. I believe it is a full length guide rod, but I'm not 100% on that. That hammer is clear of the slide. Can I remove the guide rod prior to removing the slide?

Eric F
June 17, 2008, 05:49 PM
Can I remove the guide rod prior to removing the slide?
is this a gi model? does it have an after market guide rod? Did you remove the barrel bushing?

In fact I am sure you still have the barrel bushing in place it will twist one way to allow the spring to come out then the other to remove it. If you have a ful length guide rod it will likely need to come out first.

remingtonfoxx
June 17, 2008, 05:50 PM
Lots of great suggestions. The mag is removed. I have only exerted minor force. Grip saftey is not depressed. I will try all of your good suggestions and report back. Thanks for all your help.

Calhoun
June 17, 2008, 05:52 PM
I have the same weapon. I find that it is much easier to remove the slide w/the FLGR still in place. This includes the spring and bushing as well. Basically I strip it like any other autopistol to get the slide off the frame, then finish stripping the slide/barrel/guide rod like any other 1911.

I'm sure that some 1911 lover will be along shortly to tell me that every time I fire a 1911 with a FLGR it's like kicking the ghost of JM Browning's dog, and that stripping it like that is akin to communism, but it works for me.

Good luck!

Janitor
June 17, 2008, 05:52 PM
MaterDel mentioned the Swartz safety. You might have a little "flag" (for lack of a better term) sticking up a bit on the right side of the gun, just in front of the hammer preventing the slide from coming back all the way.

Make sure the grip safety isn't being depressed while you try to take the slide off.

Hold the gun upright (slide up) when you work on it.

Don't *force* anything.

MaterDei
June 17, 2008, 05:53 PM
This is the pin that can get stuck in the 'up' position. When this happens the slide will move forward only an inch or two. If it is moving more than that then your problem is something else.

http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/review/pix/Kimber_Pro_CDP_slide_removed_250.jpg

alex_trebek
June 17, 2008, 05:56 PM
Can I remove the guide rod prior to removing the slide?

You should be able to, I can on mine. The main reason I asked earlier is sometimes mine causes trouble during reassembly, I figured yours was have the opposite effect.

I believe it is a full length guide rod, but I'm not 100% on that.

Easy test for this one. When the slide is locked back (obviously before you starting field stripping) could you see the guide rod under the barrel? Also on the full length guide rod models you use a plastic tool to rotate the barrel bushing.

I think there different designs for the full length guide rods. Does yours unscrew with an allen wrench on the front, or do the instructions indicate otherwise?

remingtonfoxx
June 17, 2008, 05:57 PM
ERIC F

Yes, it is basically a GI model. Barrel bushing is off. Guide rod is stock. Should I try to yank it out?

remingtonfoxx
June 17, 2008, 06:05 PM
I can see the guide rod under the barrel. no Allen wrench needed. Also, I can remove barrel bushing without a tool. just with my fingers.

Eric F
June 17, 2008, 06:06 PM
if it is a stock guide rod you cant remove it first you have to take the slide off. if you have the short gi guide try to rotate the gun upside down then remove the slide the shotr gi guide could be binding on something.

Eric F
June 17, 2008, 06:08 PM
I can see the guide rod under the barrel
is it the short one or a full length guide rod? if its the short one push it back into the slide its binding.

cxg231
June 17, 2008, 06:10 PM
I have the same problem with the slide not coming off on my Kahr M1911A1 GI.

The short guide rod or the rotating barrel link gets caught on something inside the slide. If I hold the pistol upside down and give it a few good shakes, whatever is hung up comes loose and the slide comes right off without any problems.

strat81
June 17, 2008, 06:12 PM
I remove the recoil plug and spring and then remove the slide stop on my Spartan. Sometimes it requires some persuasion to remove.

If not... do you have a Dremel? ;)

Eric F
June 17, 2008, 06:16 PM
If not... do you have a Dremel?:what:

strat81
June 17, 2008, 07:05 PM
"I keed, I keed!"

putteral
June 17, 2008, 08:04 PM
There is a video on Youtube of a guy taking his tactical apart
http://youtube.com/watch?v=wtWNy4KZoEc

krs
June 17, 2008, 08:50 PM
sheeesh.

Eric F
June 17, 2008, 09:39 PM
well did you fix it or what? What ended up being the issue?

stolivar
June 17, 2008, 10:09 PM
I just take the slide off with the FLGR in place. then I remove the rest.

steve

remingtonfoxx
June 18, 2008, 09:18 PM
No, it is not fixed. I have tried all suggestions. I worked the grip safety a million times, I beat the mag well on my shoe, i exerted a number of sharp forceful movements and nothing . It does not appear to be the the firing fin safety block. I took off the grips incase it was blocking the ambi safety and nothing. It comes apart and goes back together fine with the exception of being able to actually remove the slide, barrel and guide rod. It shoots fine, no problems, but I am concerned that I can't fully field strip. Any other ideas short of taking it to a gunsmith/

stolivar
June 18, 2008, 09:24 PM
and then try just taking the slide off.


steve

Confederate
June 18, 2008, 09:36 PM
Can you feel where the slide is being impeded? If you move it back and forth you should be able to feel whether it's on the right or left part of the frame, then fore or aft. At this point you don't have much to lose by removing the guide and spring, if you can. I can't imagine what else would be holding it.

HeavyDuty
June 18, 2008, 10:46 PM
I'll bet a donut the link pin is loose and has drifted sideways. Can you see the link move when you try and remove the slide?

berkbw
June 19, 2008, 11:40 AM
Without an exact picture of where things stop moving, it is a tad hard to find what's wrong.

Here's a way to win or lose a donut.

Remove bbl bushing and recoil spring. Is the guide rod easy to pull/push? Hopefully, it is, otherwise the flange [or buffer] is hammered.

Remove the slide stop pin. You should be able to slide the bbl forward quite a bit - easily. If not, time to buy him a donut. The link pin has most likely moved.

In any case, I would have it sent back to Nevada.

b-

lonnierm
September 10, 2008, 02:37 AM
I don't know if you had any luck yet, but I just baught an EMP 40S&W. I shot about 75 rounds, disassembled it and cleaned, put it back together, and then shot another ~125 rounds. When I got home and went to clean it I couldn't get the slide to come off. Upon removing the slide stop I could only get it to move ~.25" forward. I had to remove the firing pin to get the slide to come off. What happened to me was the ejector add begun to work itself up off of the frame. I tried to remove it, with the intent to clean and add some lock-tite and tap it back in, but couldn't get it out—so I just tapped it back in with a plastic mallet. The firing pin stop may have been a part of the problem from the get-go for me, it was definately making contact with the ejector after it had backed out. I carefully did some light grinding and polishing with a dremel tool to round the edge of the firing pin stop and the edge of the ejector where the interference/contact had been.

HTH—Lonnie M.

see photos:
84474

84475

M203Sniper
September 10, 2008, 03:52 AM
I have the same weapon. I find that it is much easier to remove the slide w/the FLGR still in place. This includes the spring and bushing as well. Basically I strip it like any other autopistol to get the slide off the frame, then finish stripping the slide/barrel/guide rod like any other 1911.

I'm sure that some 1911 lover will be along shortly to tell me that every time I fire a 1911 with a FLGR it's like kicking the ghost of JM Browning's dog, and that stripping it like that is akin to communism, but it works for me.

Good luck!

I don't care who you are THAT was funny! Calhoun you owe me a keyboard!

1911Tuner
September 10, 2008, 05:40 PM
In the never-ending quest for match-grade accuracy from a 400-dollar pistol...they've left the lower barrel lug without sufficient clearance with its recess in the frame.

Remove the slidestop and push the slide as far forward as it will go. Use a bent paper clip to lift the barrel up into the slide. If there isn't enough clearance between the barrel hood and the slide to use the clip, flip the pistol upside down. The barrel has to be in the in-battery position. It will come off now.

Look at the lower barrel lug. There will be two marks or scratches on either side. There may be a little galling if you tried to force it with the barrel down on the frame bed. Check the recess for burrs and dress them with a small file.

Use a smooth mill file, or a bastard-cut file gently if a smooth mill file isn't available...(Lowe's...6-inch mill file. 5 bucks)...to make a little clearance. Take equal amounts off each side. It shouldn't need more than a thousandth or two per side.

Be careful not to let the corner of the file cut into the fillet where the sides of the lug join the barrel. This isn't where you want a sharp corner.

Check the clearance as you go by sliding the barrel in and out of the frame. When it clears...take one more light stroke per side. That shouls do it.

Cheers

14er
June 12, 2009, 11:30 AM
1911 Tuner

I have the same problem with my RIA compact tactical and so far I have not had one problem with this pistol having approx. 500 rounds through it. I went to dissasemble it, removed the slide stop and the slide would not move forward more than 1/4". The slide does move backward just fine. I have tried your suggestions to remingtonfoxx with no luck, do you have any other suggestions?

I appreciate any ideas on this.

wditto
June 12, 2009, 12:04 PM
soundz like the magazine is still in

1911Tuner
June 12, 2009, 12:43 PM
14er...It's the same issue as described above in post 32. Get the
recoil spring plug out and move the slide as far forward as it will go...then tap on the rear of the slide with a rawhide mallet. A length of 2X4 will do, but don't hit it too hard.

14er
June 12, 2009, 02:14 PM
Thanks for the quick reply 1911 Tuner.

Unfortunately, since it is a compact, I am not able to remove the recoil spring plug until after the slide is removed from the frame. I can try the mallet tonight and see what happens.

14er
June 12, 2009, 05:27 PM
I am having the same problem you were re: the slide not coming off the frame and wanted to know if you were ever able to remedy this issue. If so, how did you do it?

Thanks

1911Tuner
June 12, 2009, 07:36 PM
I am not able to remove the recoil spring plug until after the slide is removed from the frame.

Ah! One of those. Okay. Just remove the slidestop and use the mallet. It should come off once the lower barrel lug is clear of the recess.

14er
June 12, 2009, 10:56 PM
1911 Tuner-

Tapping the mallet on the end of the slide worked!! The culprit looked to be the barrel link pin. It had worked itself over a hair. I tried to tap it back over with no luck, so I pulled out the dremel and made it good. Is it common for the link pin to do this?

Thanks again.

HeavyDuty
July 12, 2009, 11:19 PM
Told 'ya so! You owe me a donut.

doubs43
July 13, 2009, 01:03 AM
The culprit looked to be the barrel link pin. It had worked itself over a hair. I tried to tap it back over with no luck, so I pulled out the dremel and made it good. Is it common for the link pin to do this?

Not if it's properly staked as in the pictures below.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/doubs43/Misc/1911BarrelStitch1.jpg

14er
July 15, 2009, 10:38 PM
You got it Heavy Duty -

I'll send the donut in the mail.

pascalp
July 16, 2009, 06:24 PM
I've a Tanfoglio Witness 1911 which suffer from the same problem, a "walking" barrel link pin. I was really sorry first time it happen.
Time to time I've to reset-it, I check-it on every cleaning and set it back, when needed, before he protrude. A punch of the right size, a hammer, a good support for barrel are all I need.
I'll probably change the barrel link pin.

doubs43,
please help, I don't understand what have been done. It's a punch mark or something like that ?

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