[ohman11]

I just got one of these from a local shop for a whopping $1.00. It is the orange one in very good shape. I dropped several loads of bullseye with it and it was not close each time, it was exact each time. Now I see some are for black powder and some are not. How do I tell and what does a powder measure care if its dropping smokeless or black powder?

[Harve Curry]

I have two of them and keep one set up for Unique and one for 2400. I didn't know there was a black powder version. If there is it would have to have non-sparking metals such as all brass rotator, casting metal, etc.

[ohman11]

That was the only thing I could think of was non sparking parts. I have a nice rcbs one already but for a buck I had to give it a try.

[rcmodel]

You can double your money!
I'll give you $2.00 for it, and pay the shipping! :D

The BP version has non-sparking parts and a brass powder reservoir. Also a long drop tube to better fill cases completely full of BP.

rcmodel

[Harve Curry]

I paid $20 for one and then $5 for the second and think I got two good deals!

[NCsmitty]

I have an older Lyman 55 that is the mainstay of my reloading sequence and when set correctly it throws .1 gr or less consistently with every type of powder that I use, and I do use the knocker.

NCsmitty

[ohman11]

When is the proper time to use the knocker?

[DEDON45]

Those are good measures... I don't have one, my buddy does, but it gets the job done. The Blackpowder ones use brass, and has a metal hopper as well. Use the knocker after the drop.

[rcmodel]

I use the knocker every time I move the handle.

Up = Flip the knocker.
Down = Flip the Knocker.

Once you get in the rhythm you don't even know you are doing it, until you don't do it one time.

That wakes you right up!

rcmodel