Refinishing Backstrap/Trigger Guard


June 26, 2008, 12:31 PM
Howdy All,

I'm new here, but have been reading THR for a long time. There's more collective firearms knowledge here than anyplace I know, so I'll ask a dumb question.

I removed the backstrap/triggerguard from my blue .22 Ruger Single Six because I decided to remove the bluing and polish it, then re-install it. I originally planned to just buy a stainless version of the backstrap/triggerguard from Ruger, but their parts list emphatically warns not to mix blued parts with stainless parts (?).

So now I have the piece in hand with piles of sandpaper ranging from smooth-as-glass to extremely course. I tested some very fine sandpaper on an invisible location inside the backstrap frame, and it doesn't do squat.

Before I attack this with course sandpaper or a wire wheel, has anyone else here done this? How did you do it? Should I be even attempting this?

If it's just a question of difficulty, patience, or finesse -- I'm an artist, so I've got that part covered.

Thanks for the advice (if you have any).

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June 26, 2008, 01:31 PM
The grip frame is hard anodized, not blued.

You will have to remove it with more aggressive grades of paper, then keep working down until you get all the scratches out from each grade.
And so on, and so on.

Follow that with a buffing wheel & red rouge.

Or Simichrome polish & a lot of hand rubbing.


June 26, 2008, 01:36 PM
Hard anodized aluminum I might add. You sure you want that? If mixing blued steel and stainless steel is so very bad, what does that say about mixing blued steel and aluminum? And so why does Ruger have stainless parts on blued revolvers?

June 26, 2008, 03:41 PM
I just went back and reread Ruger's parts manual PDF. It says "Note: The factory will not fit stainless steel components to blued steel revolvers and visa versa."

So that's only if you send them your gun for parts replacement.

I can just order a stainless steel grip frame ($121) for my Single Six. For all they know, I could be putting it on a squirt gun.

So now that I think about it, I'll keep the grip frame/trigger guard as is (with my ivory grips) and get a stainless one for my original wood grips.

Then I can switch back and forth "depending on my mood".

Thanks for the advice!

June 26, 2008, 03:57 PM
Are you sure they will just send you a part. I thought Ruger was one of the companies who wanted the gun sent back for parts replacement. You might consider just sending it out to be stripped and re-anodized.

June 26, 2008, 04:46 PM
You can buy the stainless grip frame but as of late they are getting harder to find.

I two-toned this pair of Blackhawks and just refinished the ejector housing and grip frame, then purchased the rest of the stainless parts (screws & pins) separately. Grips are home made from Bocote.

I bead blasted my parts then started with 220 grit and worked up from there. Final finish was with a buffing wheel and hand polishing.

A BIG word of caution, since these are coated there are a lot of voids in the metal that will be exposed by removing the finish, most are the size of pin pricks. Those suckers can go deep into the metal so don't try polishing them out unless you can see they are very shallow. Before you know it you will alter the lines of the grip.

ETA: Since these pictures were taken I have added a set of stainless Belt Mountain base pins as well..

June 27, 2008, 12:51 PM

Wow! That's exactly what I want. If I can't get a stainless grip frame from Ruger, then I'll try bead blasting. I work in the motorcycle aftermarket, so I know quite a few guys that can do it for me. And I have a buffing wheel already.

Thanks for posting the photos. They're a real inspiration!

June 27, 2008, 01:18 PM
Brownell's will be more then happy to sell you a S/S grip.,%20ROUND%20GUARD,%20SS&s=28319#28319


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