About to purchase the denali folder from KOA. Here's a link http://www.knivesofalaska.com/catalog/prod_display.aspx?from=Folding%20Knives&cat=Denali Anyone had good or bad experience's with KOA knives? Please share :D Btw getting the one in d2 anyone know if it will be easy to re-sharpen? I'm using the lansky sharpening set with the guide rods and have had a hard time getting a razor sharp edge on my kershaw blur. Also do you think it's worth it for the money? Getting it for 120 on ebay any other knives in d2 that you think are better please share.
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June 19, 2008, 06:55 PM
KOA knives are some of the finest off-shelf knives I've seen. Personally, I find D2 steel to be one of the best "hard use" alloys a sportsman can ask for.
I'm not big on Lansky sharpeners. If you want a guided system, get an Edge Pro. It will teach you how to find the correct degree of bevel, rather than just give you a pre-adjusted angle necessitating you remove too much metal.
The stones and/or diamonds used in the Lansky are far too coarse for cutlery. I am not kidding when I comment that Lansky stones are only good for shaping axes.
June 19, 2008, 06:59 PM
I bought the ultra fine 1000grit is that still to coarse?
June 19, 2008, 07:49 PM
Well, you're in the right neighborhood. You have to make the edge "shine."
For example, the stone I use for barbers' razors is a Japanese 12,000 grit.
And the newer alloys make that even more critical. Some clients report that their S30V knives defy sharpening. When I ask about the stone, I get an answer like, "Grandpa's Arkansas."
If you are forming a burr and getting some good results, I would recommend some paste and a strop to clean up tool marks and any left over wire-edges.
When in doubt, buff.
June 19, 2008, 09:30 PM
After a long while sharpening with the 1000 grit I get a close to mirror finish if that's the shine you're talking about but I still can't get it to shave hairs as some have posted they get out of their steel. It slices paper like air but I guess the steel isnt good enough in the Blur to slice hairs. It doesnt say what steel it's made of on the blade or box.
June 19, 2008, 09:32 PM
You still must have some gremlins. Polish the very edge more, or strop it. There must be some minor imperfections on the edge. It should slice anything.
June 19, 2008, 09:39 PM
They may be fine, but they're from TEXAS. They should call it KNIVES OF TEXAS. As it is they're just posers. All my knives are field tested in Alaska. Some have been field tested on dog salmon. Want to buy one? LOL
June 19, 2008, 10:03 PM
field tested on dog salmon
Normally, you have beaten me in anecdotes--but not today.
I have a new client, and new clients worry me. I always try to do good work, but it's the clients' expectation that offers you the chance for further trust and work.
So today I got a PM telling me that the package had been delivered, the knives were safe. There was also a humorous closing. The husband and wife were shaving each others arms.
I was at first tempted to laugh, that's a common way to test a fresh edge.
But these were new clients. I half expected to get a phone call later tonight. "Tourist, we're at the ER now--the doctor wants info on how to close a samurai wound..."
That link from hso made me curious about the Diamondblade knives. I must say, I'm quite interested now. Of course being an Alaska Native (both in birth place and blood) I do feel the need for a KOA knife. Probably the Bush Camp Knife.
June 19, 2008, 11:53 PM
Yeah I know about him HSO, but unless his hind end is up here year round through the winters with the rest of us, he's still a Texican.
June 20, 2008, 09:12 AM
To the OP,
It sounds like you need a coarser stone--diamond stones, preferably. Start coarse, then go progressively finer.
Also apply a micro bevel, which is simply a slightly steeper angle on the very edge. I'm only talking a few strokes on each side. It really doesn't take much.
Dr. Tad Hussein Winslow
June 20, 2008, 09:24 AM
When are the "DiamondBlades" gonna actually be available? I don't see them mentioned on the website...
June 20, 2008, 12:00 PM
Diamond Blade knives were being sold a couple weeks back at the Blade Show.
June 20, 2008, 12:43 PM
June 21, 2008, 06:29 AM
Now if they'll just make that Goddard in a 4.5 inch blade as well as the 3.5 inch I think I'll have my next knife!
June 21, 2008, 12:37 PM
It sounds like you need a coarser stone--diamond stones
Diamond stones are never needed unless you are repairing a chipped axe.
Most likely the problem is not creating a burr. When you are making a pass down the full length of the blade before flipping it to the obverse side, feel the edge by pulling your fingers down away from the bevel.
You should feel a rough burr or the edge is not forming correctly.
As for diamonds, yes, they work very fast at removing lots of metal. Is that a good thing, and what is it doing to the blade?
Under a lighted loupe' you will see tool marks which appear as if a garden rake clawed through a stretch of modeling clay. Those tool marks must be polished away on most alloys--and it's required on alloys like S30V.
A medium grit waterstone is the better answer. Work slowly. If you don't have the time, put the knife away and carry another. Don't grind up a knife because you're rushed.
June 21, 2008, 03:06 PM
I have tried to create a burr but it just doesnt form I guess I need to go back to the medium stone and start all over creating a burr then working my way up to fine then very fine "shrug" but i'm having second thoughts on getting the KOA denali ive been looking at the full size griptillian does it come in d2 also?