New grips "rock" front and back even when


June 30, 2008, 06:28 PM
Just recently purchased some checkered rosewood S&W grips for my 638.

Took off my Uncle Mikes and placed on the new ones and tightened them up.

When cocking with the shrouded hammer or squeezing as to fire the grips will rock.

It seems like there is too much of a gap behind the trigger and trigger guard.

I'm guessing I need to fill that in with some rubber or something. Anyone have this problem?

The grips are beautiful but this problem kind of puts a damper on my excitement. I'm sure with some retro-fitting I can get it to work just looking for ideas from some of you. I'm sure I'm not the first to have this issue!

Picture for reference...

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June 30, 2008, 07:37 PM
you may never get them to work right you can send them to me and maybe i can live with them on my 642 No really there can always be a little diffence in grips but s&w from what i read suppose to be some of the best for this. if you can tell where one part to the grip is not level maybe lay then on a table and see how they lay if not flat maybe a little sanding would be called for. they sure are pretty grips,

be safe

June 30, 2008, 07:40 PM
This was a common problem for me back before I started standardizing on Hogues.

Do they fit best when "rotated" clockwise or counterclockwise from the perspective of the photo you posted?

I used to add shims along the front edge of the gripframe to tighten things up. The shim goes either above or below the screw depending on how the grip best fits.

Nice looking grips!

June 30, 2008, 07:49 PM
Counter clockwise so if I put some rubber shims right behind the trigger guard may work. I'm going to play with it when I get home tonight.

I really do love the look though!

June 30, 2008, 07:54 PM
Ditto on the shimming, I usually use post card type material, rock the grips back and forth to find best fit, then shim away trial and error will get it done...

June 30, 2008, 07:59 PM
Yeah I'll get this going tonight :) I'll keep you guys in-the-know!

June 30, 2008, 08:12 PM
Fusion, the area directly behind the trigger guard is usually designed to free-float away from the frame on grips like yours. The shim should go along the grip frame in the inch or so above the grip screw. I'd hate to see you crack those pretty grips shimming in the wrong place.

Good luck!

June 30, 2008, 08:21 PM
Ok so you are saying the are in question should have a "gap" like it has now and should rock unless you put the shim in above the grip screw?

What kind of shim are we talking about. Please clarify for me! Thanks for the help thus far.

June 30, 2008, 08:26 PM
I used to use layers of plastic electrical tape for shims; the comment about the grip screw is for relative position.

Do this: remove one of the grip panels. Can you rotate the remaining panel? If yes, look at the area where the grip panel fits up against the grip frame. You should see the gap change as you rotate the grip panel. It should then be obvious where the shim should be placed. If you use tape, trim it to size and stick it right to the grip frame.

June 30, 2008, 08:30 PM
Yes I can definitely remove one of the grips and rotate the other grip. So I should wrap the tape around the actua frame? Or more like make actual pieces and place it so it doesn't move.

I think I got what you are saying. I'll be home in a few hours to give it a try.

June 30, 2008, 08:55 PM
No, cut the tape into thin strips and stick it to the forward surface of the grip frame in the area needed. You don't want to make the grip frame any wider.

June 30, 2008, 10:15 PM
NIce I think I got it working - used like 2-3 shims made from the electrical tape. Seems to be pretty solid for now. I'll see how it goes after I play with it a bit. (obviously unloaded) :o

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