[usp_fan]

I posted this on the ruger forum also, and I am sure I'll get some great reponses here too.

Recently my friend gave me a tour of his gun safe. Along with an original american eagle luger, he has several very nice OM Blackhawks and an early single six. Trying the actions on these was an enlightening experience.

So now I need your wisdom. How do I take my accusport bisley and my anniversary single six and get them to feel as good. What I noticed was the ease of cocking, a gliding feeling, everything smooth, no resistance. Also it seemed the spring tension was lighter. The experience could best be described as "the revolver wanted to be cocked" if you know what I mean.

How do I get my "new" models to feel this way? Can I get even close?

Thanks,

--usp_fan

[RON in PA]

Two things: Change the springs to Wolfe springs(especially trigger springs) and dry fire and shoot the gun as much as possible. This really smooths up Rugers.

Also did the guy have a smith work on the guns?

[Augustwest]

Springs and dry-firing will help. But I doubt that any of the New Model Rugers will be as smooth as those of yore - more parts tied to the trigger with the transfer bar and whatnot.

That said, I picked up a New Model Blackhawk today, and the trigger could be much worse.

[usp_fan]

Ron,

Nope, all original parts and no smithing. This guy has so many pistols and rifles I doubt any single firearm gets shot too much at his house.

I'll look at the spring kits--I've also already polished the mainspring strut (helped a lot), and I've recieved the suggestion to file (polish) down the "Ruger Hump" that the sear rides over on it's way to the hammer notch.

We'll see, I guess.

thanks and keep the replies comming.

usp_fan

[J Miller]

New Model Ruger SA's can be slicked up very nicely. However they will never feel like an Old Model.

Carefull polishing of the mating parts will help a lot. You got a very good start by polishing the main spring strut.
Polish it gently where it pivots in the back of the hammer too. Lightly polish every thing that rubs against something. Lightly, no need to go nuts and make a mirror surface on every thing.

I never put lighter hammer springs in my Rugers. I want a stong, fast hammer fall. This reduces lock time and prevents light hits on the primers.
The trigger spring legs can be gently bent to lighten the trigger pull, but it will never be as good as you want it, unless a gunsmith works over the sear angle.

Just be patient and take your time.

Oh, and if you just gotta have the feel of an OM, you gotta buy and OM.

[Brad Johnson]

I agree with the spring and polishing suggestions. Be careful on the springs that you don't go too light.

I have a GP100 and SP101 that have both been Wolffe'd. With no other changes, the triggers no feel as if I'd had someone do a trigger job. When I did the first one (GP100) I went too light on the mainspring (9#) and was getting some light strikes and minor hammer rebounding. A switch to the 10# spring made everything hunky-dory.

As was mentioned above you should do a minor polish on all mating surfaces. Nothing extreme, just enough to smooth out the machining marks.

If you want the ultimate in trigger feel, drop a line to Hamilton Bowen. He is acknowledged to be one of the finest Rugersmiths in the world.

You can see some of his prices here. (http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/ruger15.html)

Brad

[Jim March]

Much more info in this thread:

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80872

Try a "poor boy $0 trigger job" :D.

If that doesn't work, and basic polishing/springs isn't helping enough, the Power Custom complete drop-in hammer/trigger set is THE hot ticket.

[caz223]

Even better than the poor boy trigger job, is the action job by Gary Reeder.
I recommend his work highly.
http://www.reedercustomguns.com/
Also, a free spin pawl, and if your gun is a .45, a quick check of the chamber throats for undersize is recommended.